kenyer

Really nice, I probably going to try it on the laser cutter. I would vote for you, but because I am in this contest myself, I won't. (sorry :P) But is worth it.

Hi Jerry, Not all lasers are created equal. A 80 watt 'cheap' laser has less power than a 60 watt 'high end' laser. I used a 60 watt 'high end' Trotec laser cutter with a 2.5" lens. (a longer lens is better for thicker materials) The 'normal' lens on this laser cutter is 1.5". Best way to find out is to try it!

Thank you...... I think :P

Hi Vlad,Thank you so much for your intructable. I have an old lasercutter with a really bad honeycomb table. Because I don't have the funds to buy a new one, I am searching for DIY ways to replace it, and I really like your design. I think that I will recycle one of the old honeycomb frames that I've got when I bought the laser, to make the frame. I will show my results. (first wait for the wire to arrive from China)Peter (Kenyer)

I'm am working on a lot of projects, but not all are my design, so it is not up to me to post them. I hope to post a real nice Sumo-robot kit soon. Not a solution for a problem, but very cool to play with.

I really like how your mind works! :)

Great first Ible Daan!

Hi Datoo,Both profiles are the same thickness. I just used an U-profile so it will stay in place. I have this shelves still in place and they work perfectly.

Really great project. I'm working on a similar project in the Netherlands, only my design is laser-cut. I will post an Ible as soon as I have working robots. (I'm waiting for my Glowforge lasercutter to be delivered for a long time now) I will probably borrow some of your mechanics for my project. Thank you for sharing. You'll get my vote.

That would be really cool indeed. You will need to add an extra button for that. Besides that, as I remember correctly, uses my sketch almost all the memory of the arduino, so you will have to delete some functions to add some. That solves your menu problem at the same time. Just change some menu function in the tic tac toe. I couldn't see how long his sketch is, because I don't have a Windows computer, but it would be really cool.

Hi Kaushal,This might not be the best project to make your intro into Arduino. For me this is a really old project and Arduino was still running on version 0 at that time, but it should still work I think.It looks like you are missing different parts of the sketch. In the 'void setup()' part of the sketch, the arduino is supposed to go to the 'void setTime()' sketch. It seems that the sketch can't find that part.By debugging it might be a good idea to solve it step by step, so first see of you can solve the first error in the list. But it seems to be the same problem over and over.It might be that there is a different way to point to parts of your sketch in the newer Arduino software.Again, this might not be the best project to start your Arduino adventure with.

I have no idea. I build this as a proof of concept. I never used it in real life.

I'm curious what you come up with. I already ordered some level bubbles to make something like your design.

I bought mine on kickstarter from Robo3D.

that depends on the printer used and the settings. For me it takes between 1 and 2 hours.

very nicely done!

great!

So cool to see that you went through the same thinking proces as I did. I also tried the coins. I even tried to put the coins in while printing, so they are incapsulated. (not with great succes). Nice project.

great design and use of color.

Just a combination of everything cool: Portal, Arduino, 3D-printing and laser! Nice

I really like the modular part of it. It invites to make up my own designs.

I'm really curious how this project will continue. You have my vote towards a clean t-shirt!

Great project, great Ible. Love it!

If you live in the Netherlands, than we must be able to arrange something. If you live somewhere else than I probably won't be able to help you.

yes, that's you :)

Perhaps someone there can help you? You might have a local maker space or fablab?

nice!

If you live in Western Europe, I can.

Use the cheapest that spin nice.

What do you mean with safer?

I really don't like jewelry (also on women), but somehow I love tech/science themed jewelry, and your is one of the coolest I've seen. I definitely going to make one. I will show it when I'm done.

Absolutely, that is what I used.

That could be anywhere from 200,- until 3000,- or even more for pro-printers.For around 500,- you can get a nice kit already.

You can try any skate-shop. Online depends on the country where you live.

Hi 7macs,I have a Robo3D. I have their first (Kickstarter) model. I did some diy upgrades before it works like it does now. I would probably buy an other model if I would buy it now. Robo3D have a new model now that probably is much better. There are many YouTube videos that compare printers. If you buy a cheaper printer it probably takes more tinkering to get a nice print. Good luck with it.

Hi Alison,That depends greatly on where you live. If it is somewhere in the west of Europe, than I'm sure we can arrange something.If it is somewhere else in the world, than you might want to try aliexpress or eBay.

