Warmest Christmas Wishes
May I extend my warmest wishes
for a Christmas Day filled with
the love of family
and the company of good friends
May the joy of Christmas
be with you and yours
and may it be filled with happiness and peace
With warmest wishes, Karen
Jerez de la Frontera, is the home of sherry. An unplanned visit to Jerez, only a 30 minute drive from Cádiz, in the Andalusia region of Spain was a pleasant discovery. It is well known for its Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian riding and its dancing horses which is second only to the world famous riding school in Vienna. It also has a long tradition of flamenco dancing but it is mostly known as being the sherry capital of the world. While it is not my favorite apéritif, I am a big fan of Jerez sherry vinegar, Spain’s most famous vinegar, so that is how a last minute decision was made to visit Jerez.
Ciecos Street Jerez de la Frontera
Click on any photo to enlarge and see a slide show.
Now tell me, would you visit a city because you happen to like the vinegar that is produced there? Well I’m very happy I did as the city is everything you think a Spanish city should be. Wander the narrow cobblestone streets of the old quarter and you can’t help but fall in love with Jerez. The city is known for its wonderful architecture of whitewashed buildings with wrought iron balconies filled with pots of jasmine and geraniums, baroque churches, quaint shops, restaurants and sherry bars.
Jerez’s 12th century Alcazar, a Moorish fortress, is the oldest structure in the city. The Moors held Jerez for almost 400 years until Alfonso of Castile retook it in 1264.
Across from the Alcazar and seen from many parts of the city, the splendid Cathedral of San Salvador was built between the 16th and 18th centuries above a former mosque.
Beyond the fortress walls and the cathedral, large squares and pedestrian streets are lined with palms and orange trees. Plaza del Arenal is the heart of the city, the town meeting place since the time of the Moors.
At the convergence of several large streets there is a building where a restaurant called El Gallo Azul has been for many years. The almost circular building is one of the most photographed and has become an unmistakable landmark in Jerez de la Frontera. From there you can walk down Calle Larga which is the main shopping promenade.
Just north is Plaza Esteve, where the colorful food market, Mercado de Abastos, is located. It is an impressive building of stone with stained glass windows and wrought iron gates and is the oldest market in Jerez.
Inside there are over a hundred stalls that sell local produce, bread, meat and some of the best fresh seafood I’ve ever seen. From what I observed, locals seem to have their favorite stalls where they make their purchases for the freshest ingredients.
While on our tour of Jerez de la Frontera, we visited González Byass. Located in the very center of town, it is devoted to the making and selling of sherry. It was founded in 1835 and is the most visited of the city’s 36 bodegas or what we would refer to as aging rooms.
In 1862, for a visit by Queen Isabel II, the company built a new bodega called La Concha that was designed by engineer Gustav Eiffel. On our tour though several of the aging bodegas, we saw barrels of wine that had been signed by countless celebrities and world figures from around the world. On one bodega, there are 12 casks that hold 6,000 liters and one that holds 16,500 liters.
You may be familiar with their brand of fino sherry called Tío Pepe. Its famous logo is a wine bottle dressed in a red Andalusian hat, matching bolero and guitar. Not only does the company produce sherry, they also produce sherry vinegar. It has a tawny flavor that is more complex than apple cider vinegar, more rounded than red wine vinegar and not as sweet as balsamic vinegar. I can say I am happy to have visited the town where my favorite vinegar is made.
Jerez de la Frontera was not one of the cities my husband and I had planned to visit on our recent tour of Spain. We were originally going to tour the beautiful city of Seville but because of record heat we made last minute plans to visit Jerez de la Frontera. We are so glad that we visited this lovely Spanish city. Even if you are not a fan of sherry, I encourage you to visit Jerez if you get a chance. It is a charming city filled with a rich history and influences of different cultures. Hopefully we will get a chance to visit Seville in the future. If so, we would probably make a day trip back to Jerez as it is just a short hour’s drive away.
Portugal, with its two biggest cities of Lisbon and Porto, its colorful old villages and quaint seaside towns along the dramatic coastline, all make the country a top travel destination. Add that it is one of the most affordable countries in Western Europe and Portugal tempts travelers to put the country on their travel “bucket list”.
Stand in one of the central squares in Lisbon, walk along the riverside promenade in Porto, climb the steep cobbled streets up to an ancient church, a romantic palace or the ruins of a Moorish fortress in one of the small towns and you will find that the varied architectural styles reveal the history and culture of this fascinating country.
