Notes to self about Lutterloh Patterns

I've already read through the entire thread about Lutterloh on Pattern Review, and I'm actually reading through it a second time and taking a few notes for myself.  Luckily I have enough experience with patterns to understand what I've been doing so far, but I'm sure I'll be stumped at some point.

I was reading on the PR thread about the grainline and one person mentioned how she couldn't "establish" it and someone else mentioned copying the grainline from the little pattern to the drawn off pattern.

My "note to self"...that is wrong.  The grainline is drawn on the pattern, but you don't establish it until you've drawn off the pattern.  For example, the grainline of a back pattern piece will always be going straight down the center back, but the little drawing doesn't know if your bust starts at 100 and hips go to 120, or if it is 85 cm and hips 110.  That back grainline will appear different than the little yellow lutterloh pattern.  And the grainline of a front piece is parallel to the center front, which is marked on the pattern.

I did a little googling to verify the sleeve grainline.  Here's a perfect description of how to find it on the Fashion Incubator - How to find grainline on a sleeve.

I really see where people can get confused by these patterns, thinking it "should look" like the little yellow drawing, but no, it shouldn't at all, it should look like whatever it will look like based on your numbers.

I whipped up a little sweatshirt yesterday, finished it up today.  It's super cozy.  I have a long way to go to understand some of the fit, it's a little too large, but it's also a sweatshirt.  I think I'll redraw it a little smaller and compare the pattern.  I'd like to make it again.

Final Entry - Pattern Review Sewing Bee

Wowzer, was that ever a ride.  I really had fun working on my entries, and I'm also happy to be finished.  My final projects is this pair of pants using the new Lutterloh kit I received just a week ago. I can't wait to start another project using it.

Link to Picasa Web Album

Review on PR website

The Mad Seamstress

I can see my direction has changed since my last post in.....September?  I'm not a very good blogger. That is so me though, my mind always goes for a spin in another direction. I can't do all the things I want to do or have ideas for, etc.

But I should blog a bit, so I'm thinking I'll work on that before the end of the year, change things up, and freshen up the blog and actually use it.

I've been busy sewing for the Pattern Review Sewing Bee, having just finished up Round 3, though we won't know who passes on to Round 4 until this weekend.  It's been so much fun and so very motivating.

Challenge 1 was an A-line Skirt

Challenge 2 was reconstructing from men's buttondown shirts.

Challenge 3 was a knit dress from 2 fabrics (pattern given to us.)

Wish me luck as I do hope to pass on to the next round.

A new focus

I'm feeling slightly disillusioned, let me explain.  First of all, yes, I've been sewing.  I love sewing and it's my entertainment.  The other day I went thrifting and I bought loads of clothes, all nice and new and in my colors (a later post to come about that) and I spent a whopping $38.  That's what I'd spend on one new pair of slacks, and buying fabric for a nice pair of slacks is not much different.

I do need new bras as I've gained weight again, so my new focus is going to be bras again.  I really want to compare different patterns and shapes and such.

Reason this came to mind is that I recently downloaded a new bra pattern, took my measurements (as I expected) and made up my bra.  Now, to be honest, the last time I did that with a KwikSew pattern, it fit perfectly, obviously something that rarely happens.  But I did think I'd be close enough in size for some minor alterations.

Not at all, this bra was so tiny, I was just shocked.  I could tell while making it that the cup wasn't going to fit.

I spent this morning cutting out cups of different sizes, and it made me think about making bra muslins and such, so that's going to be my new focus -- bras and fit and patterns and such.

So of course I found a different pattern to download...so much fun.

More to come.

Vintage Sewing Notion Collage

Talk about a fun project I just did.  I was looking at vintage sewing notions on Pinterest and saw an idea for a collage, and then came up with my own idea.

A few of the notions I already had, and I bought a couple things at a local sewing resale shop.  The frame was one we had, which I spray painted and then dry brushed to make it look old.  You can find instructions all over for how to make a "vintage picture frame."

