Drafting Sewing Patterns

Another sewing blog, with an emphasis on making patterns for garments.

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Snail Like

A teeny bit of progress on the coat this week. I cut a pattern, and decided to make a part toile to see if the latest idea about the neckline was going to be a runner or not.

Coat Pattern Front

Coat Pattern Front

I’ve cut the toile in a short length of a poly suiting bought very cheaply on or just after that brief moment when lurex stripes were being woven indiscriminatingly. As poly suiting goes its quite good fabric, firm enough to give some idea about how the finished piece will hang.

The neckline in question was going to be raised to about mid front, then plain. I also wanted to check if the tiny bit of flare added would be enough. Sewn, the decision is simpler neckline and half an inch more flare or so. I’ll leave generous side turnings to give myself wriggle room if  the wool affects the hang. The fit is good.

Progress is slow due to extensive work on the garden. I’ve been too tired in the evenings to machine, which leads me to wonder about starting some hand embroidery for  slumped on the sofa hours. The last time I tackled embroidery was post operatively several years ago. This –

Embroidered Top

Embroidered Top

That was a make up as you go along design, I’ll aim for a bit more planning next time. There’s a few stash fabrics I could use for base garments, a heavy silk in a very pale apricot colour, a grey velvet and a neutral light fawn shade of a linen type (not pure linen but good). I like the idea of embroidery flowing across or down something, but what? Skirt ? Jacket?

 

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By the Light of the Moon

moon

Did you watch it? So beautiful, majestic and peaceful.

I’d decided to be sensible and sleep, but was awake, stupidly turning over coat/jacket possibilities in my mind. Ideas for quilting the top fabric to the lining were beginning to jell in the restless brain, when

Capturerdoh

If the whole lining is quilted to the top fabric à la Chanel, my pocket innards will have nowhere to hide. I’m thanking the moonlight for this wake up. A test or two to check if it can be part quilted, but leave pocket hiding space.

This morning I altered my block to make it jacket friendly. If you’ve begun pattern drafting, and are wondering how you can develop your basic block for simple overgarments, this is what I’m doing.

Back and Front Bodice – Add 1.5 cms to each side seam ( totals an extra 6cms). Lower the armhole by 1.5 cms. Raise the Shoulder point by 0.5 cms. The amount of ease is a variable feast. I’m going for a fairly minimal extra amount because the idea is a lightweight, spring/autumn top garment which fits in a standard way,  not oversize, like the Burda coat, previous post.

Oversize Coat

Oversize Coat

There’s an element of guesswork in choosing the ease amount, because different fabrics, linings and interlinings behave differently. So there is an argument to balance out my frequent carping about Vogue ease acreage. I will be leaving 2.5 cms turnings on the side seams to give myself wriggle room if my guess turns out to be poor. Vogue of course are stuck with 5/8ths of an inch and have to keep you happy if your fabric is mega bulky and tweedy.

Sleeve –  bats off the bodice changes. Draw a line from underarm point to underarm point and one half the measurement the bodice UP was lowered by (ie 0.7 ish -heck, ignore the half mm.). Extend this new Top Line out to the sides of the original sleeve block and walk the bodice block from the balance points, curving down to the new Top Line. Where it hits is the new underarm point. You do this on the back and front of the sleeve and will notice that the new UPs give you a wider sleeve, helpful for a jacket. Drop a line from this for the sleeve sides. You can drop it at right angles to top line or take it in to the original wrist points, I do the latter.

The second bodice armhole change was at the shoulder point. I raised it very slightly. For a squarer look you can raise it more. I’m going to use just a suggestion of shoulder padding, again going for a casual look. You now do a similar walking exercise with the top part of the bodice blocks around the top part of the sleeve, and aim to have this curve finish with about 2.5 cms of ease in the sleeve head. Some pattern makers argue that sleeve head ease is a myth, that you don’t need it. I’ve already posted about sleeve fitting, so not rabitting on about it again. I like about 2.5cms so there!

 

 

 

 

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October Burda

Why do I  buy patterns and pattern mags when I can draft my own? Search me. Some kind of hoarding compulsion, like saving coffee jars for the jam I won’t be making. How about you – buy only what you’ll use, or support an acquisition habit?

The October issue caught me in a bored moment in the papeterie. Much of it seems to have an oversize thing going on, harking back to the early 90s – like this raglan sleeve coat with a wide shawl collar, and its near identical sis with the tie belt.

