6PAC progress already!

What a good idea it is to clean up the sewing room (mind you, I have yet to go through the scraps and books and fabric PROPERLY).  There is suddenly a cutting table, and space to put things, and I can find my patterns!  My iron is very happy in its new home, as are my scissors and marking equipment, and I’ve at last found all my rulers, including the one I gave up on and bought a replacement for (obviously).

Today I completed the green t-shirt for the 6PAC (number 1 from the Ottobre magazine).  It fits beautifully, is very comfortable, and it truly is the most boring thing I’ve made in a very, very long time.  Apart from the colour, it has nothing to distinguish it. I’m going to go get some soft mesh stabiliser and I’ve got an embroidery design I’m going to put on it.

Mods to the pattern: 42 at neckline, squared the shoulder up to the 44 line in front and 46 line in back and traced a 44 armhole, then out to 46 at the hem.  44 sleeve (too long, but otherwise good).  Added a seam allowance to the neckline accidentally which I shouldn’t have done.  Hems and neck binding done with a stitch on my regular machine because I couldn’t be asked to get out and thread up the coverstitch.

You have to be careful with embroidery and t-shirts, especially with such a lightweight fabric.  I’m going to test the design first on the large scrap I have left from making the shirt.  Better a boring shirt than an unwearable one!

Meanwhile I’ve cut out the navy knit for the V-neck version.  Two boring shirts will be a very cheerful problem to have.  I’m kind of out of t-shirts (what is this I can’t even) so I may even go further and make another in a knit I found in the clear out — a patterned burnout that I think I got in California several years ago.

It has brown tones rather than blue, but the green running through it means it will work nicely with the navy.

I also spent some time looking at my yarn and I think I will not have enough of it for the hoodie, so I’ve decided to machine knit “Daffodil” by Helga Isager.  Her yarn is very similar to mine and I think this will be perfect, and will prettily show the colours beneath.

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I checked the Isager book out of our local library and spent some time yesterday drawing a diagram of the pattern and charting the lace, which for some reason known only to herself is WRITTEN OUT.  I use the Passap method of writing out a knitting diagram and I can tell you it is much much more efficient use of space… Anyway so tomorrow will be making my test squares.

Ottobre 5/2018 – Autumn 6PAC

Every so often Ottobre comes out with an issue that I can tell I will use for a while, and this autumn is a great one!  So easy to build a “one dot” 6PAC wardrobe — well, one and a half dots!

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Although I feel I could make nearly all of this issue, below is my choice for a wardrobe, using navy and bright green — all of which were in my fabric pantry already.

  • Number 4 sweater cardigan — the pattern is to sew from merino sweater knit. I’d wear this all the time (1.5 dots).  From my own stash: grey-blue alpaca wool reclaimed from another XL mens cabled sweater would be perfect; but I might need more yarn so I’m investigating.
  • Number 3 shirt is a great layer and/or top –  (1.5 dots).  I have a blue and grey liberty silk print that’s perfect for this.
  • Number 1 long-sleeved top, boat neck (1 dot). Dark navy rayon knit.
  • Number 17 long-sleeved top, same pattern as 1 but with a v-neck and eliminating the funny sleeves (using the number 1 sleeves). Bright green rayon knit.
  • Number 18 ponte narrow trousers (1.5 dots) — very dark blue
  • Number 2 pleated chinos  (2 dots though…) — french navy tropical wool suiting.
  • I also love the number 19 coat!
  • Bottom to top: ponte for trousers, rayon knit for top, silk for shirt, rayon knit for top, tropical wool for pants, alpaca yarn for sweater.

    Studio Detox 2018 part 2 – chaos again

    TLDR: Progress! Iron moved off the bookshelf and books moved on. New exciting shelf installed. Fabric reduction still to come.

    This year’s studio cleanup seems particularly difficult.  After my success with the yarn and the machines, I have been floundering around in the midst of total chaos. Everything is everywhere.

    I pulled out my copy of Dream Sewing Spaces again.  I considered how they had unified the cutting and ironing tables in most of the spaces there.  I actually made a small pressing board, about 60×60, which could sit on my cutting table (although currently I cannot actually see the table).  But the iron is too far away.  Actually the iron is a problem, sitting there taking space on the bookshelf.