Isn't it just adorable, and it really didn't cost much to make at all.  And now I have some art for my sewing room.

Lots of sewing lately....and pants for the contest

I really need to do a little posting, but what I think I'll do it just post photos of some of my latest projects, all of which will have reviews on Pattern Review.

These slacks have been submitted for the Pants contest this month.  I would be grateful for any votes.  I used the SureFit Designs pants kit.

I did a couple cardigans from the Silhouette Patterns Twin Set, and used the instructions from one of her webcasts recently.

I made some cute linen capris, also from SureFit designs and did embroidery on the leg.

Cassiope - Shawl

I finished a cute and actually simple shawl this past week.  I know the words "shawl" and "simple" rarely go together, but  this one didn't overly tax me at all.

Here are a  couple photos:

A bit thanks to Jennifer for the skein of yarn.

Dressing Your Truth ~ Think I goofed already

Seriously, I must be a total nutcase.  I jumped off the dock without thinking hard enough, or learning enough.  I just assumed I was a Type 3.  Now I'm wondering why I thought that.  Simple answer is because I couldn't be any of the other Types....and now I'm sure I'm not a Type 3.  I keep watching more DYT videos and the people in them, and I'm just too mild mannered (or so I think) to be Type 3.  I think I'm a Type 2 now.  So before I do anything radical or cause any damage, I'm just going to step back for awhile and take it all in.

I tried clothes on at Macy's and the thrift shop the other day, thinking it would be easy to find some Type 3 clothes.  NOT!!!!

I looked and felt like a fool.  The colors were heavy and pulling me down and it didn't help that nothing fit.  I did put one top on in a pretty soft pine green and it looked great on me color-wise.  Funny thing is, it's the exact same color as the purse I bought a couple weeks ago.  I almost always buy a black purse and this time decided for a little color, just not too much color.  Maybe that's a clue.

So today I put on Type 2 makeup and my favorite comfy top in an animal print but it's blue and dark grey and I felt normal, kind of like myself.

This is not going to be an easy journey, that's all I can say.

I just wish I could be an exciting vibrant woman, and I don't think that is what I truly am.

Dressing Your Truth - Makeup and Hair

I love makeup and I wear makeup.   I do know as I've gotten older I've tried to tone it down.  I read blogs and books and they say to wear neutral matte colors around the eyes, blah blah blah.  I've tried that and it doesn't work and it doesn't make me happy.

I have lots of lots of beautiful sparkly colors from Bare Minerals.  I have eye shadows to last me for the rest of my life (oh, and lots of pretty nail polishes too...but that's another post.)

My goal for makeup is to go through it all, pull out as much of the Type 3 stuff I have and make it a little easier and simpler to go through, and put on.

And yes, I'm going to put the sparkly stuff back on.

My hairstylist is going to be so excited when I tell her to go bolder and more wild.  She's always wanting to put more copper colors in and make it chunky.  She always says it's ME....I tell her to soften it.  Ugh....I'm maybe not the smartest one around.

No photos for this post, nothing exciting to see.

Oh, I did paint my nails today, nice and dark and  rich and red....though they are short chewed off nubbins, they refuse to grow lately.  Spring and Summer should help a lot.

Dressing Your Truth - I'm Going For IT!

I have such a constant struggle with clothes and colors and such.  I have decided to follow the guidelines of the "Dressing Your Truth" system.  I have purchased the program.  I watched the initial videos. I chose my type.  And  now I have absolutely NOTHING to wear.

This is going to be a long journey I think.

I am a definite Type 3, that is something I'm confident in, but have been trying to live as a Type 2 (which I think might be a secondary type for me, I'm not sure, and honestly I don't care right now.)  I'm absolutely not a Type 1, it makes me cringe in horror to think of such a thing, and Type 4 scares me.

One of the lessons said to take a photo of your closet and a photo of yourself right now.  I have lots of photos of myself, I'm not afraid to take a photo of how I look at anytime, yet I do know some are not my best.

