We had a wonderful, amazing cycling holiday trip along the Kattegatleden and I’m so grateful to you guys for advice and suggestions. Also, if you’ve never tried a cycling holiday my experience is A+++.
Below a short trip report (TLDR: not a drop of rain, many beaches, much swimming, much ice cream, some Germans. Cycling hats worth their weight in gold. Also padded shorts. Got fitter quickly. Awesome holiday was awesome.)
Day 1: Karlstad to Höganäs.
It was an experience loading all our gear onto the train (see previous entry). Arriving in Helsingborg we also had to fling everything off before the train departed. But once that was completed, it was a beautiful start to the trip along the Helsingborg boardwalk. After five minutes we stopped for ice cream (a pattern repeated many many times on this trip).

Then up an enormous hill that seemed never to end. At the top though we were rewarded with an artisan bakery where we purchased bread and excellent local crackers, snacks, and honey.

After this we pedalled on (and on and on it seemed) to a campground outside Höganäs. Actually we missed the campground, went through an open air music festival, and had to turn around and come back. This was our shortest day, maybe 25k, and I was bone tired by the end of it. After pitching the tent and making dinner I just went in, laid down, and did not emerge. I think Johnny put his own pajamas on. I certainly didn’t do it!

I awoke very early the next morning and went out of the campground to see the beach.

Day 2: Höganäs to Ängelholm
More beautiful beach cycling, and we stopped to swim. And eat ice cream.

Then through hilly farmland. Hot. Achy — especially my feet and shoulders began to really hurt. Dr Moreau pulling the heavier load was extremely and annoyingly cheerful (he is very fit). Just gritting my teeth for another section of tough cycling when he looked at the map and said “There’s a barbecue place just around the corner.” I wanted to keep going, having psyched myself up, but we’ve been married 13 years now, and I reminded myself that he’s usually right. What a barbecue place! A group of friends had made their own smokehouse, restaurant, and chili pepper greenhouse!! They even had that fluorescent Mexican soda that I’ve only seen in Spanish markets in New Mexico. We bought extra pit beans to eat…mmmm….

Then through hilly suburban territory following and overtaking and then following again a German family, grandpa, mother, and two kids, complete with huge trailer and stuffed panniers. At night we settled into to a nice campsite at Ängelholm and lo and behold they were also there! We cycled about 40km and I was so tired. Someone left the inner tent zipper open and as a result there were ants in the tent when I went in with Johnny at about 8pm. He tried to make me care but I didn’t and fell asleep. His dad had to remove the ants as I slumbered on…
Day 3: Ängelholm.
I was so achy that I knew I needed a rest day. Ängelholm is a perfectly lovely town with an excellent and child-friendly park with a “trollskog” or “magic forest” full of sculptures and little magical things.

And also an excellent ice cream place where Johnny had a HUGE banana split type of thing. There was also bathing and shell collecting in the ocean, where we observed that the German family were still there, having obviously decided to take the day off as well.
Day 4: Ängelholm to Båstad
On the official map, this stage is 57km. You go around a peninsula, but WE thought hey we can go ACROSS the peninsula and then it’s more like 40km. We started off, stopped for a swim and ice cream (theme of the vacation), and then headed across.

You know about shortcuts, right? Well, this shortcut turned out to take us over the Hallandsåsen, a huge ridge down the middle of the peninsula. And it was seriously, seriously hot. We pushed the laden bikes upward for at least two km, towards the end meeting the first of what would become a stream of multinational cyclists with flags etc. who told us we were almost to the top. I had to break out the wifi speaker and put on gym music. Then of course we got to go down. We spied a shop which turned out to be a chic organic butcher with the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted. While we sat on their patio trying to recover, the German family turned up! They were lost (using paper maps) while we (with electronic maps as well) were merely stupid. Anyway we all ate ice cream together, offering water to the passing international cyclists (part of a charity event), and then headed down the hill. We met up again at a lovely beach restaurant in Båstad, which also had a fantastic adventure pool out back. They pressed on while we swam (and ate ice cream), and then headed out to the campground.

