Going Straight
The other day surfing I was given a pleasant reminder.
It was a typical summer session; riding a nose rider with a good friend and enjoying the warm water, sunny weather, wearing a jacket and trunks. After catching a number of waves doing the longboard dance, I got on a wave that peaked up with a nice face on it. There was something special about it compared to the waves before, and I decided to do nothing. Just stand there, go straight down the line, and enjoy the wave’s energy and speed. And out of how many waves I caught that day this was no doubt the best one. It just took such a simple moment to remind me of the purpose of surfing and why we do it.
So next time you feel your surfing is in a rut, may I suggest going straight. Grab an old heavy log, maybe a handplane, or board you don’t usually ride, and enjoy the effortless speed and energy we get to enjoy from riding waves. Reconnect with that feeling. The feeling that got you hooked in the first place. The reason you started surfing.


