They called it urbs kaput mundi—the city at the center of the world. And while this gorgeous tumble of ancient and Renaissance buildings may have ceded that title centuries ago, it’s still endlessly fascinating. Its tastemakers retrofit their own inimitable takes on being Roman—whether it’s the elevation of rib-sticking pastas at Roscioli, or the whimsical jewels designed by Delfina Delettrez—into its glorious, timeless maze. All you need to do to find beauty, inspiration, and something seriously delicious to eat is walk out the door of your hotel. (Did we mention it has some killer hotels, too?).