Downunder35m

When it started Skype was considered to be a "threat" and with more users.Slowly the platform became more user friendly and with more features.All was fine and good until the guys decided to make profit and retire.Suddenly the ads were exploding in mumbers and their content , well, let's say odd...With every new "feature" the amount of spam sent to your Email account became more.And as with every "social media" app, the fakes outnumber the real people there.I can register a FB account with no details at all, no real info given just to spam on other people.And in return a new user can enjoy up to 200 spam mails a week.Now add a great list of friends and you spend half of your day sorting the spam out.All because of what/ to accomplish what???FB is nothing mo...

When it started Skype was considered to be a "threat" and with more users.Slowly the platform became more user friendly and with more features.All was fine and good until the guys decided to make profit and retire.Suddenly the ads were exploding in mumbers and their content , well, let's say odd...With every new "feature" the amount of spam sent to your Email account became more.And as with every "social media" app, the fakes outnumber the real people there.I can register a FB account with no details at all, no real info given just to spam on other people.And in return a new user can enjoy up to 200 spam mails a week.Now add a great list of friends and you spend half of your day sorting the spam out.All because of what/ to accomplish what???FB is nothing more than a spam platform with unbearable ads that has the added benefit that you might be able to contact people you know.The only one really using this app are your bosses to check on you so they can fire you for misconduct ROFL

There is a reason I refuse to use it, you found it.Spam at a flood level is another.Lack of security and no rights to your own content and profile makes it complete.IMHO the service should be banned.

Thinking in the same direction here but have to confess that the standard editor loves to produce this mess if you paste from the wrong source.One more reason why I prefer Notepad++

You can use a diamond file or sharpening block on the running motor to slightly remove material.You should heat the chuck (dismantled and only the part for the motor) to around 250°C and put the motor in the freezer.They should then be matched to just fit together.Once the temps equal out the chuck will be set in place for good.Same way a train gets new "tyres"...

You can use a RGB strip driver module.They are dirt cheap and come with a IR remote on Ebay.These provide a max output of 12V as they are meant for this voltage.Most can handle up to 2A per channel, so more than what you need.All YOU need as to add a suitable resistor to each color of your LED.The datasheet should tell you the pricese values for each color and you can use an online LED calculator (or your own) to get the right resistor value for 12V.Can't go much cheaper and easier....

In case you struggle with the math:Assuming all colors have the same max then a 36 Ohm resistor with 5W should keep you safe.

I don't know the box you have, so I can only recommend to flash the firmware that is meant for your system.You might need to use one for the USB or SD burn tool though if it is an Amlogic box.

Zaphod Beeblebrox will certainly have one or two to spare but you might have to drink a few pan galactic gargle blasters with him...If you have the time to read in the arduino playground then of course you could use a keypad, display and an arduino to create your own calculator.Apart from the normal functions just add an extra call for a devicsion by zero to show whatever you want.Don't forget your towel...

A sidecar construction usuallyonly has three wheels with one for steering.How do you want to keep it stable with two turning wheels?You change the center of the circle and the fulcrum point depending on the steering position...I don' see it working...On a normal sidecar the wheel is positioned to give maximum support while turning to the side the sidecar is mounted. Too far in the front and the backwheel lifts, too far in the back and the same happens, both mean a lot of damage to the bike and people involved.Also helps to know the weight distribution between front and rear wheel.

Details make so such a difference... ;)I experimented with similar things when I was less than half my age and skateboarding was just becoming a thing.When I spread the idea of a "shopping basket" attached to the baord some had their usual fun while others started thinking with me.We never got the design to a fully working stage due to some problems.I will list them so you can avoid them:1. Fixed hinge...You don't want a rock solid attachment for your pivot mechanism.When you steer the board a fixed pivot point will cause very uneven steering.Our most successful connection was made with an air hose connector so it can twist that was mounted to a ring nut to allow for sideways movement as well as some up and down for the pivot.Getting two springs either side to work correctly t...