As far as the closet goes, eek.  I have the tiniest closet around, it's about 4 feet wide, if even.  The house is big so there's more than enough room for my stuff.  Things will hang in the laundry area, there's an extra closet in my son's room that has extra stuff of mine, and a giant walk-in upstairs for more clothes.

 Most the time, none of what I have at anyone time fits me.  I gain and lose weight so often, and of course when I lose weight, I get rid of the big clothes...then I gain again, and have nothing to wear.  So I find a few things to get me by...which is often from the thrift shop.  I have no problems with the thrift shop, and I also shop at Macy's for my main department store.

Okay, the closet.

I see blacks, greys, muted, blues, some pops of color.  My shoe selection sucks big time.  I have feet that hurt a lot, and I wear my Danskos or Boc style shoes.

I guess the goal is to see the closet change over the next few months.  In a month I'll try to remember to take a new photo of the closet and see where I am.  Hopefully ALL the clothes I'm not currently wearing will be out of it. I won't be able to get rid of it all from the start or I'll be going around naked in public.

So that's it on the clothes front for right now.

Top from Silhouette Patterns, Sweater Set

I really have to learn to buy prettier fabrics.  I'm drawn to bright, wild and colorful, and then I feel like a clown when I wear them.  I promise to work on it.

I did the top from Silhouette Patterns #195, Sweater Set.

I pretty much did a straight size 4, and added 1/2" to each side seam (so a total of 2").  After I was done I realized I had not put the center front on the correct fold line, so the front was 1" too big.  I also ended up taking it in a little from the underarm and the bust.  I obviously made 3/4 sleeves which I prefer.

I'm really happy with how the french dart fits.  I've never made one before and didn't know what to expect.  My first try was wrong, and I tried doing it differently, and that made it worse.  I then went back to the original dart placement, and extended it up higher, about 1.25" inches higher and it was perfect.

I will definitely keep using this pattern, and learn how to use it with other Silhouette Patterns for tops.

Craftsy and Jeans Jacket

I bought a bunch of Craftsy classes a few months ago, and I decided I actually have to do one of the projects.  This is the "Garment Industry Secrets" with Janet Pray class and the jeans jacket from her pattern line.

I've worn it two days in a row, and will wear it tomorrow...not too shabby.

Oh, and I did it all on my new Brother Dreamweaver sewing/embroidery machine to test it out.  It works great.  The top-stitching is amazing.

An Embroidered Jacket

Don't ask how I did it, but the jacket totally doesn't fit.  I'm so stupid at times when I sew and forget to change certain things.  It will fit if/when I ever get skinny again.  It looks awesome though.

It's from Silhouette Patterns, Robyn's Jacket:
http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_1750.htm

I did the embroidery on the two front pieces before cutting out (I chalked the shaped and placed them carefully) and the sleeves were done after sewing the first seam.

The embroidery was from Embroidery Library, and I did it all in black.

The fabric is a lovely wool that I tossed in the machine and dried, 2 times, to felt it a bit.  The bias binding is also the same fabric, and the shoulder pads are covered with the grey wool too.

I would prefer to make lined jackets instead of unlined as  the amount of work is almost the same.

And how do you like my new ironing board cover?  It will definitely make me happy.

Super Exciting - my first digitized item

Okay, so I know it's not that exciting for most people, but for me it was a doozie. I digitized my first embroidery design, using FREE software.

I'm currently working on a quilt, using the embroidery machine to do the quilting.  I kept getting stumped, not finding the size I needed for the blocks I was wanting to use.

With my first attempt coming out this good, I think I might be able to figure this out just fine.

The free software is called SophieSew and there are YouTube tutorials out there that have helped a lot.

Now I just have to learn how to perfect it, but just getting my machine to read it was a big accomplishment and I had to share.

Lovely Ladies Quilt

My first quilt is complete, and I have to admit that the binding is PERFECT.  It's been a long time, but I haven't lost my touch.

