Edition: U.S. / Global

Wednesday, March 30, 2016

Food

Missy Robbins, owner and chef at Lilia.
Devin Yalkin for The New York Times

Missy Robbins, owner and chef at Lilia.

This Italian restaurant in Williamsburg is something of a rarity: the sole focus of a talented midcareer chef.

For a Better Caesar, Get Kale Into the Mix

The sturdy green, added to romaine, produces an updated classic that can keep awhile. (Article plus video.)

Japanese Chefs Make Their Mark in Paris

A new generation of chefs from Japan run some of the most acclaimed French restaurants in Paris — a city that isn’t known for embracing outsiders.

An Indian Spice Mix, Sambhar Masala, for All Seasons

Cooking teacher Raghavan Iyer has created a simple spice mix to bring the flavors of Indian cuisine to American cooks.

Yana Gilbuena Goes Around the World on a Sharp Blade

For a Filipino chef making pop-up dinners all over, the travel-ready mandoline is a must.

The Chinese Club Is Reborn in Brooklyn

Also, Between the Bread adds a branch in Chelsea, Il Bambino lands in Greenwich Village, David Chang has a new Momofuku project in the works, and more.

Let Them Make Noise: A ‘Dining Club’ Invites Toddlers

For parents who have given up dining in fancy restaurants, Nibble and Squeak offers a chance to eat in style with the children.

Alex Lee, Former Chef at Daniel, Joins Starr Restaurants

After dropping out of sight, a marquee chef returns to run a growing empire of kitchens.

13 Great Recipes for Right Now

The perfect Caesar salad, a drink with activated charcoal and more for the week.

City Kitchen

A Nearly Foolproof Method for Golden, Crunchy Chicken Breast

Chicken Milanese, dressed with a kicky olive relish, is easier and faster than regular fried chicken.

At Tut’s Hub, Egyptian Street Foods Get a Temple

Imposing columns, statues of gods and three stories in Astoria, Queens.

Iranian Sweets Fit for a Cleric or King

Three generations have been making cookies and candies for the last century at a shop in central Iran.

Saburi Departs a City of Restaurants, Taking a Japanese Cuisine With It

A restaurant in Kips Bay, Manhattan, is considered the only establishment in New York to serve Japanese-style Chinese food. It is closing this week, to a small chorus of laments.

California Grapes That Flourish in Splendid Isolation

Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County is remote, but has drawn a who’s who of winemakers.

Prototype

A Ski Town Greenhouse Takes Local Produce to Another Level

Vertical Harvest, a multilevel hydroponic greenhouse in downtown Jackson, Wyo., is bringing year-round fresh vegetables to a place better known for its snow.

Drink

What’s Your Pleasure?

Bartenders embrace the challenge of “bespoke” cocktails, tailored to fit the drinker’s whim.

Henri Bonneau, Wine Producer Known for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Dies at 77

Mr. Bonneau, a 12th-generation French vigneron, rejected modern methods to issue powerful wines that recalled how they might have tasted a century or two ago.

Julian Niccolini, Co-Owner of Four Seasons Restaurant, Pleads Guilty to Misdemeanor Assault

Mr. Niccolini, initially charged with felony sexual abuse after an encounter that left a woman with scratches and bruises, will remain free unless he breaks the law in the next 12 months.

Sourdough Starter, America’s Rising Pet

Adopt it, feed it, even name it. You’ll be paid back in lofty doughs and pungent breads.

Mezzaluna, the Little Restaurant That Started a Revolution

The nationwide spread of the Italian trattoria can be traced back to this Manhattan pioneer of the 1980s.

Eat

The Queen of Entrees, Restored

A contemporary (and vegetarian) adaptation of the splendid, regal chartreuse.

Lowlife Plays It Cool on the Lower East Side

At this new restaurant from a former Blanca chef, sensible minimalism clashes with a grand manner.

Brighter Lights, Bigger City: The Odeon’s Second Act

The restaurant acquires new life thanks to the arrival of Condé Nast downtown (plus regular infusions of new money).

David Chang’s Next Restaurant, Ando, Will Be Delivery Only

The chef plans to tap the style of his Momofuku dishes.

A Good Appetite

Fish and Chips, Minus the Fryer

Baking fish and French fries is easier and less messy than frying, and the result is just as tasty. (Article plus video.)

City Kitchen

Miso Soup Delivers Deep Weeknight Flavor

A giant bowl of this vegetarian dish can make for a satisfying supper.

Two Simple Techniques That Bring Out the Best in Cauliflower

Grilling and pickling adds a punch to this spring stew.

Angkor Cambodian Bistro Explores Southeast Asia, Gently

The Upper East Side restaurant is the third for a former refugee.