Coat Rehash

Coat Rehash

Oversize Coat

Oversize Coat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wide trousers with side pockets and pleats are getting a re-run too, but why the tab at the outside seam at the ankle? A pressing complication.  They’ve teamed them with another useful hardy perennial, the cowl top, and a wotsit for pulling over your head and wearing round the shoulders. I’d want to make this hemmed, lined or doubled or something. The raw edge looks cheap.

Oxford Bags Again!

Oxford Bags Again!

This cosy, baggy top will probably suit many of us. Teamed with another useful regular, the straight skirt with front pleats and side pockets. Nicely styled!

Cosy Top, Useful Skirt

Cosy Top, Useful Skirt

What can be said about this?  If it’s cold enough for a coat, I like sleeves. Clumsy is the adjective springing to mind. Burda dub it a Master Piece. What do you think?

No! Please, No.

No! Please, No.

Where are the hallmark Burda misses? Top billing this satin top, with the inexplicable side flaps tacked to the hem and the bulbous neckline pleats. Guaranteed to add kilos. And yes, she is wearing it with the Oxford Bags and brogues. We all have those days.

Bulge in Satin

Bulge in Satin

Runner up in the WTF stakes its got to be this skirt.

Panting Dog Skirt

Panting Dog Skirt

If I’m going to the expense of extra fabric for a pencil skirt and committing to the work of setting a perfect concave to convex seam I don’t want the result to conjour up images of kangaroo pouch or lolling dog tongue. The stylist apparently shared my reservations. If you peer closely at the photo  tongues have become saddle bags. In some alternative universe where I found myself with a dog’s leg of special fabric and a left over strip, and was too idle to think of a better solution, the side position would win.

Can’t see what I’m on about? The waitress ensemble makes it all too clear.

Waitress Outfit, First Trimestre

Waitress Outfit, First Trimestre

Why not waste some decent leather on it? You can always turn it into a bag later. Front  pouch is half way bag already. Make a slit near the waistband and you’ve got both.

Bag-Skirt

Bag-Skirt

Moving to pastures sweeter, there’s a simple, easy to wear button through dress made successfully in viscose, with a less successful version in satin pretending to be a different design (why do they do this?). Burda, we look at the line drawings.

Button-through Dress

Button-through Dress

Another ‘like’ is a kimono cut top, worn with an obi style belt, which unfortunately gets rehashed as a dress with the side panels in impossible to source pleated fabric.

Kimono Top and Obi

Kimono Top and Obi

Burda’s pleated fabric is so lightweight that it is semi transparent. Good luck finding some fine enough not to bunch twixt boobage and waist and solid enough to preserve decency outside a photo shoot.

Pleaty Odball

Pleaty Odball

Still with the pleats, better placed in this dress. I feel sure some creative stitcher will turn out a decent version.

Pleated Dress

Pleated Dress

A long evening dress also goes in my like pile, but are the aerofoils above the waist a feature too many?

Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Less is more, less is more. The basically nice wrap dress is detail rich (too rich?) in the sleeve with a triangle inset at the sleeve head and another at the wrist. Please consider the wrong side of the fabric in the waterfall wrap Burda.

Wrap Dress

Wrap Dress

Hot favourite for me is a design with bands from the side seam to raised neckline, available in a short and long sleeved version. probably not for the uber-busty, but could work on many figures.

Two Tone Jersey Dress

Two Tone Jersey Dress

What do you think? Does any style stand out for you, and which are the bum notes?

Also rans – the cowl neck top as a dress, the suit jacket seen with the horrid skirt above and coat from the same basic design with bunchy gathers and oversize pocket flaps at the waist, the shawl collar coat chopped to become a quilted jacket and some boring blouson variations.

The larger sizes have a couple of formal jackets and trousers which are good to have, and some indifferent tops and dresses, not bad, just nothing to write home about. There are also four children’s patterns in size range 60 to 68 cm chest.

Is it worth the money? The cover claims 51 styles – but several of these are second or third variations. Assuming you don’t need hand holding to lengthen a blouse to a dress or vice versa, or cut a long sleeve shorter or put a different pocket on, you can count on about half that number. That’s still a lot for 6.50 euros.

Old Burda mags used to have far more patterns crammed onto pattern sheets, value – but hard to see. My favourite way of tracing off the patterns while not messing up the original sheets is using sheets of carbon paper hinged together, face down on my pattern paper, with the pattern sheet on top, following the lines with a propelling pencil without lead. If it’s a pattern where I want to add seam allowances, this can be done at the same time using a flexible curve. It’s more tedious than a user ready paper pattern, but so much better than printing out a thousand A4 sheets and taping them together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Truck with Tucks

I’ve taken a few days out from the coat decision process to sew a shirt in some orange voile I bought in a sale from a local Myrtille three years ago. The idea was to play around with meandering pin tucks as a dummy run for making something similar in white voile or lawn next summer, when … ahem, I’ve diminished my stash of fabric enough to feel ok about buying some for specific projects.