Despite going 40km and up a monster hill, I was feeling much stronger. I adjusted my saddle height and my positioning and managed to stop my feet hurting. My shoulder continued to give me trouble, so I read up about it at night — a common cause of this is that you tilt your head up too much. I resolved to pay attention to this.
Day 5: Båstad to Halmstad.
This was a beautiful day of beach cycling, marred only by the intermittent shooting pain in my right shoulders (despite my care). Side stretching and resting gave me some relief. It was still very hot! Thank goodness we were cycling along Sweden’s longest beach at Mellbystrand.
I was no longer super tired from the cycling, and we went on happily, passing beach communities with marinas, as well as cargo bikes carrying 6 nursery children each on their way to an outing and a tandem bike with one recumbent and one regular passenger! Definitely a cool and funky bicycle culture going on.

The last stretch into Halmstad was hot and along a motorway, and the campgrounds were very far out from the city, and I decided that I would try to use my frequent train points and book us a hotel in the city centre. This worked, surprisingly! And, as we pulled into the city centre a shout went up — the German family, who were finishing their trip in Halmstad, had spotted us and we exchanged many greetings and wishes for good luck. It was really nice to sleep in a hotel bed too. And we had very excellent fresh sushi at Takenaka, a restaurant run by a Swedish woman and her Japanese husband. Johnny ate specially made kappa maki, cucumber-only rolls, and was very happy. We were happy too!
Day Six: Halmstad to Steninge
We set out from Halmstad and stopped just a little way out at a small amusement park so that Johnny could have some fun. Turns out he hates bumper cars, roller coasters, and carousels. He did like looking at the large, unmoving sculptures of dinosaurs LOL.

The official next stage of the route is from Halmstad to Falkenburg, 57km. I thought that might be a bit much for me, and had seen a wonderful looking hostel at Steninge, about 30km from Halmstad. When I tried to pre-book they were full, but I thought I would call to see if they perhaps had tenting pitches available. No such luck but they did have a cancellation, and we were able to sleep in a room. What a wonderful hostel! Beautifully decorated by the hostel-keeper’s artist mother in a local style, with organic and freshly made food. Absolutely outstanding.
Day Seven: Steninge to just-beyond-Falkenburg (Olofsbo)
About 35km this day, and not the nicest biking of the the trip, much more along the road and one gruelling stretch along a forest road of loose gravel (gravel + tiny Brompton tires + weighted cargo = OMG I am tired). And so, so hot. I maybe didn’t even take any pictures. I did not have a good impression of Falkenburg, I must say. My shoulder was paining me a lot. The campground we were in was one of the worst: just a dry, flat field with roads laid out and row upon row upon row upon row of RVs. Like a suburb. With the sun beating down and no shade. The best part about this campground though was that people with no motor vehicles (cyclists and ramblers) got to stay in the old walled garden, peppered with fruit trees, green and cool and quiet – we were the only ones there until late at night when a couple of people walked in.

There was a redcurrant bush with ripe berries going to waste. Dr Moreau and Johnny gathered them, and I made a redcurrant camp jam, which I used for overnight oats. Yum!

Day Eight: Just-outside-Falkenburg to Varberg. About 30k. Plus more in Gothenburg.
We had planned to go on to Gothenburg but despite all my efforts my shoulder was just not recovering. We decided to take the train from Varberg to Gothenburg, which meant getting to Varberg before the train left (and, incidentally, allowing us to watch the England-Sweden world cup match with Dr Moreau’s sister!). This last day was hot and not very interesting cycling, mostly along a motorway as the main cycle path was somehow not quite there yet, but Varberg itself was very pretty, and we arrived in plenty of time for lunch and train. Horribly stressful to load everything in the couple of minutes that the train stopped, but we managed. Then cycling about 7k through Gothenburg was actually rather nice, by this time I was fit enough not to find the hills such a challenge. We stayed a few days in Gothenburg, visiting family and friends and the Universeum, then took the train home again. We think we may tackle the rest of it later, cycling south from Gothenburg.