You could just say that someone else has come along and booked their date, no?
Honestly, that can comeback to bite you if it's a protected class. You would actually have to prove that you had other clients (at least in the US). This leaves issues with the "we're not a good fit" excuse unless you have some other excuse like, "stylistically, I don't think I can provide what you are looking for."
"Stylistically, I don't think I can provide what you are looking for" is my go to because that's usually the reason I don't want to shoot a wedding. If you show up with two 3" binders, I don't want to work with you because you're going to be expecting that every shot looks like something from Instagram or Pinterest and that's just not something I can produce on a wedding day. So, "stylistically, we aren't a good fit" is absolutely true.
You don't have to lie but you also don't want to be liable for some bullshit lawsuit when that wasn't your intention at all.
I’ve been doing weddings a year now and I’ve learned my lesson. I had a client that gave me a Pinterest board with 200 shots or so. They’re mad I didn’t get every shot like they had. Also they didn’t give me a specific shot list other than that. I’ve learned I’m going to be careful what clients I shoot. I am a more documentary style. I don’t do/want to do, posing a complete list of shots like they wanted.
If you've only been at it for a year, it gets WAY worse. I've sat with people who brought those inspiration books and some of them didn't even take place in remotely the same setting. Snow photos for a summer beach wedding? Pastoral scenes when they're getting married in downtown Chicago. WTF people, I can't work with you. You're already proving to be delusional.
Unanswered (again) question from a previous megathread
Author /u/TacoMatador - (Permalink)
Looking for recommendations on gimbals for a Canon t6 Rebel. I would want one that could be mounted to something like a fishing kayak.
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Thanks!
Get a Manfroto super clamp (or equivalent) and a cheap ball head (check ebay for a cheap used head). Then just clamp it to the boat.
Unanswered question from the previous megathread
Author /u/schacks - (Permalink)
I hope I'm posting in the right thread and on the right day :-)
Over my main work table is 2 lamps fitted with 75watt Halopar 30 bulbs. They deliver light with high CRI color reproduction (more than 99) and is critical for viewing prints and photos. Now that the EU has banned halogen light I’m looking for LED’s that can replace the current bulbs. They need to fit E27 sockets, run on 230V and have roughly 30 degree angle. And most important, a CRI/RA >90.
Any suggestions?
They exist. You could use a light panel or find some bulbs.
I have experience with those light panels and they do ok for video. They can be battery operated or plugged in. I've used them more during power outages which they are phenomenal for (I have more power outages than video work.)
If you want to work corded, you need a cable that looks like this. But, before you go ahead and plug your camera in that vintage equipment, you have to make sure it won't bust your camera with too much voltage—I'm not sure if it's safe or not with that particular pack—there would be adapters to protect your camera if that was the case.
Frankly, I'd just skip the cords altogether and go with radio triggers. All you'd need is the proper cable to go from the radio trigger to the "household" socket in the pack—for example for PocketWizards it looks like this.
...I'm not sure that's what you were asking though.
The old Wein SafeSyncs are what you'd be looking for. Though, I'm relatively certain new bodies have those built in since 2007 or so (I can't remember). The problem was WAY overblown, more myth than fact in a practical sense (still, be safe, use a radio or light trigger).
What exactly is "quality" of a jpeg? It isn't the number of pixels. When you export a raw file from Lightroom you get a slider ranging from low to high quality. But the pixel count (i.e. 6000x4000) remains the same. You can obviously see the difference between high and low, especially when zoomed in, but what information/data is lost in the low quality jpeg?
Compression. Your dimensions will stay the same but the compression will be different. Saving at 100% will have no compression.
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rubber band trick
When rubber bands wont work, use a USB cord. They have the same grip strength but more tensile so you can make a make shift strap wrench. It will take off pretty much anything.
You should post this to the questions thread (I'm removing it because it's buying advice. If it isn't answered today, it will be tomorrow).
Anyway, without knowing a budget, nobody can really help you. A Nikon d300 can be picked up with a 50mm/1.8 for cheap and will get you through a ton of situations. What are you looking to shoot?
Bring a flash and set it to full power. Keep your finger on the test button and if anyone bothers you, flash them in the eyes. That should buy you some time to get away.
Where can I get a college photography certificate online?
A better question is why do you need one?
No job that I have ever known of requires a certificate from an online college. A BFA, sure, but that's for teaching and stuff.
Don't waste your money buying an online degree in photography. Take classes from local photographers (who are good), travel, invest in gear.
How do you deal with bad lighting/ extremely yellow light?
I second the white balance thing but cheap CFL bulbs also lack the color spectrum to properly render color. So, if it's super yellow and looks awful after color correcting, that may be the issue.
That really depends on the power that you're shooting them at. Are you shooting full power or is 1/32 acceptable?
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