Details make so such a difference... ;)I experimented with similar things when I was less than half my age and skateboarding was just becoming a thing.When I spread the idea of a "shopping basket" attached to the baord some had their usual fun while others started thinking with me.We never got the design to a fully working stage due to some problems.I will list them so you can avoid them:1. Fixed hinge...You don't want a rock solid attachment for your pivot mechanism.When you steer the board a fixed pivot point will cause very uneven steering.Our most successful connection was made with an air hose connector so it can twist that was mounted to a ring nut to allow for sideways movement as well as some up and down for the pivot.Getting two springs either side to work correctly to stablise it all was what killed the mood.But mind you, we were very young and only had the most basic tools available...2. Load swing...If the board ever started shaking due to too high speeds, worn rubbers or whatever then the attached board often caused fatal instabilities.You want to create your pivot mechanism so it allows for a certain amount of freedom for your board.3. Vibrations...This was our actual problem back in the day.With really good connections everywhere and allnice and solid the laminated sections of the board were under too much stress.Sp only way out would have been to use a mounting plate right over the back axle but that would have made the board useless for any fun use.On a long board you certainly have more options an with modern glues it would even be possible to avoid drilling holes into the board.If you can tolerate it than I still think the back axle is the best connection point.And nothing against a sidecar but I think you find in the end that a longer connection between board and load and the load behind you makes life easier.

Did you try posting in that Instructable or contacting th author?

Again just my opinion but I think the respect side of things was violated by you.I am not against sellng thing here, especially not if they as good looking as yours.But I do think that registering here with the sole purpose of selling things is not right.See it this way:Unlike Ebay there is no buyer protection here.Noone knows you here, noone even has your real details to confirm your identity.This means your "reputation" is below zero.How is anyone supposed to know that you are genuine or that they actually receive what they pay for?If you want to good then provide a bunch of nice pics here but offer a link for the item on a secure platform, like Ebay or whatever suits in your region.With an Instructable from you how the mask was made/customised so everyone can do it or at le...

Again just my opinion but I think the respect side of things was violated by you.I am not against sellng thing here, especially not if they as good looking as yours.But I do think that registering here with the sole purpose of selling things is not right.See it this way:Unlike Ebay there is no buyer protection here.Noone knows you here, noone even has your real details to confirm your identity.This means your "reputation" is below zero.How is anyone supposed to know that you are genuine or that they actually receive what they pay for?If you want to good then provide a bunch of nice pics here but offer a link for the item on a secure platform, like Ebay or whatever suits in your region.With an Instructable from you how the mask was made/customised so everyone can do it or at least some meaningful activity in your profile I would see it differently.The way it is now I am just trying to protect the members here and I am sure you can agree on that bit ;)

You might want to read up on the WiFi stuff a bit.I mean little things like IP configuration, port forwarding, DNS and that stuff.If you tell me how someone is able to get into your WiFi using the IP 255.255.255.255 then I will tell you how to prevent it.

I think using this site as a sales platform is not the right way.It is for members but IMHO not so that people only create a sales account here.

I think using this site as a sales platform is not the right way.It is for members but IMHO not so that people only create a sales account here.

Arduino, ultrasonic or laser sensors, sound module, speaker and the required code....I would start n the Arduino playground with the many examples for the basic components, then combine what is needed and fill in the missing code bits.

LOL Good one.

Your box is in the stock bootloader mode.Ususally sign that either an incompatible firmware was installed, the partitions are corrupt or the build in memory is faulty.

I did something similar a few years back but I found that the legs have much more stability if they sit inside the frame rather then on the outside to form the corner.But still very impressed by how you deal with the limitations you face !

I like it!!Not a fancy blade, not a fancy hande but I think that makes it look even better.Well done!

I the industry timer relays are still a quite common thing, both in normal and "latching" versions.You provide power and on a latching relay the timer runs to finnish once activated.The normal type only runs for as long as the input is active, so once the input is off the relay stays off even if the timer runs out.Of course you also get variations for every possible scenario in between..If you go for a 12 or 24V version of te relay thy you might be able t use the reed contacts you have otherwise you need a real switch, like a microswitch with a long lever mounted on the door frame.

I think I already suggested it in my engraving Ible but anyway:I noticed the CO2 lasers tend to vaporise rather than just burn.This causes a slight layer of ash, which in a good system is blow off right away.The remainin darkening is only from the resin content in the wood.And as you ertainly noticed the wood areas with more resin go a bit darker, same for deep etches in one go but never black or grey.I found a workaround for more contast by using sodium silicate (crystal cat litter) dissolved in water.If applied onto tewood and left to fully dry the etching will allow for shades of grey as the burnt silicate makes the ash stick to it.takes a bit of playing around with the concentration, number of coats applied and of course laser power for the final step with the solution applied.To ho...