Douro River, Porto, Portugal
Porto is a hilly town which is divided by the Douro River and has a feel of two different cities. In the modern city center, Liberty Square with beautiful architecture and monuments, restaurants and hotels connects the newer part to the old town with its slopping, cobbled streets lined with blue tile covered buildings. Porto, known for its fortified port wine, has many of its famous port houses lined up along its riverfront. There are lots of bars and restaurants, many with outside patios, where you can enjoy a glass of port wine and try some of the city’s traditional foods. During our visit, we toured the Sandeman’s cellar to learn about and taste their fine ruby and tawny ports.
Click on any photo to enlarge and see a slide show.
Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world and was the starting point for dozens of voyages around the world. There was a taxi strike when we visited Lisbon making travel difficult there. We didn’t walk through the city, but instead took a scenic bus trip before heading out to the hillside town Sintra and seaside town of Cascais.
My favorite spot that we visited during our time in Portugal was the fairytale town of Sintra which is only 15 miles outside the city of Lisbon. It is home to many wonderful villas, castles and palaces. On top of a peak in the Sintra hills is the most famous and colorful palace that you can imagine, the Pena Palace which is a destination in itself.
If you had to describe Portugal in one word, I would probably say “colorful” as there is an explosion of colors everywhere you look. There are beautiful ornate churches, brightly painted houses, entire buildings covered with intricate hand painted blue and white Portuguese (azulejos) tile, and town squares and sidewalks paved in patterns of black and white stones, which are art in themselves.
Outside of the towns and villages, the natural beauty of Portugal’s rugged coastline is a big draw. The stunning landscape at Cabo de Roca lighthouse offers some of the most beautiful natural scenery in the country. Perched on a high bluff at the edge of the windswept Atlantic, it is the most western point of mainland Europe. Looking out to sea where the ocean and sky meet, you can easily understand why it was once thought to be the edge of the world.
Not all is perfect with Portugal, there is a faded grandeur that is slowly disappearing as many beautiful buildings have been left to ruin. Explore the hilly back streets and you see reminders of the economic downturn from previous years. Historic ruins are coated in lichen and overgrown with vines. Graffiti decorates the walls of once grand buildings and shops. Dilapidated houses with broken windows have been abandoned and slowly crumble from neglect and time. This is because of Portugal’s strict preservation laws that prevent property owners from altering or destroying the fronts of historic buildings. Many poor property owners have no choice but to let them slowly crumble.
While people have moved out of some of these historic neighborhoods, others continue to live and work in these surroundings as seen by laundry hanging from balconies. Palms and olive trees still grow among the graffitied landscape. On a bright note, with more tourists visiting Portugal, buildings are slowly being bought and renovated and hopefully will bring life back to these once thriving ancient neighborhoods.
Historical Buildings In Sintra
The colorful world of Portugal seems to be a land of wonderful contradictions. Dramatic coastlines and tranquil beaches, fairytale palaces rise above small villages. Large churches and monuments can be found in the smallest of towns. As a first time visitor to Portugal, I was pleasantly surprised that the charming cities and towns were not filled with crowds of tourists.
****
After my brief two day introduction, I can see why Portugal has become a top tourist destination in Europe. I know I would love to return and explore more of the picturesque towns with their interesting architecture and the scenic countryside. It would be wonderful to visit the country’s famous vineyards and perhaps stay in one of the historic Portuguese pousadas in the Douro Valley.
I’ve been to some nice backyard barbecues but I think I can now safely say that I attended “The Ultimate Barbecue and Dance Party”, while on a cruise no less. The party was held on the beautiful pool deck of the Seven Seas Explorer while on a 12 night cruise along the coast of France, Portugal and Spain. We had been onboard for 6 days and knew the ship offered wonderful menus in all of its restaurants and thought that a barbecue on the pool deck would be nice but we were not expecting to be amazed.
Setting Up For The Grand Deck BBQ And Dance Party
My husband and I arrived a little early to have a cocktail at the pool bar, just as the finishing touches were being put into place. Colorful flags stretched above the deck, white table linens covered tables surrounding the pool and were laid with polished crystal and silver. Musicians were setting up their instruments and within hours after serving lunch, the crew had transformed the pool deck into a gorgeous outdoor restaurant. As people slowly gathered to find a table, Champagne, wine and cocktails were being offered. This was the scene for a very nice barbecue, very nice indeed.
Click on any photo in the article to enlarge and see a slide show.
I decided to stroll over to the Pool Grill and see what was going to be offered. On one side there was a fresh seafood buffet with chilled Alaskan King Crab legs, shrimp and mussels piled high on ice. A chef was grilling lobster tails and shrimp kebabs. This alone let me know that it was going to be a special party, actually very special.
About this time my husband commented, “well if it was a really good barbecue, there would be a whole roasted pig”. Guess what, he was right. Just one thing though, there was not one but two whole roasted pigs just waiting to be pulled apart. Pulled pork, now we are talking about a real barbecue as far as this Texas girl is concerned.