A fearsome double hemstitch needle  made the tucks. It doesn’t make true pin tucks, but does a fair facsimile with a hint of hemstitch holes.

Properly drafting a pattern for tucks involves slashing the pattern and spreading for each tuck.  I eschewed this labour intensive process, winging it for the spacing and spreading the pattern pieces on the cloth.

Cheat Sheet for Tucks

Cheat Sheet for Tucks

The bust dart was moved into the line of tucks. It was worked by trimming back the sides of the dart to 5mm and pressing them open, then working three tucks over it, extending them the full length of the shirt. This took care of neatening the dart turnings. The underside of the double needle work zigzags the bobbin thread covering the turnings.

Dart Tucked

Dart Tucked

Above is the first of three tucks taken over the dart and running down to the hem. You can just see on the left that there is a seam (dart seam) in the centre of the tuck, and not in the right hand part of the tuck. Its pretty well invisible when all the tucks are done.

Double Needle Tucks

Double Needle Tucks

The double needle is doing exactly what you strive to stop it doing when you use it to hem jersey, the bobbin thread tightens the fabric underneath and creates narrow tucks.

Fronts, Unpressed

Fronts, Unpressed

Sleeve Unpressed

Sleeve Unpressed

Cuff

Cuff

On the Home Straight

On the Home Straight

Almost finished, photographed with buttons just plonked on. French seams neatened the inside. What else can be said? Yellow dressmaker carbon and a white pencil marked the tuck lines. On the orange this isn’t a serious problem, but a white version will need more thought. Perhaps I’ll have to resort to painting lines in washing blue and laundering.

This make it up as you go along shirt was fun to do.

 

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Decisions, decisions

How do you choose between your different ideas when you have a length of one of those fabrics that could work in several different styles? Hard isn’t it?

I’ve been mulling over the black almost bouclé, and the excellent suggestions. Some sort of simple lightweight coat, or long jacket similar to the one Kate made in yellow is getting top billing. I’m going to need a little bit more structure or shape in the pattern than her slender daughter. Sideways view of me in cloth hanging straight down from bust level – not a brilliant look.

One idea was to resurrect this pattern, but with a set in sleeve, keeping the pleated pockets, but making it edge to edge.

jacket

jacket

But I’m still liking the simplicity of the shape in the yellow coat, so doing something like this suggests itself.

Adaptation for Coat

Adaptation for Coat

It would be edge to edge, and have pockets extending from the lower part of the dart-seam, hopefully keeping a simple shape but with a suggestion of fit. I want a set in sleeve but haven’t decided on the shape at the lower half – straight or slight flare echoing slight flare of coat side seam? Decisions decisions! I like the idea of keeping the fabric soft – I wonder if a Chanel jacket technique for the lining would work on a light coat. Has anyone done that?

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Considering Jackets

I bought some textured black wool from these guys at least a year ago. I probably paid £12 a metre for it, that’s about the usual for many of their wools. On casual glancing, it looks like bouclé, but there are no loops, its a firm texture with bumps.

Black textured wool

Black textured wool

I’ve gamely tried to photograph it, and of course it has come out grey and uninspiring. Use your imagination please. The original idea I had for it (collarless jacket) has shifted to the back boiler while I mentally run through other possibilities.  What would you do with it?

Meanwhile, it’s having a cold wash on the wool program.

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Fitted Blouse Construction

The pattern.

The front bodice section has a deeper than average underarm dart because the cup size is increased. Similarly there are four waist darts in the front to grab the fullness under the bust line, rather than increasing shaping in the side seam. There’s a grown on facing beyond the 2cm button stand. The neckline is wide, going from mid shoulder and scooped out to about 12 cms above the bust line. The bodice extends to about  20 cms below the waistline.

The back bodice has two waist darts. The collar is designed with a mock rever . The sleeves are shaped in at the cuff so that the blouse can go under a jacket easily. The elbow dart in the sleeve is part stitched, the lower 7 cms form a slit. There’s a deep cuff designed to hang down over the top part of the hand. It could also be worn turned back.

Construction.