I think I already suggested it in my engraving Ible but anyway:I noticed the CO2 lasers tend to vaporise rather than just burn.This causes a slight layer of ash, which in a good system is blow off right away.The remainin darkening is only from the resin content in the wood.And as you ertainly noticed the wood areas with more resin go a bit darker, same for deep etches in one go but never black or grey.I found a workaround for more contast by using sodium silicate (crystal cat litter) dissolved in water.If applied onto tewood and left to fully dry the etching will allow for shades of grey as the burnt silicate makes the ash stick to it.takes a bit of playing around with the concentration, number of coats applied and of course laser power for the final step with the solution applied.To hone in:Too much silicate and you get a black crust that is quite hard to clean up.Not enough silicate and you end up with a weak greyish layer that can be brushed off.Right amount of silcte and right laser power and you can get shades of grey but they still need a coat to ptotect them from wearing off.Too little time for too much to do, so maybe you can figure the finetuning and coloring out yourself (otherwise my Ible for it wil never make it to the finnish):By placing some paper or thin cardboard over the engraving area, preferably with a thing layer of glue applied, you can use it to create more smoke.If your etching is not too deep this method will allow you add very dark shades to your engraving in the final step.Some things don't vaporise away in the laser light but rather melt and if thin enough you get the color of that material to slighlty melt into the wood.In case you have no kids I give you another hint to get you experimenting: Crayons ;)Best kept frozen and then sanded off to ppl a thi layer of waxy dust in the area of question, a final engraving with low power will melt it into the wood and also seal the surface.If you find this useful and it gives you more fun then feel free to make an Instructable out f it.I am happy if you mention me or my engraving Ible for the inspiration.

Can you provide some meaningful info about the electronics you use?Like a PDF datasheet or description on the functions and connections/buttons?And why do you want to prevent people from closing the door properly, wouldn't that waste a lot of energy and maybe even spoil the cooled contents?

Neopixels for startes, arduino with enough outputs for your needs and then the programming you need for your stuff.Controlling by app might be not that easy but depends on your coding skills and what you find suitable from the available apps to control Neopixels.If you want to use just standard LED's you have to go into multiplexing, a lot of wiring and the costs saved might be totally wasted by the time spent getting it to work.Why not use a big TV instead?Take a smart one and cast what you need directly from your phone or tablet.50-60"" TV's are available for under $1000 and after the concert you can still use it to watch TV at home...

What is the alarm supposed to do?I would just use a discarded fride thermostat and wire the buzzer to it.....

Only by usig HTML in the editor.This way you can embed images, size them and get the text where you like.Proper editing in this way by easy means is not supported as it seems Instructables prefers everyone sticking to tons of steps and fixed places for images.... :(

It is still 4 wires/pins.The doubling is for the edicated USB controller that is available for the display.If you have too much noise than I suspect your connections and electronics are not up to the task.Maybe not enough shielding, bad driver, not the right circuit at all...

You can get dirt simple models that use a spring loaded flap.Once water flows the flap opens either partially or fully, depending on the flow.The output for those is either none at all or a just a simple reed contact activated with a magnet on the flap or axle.If you need only positive signals: Did you at any stage consider using a simple rectifier between output and your control system?The pulse are proportional in speed to the rate of flow, so the higher the flow the faster the impulses.If you just need a "on-off" signal:Add a rectifier.Use the output from the rectifier to drive a simple delayed transistor switch.The pulse charges a capacitor and once charged the charge should be sufficient to keep the transistor "ON" till the next pulse comes.Depending on the char...

You can get dirt simple models that use a spring loaded flap.Once water flows the flap opens either partially or fully, depending on the flow.The output for those is either none at all or a just a simple reed contact activated with a magnet on the flap or axle.If you need only positive signals: Did you at any stage consider using a simple rectifier between output and your control system?The pulse are proportional in speed to the rate of flow, so the higher the flow the faster the impulses.If you just need a "on-off" signal:Add a rectifier.Use the output from the rectifier to drive a simple delayed transistor switch.The pulse charges a capacitor and once charged the charge should be sufficient to keep the transistor "ON" till the next pulse comes.Depending on the charge time and capacitor size you can control at what minimum flow rate the "switch" stays on without interruptions.Once the flow stops the capacitor will fully discharge and the transistor "turns off".

In theory quite simple...The wireless stuff is only to keep track of usage though, maybe because too many bar tenders drink their own products..The flow control is done with the buttons on the dispensing head.Building something like that with a Nano for example would still require a dedicated measuring system and building that from scratch in small scale...Buy yourself some cheap shot glass dispensers of the manual kind.You will see they use two steel balls for the amount control and flow blocking.Tinker around a bit to get some units "copied" with stuff from the hardware store or similar.Aim for different liquid amounts and to get them as small as possible.Once done add tiny valves to block the ones not in use - that is what the Arduino and the buttons will do once programmed...