I'm not putting closeups here, if you want to see the closeups, they are in the Picasa photo album I use, which I'll link to.  Just click the image I guess.

The "Art Nouveau Ladies" can be found at Embroidery Library.
The dragonflies were from Embroidery Designs (a freebie too)
The quilting patterns were also from Embroidery Library in the Quilt section under feathered quilts.

Just a SneakPeek....

I thought I'd be done with my little quilt top today...oh my, I'm so naive.  But it's pretty much done, it could have been considered done if I hadn't decided to add a few more doodads to it.

So what I have to show right now is a sneak peek at what I've been doing.

You'll have to wait for the final unveiling, but that shouldn't be long now.  Of course I say that before I've attempted to put on a binding.  Now...how many years has that been???

The concept of quilting ~ I'm not lost

Once upon a time, in the far far past, I used to quilt.  I loved quilting....it was what I did....it was my escape.  Then my husband died, and I was lost, and I never quilted again.  That's the short and sweet (not so sweet) story, and that was ages ago, over 15 years actually.  This is the last quilt I did:

This is not a good photo at all.  I took this before I even had a digital camera, so there is no detail at all.  Let me describe it, because all sewers/quilters can relate to what was actually involved.

Many of the blue sky fabrics were actually dyed by hand, by me.  The eagle is all done as hand applique, I used some awesome fabrics to get the tonal shades.

And I just realized in this photo you are missing all the mountains and lakes. I'll have to take a new photo.

It is also all quilted by hand.  Most of my quilts were hand quilted, though I was quite good at machine quilting...or what was considered "good" at that time.

Today I'm blown away by the quality of work out there, but it is what it is.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So you might be wondering what I'm even posting about...ha ha..this new embroidery machine has got my creative wheels spinning again.

Like I said, I haven't quilted since my husband died, and that was in 1998, and that quilt above, was for him. So now what, I'm kind of interested in quilting on my new embroidery machine.  I have a small quilt top already done, but I'm not ready to show it yet as it hasn't been finished.  And now I have to find patterns. It's actually a lot easier to just plan hand quilting designs than working with what's already out there in machine embroidery designs, but I guess that's not the point now, is it?

So hopefully I'll be able to share a new project in a few days.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Garment sewing has kind of faded away for now.  I do have plans on working on a new jacket out of a felted wool (it's in the machine right now) and I'd like to put some embroidery on it too...go figure.

So stay tuned.

Max's jacket is done, but the closure is wrong

I keep hoping I'll eventually get better at this "sewing thing."  My jacket is done and fits well, but the closure is too small and boring.  Plus, it would fit better if it would overlap (on other words, the jacket is a little bit big.)

I see what I come up with in the next few days and then photograph it on me.  But here it is for now.

Metro Embroidery Thread....look at all the pretty colors

Like others new to embroidery, I'm totally overwhelmed, but I want EVERYTHING.  I did some reading on thread and everything I read said Brothers are not very picky on thread.  I also read positive things about Metro Embroidery thread so I took a gamble and bought a big old box of it.

It came today and I went to work on sorting and organizing.  Right now it's still all sitting on my cutting table, I need little drawers to put it all in to.  Guess I'll go shopping this weekend.

This is where I was overwhelmed.  First I sort of organized them by color, but I finally decided it would be easier to just do them based on numbers and the charts.

Here they are sorted based on the printed out charts.  I also want to print out charts from the other companies to compare with.  There are lots of online conversion programs to play with too.  I was using the one from Metro Embroidery to start.

I did my first embroidery with these threads and it turned out great.  Not a single break or snag or nuttin'.

This is my very professional set up for thread and the conversion numbers for the next sample I'm working on.

This is not an "official" review as of yet, since I'm just starting, but so far I'm pleased.  For the price it did a great job.  I really don't have anything to compare to yet.  I'm sure I'll eventually start collecting thread from other companies too.  Maybe in a couple months I'll do my official review.

