More wardrobe staples…

February 16, 2017 ~ 1107nikki ~ 5 Comments

I’ve spent some time over the past few months to make some staples for my wardrobe, in the form of tops, skirts and shrugs.

Yes, these are all something I’ve made before, but I’m trying to make a record of makes and any changes I make, plus I’m also interested to see which patterns become TNT patterns for me.

Tahi Shrug

I made one of these when I was lucky enough to test the pattern. Even though that one is in a black fluffy knit, it gets a lot of wear and I really wanted some more.

The red version is a stretch lace which I think was a remnant from The Fabric Warehouse. There’s still oodles left, which I’m planning on using for something else. The sleeves were from the selvedge and I trimmed around the edge to give the scalloped edge.

Although this version looks dressy, I love to wear it as a vest cover up in the summer. This pattern uses so little fabric, it’s possible to get it out of a very little.

Cue my second Tahi shrug… I picked up this remnant from Kat the other weekend. Immediately it had to be a shrug. I was determined it had to work. It meant I needed to seam the centre back, but I still have a shrug!

This one is like my first and has 3/4 sleeves. I love this length of sleeve, I don’t need to push it up to get it out of the way, plus it gives some more warmth than a short sleeve. The fabric also means this one is really warm and I nearly lost it to Kat when we were taking these photos.

The deets
Fabrics: Red stretch lace (Fabric Warehouse), blue poly knit (from Kat)
Notions: Thread and tape for the shoulder seams
Pattern: Muse Patterns Tahi Shrug, size 40, one with the short sleeve, the other gathered top 3/4 sleeve
Changes made: None
Another one/recommendations: These are shrugs 2 and 3, do I need to say how good this pattern is?

Layered skirt

I made this skirt ages ago, so excuse me if I get some of my details wrong. The pattern is my self-drafted pencil skirt – if you ask me one of the easiest patterns to draft on your own.

The pattern I first drafted some years ago when I was in the UK. This version here is made with a navy cotton eyelet. The lining is some polyester which Sandra gave me as a leftover. I think she used it for a coat lining. I quite like this multi-coloured floral lining under the plain fabric.

The selvedges were plain fabric with no eyelets. I used this to make up the waistband. The zip is a centred zip and I used a purple button from my button box.

The deets
Fabrics: Navy blue cotton eyelet (not sure where from), floral polyester lining (from Sandra)
Notions: Thread, interfacing for the waistband and a centred zip
Pattern: Self-drafted pencil skirt
Changes made: It’s my pattern, I do as I like, but no, this is the pattern with no changes.
Another one/recommendations: Drafting a pencil skirt is the easiest thing ever, imo. There will always be more of these in my wardrobe. If you want to try making your own, I would go for it.

And if you were wondering these photos were taken in Newlands here in Wellington at a children’s pay area near Brandon Rock with Kat and Sandra. Yes it was sunny and very windy, but we had fun playing on the swings and playground.

Muse Rua

February 7, 2017 ~ 1107nikki ~ Leave a comment

Another fab new pattern from Muse Patterns which I was lucky enough to test.

On the website the Rua tee and dress are described as “perfect all year round. Featuring a semi-loose fitting bodice, a scoop neckline, two sleeve designs (a short puffed sleeve with cuff band, or a classic sleeve with a lightly gathered sleeve head), three sleeve lengths, and the choice of cropped tee, banded tee, hip-length tee, or dress.”

I was in need of another white t-shirt (a girl can never have enough) and made up the hip-length with short sleeves. And it’s a great addition to my wardrobe. I need to make more!

I made a size 38 following my full bust measurement. I have just an inch between high and full bust, so I went for the full bust size. Personally for me, this may be an inch or so too long, but that’s mainly because I rarely wear jeans or trousers, but I prefer a longer tee over my skirts rather than a cropped tee.

The instructions as always were clear as a button. I’m a pictures person, not words and so follow the images for most instructions. The pattern layout all good. My fabric was wide enough to fold in both selvedges and cut the front and back that way. Minimal fabric use.