In theory quite simple...The wireless stuff is only to keep track of usage though, maybe because too many bar tenders drink their own products..The flow control is done with the buttons on the dispensing head.Building something like that with a Nano for example would still require a dedicated measuring system and building that from scratch in small scale...Buy yourself some cheap shot glass dispensers of the manual kind.You will see they use two steel balls for the amount control and flow blocking.Tinker around a bit to get some units "copied" with stuff from the hardware store or similar.Aim for different liquid amounts and to get them as small as possible.Once done add tiny valves to block the ones not in use - that is what the Arduino and the buttons will do once programmed.Last step is to get it all small enough to actually fit onto a bottle without being bigger than the bottle itself ;)Adding a rotional sensor and a WiFi module then is the easy part.

Simply cover it with a piece of wood like on old tabletop of shelf...Gives some added weight too.

Have you searched Instructables for line following robots?

I don't :(So far I totally missed out on the Snapper season, same for trout by the way.

Let me guess totally outdated Microsoft suite and never heard of a Powerpoint Viewer...Apart from updating there are good freeware solutions available too.And now I hope the new spam filter work as expected....

Get a step down converter or 5V voltage regulator.For the rest you need a microcontroller anyway and they run on 5 or 3.3V.

Ahhh, you just want a taser with a fixed timing.Maybe the local torture store can help?

You mean help you to get untangled from the wires if you need to go the toilet at night? ;)

Better late then never.With rising energy bills I am sure this topic will be useful for years to come.

Impendance, element length for the medium wavelength of the TV channels and some other things need to match up.Just check for yagi antennas in Google and you will find plenty of info on how to make a proper tV antenna.

You could program your own to run on Android or IOS...

All pics that I miss will help :)

There is neither a need for nonsense calculators nor to post the same nonsense twice.I mean: Why not just ask for a lightbulb that draws light in instead of emitting it....Sorry but getting fed up by newbies constantly crewating double postings and never hearing from them again....

Maybe by providing more details and explanations ?Not everyone might know what HMR and HAAS means for example...

Comes down to how much your matrix can handle in terms of current.You might have to use a transistor for each block of 4 LED's.

Bit of a long one to prepare but we loved doing it in our school years, so maybe time to try it again?You pick the phonebook and find some random person living a few streets away.Now gather your friends and start calling this person in a manner like this (and always hang up right after you finnished):"Oh, hello, this is Ally, can you please tell Tom that we come about half an hour later? Thanks you"Next call:"Morning! We just want to confirm that all meat for the BBQ and the drinks will arrive together with the catering service as discussed earlier, have a nice day!"Next...."Just got the message from Tom but he is not answering his mobile phone, the DJ said he will need at least five outlet in the garden for the music and another 6 for the lights. Can you please...

Bit of a long one to prepare but we loved doing it in our school years, so maybe time to try it again?You pick the phonebook and find some random person living a few streets away.Now gather your friends and start calling this person in a manner like this (and always hang up right after you finnished):"Oh, hello, this is Ally, can you please tell Tom that we come about half an hour later? Thanks you"Next call:"Morning! We just want to confirm that all meat for the BBQ and the drinks will arrive together with the catering service as discussed earlier, have a nice day!"Next...."Just got the message from Tom but he is not answering his mobile phone, the DJ said he will need at least five outlet in the garden for the music and another 6 for the lights. Can you please get from from the hardware store? Thanks!"You can continue over the next hour or so and then finally:"Hello, this is Tom, I was wondering if anyone left any messages for me?"Use your imagination for what you get in return for asking ;)

It is your thread, so feel free to clean it up by deleting the posts, I certainly won't mind ;)As for entering contest I partially agree that it would be nice to enter existing Ibles but if I remember correctly then we had this topic ages ago already.Long story short: It is an easy way to get more Instructables published, which is good for ads, users and all.When I started here ages ago I was onlyreading and using some Ibles for my own projects.Later I started to publish some too when I thought they were good enough.But never really with any intentions for contests, if possible I entered them if none was available I just published them.IMHO the whole contest thing needs an overhaul anyway.More transperancy for the judging, checking if an Instructable is actually complete and that it is ...