Whole Roasted Pig At The BBQ
Of course that wasn’t all, there was more, much more. On the other side of the Pool Grill, cooked to order pasta and risotto was being prepared along with sautéed Mediterranean vegetables. In another area, there were sliced cured meats and over a dozen different, perfectly ripe, European cheeses, a large assortment of salads as well as fresh baked breads, cakes and pastries. Last but not least, there was an ice cream sundae bar with sauces and sprinkles.
I have to take my foodie hat off to Senior Executive Chef Sean Emsile and his entire galley team for pulling off “the ultimate barbecue”. The highly skilled and imaginative chefs not only prepared the freshest of ingredients, they were prepared to perfection and beautifully presented.
But wait, I did mention a dance party didn’t I. Yes, there was an orchestra and the ship’s production cast of singers and dancers, everything necessary to “Rock the Boat” as the dance party was being called. As the sun went down, the outdoor lights came on, the music went from mellow to hot and it was time to party.
Rock The Boat Dance Party
While I never felt the Explorer rocking that night, I can guarantee you that there was a lot of swinging and rocking happening on the pool deck. A cool breeze and a starry night sky was the “icing on the cake” so to speak.
****
If you are ever invited to a party on the pool deck of the Seven Seas Explorer, make sure you go. If it is anything like the one we experienced, I know you will have a great time and you will be saying the same thing. It was the “ultimate barbecue and dance party” that you ever had the pleasure to attend.
I thought that an evening barbecue outside on the pool deck would be nice event but was not expecting to be amazed with how nice it was. Have you ever gone to a barbecue and dance party that was memorable like this one? I’d love to hear about it.
The Spanish Basque Country will delight any visitor. It is famous for its colorful fishing villages, sandy beaches and dramatic scenery along its coast as well as for cities such as Bilbao, with Frank Gehry’s striking architectural landmark, the Guggenheim Modern Art Museum. With its own flag, language and culture, the Basque Country has a different feel than the rest of Spain and should be put on your “must see” travel list.
The Colorful Fishing Village Of Bermeo
The rugged Basque coastline on the Bay of Biscay in Northeast Spain, with cliffs that plunge into the pounding surf, is dotted with traditional small villages as well as resort towns known for their spectacular beaches and some of the best surfing in Europe. During our cruise aboard the Seven Seas Explorer, we had an over night stay in the port city of Getxo, a lovely seaside town about 15 minutes from Bilbao, Spain. Over the course of a day and a half, we visited Bilbao and several other nearby towns in the Spanish Basque Country.
Click on any photo in the article to enlarge and see a slide show.
Riding along the coast, our first stop was to see San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a small chapel perched on top of a tiny island. For the physically fit, you can reach the chapel by crossing a long stone footbridge and then climbing a couple hundred steep steps up the rocky island. If you are a Game of Thrones fan, you might recognize it as “Dragonstone”.
Bermeo is one of the Basque Country’s most important fishing ports. The picturesque old port has colorful narrow houses that overlook the boats in the harbor. Many are now bars where the locals stop for a drink and a pintxo (similar to tapas). In the main square, there is a pretty gazebo, the town hall and the Santa Maria Church. At the top of town, you find the Ercilla Tower which is now the Fisherman’s Museum.
The former capital of ancient Vizcaya, Gernika/Guernica was our next stop. Unfortunately it is best known for a tragic bombing event that destroyed a large portion of the town during the Spanish Civil War. Casa de Juntas, its assembly house, and an oak tree survived the bombing and are now symbols of Basque’s political history. The bombing was later immortalized by Pablo Picasso in one of his most famous paintings, the huge black and white mural called “Guernica”.
Typical Basque Pintxos
After our tour, we visited 1000 Kolorau, a restaurant that specializes in fresh fish. We sat outside on the shaded terrace and enjoyed glasses of Txakoli de Vizcaya, the most popular white wine in the Basque region along with pintxos of grilled octopus, bread topped with potatoes, bacalao and jamón and delicious olive rolls stuffed with jamón. While tapas are common in other parts of Spain, pintxos, which are generally smaller, are traditional snacks in the Spanish Basque Country.
The following day we toured Bilbao. Our first stop was the Great Biscay Transporter Bridge built in 1893 by a student of Gustave Eiffel, the construction of which my husband found to be very interesting. It was destroyed during the Spanish Civil War but was rebuilt. It carries people and cars, across the river in an open gondola that hangs suspended from the bridge.
From there we drove up to Mount Artxanda, one of the two mountains within the city limits, that offers wonderful views of Bilbao from its park. There is a huge fingerprint sculpture called “Huella Dactilar” which honors the many victims that were killed during the Spanish Civil War.