  1. Unusually for me I stay stitched the neckline, going so far as to pin the front pattern to each half when stitching to be sure that it was holding the line and not stretching. My fabric is chiffon, fabric in the ‘take extra care’ camp. Also in the prep stage, the collar, cuffs and button stand facing got some lightweight fusible interfacing, and I sampled french seams, checking that the needle and thread were ok. My sample showed that the fabric wouldn’t fray too much for narrow french seams. If the fabric does fray excessively, you can try running a zigzag after the first stitch line,  using a narrow double needle for the first pass or pinking the seam allowances.
  2. Darts next. The bust dart is designed to be pressed upward. This is to give the best line in wear. The waist darts are pressed inward for the same reason. Actually, each dart gets four presses – first one along its length to give the fold a sharp edge, second one in the opposite direction to its final position, third to its final position, and fourth from the right side of the garment to make sure there are no folds, bumps or pokes.  End stitching of the darts is secured with a very small stitch. This is less lumpy than a backstitch and quicker than threading the ends into a hand needle and running them back along the fold.
  3. Shoulder seams.
  4.  Frustratingly the collar is the longest process. Making your own pattern you’re never quite sure if it’s going to resemble the idea in your head. Will there be enough, but not too much roll? Will the points sit where I intend? Is it wide enough?  and so on ….

     pseudo rever shape

    pseudo rever shape

  5. I chose to set the collar on with a self fabric bias binding. The collar is made up, seam allowances trimmed and snipped then turned RS out. Turning is much easier in floppy fabrics if you force yourself to press the outside edge turnings open with the toe of the iron. Very tedious, but it pays off. The collar is set onto the neckline and the grown on front facings neatened on the raw edge and turned back over it.
    Facing folds back

    Facing folds back

    Then the bias strip is set on, easing the edge on the stitching line so that the outer edge will lay flat on the longer curve of the garment.

    Ease binding on

    Ease binding on

    The seam allowances are trimmed and snipped and the raw edge of the binding turned under. This can then be slip stitched or machined in place. Lady luck smiled  – I’m happy with how the collar turned out. I really wasn’t looking forward to redoing it.

  6. Sleeves. The top part of the elbow dart is stitched, then the bottom 7 cms split, trimmed back to 1cm and hemmed, the scruffy top edge on the inside getting a small zigzag stitch to neaten it.
    Sleeve opening

    Sleeve opening

    To do french seams with a set in sleeve in a blouse made in a fine fabric you can work with the side seam sewn the classic way, or work flat which is slightly easier. The sleeve head shouldn’t have more than 2-3 cms of ease  (be sure your pattern fits  it will be a Royal Pain to unpick!) . You need to finish with a narrow seam, to avoid puckering.  Run a gathering thread between the back balance mark and the front balance mark along the fitting line then run another 4-5mm away from it into the seam allowance. With wrong sides together, pin and, if you prefer, tack the sleeve in on the final fitting line, easing in any fullness.

    Double gathering and tacking

    Double gathering and tacking

    Then draw the second gathering thread in just enough to match the sleeve head curve to the armhole curve and stitch on this line. Use a fairly small stitch. Trim the seam allowance back to within 3-5mm of the stitching. Snip in to the concave curve (underarm) and make V shaped snips into the seam allowance around the sleeve head.

    Notch seam allowance

    Notch seam allowance

    If you tacked on the fitting line, rip this out. Press the turnings towards the garment and then fold the sleeve RS to RS of garment and press along the fold. The sleeve fitting line has already been eased to match the armhole in the first stage, but recheck that its all going to go in smoothly, then run the second line of stitching enclosing the turnings.

    Turnings enclosed with second stitching

    Turnings enclosed with second stitching

  7. Side seam and sleeve seam, french seamed .
  8. Make two small rouleau loops to fasten the cuff, make the cuff inserting each loop at the top of the narrow edge of the cuff, attach the cuff stitching the outer piece to the sleeve and slip stitching the inside to enclose the turnings.

    Cuff

    Cuff

  9. Hem – I machined this with a double fold.
  10. I made covered buttons, not having anything suitable in stash. There’s a covered snap fastening for the below the waistline area. This is to avoid lumpy buttons spoiling the line if the blouse is tucked in to a fitted skirt.

    Covered snap

    Covered snap

  11. Buttonholes

    Buttonholes

    Buttonholes

Finished

Front view

Front view

The dress form is a size smaller but you get the general idea I hope!

From the side

From the side

Blouse is cut to a larger cup size, its a little baggier on the stand than it will be on the ‘client’.

Insides!

Insides!

( apologies for the quality of my pictures. My sewing room gets a blast of sunlight which creates deep shadows in the morning, and has very bad artificial lighting. I haven’t solved these lighting problems, as you see!)

 

 

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