The facing for the hip-length version is quite different and I wondered how this was going to work. It is a really nice feature and makes the hem lay flat and sit on the hips really nicely. It also saves the use of a double needle for the hem.

So what’s the difference between this and something like the Renfrew? For a start, check out those options. For US$12, you have three different tee lengths and a dress, not to mention four different sleeve lengths. What a bargain. I personally think the fit is great. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. This longer line tee has more shape than a Renfrew and I really love the facing for the hem which gives a smooth finish. Kat has gone into a lot of work to get this ready and it definitely shows with the finished product.

The deets
Fabric: White cotton jersey knit. I can’t remember where I got it from, but it’s good quality and has a great recovery
Notions: Thread and tape for the shoulder seams
Pattern: Muse Patterns Rua Tee and Dress, size 38
Changes made: None
Another one/recommendations: I would definitely recommend this. It’s quick and easy to sew up, the fit is really good and there are so many options in the pattern it’ll keep you going for ages, always making something different. I can definitely see another one in my future, even another white one, simply because I like white tees. Watch this space!

Excuse the photos in this, it was one of our few sunny days this summer and I happened to be wearing a white tee – sun and white fabrics don’t really match with photos! Oh and it was windy too – I do live in Wellington after all 🙂

All opinions above are honest and my own. I was given a copy of this pattern for testing purposes only.

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A sweat of shirts (?) or aye aye Nelson…

January 31, 2017 ~ 1107nikki ~ 2 Comments

I couldn’t find the collective noun for shirts, so asked Mr N (the in-house chef), he came up with “a sweat”, mm, not convinced! 🙂 The other photos, they look like Admiral Nelson!

The in-house chef is not a fan of posing for photos, and consequently the resident dress form (she is yet to be named) offered to pose for me. Now please note, the shirts are made for a male and the dress form is female, although they don’t look too bad on her!

I made the first shirt for the in-house chef four years ago. I used Burda 7767 having seen the many versions on Homemade by Carolyn‘s blog. I’ve made four more in the last four years – yeah, one a year, I’m so generous. Unfortunately a lot of the fabrics are narrow stripes and so we have some fine examples of moire – sorry, not sure how to get rid of that.

I’ve had to make some changes since my first iteration of this pattern. The in-house chef has one of those stomachs which has “taken years of honing and looking after” – you know the type? And so I cut a size 42 in the chest and grade out to halfway between a 44 and 46 for the waist/hip area. He also has short arms and small wrists (like me) and so I shorten the arms by 2cm and grade them in at the wrist to a size 40. Other than that, they are as the pattern. All seams are flat felled and everything is top stitched where you would expect it, ie collars and cuffs.

Following on from my first version, I always finish the cuffs with a larger metallic button to look like a cufflink.

The variations
Fabric 1: Quite stiff pale grey and white striped cotton with dark grey buttons. Cufflinks are metallic owls. The fabric I think came from The Fabric Store, the buttons no doubt would have come from Made Marion.
Fabric 2: Blue and white stripe. I think it’s a poly cotton. It’s quite thick, but requires little ironing. I’m unsure where it’s from now. Small blue buttons for the front and the cufflinks have thistles on them.
Fabric 3 (the rainbow shirt): Plain blue cotton from The Fabric Store. I bought it for something else, then saw a shirt like this somewhere and just had to copy it. The fabric is plain and so I used multicoloured shell buttons from Made Marion for the front. The cufflinks are circular metal buttons. I also used this multicoloured cotton top-stitching thread for all top stitching and seams.

Fabric 4 (the Paul Hollywood shirt): Narrow grey and white stripe (a bugger to sew) I think from the Fabric Warehouse. I didn’t have enough and so lined the collar, cuffs and button band with a shot purple cotton (that’s been in my stash for ages). The front buttons are small purple coloured wooden buttons. The in-house chef then chose the solid looking square buttons (they aren’t metal and are very lightweight.)