It is your thread, so feel free to clean it up by deleting the posts, I certainly won't mind ;)As for entering contest I partially agree that it would be nice to enter existing Ibles but if I remember correctly then we had this topic ages ago already.Long story short: It is an easy way to get more Instructables published, which is good for ads, users and all.When I started here ages ago I was onlyreading and using some Ibles for my own projects.Later I started to publish some too when I thought they were good enough.But never really with any intentions for contests, if possible I entered them if none was available I just published them.IMHO the whole contest thing needs an overhaul anyway.More transperancy for the judging, checking if an Instructable is actually complete and that it is possible for anyone to do it themself...I saw contest winners with their Ible being incomplete, perfect Ibles with great content missing out altogether and even a single person winning multiple prices in a single contest.So what really is the purpose of them??? ;)

I had a good time thinking about your problem and how to solve it.Not sure if you like the idea but here is what I came up with:Use Go fund me, Kickstarter or Indiegogo to create a nice project page.Use your ideas and ask for some nice volunteers to join the good cause of developing first prototypes.Predictive text, multiple input options - whatever will suit the individual!Am quite certain an idea like your will take off very quick and might even have good commercial potential.

Not really.You can start from scratch, just with a good idea.Once money comes in (pre-orders, donations...) you start building something.If you already have something "to play with" then use it to show your idea behind it.Maybe an ad in your local papers to seek volunteers to build your prototype could help too.You could be lucky and some tech experts jump on the wagon once it is rolling with a campaing on the funding websites.

If, by making this thread you tried to make a joke or be funny then yes, I missed that point.I did not care about your posted Ibles or the ones waiting to be published because:a) A thread like this only gives people the impression that they should publish something to win a contest.b) I posted my response because I think the topic is not really helping anyone.In case you tried to make a joke here you should have used the offbeat section or random jokes.If you are serious about only posting to win conteststhen please feel free to go ahead as we only know what we might have missed out on for so long once you actually published it ;)

If you only post Instructable to enter/win contests then you are doing something wrong.It is about sharing with other people, showing off what you can do and so on.Contests are just a bonus ;)

You can also use some alcohol (not the drinking kind though) to soak the tip of the pen for a few hours.This will disslove any baked on ink that otherwise might block vital channels.Sometimes these little grooves on the underside are actually connected to the ink reservoir in some sort of a backflow valve.As you use more ink for your drawings than what might run down these channels transport the ink back into the reservoir through the "vacuum" caused by the missing ink.Hard to explain properly but you will see what I mean if it affects you.

It depends on the temp you need and the size/thickness of the material.A heated bed could work for anything up that size if the temp is a fit.Same for heat lamps, heating elements and so on.Your problem will be even heat distribution without causing spots to overheat or cold area.There is a reason why people use an oven for the sheets.One nice alternative, after some tweaking could be to use a laminator.Higher speed and higher temp and it should be possible to push a sheet through that stays hot enough for proper forming.

Back in my days the little electronics magazines had such circuits and others printed.I remember one with four or five LED's to indicate the moisture level.And I do because it included a little modification to use it as a water level sensor as well.Just no clue about the magazine or year it cameit out :(Doesn't anyone of you still collect these goldies in a box somewhere?But in case it helps I found some very nice circuits online.

Depends on how the thing regulates the input, I would play it save and use a voltage regulator or buck converter set to 12V.Add undervoltage protection for your cells and an automatic charger and you got yourself a UPS.

"Keyboards" for the handicapped exitst.Up to the point of controlling a couroe with eye movement and using your breath to set the trigger.Problem is maiking it suit everyone in need and even worse, making it work properly with existing hardware.If you think PC then you need a dedicated driver so the input is used as keys or movement.Of course this would also require some sort of on screen keyboard to be visible to check and confirm what is happening.#Since you are handicapped you already know the downsides of normal keyboards and the one finger search motion to find the right key to press.Now imagine doing the same with only a few buttons and motions - you need to know where you are and what you re doing, so you need some feedback.

You clearly did not bother to read the documentation to your toy, so please do this first and if there are still questions left feel free to ask.

If you want to use such a simple sensor you might as well use your finger - or get a self watering pot until they go in the wild.

Don't see hy this is a bug of this website, nor why why you would need two identical topics.

I guess if after 8 years with no replies someone finds this then it must be a desperate case...Not sure of you know but big format laser printers are relatively cheap now in BW.And if you are after the stuff with chemicals and developers then you might want to consider a full HD projector...