Then it was on to the celebrated Guggenheim Modern Art Museum which is constructed of shimmering titanium, stone and glass. The museum is the most photographed structure in Bilbao. Outside the museum, the other popular spots for a photo is the enormous sculpture of “Puppy” which is covered in living flowers and the giant spider “Maman”.
****
Although the Spanish Basque Country is not visited as much as other regions of Spain, it should be. With spectacular scenery of lush green mountains, rolling countryside and pristine beaches, good wine and delicious food found at both small pintxos bars and world famous Michelin starred restaurants, there is something for everyone. We loved the Basque Country and would love to return for a longer visit. The resort town of San Sebastian is at the top of our list as we missed it on this trip to Spain due to a last minute port change and it is a favorite of visitors to this region.
You can’t keep a foodie out of the kitchen, even while on a cruise along the coast of France, Spain and Portugal. Who could resist participating in a cooking class, creating five classic French recipes that can be served at a simple French dinner party in your own home.
Simple French Dinner Party
After sailing out of the port of Bordeaux, France, my husband and I joined 16 other participants in the Culinary Arts Kitchen on the Seven Seas Explorer for a fun afternoon of cooking. We were greeted by Chef Kathryn Kelly and Chef Instructor Kellie and told to head to a cooking station and put on our aprons. Glasses of wine were poured and the fun began.
The ship’s state of the art kitchen is impressive with floor to ceiling windows looking out to the ocean, quartz countertops, and lots of stainless steel. The room has eighteen individual cooking stations built in three long curved rows. Each station has an induction cooktop, stainless steel sink, wooden knife block and pullout drawer full of necessary utensils. I’ve attended many cooking classes over the years, even given by Michelin starred chefs from France, and this wonderful kitchen is a real dream. Cutting boards and knifes were carefully laid out along with prepped ingredients just waiting for us to start cooking.
Before we started each course, we all gathered around Chef Kelly and her instructor to listen and watch how each dish should be prepared before we headed back to our own stations to cook the dish ourselves. As we were cooking, both chefs circulated among us, giving advice and making sure that we were doing everything properly. Their assistants made sure empty bowls were quickly carried away and our assembled dishes were taken to the ovens to bake. Wine glasses were refilled as we plated and then tasted our finished dishes before we started the next course.
Executive Chef Kathryn Kelly, Myself And Chef Instructor Kelli
The culinary classes are an hour and a half to two hours long and the time flew by. It was great fun, we learned some new cooking tips and were given the recipes so that we could prepare this simple French dinner in our own home for friends. I thought you might enjoy having one of Chef Kelly’s recipes…it is her Chicken Fines Herbes.
Fines herbes, an equal mixture of tarragon, chervil, parsley and chives, is a classic combination used in French cooking to enhance chicken, fish, veal, salads and egg dishes. Because they lose their flavor rather quickly, they should be added to a recipe like this at the last minute or used as a garnish for sauces, soups, sautés and seafood dishes.
Chicken Breast With Fines Herbes Sauce
Chicken Fines Herbes
Serves 6, adjust the recipe accordingly.
Preheat the over to 450 degrees.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towel. In a large sauté pan over high heat, warm 4 Tbsp. of the butter until searing hot. Add the chicken and sear, turning once, until both sides are golden brown. Transfer to the oven and cook to an internal temperature of 162 degrees. Remove from the oven and reserve warm.
In the same sauté pan over medium heat, melt the remaining 2 Tbsp. of butter and sweat the shallots until soft, about 3 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine and stir to deglaze the pan, allowing the alcohol to evaporate and the sauce to reduce to a syrupy consistency.
Decrease the heat to medium-low. Add the cream and warm through. Then add the demi-glace and warm through, adjusting the heat as needed to prevent simmering. Stir in half of the fines herbes. Season to taste with salt and pepper if needed.
Slice each chicken breast on the diagonal into 3 pieces and layer, shingle style, on a serving plate. Pour the sauce over the chicken and garnish with the remaining fines herbes.
**
My tips for preparing this recipe:
****
I hope you will enjoy the Chicken Fines Herbes recipe as much as our class did. We enjoyed the dish so much that we have prepared the chicken and herb sauce at home. I agree with Chef Kelly when she wrote “When I think of elegant, I think of French…however, when I think of simple, I usually do NOT think of French.” With this recipe, she managed to do both, creating a simple dish that will impress your guests. Thank you, Chef!
If you are a wine lover, you can’t say “Bordeaux” and not think about some of the world’s finest wines like Margaux, Médoc, Pauillac, Sauternes and Saint-Emilion. The huge wine region has 62 different appellations and more than 7300 châteaux on both banks of the Garonne River in southwest France.