    My goal is: yarn in the yarn place (a cabinet); fabric in the fabric place (the former pantry); and books in the book place (a bookshelf, obviously).  To state the obvious: the iron is not a book.

    My friend visiting yesterday suggested I put the magazines on the bookshelf and the iron where the magazines were, on the counter of the yarn cabinet, right next to the cutting table.  This was clearly pure genius, and swiftly completed, giving me additionally an extra shelf on the bookshelf since I had to take a shelf out out to make room for the iron previously.  Sadly, the extra shelf was not at all enough for all the magazines etc.  Some of them are still in the counter of the yarn cabinet…  But still.

    Buoyed by this success, I also put up a plate shelf I bought on discount at Ikea right above the cutting board!  More properly this belongs in the “pimping” stage in September, perhaps.  And the 8 clear jars I got for my buttons fit perfectly! A surprise, typically that sort of thing is just slightly too big for whatever shelf you have.

    I still have quite a few things to clear and build.  Some fabric has to go.  Some hooks have to be installed.  An extension cord must be purchased or the iron will not turn on.  And now I have to resist the temptation to start creating before I finish fixing…

    Autumn 2018 6-PAC (six-piece sew along)

    Welcome to the autumnal sew-along!  It’s the hottest summer in forever over most of the Northern Hemisphere.  Here in Sweden it has been over 30 degrees C for a long time (and the most we usually get is 25 here and there).  So I don’t blame you if you think that sewing for the autumn is the last thing on your mind.

    Nevertheless the world is turning and the seasons changing.  And with that in mind, it’s time to sew a six-piece basic wardrobe for autumn.  Styles have changed too, with loose and boxy tops now firmly ensconced and long skirts beginning to make a comeback.  I continue to hope for the demise of the skinny pant but that doesn’t seem to have quite come about yet.  So, review your wardrobe and consider whether you have your six basic pieces ready and what you need to sew.  As always, I urge you to concentrate on simple designs and excellent fabric, the best you can buy.  Take some time to fit one or two new shapes as well as relying on old friends.

    Choose one neutral colour as your base (neutral being traditionally: black, grey, white, cream, brown, tan, stone and various dulled colours such as navy and olive and perhaps even plum or rust).  Add to it a colour or another neutral.  Choose the neutral and colour to flatter you and to go with the rest of your wardrobe.

    RESIST the temptation to splash out on pattern and go for fabric quality instead.  For autumn, excellent choices are wool crepe, high quality ponte or double-knit, boiled wool, thicker cottons and quilted cottons.

    The basics of autumn:

    1. A jacket or cardigan in your neutral colour.  This layer sets the tone for the whole collection, so think it over carefully.
    2. A second lighter layering piece in either a tone of your neutral or your colour- cardigan sweater or shirt for example, or unlined jacket.  Autumn is tricky, it’s nice to have layers in two levels.
    3. Two tops – one neutral, one in the colour.
    4. Two bottoms — in two tones of your neutral.

    As you plan your wardrobe, I urge to to test it very thoroughly in your mind.  Imagine opening your closet door in the morning, getting ready to go to work or go out for the day.  How does it feel to reach for these pieces? Are they perfect?  A second way to test is to get a sketch program like Adobe Sketch on you tablet and use a picture of yourself as a layer, and, using the line drawing as a reference, sketch the clothes to see whether you really like the look.

    The formula is simple but it works well to vary it.  For example:

    Your budget is tight but it’s important that you look nice at work, although you don’t work in a formal workplace.  You choose brown and purple as your neutral and colour. You make a boiled wool jacket in brown, a purple and brown checked shirt, a purple tee and a brown tee in the new square shape, a long brown tweed skirt and a pair of deep brown velvet trousers.

    You have to attend a series of functions and conferences for work, so you need a wardrobe that can go from day to night easily.  Black is the obvious choice for a neutral, and instead of a colour you pick as second neutral, a very pale yellow.  You make a light jacket in black satin with black lace back and sleeves, as well as a black cashmere cardigan. Pale yellow raw silk makes a skirt and tank top that can work as a dress, and you add a second tank of black raw silk and a pair of wide-legged black wool crepe trousers with a detachable sequinned belt.