Won't really work like that.But you can substitude the hubs of two mountain bikes together with pedals and chain.That way all riders stay independly although one can pretent to paddle and just be lazy ;)

You can't just run a 3-phase motor on a single phase, simply won't work.You are lucky the breaker saved your motor!Back in the day we used some beefy capacitors to cater for the missing phases but this requires some meaningful calculations and the right type of capacitor, hard to find items these days.Modern option is a so called "motor drive".The use single phase input but provide 3 phase output for smaller motors up to about 1HP, above that these toys get really costly.Good thing about them is that you program how the motor starts, the max speed and thanks to frequenzy control you can even let it run faster than designed.And at low speeds you still get the max possible torque.

They don't like not being used.Plastic dries out, becomes brittle or simply looses some of its properties.Some of these pens also use a tiny sponge inside to limit the ink flow - either at the top end or near the tip connection.If you have one then it is a vital part of the design.I had a bit of luck with my old models by placing them into hot water for a while, fully dismatled of course.This can bring back the plastic back to shape and the temp flexibility allows to assemble it with better sealing then before.If the ink leaks or drops out then it is usually a problem with air getting in somewhere.

You do realise that BT is very limited in range?

Why is this posted in the bugs section and why without any useful info to go along with it?If you expect proper help than please include proper details first.

Not much will change as most of the problems already existed when I started here....

Wireless motorbike comms system maybe?

Not participating to leave more chance for those who are new here, but I love the idea.Promote your Ible count by offering free membership in return.Win win on both sides LOL

If talk about the illegal business of monshine then you are doing something wrong if you need to ask thi question.

I can only give one advise:Chek what version of the IDE is recommended for the shield in question - or for the corresponding liraries.You can load the libraries eiher at runtime through the menu or include them with a call in yor code, the later often causes problms if not everything s fully matched.

And why is this a bug affecting this website?

Thing is that you need to match the required partitions for libreelec/your box.Some builds are available for S905X boxes but they won't work on all due to the above problem.I gave up on trying to make the box compatible to other boxes as parts of the partition structure are not easy to modify on a user level.But if it is of any comfort to you:I did some tests with different SD's and USB readers.My best combo is with the Meenova Dash Micro and a genuine Sandisk rated for 40mb write speed.Turned out to boot faster than the memory used in the box....

Get a cheap remote controlled car or something with some extras like a rocket launcher, lights, siren...Can be found cheap second hand or new online.All you need is in there.

Check Littlediode, from some forums they are recommended for actually having the stock available they list.And if they do get a handful and sell with profit on Ebay ;)

I see you have the same problem most of us have when hunting old parts :(Often with obsolete parts they got a modern day replacement that either does the same or even more.Problem is back in the day noone really cared about datasheets or real documentation about IC's used.You get a number in the parts list and that's it.But since you are not alone with the problem and vinyl is coming back there might be a chance in some dedicated forums.Someone might have found a source and was forced to buy more than he needed or has schematics for using a modern a IC insted.Last but no least you could hunt the schematics and do the digging yourself, but it will take a lot of time and bring more frustration.

Found a German website first:http://www.electronicpool.de/list/index_M_S_MSM583...and one that I think should be in US:http://precisionlogicinc.net/parts/msm-5831-rs

Good luck with your turntable, nothing beats vinyl ;)

I still have it, not set up at the moment though due to other commitments.

IMHO it all depends on your level of skill, budget and need for ongoing support.I did build mine from scratch, so cheapest option and no support at all.If support is important go for something that might cost a few bucks but is know for proper support, like Not_Tasha suggested.There is always the problem of how to get started and for someone with no clue it is good advise to buy something fully assembled and at least half way calibrated.A bit of finetuning is always required after transport but at least it should print right away.Buying a printer that needs (partially) assembly might bring problem that you can't solve without some background knowledge.Upgrades are also well worth to consider.Most budget printers come with only one print head and no way to add another.Being able to use t...

IMHO it all depends on your level of skill, budget and need for ongoing support.I did build mine from scratch, so cheapest option and no support at all.If support is important go for something that might cost a few bucks but is know for proper support, like Not_Tasha suggested.There is always the problem of how to get started and for someone with no clue it is good advise to buy something fully assembled and at least half way calibrated.A bit of finetuning is always required after transport but at least it should print right away.Buying a printer that needs (partially) assembly might bring problem that you can't solve without some background knowledge.Upgrades are also well worth to consider.Most budget printers come with only one print head and no way to add another.Being able to use two allows not only for different colors but also to use cheap support material and the good stuff on the other nozzle for the actual print.

Sorry, don't know them, so could only go by what you did - reviews.

If you leave a reply it should come up to the top again.