Moqueca Offers Flavors of Brazil in a Tropical Fish Stew

Unfamiliar, perhaps, but essential ingredients; the essence of the dish and Brazilian cuisine, for that matter.

A Second Look at Washington Syrah

The best bottles radiated savory character, though there are too few of those.

American Cut Brings a Downtown Steakhouse Uptown

Also, Fair Weather Bushwick is like an intimate dinner party, Impero Caffè is Scott Conan’s latest, and Rider opens in the Brooklyn music space National Sawdust.

Restaurants and News
Jeff Swensen for The New York Times

The once-struggling former steel town is drawing millennials with innovative new restaurants and bars.

Insa Brings Korean Cooking to Industrial Brooklyn

At this crossover restaurant, traditional recipes are altered but their spirit is largely left intact.

Mimi’s Hummus, Spreading Its Middle Eastern Influence

A popular Brooklyn restaurant has expanded to the East Village.

From Kefir to ‘Cucamelons,’ Sampling the Next Wave of Natural Foods

A guided tour of the Natural Products Expo West trade show in California offers insight into where natural and organic food trends are headed.

Questlove’s Latest Quest: Bringing Chefs Together

The hip-hop musician is becoming a force in the food world.

Senate to Vote on GMO Food Labeling Bill

The senators will consider whether the government should require labeling on foods containing genetically engineered ingredients, an issue that has split the food industry.

The Anti-Packaging Movement

Recycling is nice, but some shop owners are trying to eliminate waste altogether.

Talk

Padma Lakshmi Won’t Date Men Who Aren’t Feminists

The writer and TV personality on her family of empowered women, eating placenta and how Mary Karr introduced her to a new passion: boxing.

An Artist Who Hunts, Emilie Clark Gets Her Gun, Then Her Dutch Oven

The paintings go up in a gallery, and the game goes into her Le Creuset pot.

Simple Syrups for Cocktails and Desserts

Blank Slate Kitchen syrups, a new Midtown seafood market, food in the opera and more.

Teisui Gives ­Yakitori Top Billing in NoMad

Also, a Caprese addition to Little Italy, Tim and Nancy Cushman are opening a second restaurant in the Park South Hotel, and more.

Cooking

Pastry chefs turn to eggs to deliver the lighter, brighter feeling of warmer weather. (Article plus video.)

Eat

Caramelized Citrus Brings Sunshine to the Plate

A bright confection for any weather.

City Kitchen

Lamb Stew Offers a Glimpse of Spring

With lemon and egg, this braise almost cooks itself.

Coming Home to Pot Roast

The favorite dish of Gavin Kaysen, a former Café Boulud chef and native Minnesotan, owes to his culinary skill — and his grandmother.

City Kitchen

Accara Offers a Taste of Senegal in Fried Form

The West African street-food snack can be piled into a sandwich with a spicy bite.

Alfajores, a Sweet Excuse for Making Dulce de Leche

Dulce de leche stars in the Latin American sandwich cookies called alfajores. (Article plus video.)

Drinks
Abigail Gullo prepares a De La Louisiane cocktail at Compère Lapin.
Sara Essex Bradley for The New York Times

Abigail Gullo prepares a De La Louisiane cocktail at Compère Lapin.

If New Orleans was not the birthplace of the cocktail, it is certainly its spiritual center. Here’s where to find the best, old and new.

Eli Zabar’s Wine Cellar: It’s Not Chopped Liver

The famed food retailer collects and sells Burgundy — his way, as always.

A Reluctant Barkeep, Mourned on the Brooklyn Streets That Called Him Home

Sunny Balzano, a fixture at his family’s quirky bar, Sunny’s Bar, in Red Hook, died on Thursday at 81.

The Pour

How to Pick a Wine Store

The best way to drink better bottles is to cultivate a relationship with a good shop.

Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Pomerol

Focus turns to the most exalted region for merlot in the world.

Front Burner
To Savor

A new Korean French dip sandwich from the chefs Dominique Ansel and Deuki Hong, and more food news from Florence Fabricant.

Featured Recipes
Pot Roast
Roasted Vegetable Bibimbap
Quick Pickles
Alfajores  
Cabbage and Potato Gratin

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

Best of 2015
Restaurants
Top New York Restaurants of 2015

Sluggish economies breed cautious restaurants. This year’s crew is anything but.

The Top 10 Places to Eat Well and Cheaply in 2015

Each reminded me that cooking takes time, especially when only one person is in the kitchen.

Culinary Travel
Heads Up
New Seattle Marketplaces Satisfy Appetites for Everything

For residents and tourists alike, these vibrant markets have become destinations all their own, offering savory dining to grab-and-go shopping.

52 Places to Go
Where Foodies Should Go in 2016

Truffles, beer, cherries and crustaceans are singled out for celebrations.

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