Pattern: Burda 7767 (which I think is now out of print)

Notions: In addition to the buttons. I’ve been trying different types of interfacing for the collars and cuffs. I found some great stiffer interfacing for the collars, but could only find it in white.
Changes made: I cut a size 42 in the chest and grade out to halfway between a 44 and 46 for the waist/hip area. Mr N also has short arms and small wrists (like me) and so I shorten the arms by 2cm and grade them in at the wrist to a size 40.

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In-flight cardigan

January 20, 2017 ~ 1107nikki ~ 2 Comments

I’ve made a thing – well I’ve made lots of things, but getting photos hasn’t happened around here. I’ve been on holiday and every time the weekend turns up, it seems to rain! Not particularly conducive to taking photos. Yes, it’s the summer, but there was snow on the hill range just up the road last night…

I made this cardigan specifically for my holiday. I’d seen various versions online and it fitted the bill perfectly – hidden pockets to stick tissues and/or boarding passes in, long line so it covers up my bum, etc. If you haven’t guessed by now, this is the Seamly Wrapped Cardigan. Seamly produce “socially responsible clothing” and are based in Denver, CO. However, they have made the patterns for some of their creations available to the sewing community via Indiesew, who also happen to be in CO, but up the road in Boulder (a fine town and home to an old friend of mine).

The pattern has 36 pages – yes! The pattern pieces for the front to create that cascade are big. There’s no just getting this from a small amount of fabric, you need to make sure it’s wide enough, or you have enough. Based on my measurements, I made a size XL, for the long sleeve version with 60″ wide fabric, you need 3.5 yds, ie 3.2m of 150cm wide fabric – that’s as much as a dress!!

It’s actually pretty easy to put together, but be careful, the front pieces end up on the diagonal down the side seam, so you can easily stretch it. The pockets are made by the facing to the neck band. It’s quite clever really, they end up being completely concealed.

My fabric is quite loosely woven and frayed like anything. I got it from Mel, who decided she didn’t like it anymore! Initially I thought to make a Style Arc Nina cardi, then decided this would fit the bill better.

The instructions are clear and easy to follow with lots of diagrams to keep Nikki happy! The second step is a bit fiddly, the two front pieces are stitched together at the neck and the back is then attached to that in a very odd shaped seam. It worked, but it’s fiddly!

The deets
Fabric: Teal green and white striped knit from thecuriouskiwi – not sure of the composition
Notions: Thread and tape for the shoulder seams
Pattern: Seamly Wrapped cardigan, size XL
Changes made: Possibly shortened the sleeves – I have short arms!
Another one/recommendations: Not sure this on my make again list. It’s a fab cardigan for travel and throwing on while on holiday, and so another might get made in a different colour for that purpose. It had a lot of wear while we were away on holiday just recently, mainly for the pockets! (Proof in the pudding, this photo is from the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbour.)

I’ll see how much wear it gets now we’re back home.The fit is great and it’s a quick and easy make. Not everyone likes draped cardigans, but I thing this is a great make.

Style Arc Gabby

December 7, 2016December 7, 2016 ~ 1107nikki ~ 6 Comments

I made this a year ago! And I’ve finally got around to photos – oops!

I first saw this pattern and fell in love with it when I saw this version by Tasia originally from Sewaholic. After seeing this version I just wasn’t happy until I’d clicked buy on the Style Arc website! The notched collarless neckline, cropped style with a curved hem. What is there not to like?

Casting my mind back a year… I made up a muslin and was actually really happy with the fit straight off, apart from… I ended up adding some darts in the back. It was just far too boxy. The darts have worked well and I don’t think look wrong at all.

The sleeve caps have great seaming. They have separate “arms” which are stitched together and then attached to the sleeve top which creates the shoulder. I also used shoulder pads, they are essential to give that great shoulder shape. I tried a couple of different pairs, these were the thinner ones. Placement of the shoulder pads actually took a long time. I wanted to get them just right.