Hi Ezrak,I would probably sculpt it and mold it out of resin. Or I could sculpt it out of wood. Or it would be really cool to cast it out of aluminum. You could probably even cut it out of cardboard. Or you could weld coins to a bearing. Perhaps it would even work with Lego's.Probably some methodes would fail. That is the cool thing about making stuff, you are always learning and like Adam says: Failure is always an option!Have fun with it.

I'm not sure. I think something like 20,00 euro, but that gives me enough material to make more armatures.

Hi Pardo,I also started with only half a wall, but I buy the dvd's really cheap, second hand for 0,50 or 1,- and the collection keeps on growing. Now some movies even have to move to an other wall :)

I will post the end-result on YouTube for sure, but don't expect it soon ;)

Oh yes :)

Yes they probably are, but I really can't draw.....

What is a 123456 hand clip?

Hi Redkcir,Nice to read that you use this to build your own, even though it is not a real step by step instructable. It is a long time ago so I'm not sure, but it seems like it is a file that just has some config info in it. You can probably replace it with these lines: #define OLED_address 0x3c#define INTERNAL_I2C_PULLUPSThis is all that I could find in the file.

Hello GabrielacostaIf you print the spinner at 100%, a standard skate bearing should just fit. Sometimes it helps to use a rubber hammer to get them in.

Hoi Joran,Het is een heel oud project voor mij, dus ik moet diep in mijn geheugen graven. Zover als ik het herinner leest de sketch die ik gebruik alleen de eerste 6 cijfers en omdat de eerste en zesde bij mij steeds 0 waren gebruik ik verder in de code alleen de tweede t/m de vijfde. Ik gebruik de iButton sketch om deze cijfers van de iButton te lezen. (als ik het goed herinner)

Hoi Joran,Als je de sketch in stap 2 "iButton.pde" draait en de ibutton lezer aansluit, dan kan je in de serial monitor de waardes zien die je moet invullen als je de iButton op de leze houdt.Ik hoop dat dit je verder helpt.

Ik zal weer even in de sketch moeten duiken. Als je over een paar dagen nog niets hebt gehoord, moet je nog maar even een berichtje als reminder sturen.

Het probleem is dat al mijn oudere sketches op een inmiddels overleden harddisk stonden, dus ik heb niets meer van dit project, behalve wat in deze Ible staat. Ik kan dus niet meer even terug naar de originele Nederlandse aantekeningen. Zit je toevallig ergens in de buurt? ik zit in de Hoekse Waard.

I use PLA, but if your printer can handle it, you could also use ABS or PETG or something.

Hi stringstretcher,If you open the 123d file in 123d-design, than you can mod them any way you like and export them in any format you like. The 123d-design software is free for mac or windows.I hope this helps.Peter

I'm working on my stop-motion aspirations for a couple of days now. (Ible will come). I would love to see yours in action.

Cool to see the "technisch speelgoed" mini makerspace in someone else's Ible. Really nicely done Bas!

Or on step 5 or 6 if you want to print that model.

Go to step 2 and you will find the file there.

No problem if you sell them on your school.

Exactly

I'm really curious for the lighted version. Please post it if you managed it.I did some ties to make a smaller version, but until now I didn't manage to make something good.

Hi,If you use standard skate bearings with a 8 mm hole, the handle piece is supposed to fit snugly. Without using spacers. The settings of your printer might be the cause here. Perhaps a little drop of glue might do the trick?

I tried that with our European cents and it does work, but I like the design with bearings much better.

Is this a commercial Ible?

Nice to hear.Here is the file for the button: http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/fidget-button/6345020

As you can see, JdeZwaan did one in wood. But you could also go to a makerspace or fablab, where they have 3d-printers and they can help you with it. Or you can order a print at a 3dprinters hub or 3d printing company like shapeways.

That only works with ABS and I only print with PLA. Sometimes I make my models smooth the old way: sanding, filler, sanding, primer, sanding, spray paint, sanding, spray paint.

Wow, a really great result!

Or like we say it here: "goe gedaan jochie" ;)

Great to hear. I now made some in blue with bearings with a red dust cover. And that looks very nice. (not red brand, but also with a red dust cover. Red brand is not for sale here)

please show the result :)

I now ordered the cheapest bearings I can get for the outer bearings and more expensive ones for the centre one. I will let you know when they arrive and if I can feel the difference.