My first embroidery project ~ Two-sided pillow

Well, this was a fun little project.  I only have a few colors of thread right now, and I wanted to go "big" so I found the two larger images on the machine and went for it.  Then I sewed them together to make a two-sided pillow.  I think it's a wonderful idea and I think I'll be doing more two-sided pillows in the future.

My new machine ~ Brother Dreamweaver XE Innovis-is VM6200D

Phew, is that name long or what?  I'm thinking of just calling it the monster.  It totally dwarfs my regular machine, a Pfaff Expression 3.0, which is sitting right next to it.  I feel a little sorry for my Pfaff right now, I know it's having a bit of a "size" complex.  I will have to make sure it doesn't feel left out.

Okay, so no review or anything like that yet, I just got it today.  Somehow or other I lugged it upstairs, unpacked it, and then when I saw the manual, I almost fainted.  I'm not joking, the manual is 3/4" thick.  And that's not including the quick start guide and the accessory guide, etc.  And I kept unpacking part after part.

Wow, it's loaded.

Here's the first photo, set up on my sewing table, which really needs some cleaning up now.

I did start with just the sewing functions, went through the bobbin winding and threading and such.  The automatic thread just blew my mind.  I stitched through some basic stitches and a few others....but quickly left that for the embroidery portion.

It wasn't hard to figure out at all, and here is the very first motif I stitched up.  I only have a few colors of thread to start.  I've pretty much filled up that first 5x7 hoop with different preloaded designs.  And now I'm definitely read to shop for thread and such, and patterns of course.

A Zillion Stitches

I'll keep this short and sweet.  I think I stitched out a zillion stitches today.

My sewing machine is a Pfaff Expression 3.0 and I can finally say that I've stitched every programmed pattern.

There is still more to work on, but look at some of the cute things I can do:

The turtles are adorable, and the elephants are kind of fun too.  And cars and squigglies and all sorts of fun stuff.

Penny won it!

How cool is that?  There's a good reason to enter contests on Pattern Review, you can win some amazing things.  So far I've only won 2nd place (twice) and have won a really nice iron (which I didn't need, but oh well) and a pattern of my choice.  This time for 1st place I won a $100 gift certificate from Sawyer Brown Fabrics.

I'm kind of doing a few things at the same time.  I'm on my 3rd project in a SWAP, and working on Max's Jacket by Silhouette patterns.  I'm really trying to do it Peggy's way, and I've made a lot of mistakes along the way, and keep starting over.  But I'm wanting to learn, hence the do-overs, though Peggy says not to make a bunch of muslins.  I think I finally have a working muslin done correctly....almost that is, I still have a slight neck issue to deal with.

Some how or other the idea of an embroidery machine popped right in to my head and now it won't go away.  I was looking at jackets online and saw a cute denim one with embroidery on it, totally my style.  Of course now I want a a machine, and I want it NOW....but I've been sick these past few days and not able to do any test drives, only window shopping online.

I also told myself that I was going to learn how to use my machines to their maximum capacity.  I think I'll start today (since I'm on hold with the jacket.)  I want to stitch out every stitch on my sewing machine, and learn some of the other functions. I have a Pfaff Expression 3.0 which I love, but naturally only use the basic functions.  

There are also a lot of things I can do with my Babylock Enlighten which I haven't tried.  I have the entire giant manual that came with it, so after I finish up my sewing machine experiment, I will move on to the serger.

SureFit Designs - Blouse

Phew, completed.

The only thing I did different than my original muslin was that I did not do the single sloped shoulder.  I decided against it.

It fits quite well.  I did extend the front darts all the way in to the bottom hem (the hipline was too large).  The collar took two tries.  I like the style, but I didn't do the right application.  It's fine though.  The sleeves are still bunchy in the back, but I still don't know how to fix that.  At least the front sleeve is smooth.  The sleeves could be narrower, but I am actually able to move in this blouse.

The darts hit in the right place and it doesn't ride funky.  I did a little slit in the sleeve hem, but you can't really see it in the photos.