For now though, I’m not referring to the great wine or the largest wine region in France but to its capital, the City of Bordeaux, a UNESCO World Heritage City. With broad boulevards, beautiful 18th century architecture and delightful squares lined with cafés and bars, the city will remind you of Paris but on a much smaller scale.
The City Of Bordeaux
Bordeaux is a port city on the Garonne river and was a two day port of call during a cruise aboard the Seven Seas Explorer. The ship, which only carries 750 passengers, was small enough to dock right at the quayside in the city center. With its historic buildings and gardens, it is probably one of the most beautiful waterfronts I’ve seen. All my husband and I had to do was step off the gangway and much of the city was within easy walking distance. Instead of browsing this vibrant and charming city on our own, we decided to take a guided tour of Bordeaux on one day and nearby Saint-Emilion and the surrounding wine country on the other day.
Bordeaux is a compact and very walkable city. Take a leisurely stroll along the riverfront quay where the wine trade started, through narrow streets and beautiful squares of historic Bordeaux and you will pass remnants of the old city such the Grosse Cloche or the Big Bell of Bordeaux. It used to be the gateway into the medieval city, an area now full of boutiques and cafés. In stark contrast to the old gate, the ultra modern Bordeaux law courts are a striking and unusual complex.
Click on any photo to enlarge and see a slide show.
Nearby on the main square of Pey Berland is the Cathedral of Saint André. In the 15th century a separate bell tower was built next to the cathedral. You can climb to the top of the bell tower for a wonderful view of the city.
Opposite the cathedral is the Palais Rohan which was originally built for the bishop of Bordeaux, now it is the city hall. Nearby is the Museum of Beaux Arts, one of the largest fine art galleries in France outside Paris.
Porte Dijeaux is a decorative gate into the heart of the old city that was built in 1748 on the spot where one of the Roman gates once stood. Not far away is the Place de la Comédie with the Grand Theater and the Grand Hotel. The theater, built in 1780, it is one of the older opera houses in Europe. The square itself is where the main streets of Bordeaux converge, including the busy shopping street Rue Sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrian shopping street in France.
La Place du Parlement, ringed with pretty buildings, cafés and a central fountain was once the seat of Bordeaux’s medieval government. The beautiful square was turned into an elegant market square in 1754 and today it is a lively place in the heart of the city with charming streets leading off in all directions.
The showcase of Bordeaux is Place de la Bourse. In front of it is the Miroir d’Eau, the Water Mirror, which is the world’s largest reflecting pool. Large slabs of blue granite are covered in water and reflect the 18th century Place de la Bourse. The shallow water is timed to slowly empty then becomes a fog before the reflection pool fills again. The Bourse and its reflection pool has now become the new symbol of this elegant city.
***
Saint-Emilion
Only 30 minutes from the center of Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion is a charming medieval village located in the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine region. The hilltop village is surrounded by vineyards growing right up to its village walls.
Looking Over The Rooftops Of Saint-Emilion
Since the 9th century, blocks of local stone were excavated for buildings in the village as well as for châteaux in the area and buildings in the surrounding region. The quarrying created underground humid, dark caves that were the perfect environment for wine storage. The village as well as the vineyards of Saint-Emilion are designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
With its 12th century ramparts, a maze of steep winding alleyways, charming storefronts, a 14th century cloister and views over terra cotta rooftops, this tiny village is so picturesque that it reminds you of an illustration from a child’s storybook. Wander through the streets and squares of the village and you will soon discover the Eglise Monolithe, the largest underground church in Europe which was carved out of solid limestone rock in the 11th century. Its separate bell tower rises high above everything else in the village.
There are four narrow and very steep cobblestone streets known as tertres that connect the upper and lower parts of the village. While the tertres can be daunting, they are the way to get to many of the cafés, wine bars and other attractions in the village.
There are a number of shops in both the lower and upper part of the village that sell macaroons, a specialty from a 1600’s recipe from the nuns of the Les Ursulines order.
We had walked down one of the tertres earlier on our visit to see the underground church and ventured up an even steeper one while exploring. I can tell you that two of the tertres were enough for us. Even though there is an iron handrail down the middle of the cobblestone street for pedestrians to hold on to, I can’t imagine how hard it would be to walk up or down one of them on a rainy day. What we learned while walking the steep streets of Saint-Emilion is an appreciation of the life of local villagers. While it may be a harder life than many of us are used to, they are rewarded with many sweet pleasures.
Pretty Saint-Emilion
****
Our visit to Bordeaux quickly came to an end and it was time to continue on our cruise. The ship had to leave at a specific time when the water level was low enough for the Explorer to pass under the Pont Chaban Delmas bridge, the largest lift bridge built in Europe. The 384 foot middle section is raised whenever tall ships need to pass safely underneath.