Don't get me wrong, being honest is a good thing but it also shows how contests can go wrong...If all your winning entries are different enough then I don't see a problem - if it is that good that you win with it it is deserved.But if it is like you say and all are basically identical then I have to wonder how that got missed during the final stages....

Drinking water is a whole different story, especially on a residential level.Proper multi stage filtration does far more these days than what most people think.If you need more water quality than what comes out of your tap the best option is to check with the supplier first.And of course to compare the quality on a tap close to the meter to rule out problems with the plumbing in the house.Where I am we get the water from three different storage dams, depending on water levels subsidised with "water" from a desalination plant.That means the taste and sometimes the color is slightly different then what you got used to.Many people here use water filter systems at least for the kitchen taps but they also love to totally neglect them.Had cases where they complained the water pressu...

Drinking water is a whole different story, especially on a residential level.Proper multi stage filtration does far more these days than what most people think.If you need more water quality than what comes out of your tap the best option is to check with the supplier first.And of course to compare the quality on a tap close to the meter to rule out problems with the plumbing in the house.Where I am we get the water from three different storage dams, depending on water levels subsidised with "water" from a desalination plant.That means the taste and sometimes the color is slightly different then what you got used to.Many people here use water filter systems at least for the kitchen taps but they also love to totally neglect them.Had cases where they complained the water pressure is down.Turned out the filters were totally blocked and already growing algae inside....

Try Ebay, you often find really old stuff from sellers in Poland, Russia and around.They seem to have the hobby of dismantling old electronics and buyingold stock to sell again.But if you would specify the IC you need someone here might be able to help.

I don't have a solution out of my head but maybe a way to get you going:Since you got it working with one I assume you mean one sensor and one display.If I understand correctly you want to use two 7 segment display to display duble digits.Your code reflects tow displays already, so do you need help getting two segments to work or getting two modules AND two segments to work on one Ardunio?For the later there is a way of many:Simply copy the required code and add the required variables and pins to your code.So instead of defining pins for one module and two segments you do so for two modules and four segments.Match the variables so they match the different modules and outputs.You can clean it all by combining corresponding tasks instead of simply adding them to the end of your code - as ...

I don't have a solution out of my head but maybe a way to get you going:Since you got it working with one I assume you mean one sensor and one display.If I understand correctly you want to use two 7 segment display to display duble digits.Your code reflects tow displays already, so do you need help getting two segments to work or getting two modules AND two segments to work on one Ardunio?For the later there is a way of many:Simply copy the required code and add the required variables and pins to your code.So instead of defining pins for one module and two segments you do so for two modules and four segments.Match the variables so they match the different modules and outputs.You can clean it all by combining corresponding tasks instead of simply adding them to the end of your code - as you must do anyway for the definitions and pins.

Well I wrote it down so noone needs to remember it all.And I did not specify fresh or salt water as makes no difference in this case.If you check again you will notice i mentioned to use just filter wool and activated carbon during a long UV treatment for curing an outbreak.Just so most of the really bad stuff is out when putting the original filter material back - really helps a lot as you then still have good bacteria in the filter to get going.And yes, I also mentioned that you don't need a UV system for a fit and healthy tank ;)I mainly wrote all this so people who consider getting a UV system due to the hype can see some facts first and get the chance to avoid ever needing one :)

That is the only good thing about being ina country with more UV and sun than you can handle.Solar is an option, even during the winter times if created with suffient overkill.

For around $5000 AU you can get a complete off grid installation package from several companies down here.This is for something in the 4kWh range including batteries, warranty and all.you 2 150Ah batteries won't get you far unless you really go on a low profile with your power consumption.Keep in mind that special batteries are used for the demands of real off grid use.These off grid solutions come with everything you need, including fuses, so you only need to wire up the one or two lines for your outlets and lights.If you ask me well worth to consider if you really need a reliable power supply with all safety features and certifications required to meet AU standards.

That is why I pointed out the problems with these cheap solutions.The case and prints might change but no matter where you buy them their design gives them away.As said I still have two of them and it it seems to be time to find them and post some pics of the cheap internals LOLDown here going solar was highly promoted and subsidised and with the overproduction in asia prices a still at a low.If you compare the price for what you really need to build your own solar system properly to the 2 or 4kW solutions offered as a package then there is only one option.You can't beat them because they buy in massive bulk loads and if you order a off grid version for self install the price is even cheaper.In either case I recommend checking local forums for what they use or to seek out real reviews o...

