MechEngineerMike

This is excellent very technical work. Even though its all written out right in front of me how you built it I'm still not sure I could copy it ;). Great job!

Thanks Igor, I'm glad you enjoyed!

I love the project and your documentation! Under appreciated I think, but keep up the good work. Out of curiosity do you work for Autodesk?

Nice job! I've found oogoo (diy sugru) works really well, and also silicone molding putty for casting is a great out of the box solution. My robots use 3d printed tires which is great for automated making but not as good as the above options for traction.

Great work thanks for sharing!

Great looking robot!

Still looks quite difficult but very very cool project none the less! I've found mini-sumo to be the happy medium of small but manageable.

Yes, you could and I see the temptation as cantilever loadcells are usually cheaper. Just beware that they also have a high enough internal deflection that you'd want to account for it if precision displacement was a concern. Also, it will be more difficult to keep everything centered what with the offset mounting points of a cantilever cell.

Its this motor, http://amzn.to/2nGGqOdNEMA 23 Stepper Motor - 125 oz.in (200 steps/rev)Step Angle (degrees) : 1.8Rated Voltage: 3VRated Current: 2A/PhaseHolding Torque: 90N.cm

Hey cool instructable! I don't mean to undermine it in any way by sharing this but there is a website out there that adds Voronoi holes to stl files automatically. Check it out: http://www.voronator.com/

Looks good so far! Any connectors that are pre-installed on the thermocouples are acceptable. The reason I said something is because you have to use special connectors if you use any, if the connector material is dissimilar to the probe material then you will affect the reading. The thing I never updated in the EE diagram is that I had later discovered that this model of controller uses pins 3 & 4 for a ~5VDC output intended to go directly to the input side of your external SSR. The way I originally wired it would work for a while but then fail

Nice!! Thanks for sharing your experience!

HI Dan, glad you like it! At the end of step 3 there is an XL document called 'Electric Motorcycle Calculations.xls' Its a big document but inside on the tab called 'real budget' there is a link to where i purchased everything. Also there is a tab called websites that lists some other potential good sources. Good luck!

Thanks so much, glad you like it!

Couldn't understand a word but the pictures look great! ;)

Mine came from mcmaster carr here in the US. I used a "finished-Bore Sprocket with Hardened Teeth for #50 Chain, 5/8" Pitch, 15 Teeth, 1" Bore". You can use my Excel calculator in this instructable to help optimize the tooth count for your specific setup. My driven sprocket had 50 teeth.

The wheel rims are special parts designed for solar car racing. We reused ours from the old solar car because we could not find new ones. We did get new tires from Dunlop though.

Absolutely you could.

It makes sence to do this in retrospect. This project is a rebuild, a version 2 that followed a version 1 where I threw out that fan and forgot about it!

I think I like the looks of this one more than mine. Mine has electronics right underneath the acetone container, so if the seal is bad then acetone drips onto the board. On this new one if you were to cut the metal right down the middle you could put the electronics farther away and still use the 4 hole pattern to press against the vibrator seal

I guess I was high from all the fumes. I might have had intentions of re-adding in the float switch at some point because running dry on acetone has the potential to hurt the machine (by shaking without a load and also by overheating).

Woah thanks for posting this, would you mind sharing a picture of the internals too?

The sticking I've seen is superficial, you can always get the part out with a little knock. easier than popping a printed part off a build plate.

"Here I am going to give you links to each part and component used in this project." ... proceeded not to do that. -Please provide links

We used an ancient motor and never had the budget for a new one so we never spent the time thinking about it. (Later on the team got a new one donated to it.) All I know is this caliber of motor is extremely energy efficient, heavy, very specialized, and also costs on the order of tens of thousands of dollars.

I remember that the 28v & ~13v were both AC. I realize now that I wasn't thinking and I just connected it to a single diode and noted that the result was unusable for operating the timer. I should have ran it through a full wave rectifier and that would likely have been able to run the whole system.

Your next video needs to be blasting these things into someone's open mouth. Ha ha, neat idea.

Thanks for the feedback!

Hi Uber, The simplest answer here might just be if you are experimenting with this while holding the bike in the air, rather than under load, the motor will disengage when the tire reaches the same rpm as the motors max speed. (When riding the bike this only happens when you go down a hill that makes you go faster than you can boost.) You can negate this by holding in the rear wheel brake a bit when testing. If that is not the issue then, which configuration did you do? If the motor isnt staying in contact during a ride its either not getting enough tire engagement or the motor position & swing arm angle arent happy. The middrive config is easier to get right simply because there are less incorrect ways to mount it. The seat post config is tougher because it gives you more freedo...

Hi Uber, The simplest answer here might just be if you are experimenting with this while holding the bike in the air, rather than under load, the motor will disengage when the tire reaches the same rpm as the motors max speed. (When riding the bike this only happens when you go down a hill that makes you go faster than you can boost.) You can negate this by holding in the rear wheel brake a bit when testing. If that is not the issue then, which configuration did you do? If the motor isnt staying in contact during a ride its either not getting enough tire engagement or the motor position & swing arm angle arent happy. The middrive config is easier to get right simply because there are less incorrect ways to mount it. The seat post config is tougher because it gives you more freedom to choose the engagement angle, and because this setup is less stiff.

The current misting chamber (the tupperware bin with the flip top) is 17 cups, which is 1 cup more than 1/2 gallon. So I'm wondering if you're using a 1 gal. Anyway I think it would work just fine as is for a change on that scale, just expect a little longer to get a fully misted chamber. A larger ID fog supply tube wouldn't hurt though. In any case remember to keep the tube attachments high on the container because the mist will sink to the bottom, and try to use as little length of supply tube as you can. And of cource make sure that your tupperware bucket is a solvent resistant material too!