This southwestern region of France has lots to keep a visitor happy and Bordeaux is a city that I would definitely return to for a longer stay. I would use it as a base and venture out into the wine region on day trips. Historical towns, châteaux and wine tastings, yes that sounds like a lovely holiday.
The quaint little town of Dinan is one of the best preserved medieval villages in Brittany, France and has a completely different atmosphere from other small towns in the area. It was the first town that my husband and I visited during our recent cruise along the coasts of France, Spain and Portugal and what a delightful treat is was.
Dinan, One Of The Prettiest Towns In Brittany
Our first port of call was in Saint-Malo, France and most of the people on the Seven Seas Explorer were going to visit Mont Saint-Michel. While Mont Saint-Michel is “a must see” if you are in the area, we had already visited on several of our previous trips to France. Instead, we decided to visit the historic hilltop town of Dinan, about 15 miles south of Saint-Malo. Dinan has been called one of the “prettiest towns in Brittany” so we couldn’t pass up a chance to visit it.
View Of Dinan’s Old River Port From The Ramparts
Dinan escaped bombing in WWII and is wonderfully preserved. It has a picture postcard old town that is still surrounded by most of its thick ramparts and has almost all of its defensive towers still standing.
The walled old town is a maze of very narrow, steep cobblestone streets lined with arcaded ancient stone and overhanging half-timbered buildings.
Half-Timbered Buildings In Dinan
Place des Merciers is where you can find some of the prettiest buildings. Many of them date back to the 15th century and have been wonderfully restored although some have such a lean to them that you wonder how they don’t topple over. Lots of the old structures are now boutiques, galleries, crêperies and restaurants…the town just oozes with charm.
Click on any photo in the article to enlarge and see a slide show.
The Tour de l’Horloge, an impressive 15th century clock tower, can be seen from many parts of the old town and offers wonderful views if you climb to the top.
Nearby the Maison de la Harpe, a 16th century half-timbered house, is now the headquarters of International Celtic Harp Committee.
Behind the St. Sauveur Basilica, which is in the center of town, there is a small English garden and nearby you will find St. Catherine’s Tower. You can get a wonderful view down to the River Rance and what used to be the old port from the tower and ramparts here.
View Of The Rance River With Old Stone Houses
The Rue du Jerzual is a steep, picturesque street that leads down the hill to the river and the little port. At the bottom, there is a 15th century stone bridge that crosses the water to the other side. The river front and the streets behind are lined with pretty stone houses, many of them waterside restaurants and it is also where you can find boats that offer cruises along the river.
****
It had been many years since my husband and I had been in this area of France. Somehow during our travels to Brittany and Normandy, we never visited Dinan. I have a feeling it was because we couldn’t find parking nearby for the historic walled old town. I’m so happy that we got a chance to visit on this trip.
Brittany, with its own language, Celtic traditions, music and traditional foods, almost feels like visiting some other country instead of being in the most westerly region of France. If you get the opportunity to visit Brittany, I would encourage you to visit the medieval village of Dinan. Once a mighty walled citadel, now the charming town really is one of the prettiest in Brittany. Hopefully you will be lucky enough to visit on a sunny, warm day when there is one of the numerous traditional festivals being held. While there, take time to sample a few of their crêpes, both savory and sweet, along with a glass of cider.
Let me welcome you aboard the Seven Seas Explorer, our home away from home for a 12 night cruise from Southampton, England to Barcelona, Spain. It was our very first cruise ever and my husband and I were both apprehensive before boarding the Explorer.
Click on any photo in the article to enlarge and see a slide show.
As we crossed the gangway, we were greeted with a glass of Champagne and our worries started to evaporate. How could we have had concerns when we would be cruising on what is called “the most luxurious cruise ship ever built”. The beautifully designed atrium is stunning with its curved grand staircase and towering chandelier.
We were told that all the 375 suites were ready and our luggage would be outside our door within a few minutes. Pointed in the right direction, champagne glass in hand, we were off to see our quarters for the next 12 days.
We were more than pleased with our stylishly decorated Superior Suite with a king size bed. It was midship on deck 8 with 332 sq. ft. and an additional 132 sq. ft. balcony, wonderfully large. It is only one category up from the Veranda Suites which are the smallest on board at 307 sq. ft with a 88 sq. ft. balcony. I checked out the walk in closet as well as the bathroom. Lots of room in both, we were really liking the Explorer.
If by chance you need more room, there is always the Regent Suite at 4,443 sq. ft. with 2 bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths, 3 walk in closets, a private spa and if you play the piano, you will love the spacious living room with a custom Steinway.