    You will be travelling a lot and you need easy-care basics.  You pick navy and pink as your neutral and colour.  You make a kimono-style jacket in a thick print Japanese indigo gauze, and a long pink light wool lace knitted cardigan.  To that you add a dark pink long-sleeved merino turnip top and a navy short-sleeved merino tunic top.  A pair of jeans and a pair of navy ponte leggings complete your wardrobe.

    You’re retired and spending time at home where the autumn temperatures are mostly hot until they’re not.  You choose tan as your neutral and green as your colour.  A natural-coloured linen jacket, unlined, and a long green cotton cardigan hoodie are your layers.  You add matching wide-legged linen pants and some tan skinny jeans, as well as a boxy tan t-shirt and a longer lime green tunic t-shirt.

    I invite you to think of your own challenges this autumn.  Don’t forget to go through your own wardrobe first and see what you’ve got as a basis — once you have your six basics it’s fun to embellish – add a print dress, or a coloured bottom.

     

    2018 studio detox… day one

    TLDR: Day One: General tidy on the floor, put away yarn and loom.  Help is good.

    As I mentioned I’m trying to clean up my sewing room (aka atelier/studio since frankly much of it is not sewing-related).

    My main problem: Where to start, what to do?

    I should mention that since I fixed up the room I acquired at least three knitting machines, very possibly more; a loom (which folds though!); an ENORMOUS embroidery machine; and last but not least the Tapimatic rug machine.  That’s a lot of machinery to fit into a smallish space which already contained three sewing machines and a knitting machine.  I’ve also acquired a spinning wheel, which isn’t in the studio so doesn’t count, and yet is mentally included by me, as well as producing yarn in surprising quantities…  Also, I produced more than fifteen or 20 unfinished projects, which in themselves don’t bother me, but their remains hang about and clutter up the space and the clutter weighs on me.

    After pottering aimlessly for a few hours and getting NOWHERE I had a great idea and asked my husband and daughter for help.  They suggested picking up the trash on the floor, which was truly an awesome idea, and while doing that we removed all the unfinished projects  into the hallway.  These two things meant I could see the room again!

    With that, I gained some clarity as to my goals: 1) I want the yarn to fit in the yarn cabinet.  I don’t want it spilling out everywhere.  2)  (related): I want the fabric to fit in the fabric pantry.  3) (related): I want the books and patterns to fit into the bookshelf. 4) The loom has to have a home (under the knitting machines is Not Good).  Like, things should be where they’re supposed to be, basically!

    And today I’ve achieved some of those goals!  All of the yarn (bar the small ends that are in a box) is actually in the closet!   To make room, I went through the closet and removed a bunch of stuff that really didn’t need to be there (citric acid, fancy paper, shelf brackets…) plus removing several of my knitting tools like yarn winders over to the shelf with the knitting machines AND putting the Favorit circular knitting machine over there too.  I also found a place for the loom, and have drawn up a pattern for a loom bag, since mine didn’t come in a bag.

    The next stop (tomorrow, I hope) is clearing the bottom shelf or two of the fabric pantry — I want my scraps to live in there, since that makes sense, what with them being fabric and all.

    Actually here’s the thing: I have to go through every single shelf and drawer and once again remove everything that I don’t actually want or use.  I have to look at everything Marie-Kondo style.  And that really IS hard.  But the reward is so excellent…

     

    Late summer studio clean-up

    September, as you may recall, is Pimp the Sewing Room month.  Before that, alas, must come the Sewing Room Detox, where the room gets rid of all the extra annoying bits that have accumulated over the year(s).

    I am starting this process now, hoping for it to be complete.  This year, I have to tackle:

    • unloved fabric
    • unloved books
    • unloved magazines
    • unloved machines (but I love them ALL!!!)
    • unloved scraps
    • unloved, partially-completed projects (the absolute WORST)

    I have so many partially completed projects that I simply must have a strategy.  They demand SO MUCH SPACE.  It’s not even funny.  And, I think I want to remove my beloved, beloved Passap.  My room is too small for me to have two machines set up at once.  Since the Passap is always set up, it destroys the possibilities for all my other machines.  Even though it is my favourite.   Basically, I need to move it to some other part of the house.  Or out to the guest house.  I am sad.  Also, it weighs 9 million tons.  But I fear it must be done.