The jacket is completely lined, including the sleeves and has a big facing which the lining is attached to. The lining is attached using the bag method and then the jacket turned the right way out. The jacket is sewn up in the lining of one of the sleeves, so it’s well and truly hidden. The neckline is top stitched around the edge adding a great finish and really bringing out those notches. I’m really pleased how that neckline looks.

There are two welt pockets. These were my first ever welt pockets and I was really happy with them. They were so much easier than I thought, but I have to say, that’s not from the StyleArc printed instructions (which are basic to say the least). There are instructions on their website, but I used the instructions from another pattern, which I knew were easy to follow.

I also love the lining on this and the drafting with the pleat top and bottom to help with the fit.

The shell fabric is a really loosely woven fabric – possibly a rayon – not sure. So even the seams on the inside have been finished so they won’t fray too much.

The deets
Fabric: Shell – Grey textured loose woven rayon? from The Fabric Warehouse pop-up store, bought October 2015. Lining – from the remnant bin at the Fabric Warehouse, bought sometime Oct/Nov 2015. Probably cost a total of $25 for the fabric!
Notions: Thread, interfacing, shoulder pads
Pattern: StyleArc Gabby Jacket, size 14
Changes made: Darts added to the back of the jacket. I may also have shortened the sleeves slightly.
Another one/recommendations: It’s probably not something I would make again, although this was kinda meant to be a wearable muslin. Mm, not sure. Don’t get me wrong, I’m really happy with this jacket and I love wearing it and particularly feel great when I remember I’ve made it myself. I’m pretty happy with the fit. If you want a great fitting jacket, I would definitely recommend it. The instructions from StyleArc can be basic at times and assume a reasonable knowledge, so this is definitely not for beginners, but it’s a really good pattern. Definitely make up a muslin first to check the fit. As I say, the back was too boxy on my, so I added darts.

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Shoes as inspiration

November 19, 2016 ~ 1107nikki ~ 8 Comments

I have these shoes which I bought about a year ago. I love the colour of them and consequently am constantly looking for things to wear with them.

I was looking through my stash and suddenly remembered this beautiful hand printed silk I bought in Thailand when we were last there in 2013.

My initial thought was to make a Sewaholic Pendrell, then decided I didn’t want to cut up that beautiful pattern with a pattern using princess seams. I ended up going with another Sewaholic Belcarra. Yes, it’s simple, but it shows off the fabric to it’s best advantage. And for me, I know the pattern works and fits, so I didn’t need to panic about making it up.

I made view B which is the option with the tucks on the shoulders. This fabric was really slippery to work with and my tucks, IMO, are not perfect, but they look fine in the photos. I’m just hyper critical!

There’s not really much else to say about the top. To finish the neckline I used a dark red bias tape. Most of the seams are French seamed, but around the cuffs, I finished the seam using my overlocker.

The deets
Fabric: Pink hand printed silk, bought in Pattaya, Thailand, April 2013.
Notions: Thread and bias binding.
Pattern: Sewaholic Belcarra, view B, size 12
Changes made: None
Another one/recommendations: Mm, this is my, erm, fifth Belcarra! Need I say any more? No I doubt it’ll be my last, I love the shape, the fit and the fact that it can look fab out of all types of material!

The other part of this outfit is also new! I decided a while ago that I wanted a black circle skirt for the winter which would also transition through spring. Strangely I’ve only made one circle skirt before and could I find my pattern? I had to do some maths (happy Nikki) and work out the pattern again. (And don’t tell me to use one of the many calculators available, I am too fat for them because they say so… Basically they say I can’t make a circle skirt because the fabric isn’t made wide enough! Bugger that!) This is actually a 3/4 circle and fortunately since the fabric is plain I could place some pattern pieces upside now and no one will notice.

The skirt has just side seams, no centre front and no centre back. Both were cut on the fold. The zip is a lapped zipper in the left side. The waistband is just a self-drafted straight waistband made to the size of the pre-made waistband stiffening I have.

