severdhed

I have multiple steam games on mine, but i'm not using steam OS. I use the MaLa frontend launcher for my emulators. You can have a folder full of batch files that launch PC games and MaLa will treat them like roms. I use this to launch several steam games, including:Mortal Kombat 9Mortal Kombat 10Street Fighter iVInjustice: Gods among usShovel Knightpacman championship editionand a few others i can't think of right now.

I have no idea how much this thing cost me to build. A lot of the components were reused from previous projects, and I didn't really keep track of it. I figured I don't have to lie to my wife about how much it costs if I don't know how much it cost!The joysticks were purchased from ultimate.com ( j-stik) along with the ipac4 keyboard interface.The buttons, t-molding and trackball were purchased from groovyganegear.comAs for a router, I would stay away from battery operated tools, the just don't have the power. I used a cheap harbor freight router.

awesome, i like it

There is no reason why you couldn't add the extra buttons, and depending on what you want to play, perhaps you should. If you are only using the MAME emulator, there are no 4 player games that require more than 4 buttons, but there are plenty of 2 player games that require 6. That is why players 1 and 2 are in the center with more buttons. I know that there are some pc games that support 4 players and some of those may require more than 4 buttons, i just don't play any of those on my cabinet. If I were to rebuild this cabinet today, i'd probably make player 1 and 2 have 8 buttons, just for easier compatibility with some STEAM games. I'm not sure i'd bother adding more to players 3 and 4 unless there was a specific game i wanted to play that needed them.

awesome. I've been tempted to pick up some of those ultimarc guns for a while now. Nice build.

looks great

The first line of my instructions say this this a simple Elastic grid organizer. Then in step 1, I listed the materials needed... the first one listed was 1" wide elastic...I don't know how to be any more clear about it. I never mentioned Velcro anywhere. perhaps before criticizing my instructions, you should have read them.

the flashlight is actually the bright blue thing on the right side on the back, next to the fidget spinner. it is an Ultratac K18 and it is incredibly bright for its size (360 lumens)

that is not a pen. the gray object at the bottom that looks like a pen is actually a Kershaw tx-tool precision screwdriver. I added a few extra bits from a set I got at harbor freight. https://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/gear/gear/tx-toolmy pen is actually one of those Sharpie minis. i took it apart and inserted a modified pass of a bic pen. the other is an actual Sharpie marker.

it took me about a month from the time I cut the first board until I considered it complete. I didn't have a ton of time to work on it though. I had 3 small children at the time and my wife was pregnant. so time was hard to come by.

that turned out really nice, good job. I'm glad to be able to provide some inspiration

looks great. how is the game performance on the raspberry pi?

brilliant

this is polyethylene pipe. it is flexible and relatively soft. I'd never be able to cut pvc like this with a knife blade.

The slot is more for the expansion of the pipe to fit the light than it is for the belt clip. If you have ever used a belt clip on a light, you would know that they don't work very well for securing the light to your belt. I could remove the clips, but on my larger Nebo RC light, the pocket clip works well to prevent the side mounted switch from being accidentally activated. Plus this way the clip is still there if you want to clip it on your hat

havent really updated anything other than software. It is holding up very well. Thanks for the kind words.

not sure which angles you are talking about.

i used a mayflash brand adapter....https://www.amazon.com/SNES-Controller-Adapter-PC-USB/dp/B002IXZ5DE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1488562611&sr=8-9&keywords=snes+usb

thanksI had been playing with emulators for years before opting to build this cabinet, so I was already very familiar with them. (this is my 5th mame cabinet). i ended up using mame 64bit with the MaLa front end. the PC runs windows 7 pro. i also run various pc games on this cabinet (mortal kombat 9, shovel knight, etc)the best thing i can tell you is to go the BYOAC forums. they are a great resource. tons of examples and lots of helpful people.http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/

most of them do not matter at all. i ended up getting a cheap pack of bits from harbor freight that included a straight bit and a V bit.http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-m2-hss-router-bit-set-43695.htmlas for the flush trim bit, i'd go with a thin one so it easily fits in the button holes, i think mine is similar to this..http://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-3-8-in-Carbide-Tipped-Laminate-Flush-Trimming-Bit/50226935

the plexiglass is very secure...it does not move at all. you have to remember that every one of those buttons goes down through the top of the plexi and fastens on the back with a nut...they are essentiallyv 27 large plastic bolts holding the plexi down to the mdf..as for the edges, the T Molding completely covers the edges of the plexi. The slot is offset so that the top of the T molding sits at the top of the plexiglass. the bottom of th MDF is beveled so it doesn't look ridiculous

that was challenging. I ended up tightly wrapping the barrel in a long strip of foam/rubber shelf liner until it was about 1.5" in diameter. Then i simply gripped it in my left hand tightly while using the drill with my right hand with a 1/2" spade bit.https://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-1...

yeah, it works great with cyclone shock. I just didn't make an instructable for that one. I'm not sure the barrel length is exactly the same, but you can easily adjust the length of the pipe to an appropriate size. I also did the same for the mega big shock.

Thanks.I don't really have a guide for how i did the controls, however if you look at the picture, it is quite simple. i disconnected the ribbon cable that goes from the SNES controller port board to the main board. Each controller port has 7 pins. I opened up the dual SNES to usb adapter i bought on amazon, and basically just soldered a wire from pin 1 on the adapter to pin1 on the original controller port, then just did this with the rest of them.