After our welcoming reception and getting settled in our room, we were off to check out the rest of the ship. We soon found out that every moment you are on board the Explorer, there is something to keep you entertained.
The Library is a great place to visit. You can grab a book to take back to your room, check something on the computer about your next port of call or simply read a newspaper. For something a little more social, there is the Card Room where you can meet up with other guests for a bridge game. Speaking of cards, you might want to try to see if Lady Lucky is with you in the Casino.
The Observation Lounge is forward on the ship and has floor to ceiling windows to enjoy the wonderful views as you sail out of port each afternoon. It is where we went to unwind after a long day of touring. Tea time is here with rolling carts filled with scones and sandwiches being offered and there is a large table loaded with different pastries and sweets every day. We played Trivia each day during tea time, had before dinner cocktails as we listened to musicians and sometimes went back later for an after dinner drink.
This was not the only lounge, there are several others including the Explorer Lounge and the Meridian Lounge. The three specialty restaurants have lounge areas as well where you could enjoy a pre dinner cocktail, a glass of Champagne or wine.
The lounges have intimate areas for music and dancing but the Constellation Theater is where the main shows are held. The large room seats more than 600 at comfortable cabaret style seats. Little tables with small glass lamps are perfect for holding your after dinner cocktail while watching a performance. The shows feature a very talented group of singers and dancers who we got to know over the course of our cruise. They performed to packed audiences and we thought each show was terrific.
If all the walking you do on your tours isn’t enough, there is a jogging track, tennis, pickle ball and bocce courts, shuffleboard, golf cages and putting greens. Whew, I’m tired just thinking about all you can do.
For something less strenuous, there are two boutiques for recreational shopping. As you enter, you will be offered a glass of Champagne to sip while you see what goodies you might not be able to live without. Perhaps spend some of your cruise credits that might have been given to you by your travel agent when you booked your trip. Another place to spend those credits is at the Canyon Ranch Spa Club where you can indulge in a wonderful calming treatment.
Cruises are known for their food and what we liked about the Explorer was that you can dine whenever, wherever and with whomever you choose at any of the restaurants and with eight restaurants, you have plenty of choices. There are three specialty restaurants, Chartreuse, Pacific Rim, and Prime 7 as well as Compass Rose, La Veranda, Sette Mari, The Pool Grill and The Cafe. For our evening meals, we had reservations for a night in each of the specialty restaurants and on the other nights we ate at either Sette Mari or the Compass Rose, which is the main dining room. Needless to say, we had a lot of delicious food. More about the food in a future article.
If you know me, you know that I spend months planning our trips to Europe. Planning this cruise was just the same, I checked out numerous cruise lines before choosing Regent. My husband basically agreed to go on this trip to please me, telling his friends “this will be our first and last cruise“. After 12 days on the Explorer, we all knew that would never happen. It is not surprising that before we got off the ship, we gave a deposit for another cruise sometime in the next two years. Perhaps one day, I’ll meet one of you on a cruise.
****
Since I’ve never been on another cruise, I can’t say whether the Explorer is “the most luxurious cruise ship ever built“. What I can say positively is that it was far above anything we could have imagined. The ship was absolutely beautiful and the service was impeccable. Every member of the crew simply couldn’t do enough for you…all done with a big smile. This was an all-inclusive cruise, the only things that were extra were anything you bought in the boutiques, services at the Canyon Ranch Spa Club or what you wagered in the casino. Business class airfare, all the great wine and premium cocktails, incredible food at the specialty restaurants and our tours were all included.
What the Explorer didn’t have were any long lines anywhere, mediocre food, tiny cabins or an indifferent crew that I read about when researching other cruise lines. While tiring (which was my fault for booking a walking tour in every single port of call), my husband and I loved the Explorer and are looking forward to our next cruise on one of Regent’s cruise ships, the Explorer being on the top of the list.
Before starting a cruise out of Southampton, England, my husband and I took a Whirlwind Tour Of London And The Cotswolds. The 3 night “Legendary London” tour was a pre cruise land package that we purchased before we started our “Glamorous Europe” cruise aboard the Regent Seven Seas Explorer.
Tower Bridge, London
We flew direct from Orlando, Florida to London’s Gatwick Airport where we were met and transferred by private car to the May Fair Hotel in London. After a light lunch in the hotel’s bar, we were given a room, unpacked and rested a bit before an early dinner.
Click on any photo in the article to enlarge and see a slide show.
We spent the evening with friends who are originally from England and happened to be in London for a wedding. We were their guests for dinner at the Ivy Cafe, Marylebone, one of their favorite restaurants in London. The brasserie is quite charming with blue walls lined with antique prints, leather banquettes, marble tile floors and interesting globe lights. Before our friends arrived, we had cocktails and nibbles at the bar which has a wonderful antique pewter top.