The deets
Fabric: Black cotton gaberdine from the Fabric Warehouse, bought July/August I think
Notions: Thread, zip, waistband interfacing and a hook and eye for the fastening.
Pattern: Self-drafted 3/4 circle skirt using the details on this page
Changes made: None, It’s self-drafted 🙂
Another one/recommendations: No doubt I will make another circle skirt in the future. I honestly think it’s just as simple to draft your own rather than buy a pattern. As long as you let them hang so the hem drops out on the bias seams. This gaberdine was beautiful to make up, it dropped very little and it hangs like a dream. It’s given me a skirt to feel really girly in and I can twirl in it too 🙂

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Moa Point Pilvi

November 12, 2016 ~ 1107nikki ~ 4 Comments

I’ve only seen one other of these dresses out in the wild, but for me, as soon as I saw the pattern it was one I had to make.

So if you haven’t guessed from the title, this is the Pilvi coat dress from the Named FW16 Evolution Theory Collection. It’s a little different from my normal style, but somehow this pattern called to me. It’s described as a fitted, coat like jersey dress with long sleeves. It has patch pockets, yes pockets, and a double breasted closure.

My fabric is a ponte double knit from the Fabric Warehouse. I went to have a look and one of my WSBN friends who works there suggested this lovely teal green colour. I reckon she chose me a good colour!

Following my measurements I cut a UK size 16. I attached the pockets and basically put the dress together and tried it on – too tight. It was showing far too many of my lumps and bumps! So I unpicked every seam – yes, honest, each one from just above the bust to just below the hips and stitched them again using a 1/4″ seam allowance. I also unpicked and re-stitched the sleeves at the top. (I’d used a long narrow zig-zag on my machine, not my overlocker.) I wouldn’t normally sew it this small, but it works with this fabric. I think perhaps my fabric stretch wasn’t quite enough…

The pattern instructions are really clear and easy to follow. The collar attached like a dream. There is also a facing around the back of the neck which attaches to two long front facing pieces. Basically that front section is four layers of fabric and there’s even stretch interfacing for the facing pieces.

I attempted to attach the belt loops and wasn’t happy with the placement, so I took them out and decided to go without. I’ve not made the belt either. I might change my mind to see what it looks like, but I thought a belt from two layers of ponte would be too thick.

Buttons are such a big choice. I went to Made Marion, MrsC’s fine emporium and get these amazing brushed metal buttons. My buttonholes aren’t perfect but when done up, that stretching isn’t obvious. There is also supposed to be a button on the inside at the top. Attaching this was difficult, so I’ve attached a snap fastner instead to keep that top part of the facing done up.

It looks like the crossover is a long way down, but it works at this position and doesn’t gape and is still high enough to be decent. Not that you can really see from my photos – the wind kept blowing the lapel up!

The deets
Fabric: Teal green ponte double knit from the Fabric Warehouse, bought September time
Notions: Interfacing, thread, buttons and a snap fastner
Pattern: Named Pilvi Coat dress, size 40
Changes made: I omitted the belt and belt loops, otherwise unchanged
Another one/recommendations: I like this dress and I’m reasonably happy with the fit, having let out the seams. It’s still a wee bit tight around the bust as you can see from the stretch lines. Unfortunately it’s now getting to spring/summer (that’s if the weather behaves) and I don’t think this is going to get much wear this year. The instructions are really clear and easy to follow and although it may look a bit 80s, it’s actually a great dress. I have some more knit fabric which I bought for something else. I’m wondering if it might work for this… It has a bit more stretch and might work better.

And if you’re wondering about the name. Kat and I decided to take photos around one of the southern tips of Wellington, Moa Point. So we sat on benches, found signs, electricity cabinets, holes in the rock, etc, etc. It was very windy and we got just a little bit windswept, took some silly photos, watched the planes coming into the airport, checked out some things we haven’t seen and I found a pretty much whole paua shell 🙂

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Nikki's Stitches

A sewing diary…

More wardrobe staples…

Muse Rua

A sweat of shirts (?) or aye aye Nelson…

In-flight cardigan

Style Arc Gabby

Shoes as inspiration

Moa Point Pilvi