     

     

    Cycling holiday round up

    We had a wonderful, amazing cycling holiday trip along the Kattegatleden and I’m so grateful to you guys for advice and suggestions.  Also, if you’ve never tried a cycling holiday my experience is A+++.

    Below a short trip report (TLDR: not a drop of rain, many beaches, much swimming, much ice cream, some Germans.  Cycling hats worth their weight in gold. Also padded shorts. Got fitter quickly.  Awesome holiday was awesome.)

    Day 1: Karlstad to Höganäs.

    It was an experience loading all our gear onto the train (see previous entry).  Arriving in Helsingborg we also had to fling everything off before the train departed.  But once that was completed, it was a beautiful start to the trip along the Helsingborg boardwalk. After five minutes we stopped for ice cream (a pattern repeated many many times on this trip).

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    Then up an enormous hill that seemed never to end.  At the top though we were rewarded with an artisan bakery where we purchased bread and excellent local crackers, snacks, and honey.

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    After this we pedalled on (and on and on it seemed) to a campground outside Höganäs.  Actually we missed the campground, went through an open air music festival, and had to turn around and come back.  This was our shortest day, maybe 25k, and I was bone tired by the end of it.  After pitching the tent and making dinner I just went in, laid down, and did not emerge.  I think Johnny put his own pajamas on.  I certainly didn’t do it!

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    I awoke very early the next morning and went out of the campground to see the beach.

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    Day 2: Höganäs to Ängelholm

    More beautiful beach cycling, and we stopped to swim.  And eat ice cream.

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    Then through hilly farmland. Hot. Achy — especially my feet and shoulders began to really hurt.  Dr Moreau pulling the heavier load was extremely and annoyingly cheerful (he is very fit).  Just gritting my teeth for another section of tough cycling when he looked at the map and said “There’s a barbecue place just around the corner.”  I wanted to keep going, having psyched myself up, but we’ve been married 13 years now, and I reminded myself that he’s usually right.  What a barbecue place!  A group of friends had made their own smokehouse, restaurant, and chili pepper greenhouse!!  They even had that fluorescent Mexican soda that I’ve only seen in Spanish markets in New Mexico.  We bought extra pit beans to eat…mmmm….

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    Then through hilly suburban territory following and overtaking and then following again a German family, grandpa, mother, and two kids, complete with huge trailer and stuffed panniers.  At night we settled into to a nice campsite at Ängelholm and lo and behold they were also there!  We cycled about 40km and I was so tired.  Someone left the inner tent zipper open and as a result there were ants in the tent when I went in with Johnny at about 8pm. He tried to make me care but I didn’t and fell asleep.  His dad had to remove the ants as I slumbered on…

    Day 3: Ängelholm.

    I was so achy that I knew I needed a rest day. Ängelholm is a perfectly lovely town with an excellent and child-friendly park with a “trollskog” or “magic forest” full of sculptures and little magical things.

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    And also an excellent ice cream place where Johnny had a HUGE banana split type of thing.  There was also bathing and shell collecting in the ocean, where we observed that the German family were still there, having obviously decided to take the day off as well.

    Day 4: Ängelholm to Båstad

    On the official map, this stage is 57km.  You go around a peninsula, but WE thought hey we can go ACROSS the peninsula and then it’s more like 40km.  We started off, stopped for a swim and ice cream (theme of the vacation), and then headed across.

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    You know about shortcuts, right?  Well, this shortcut turned out to take us over the Hallandsåsen, a huge ridge down the middle of the peninsula.  And it was seriously, seriously hot.  We pushed the laden bikes upward for at least two km, towards the end meeting the first of what would become a stream of multinational cyclists with flags etc. who told us we were almost to the top.  I had to break out the wifi speaker and put on gym music.  Then of course we got to go down. We spied a shop which turned out to be a chic organic butcher with the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted.  While we sat on their patio trying to recover, the German family turned up!  They were lost (using paper maps) while we (with electronic maps as well) were merely stupid.  Anyway we all ate ice cream together, offering water to the passing international cyclists (part of a charity event), and then headed down the hill.  We met up again at a lovely beach restaurant in Båstad, which also had a fantastic adventure pool out back.  They pressed on while we swam (and ate ice cream), and then headed out to the campground.