I ordered a delicious halibut special and my husband had their classic shepherd’s pie, which he said was great. It was a wonderful introduction to London’s popular dining scene.
The next morning after breakfast, a motor coach and guide met us along with 20 other guests for a full day of sightseeing. We drove along the Thames River, over the Westminster Bridge with a view of the London Eye and passed by Parliament and Big Ben. Big Ben, one of London’s most famous landmarks, is almost unrecognizable as it is covered with scaffolding with the exception of its face. We were told it will be that way at least until 2021.
We then drove down Whitehall past Horse Guard Arch, the main entrance to St. Jame’s Palace and Buckingham Palace. We left the coach and walked through Admiralty Arch to watch the Changing of the Queen’s Life Guards at the Horse Guard Parade. This is also where the Trooping the Color takes place to commemorate the Queen’s Birthday.
What a sight it is to see the Queen’s Household Cavalry lined up in their uniforms with their breastplates shining in the sun. The Life Guards wear red tunics and light plumes on their helmets and the Blues and Royals wear blue tunics and red plumes.
We continued on to Trafalgar Square with Nelson’s Column at the center. Around the square is The National Gallery and St Martin in the Fields Church.
Afterwards, we walked along The Mall with St. James’ Park and 10 Downing Street on one side and Green Park and Piccadilly on the other. We continued past Clarence House to Buckingham Palace. The Queen wasn’t in residence, instead she was spending time at Windsor Palace.
Lunch was at the Audley Pub, a three story traditional Victorian pub in the heart of Mayfair. Slightly outside of the tourist area, it attracts locals and celebrities such as Sean Connery, Hugh Grant, Michelle Obama and Prince Charles. The inside has a feel of a gentlemen’s club with original chandeliers, dark wood paneling and a black and white tiled floor. What did we eat… hand battered fried cod, chips and mushy peas along with a pint, but of course.
After lunch, it was back on the bus for more sightseeing. We crossed the famous Tower Bridge for our last visit of the day, the Tower of London. Passing through the huge stone walls is like stepping back in time. Inside, rows of brick and Tudor houses line the old walls on what’s called Mint Street making you realize that the Tower is really a small village, not just one structure but a complex of buildings started during the time of William the Conqueror.
It was late afternoon so we decided to go see the Crown Jewels first. The collection is breathtakingly beautiful. As we come out, we happened upon one of the pampered ravens. There is legend that should the ravens leave the Tower, both it and the kingdom will fall so you can be sure that the seven ravens kept there are well taken care of.
After a full day of touring, it was back to our hotel. Still feeling jet lagged, we decided to eat at our hotel’s May Fair Kitchen and that was a very good decision. The restaurant specializes in small plates of Spanish,Italian,Peruvian and Mexican dishes.
On our third day, the coach picked us up at 8:00 A.M. as we were heading to the Cotswolds. We drove about an hour and a half through gentle rolling countryside dotted with picturesque villages and small towns with charming buildings of honey colored stone. The Cotswolds also has its share of stately homes and our first stop was Blenheim Palace near Oxford.
It is the home of the 12th Duke and Duchess of Marlborough and was the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. An interesting note…it’s the only non royal house in England to hold the title palace. We toured the grounds then visited the staterooms filled with treasures collected over three hundred years. There was an exhibition at the time of our visit by French avant-garde artist Yves Klein . His electric blue artwork was placed among the baroque interior…I felt a strange combination.
Afterwards, we drove to the small village of Burford for lunch at the Lamb Inn which was on Sheep Street. The pretty village is known as the “Gateway to the Cotswolds”. Later we visited Bourton on the Water, another picture perfect little village, before heading back to London.
**
What I found most interesting about this tour was how the historic past and the contemporary present day are mixed together throughout London and the countryside.
***
This was the first time that my husband and I have joined a tour group and it has its pros and cons. As to the positives, from the moment we were met at the airport, we didn’t have to worry about handling our luggage and that is a big plus. It was a fast paced three days, exhausting at times but we certainly saw and learned a lot. We had two fantastic and knowledgeable guides during our tours (one guide is a professional actress as well and she brought history to life in the most interesting way).
Most everyone I asked, including myself, thought our five star hotel was impersonal and probably wouldn’t stay there again if we returned to London on our own. We would have enjoyed having choices for our included meals but we understood that can be difficult on a tour with time restraints. Since we were always on the move, either in the bus or walking, it was difficult taking good photos. Most of all, the majority of us would have enjoyed a little more free time at our stops.
I hope you enjoyed this introduction to what was a wonderful three week tour of Europe. While longer than most of my writings, I wanted you to have an idea of what a tour of London and the Cotswolds is like if you want to partake in a tour yourself.