Bodice muslin is complete - now on to the real thing

I did a new adjustment today (once again, no photos yet) and made a larger sleeve.  My bodice is basically a 40" C cup bust, but I made a 44 sleeve, which is 15 inches at the bicep.  Even though the size that is for my bust fit by ease, it just was too tight.

I seriously was lying in bed this morning wondering why I hadn't thought to use Peggy Sager's idea of a larger sleeve and larger armscye in a bodice that fits.  I couldn't wait to get home from work to figure this out.

I was able to redraw on the muslin I had made, cut out new sleeves (short ones) and the fit was great!

So this weekend I will attempt my first SureFit Designs top using the muslin I created.  My plan is to make a tunic length top with a convertible collar (still need to draft) and 3/4 sleeves with some sort of hem option (no clue here yet.)

I think the designing is harder than the fitting.  Since I just did the convertible collar on the Ottobre blouse (the sheer blue one) it's still fresh in my mind.

Or I can do the blouse #600 from Silhouette Patterns, which actually would be easier as it has no facings.  I think that is my plan.  I can save the separate collar stand for a later date.

Wish me luck, I hope to have photos to share soon.

~~~~

Alterations to the muslin include the following:
rounded upper back ~3/4"
forward neck (removed about 1/2" from the front neckline)
Sloped right shoulder ~ 3/8"
Forward Shoulders (both) ~ 5/8"
Shorten mid back length and added to back hem.
Size 44 sleeve in size 40 bodice (used size 44 armscye)

SureFit bodice

No photos today, just some ramblings.

A while back I was working on fitting a good bodice for myself, but got sidetracked as I seem to have more fitting issues than I want to deal with.  Then I was watching the Silhouette Pattern webcasts, and Peggy says just make her pattern.

Which I did, but it still was a lot of work.

I'm back to working on my sloper bodice which I drafter from my SureFit Designs kit.

I swear, every single day my bust or waist or hips is a different measurement (okay, so I've put on a few pounds again...I'll admit it).

I drafted for a 40 bust, 35 waist (ouch) and 40 hips and C cup. I drew out the bodice and some of the hip using the Dress kit.

Made up my muslin and got to work on the fitting alterations.

My first adjustment is a rounded back, about 3/4-1" (I don't remember exactly) but that keeps me from choking and brings the shoulder a bit forward.

But now my back is a bit too long, so I take out about 3/4" in the mid back (long dart across) and now it fits great.

I put in the sleeves but things are all wonky, take out the sleeves.

With some more work and experimentation I come up with a 3/8" sloped shoulder on the right shoulder only, then 5/8" forward shoulder on both.

That seems pretty good, so I work this out on the sleeve too, shaving off extra fabric on the back sleeve.

Funny thing is, these are all alterations I do regularly, just fudging as I go.

I drew this all out on my paper pattern, even separate left/right fronts and backs.

Tomorrow I'll make up a new muslin, so wish me all the best.

Cute top ~ New Look 6817 OOP

Super duper cute top, I can't wait to make it again.  Sorry I'm not modeling it myself (same with the other tops lately, but it's so cold outside.)

I got this pattern at a resale shop in town and I LOVE it!!!  I did the view on the bottom right.  It has a seam in the back, and then two gathered sections.  One higher than the other on the different sides.  I cut a straight size 16 and my fitting issues were that I need to allow myself a bit more in the waistline, and take some out of the upper back.  The sleeves were flattened a bit in the back.  The upper chest could have been a smidge smaller, but that's so minute.  Oh yea, I drafted the neckline to be 3/4" closer on each side rather than such a wide boat neck.  That worked great, and I did end up raising the shoulder seams (shortened the sleeve portion.)

So there is some work I need to do on the pattern, but I love how it looks.

This is the 2nd top from my SWAP.  For some reason I thought I had a larger piece of fabric, but the wrap top wasn't going to fit so I had to come up with an alternate plan.  I'm really happy with this one.