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    Despite going 40km and up a monster hill, I was feeling much stronger.  I adjusted my saddle height and my positioning and managed to stop my feet hurting.  My shoulder continued to give me trouble, so I read up about it at night — a common cause of this is that you tilt your head up too much.  I resolved to pay attention to this.

    Day 5: Båstad to Halmstad.

    This was a beautiful day of beach cycling, marred only by the intermittent shooting pain in my right shoulders (despite my care). Side stretching and resting gave me some relief.  It was still very hot!  Thank goodness we were cycling along Sweden’s longest beach at Mellbystrand.

    I was no longer super tired from the cycling, and we went on happily, passing beach communities with marinas, as well as cargo bikes carrying 6 nursery children each on their way to an outing and a tandem bike with one recumbent and one regular passenger!  Definitely a cool and funky bicycle culture going on.

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    The last stretch into Halmstad was hot and along a motorway, and the campgrounds  were very far out from the city, and I decided that I would try to use my frequent train points and book us a hotel in the city centre.  This worked, surprisingly!  And, as we pulled into the city centre a shout went up — the German family, who were finishing their trip in Halmstad, had spotted us and we exchanged many greetings and wishes for good luck.  It was really nice to sleep in a hotel bed too.  And we had very excellent fresh sushi at Takenaka, a restaurant run by a Swedish woman and her Japanese husband.   Johnny ate specially made kappa maki, cucumber-only rolls, and was very happy.  We were happy too!

    Day Six: Halmstad to Steninge

    We set out from Halmstad and stopped just a little way out at a small amusement park so that Johnny could have some fun.  Turns out he hates bumper cars, roller coasters, and carousels.  He did like looking at the large, unmoving sculptures of dinosaurs LOL.

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    The official next stage of the route is from Halmstad to Falkenburg, 57km.  I thought that might be a bit much for me, and had seen a wonderful looking hostel at Steninge, about 30km from Halmstad.  When I tried to pre-book they were full, but I thought I would call to see if they perhaps had tenting pitches available.  No such luck but they did have a cancellation, and we were able to sleep in a room.  What a wonderful hostel!  Beautifully decorated by the hostel-keeper’s artist mother in a local style, with organic and freshly made food.  Absolutely outstanding.

    Day Seven: Steninge to just-beyond-Falkenburg (Olofsbo)

    About 35km this day, and not the nicest biking of the the trip, much more along the road and one gruelling stretch along a forest road of loose gravel (gravel + tiny Brompton tires + weighted cargo = OMG I am tired).  And so, so hot.  I maybe didn’t even take any pictures.  I did not have a good impression of Falkenburg, I must say.  My shoulder was paining me a lot.  The campground we were in was one of the worst: just a dry, flat field with roads laid out and row upon row upon row upon row of RVs.  Like a suburb.  With the sun beating down and no shade. The best part about this campground though was that people with no motor vehicles (cyclists and ramblers) got to stay in the old walled garden, peppered with fruit trees, green and cool and quiet – we were the only ones there until late at night when a couple of people walked in.

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    There was a redcurrant bush with ripe berries going to waste.  Dr Moreau and Johnny gathered them, and I made a redcurrant camp jam, which I used for overnight oats.  Yum!

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    Day Eight: Just-outside-Falkenburg to Varberg. About 30k.  Plus more in Gothenburg.

    We had planned to go on to Gothenburg but despite all my efforts my shoulder was just not recovering.  We decided to take the train from Varberg to Gothenburg, which meant getting to Varberg before the train left (and, incidentally, allowing us to watch the England-Sweden world cup match with Dr Moreau’s sister!).  This last day was hot and not very interesting cycling, mostly along a motorway as the main cycle path was somehow not quite there yet, but Varberg itself was very pretty, and we arrived in plenty of time for lunch and train.  Horribly stressful to load everything in the couple of minutes that the train stopped, but we managed.  Then cycling  about 7k through Gothenburg was actually rather nice, by this time I was fit enough not to find the hills such a challenge.   We stayed a few days in Gothenburg, visiting family and friends and the Universeum, then took the train home again.  We think we may tackle the rest of it later, cycling south from Gothenburg.

     

     

    Things I make, and things I think