That is why I pointed out the problems with these cheap solutions.The case and prints might change but no matter where you buy them their design gives them away.As said I still have two of them and it it seems to be time to find them and post some pics of the cheap internals LOLDown here going solar was highly promoted and subsidised and with the overproduction in asia prices a still at a low.If you compare the price for what you really need to build your own solar system properly to the 2 or 4kW solutions offered as a package then there is only one option.You can't beat them because they buy in massive bulk loads and if you order a off grid version for self install the price is even cheaper.In either case I recommend checking local forums for what they use or to seek out real reviews of the inverter you can buy before you buy it.If you can use Google properly but can't find anything but sales listing then stay away.

I suggest you check what you know first and go from there.You say you have no problem getting the right frequency - how do you know that without confirming it?No display means no info and a garbled serial result does not mean the data is correct.You get in the serial monitor what is transfered, check by adding some lines to your code to send "Hello world" along with it.If you don't see hello world in the serial monitor as intended it means you have a problem.This can be the way you provide or send the data but I doubt a power problem.To me it sounds you don't really understand what you are doing and how to check your code and data input/output.As said, start by showing your data on a LCD and go from there.

+1Couldn't say it any better....

Only way I know goes somehow like this:Open the full preview of your draft and zoom the page so it fits into the width of your screen.Export or save the preview page as HTML and share it like that by Email or so.

Check how HDMI works, what is all used within the protocoals and than ask yourself how to get this into a display connector.Not to mention the problem of getting the signals right to match the resolution either way.

If that would be the case then SV switches with indicator lights would have a massive amount of electronics inside and a huge price tag outside ;)The transistor interferes with your signals for the video ;)

If the frquency is stored then you should be able as a first step to show it on a display.Can be any simple LCD for the Arduino.Have the frequency read and the display updated every 50-100ms.Using a display is really helpful as you eliminate the problem with coding the right stuff for a serial connection - get the basics right first before you add more ;)Once you can show the frequency of the tone you play the same values can be used to update the display AND the data for the serial connection.You basically send the frequency as a number value or encoded as a string and the serial monitor will produce a very long list that scrolls through.From there and with a bit of BASIC of VB scripting you create a little program that uses this serial data to update the info for your computer to show...

If the frquency is stored then you should be able as a first step to show it on a display.Can be any simple LCD for the Arduino.Have the frequency read and the display updated every 50-100ms.Using a display is really helpful as you eliminate the problem with coding the right stuff for a serial connection - get the basics right first before you add more ;)Once you can show the frequency of the tone you play the same values can be used to update the display AND the data for the serial connection.You basically send the frequency as a number value or encoded as a string and the serial monitor will produce a very long list that scrolls through.From there and with a bit of BASIC of VB scripting you create a little program that uses this serial data to update the info for your computer to show it as a changing value on the screen instead of scrolling down.

It won't work as easy as you want it to as any addition to the signals will cause problems with picture quality.But there is a simple "workaround" to the problem at hand, which I used years ago when I needed to get feedback from microswitch positions.I assume you have the standard slider-type-selector switch.Meaning it has three different positions which are slected by pushing it around - not a knob or "on-0off" flick type switch.You can cut a piece of thin plastic to act as a repeater for another switch - even turned 90° to hide it all on the inside of the box.Plastic strip has two matching holes for the switch pin you operate with your fingers.When you select a channel the slider will also push or pull the other switch.From that second switch simple wire some L...

It won't work as easy as you want it to as any addition to the signals will cause problems with picture quality.But there is a simple "workaround" to the problem at hand, which I used years ago when I needed to get feedback from microswitch positions.I assume you have the standard slider-type-selector switch.Meaning it has three different positions which are slected by pushing it around - not a knob or "on-0off" flick type switch.You can cut a piece of thin plastic to act as a repeater for another switch - even turned 90° to hide it all on the inside of the box.Plastic strip has two matching holes for the switch pin you operate with your fingers.When you select a channel the slider will also push or pull the other switch.From that second switch simple wire some LED the way you like it.It is cruicial not to have too much play in the holes to avoid the problem of not getting proper contact.

Bit more details please...Are you trying to establish the connection between the mac and xmc first?If so: does it work, meaning can you send commands that are being recognised and followed?I don't do any rotten fruit products, but I know from past experience that communication starts with the basics.For the XMC to be able to read from a hdd in your mac it must first be able to communicate with the mac.From there is is back the basics and if still required figuring out where exactly the problem happens.

You can't and HUD is a Head Up Display, for example the stuff that brings your speed onto the windscreen.Head mounted screens these days are usually VR goggles.