Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060225

Authors: Sungwoo Kim Yeonjae Kim Juyeon Jung Hyun-Jung Kim Sekyoo Jeong Heesung Shin Wuk-Sang Ryu Jung-Hoon Sohn Gaewon Nam

Despite the potential benefits of cannabidiol as a skin-soothing ingredient, its regulatory status hampers its general use in cosmetic products in many countries. To develop an alternative to cannabidiol, fatty acid amide molecules mimicking the chemical structure of endocannabinoids were manufactured using a lipase-catalyzed process. A mixture of fatty acid amides from sunflower oil and 1-amino propan-3-ol was synthesized using an immobilized lipase reaction, and the activation of cannabinoid receptor 1 (CB1R) was measured using a cAMP assay. The anti-inflammatory activity of the endocannabimimetic ingredients was evaluated in cultured human monocytes and ex vivo human skin explant models. A clinical study was conducted to address the skin hydration, skin barrier function, and skin redness, and the ratio of the interleukin-1-receptor antagonist (IL1-RA) to IL-1α in corneocytes, as a marker for skin sensitivity, were also measured. As a result, the activation of CB1R by endocannabimimetic ingredients was observed in cAMP assays, and a reduction in inflammatory responses by human monocytes induced by lipopolysaccharide treatment were also observed. External stress-induced inflammatory responses were reduced in ex vivo human skin explants. Improvements in skin hydration and barrier function were observed in a clinical study. A significant decrease in skin redness and the IL-1RA to IL-1α ratio was also observed. Endocannabimimetic ingredients, as alternatives to cannabidiol, can be used in skin-soothing cosmetics to increase skin hydration, improve skin barrier function, and reduce skin sensitivity.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060224

Authors: María Moneo-Sánchez Nagore de Pablo Leire Arana-Pascual Itziar Beitia Sandra Benito-Cid Raúl Pérez-González

Prolonged sun exposure disrupts the skin’s structural, mechanical, and functional properties, accelerating aging and contributing to skin disorders. To counteract these effects, we developed a formulation containing potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and reparative ingredients to protect and repair sun-damaged skin. The efficacy of the formulation was evaluated through in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies. Results demonstrated that the formulation reduced oxidative stress and suppressed the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6 (IL-6) and interleukin-8 (IL-8), as well as lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion, in a photodamaged skin model, nearly reaching levels observed in undamaged skin. It also restored collagen levels, improving structural integrity. In vivo, no adverse reactions were observed when used for 28 or 56 days. The formulation improved skin hydration by up to 46%, reduced transepidermal water loss by 20%, increased luminosity by 70%, and reduced hyperpigmented spots by 14%. It also enhanced skin firmness and elasticity by 30% and reduced wrinkle volume and density by up to 53% and 19%, respectively. These findings demonstrate that the formulation’s active ingredients effectively target the pathways altered by UV exposure, offering considerable potential for preventing and reversing sun-induced skin damage while improving both the appearance and functionality of the skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060223

Authors: Sohee Eun Minhye Lim Juyeon Jung Kayoung Shin Sungwoo Kim Yeonjae Kim Gaewon Nam Sekyoo Jeong Hyunjung Kim

Among the complex and diverse triggering and aggravating factors for sensitive skin syndrome, potential defects in skin barrier function are considered one of the most important ones. Previously, we have reported improvements in skin barrier function thanks to autophagy-activating peptide derivatives. Further investigation revealed that the activation of autophagy signaling in skin cells also attenuated inflammatory responses induced by UV irradiation or exposure to pollution. In this study, in vitro and ex vivo human skin explant models were used to evaluate the potential benefits of the autophagy-activating peptide, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl palmitoyl didpeptide-12 (PTPD-12), on sensitive skin-related parameters. Clinical efficacy testing was also performed to confirm the skin barrier-improving and skin-soothing activities of the autophagy-activating peptide. As a result, significant reductions in inflammatory cytokine (IL-8 and TNF-α) and enzyme activity (PDE4) were observed in the in vitro system. Increased expression of barrier marker proteins by PTPD-12 in UV-irradiated human skin tissue was observed ex vivo. In a clinical study, delayed response to topical capsaicin-induced vascular activation, which represents enhanced epidermal permeability barrier function, was observed after 4 weeks of application of PTPD-12 in healthy volunteers. In another clinical study with sensitive skin carriers identified via a lactic acid stinging test, a significant reduction in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin erythema index was observed after 4 weeks of PTPD-12 usage. These results suggest that the activation of autophagy can be a potential treatment regimen for sensitive skin syndrome, specifically in terms of skin barrier function enhancement and skin soothing.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060222

Authors: Celso Martins Junior Matheus Henrique Vieira Érica Savassa Pinto Cacoci Ursulandrea Sanches Abelan Fernanda Daud Sarruf Cibele Castro Lima Chung Man Chin

Hair straighteners are among the most technically complex products to be safely and effectively developed, and this challenge has increased even more with the higher incidence of resistant hair among consumers. This underscores the importance of studying new active ingredients, combinations and carrier formulations to improve performance without compromising safety. In this research, we compared eight hair-straightening formulations with different active ingredients and/or concentrations to develop new, safer and more effective texture modifiers. Eight formulations were developed and compared with each other and to controls (virgin and bleached hair) regarding mechanical and thermal resistance, cuticle morphology, hair shine and fiber diameter. Results showed that all formulations were safe and effective at straightening hair. Specifically, 13.3% and 9.4% ammonium thioglycolate (G03 and G04) were more suitable for wavy and curly hair, 12.5% and 7.9% amino methyl propanol thioglycolate (G05 and G06) for finer or chemically processed hair, 5% and 4% sodium cysteamine (G07 and G08) for curly and tight curly hair to control volume, and 2% and 1% of a combination of ammonium thioglycolate with sodium thioglycolate (G09 and G10) for more resistant wavy and curly hair.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060221

Authors: Simone Amato Steven Paul Nisticò Alessandro Clementi Giorgio Stabile Fortunato Cassalia Annunziata Dattola Giuseppe Rizzuto Giovanni Cannarozzo

Background/Objectives: Rhinophyma, an advanced form of rosacea, is characterized by significant nasal tissue enlargement and deformation, leading to aesthetic and psychosocial challenges. Traditional treatments are often invasive with variable outcomes, emphasizing the need for improved therapeutic approaches. This study evaluates the efficacy of a dual-laser therapy (CO2 and dye lasers) in treating rhinophyma. An innovative diagnostic algorithm using multispectral imaging guided treatment decisions, while Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT) was utilized to analyze post-treatment vascular and collagen changes. Methods: A prospective study was conducted involving 20 patients with rhinophyma. Multispectral imaging was used to guide the tailored application of CO2 laser, dye laser, or both, depending on the predominant vascular or glandular components in the nasal tissue. Post-treatment analysis employed OCT to assess changes in vascular and collagen density, providing insights into the tissue modifications induced by laser therapy. Results: The treatment significantly reduced vascular density from 35,526.75 to 26,577.55 at 300 microns and from 46,916.25 to 35,509.25 at 500 microns. Collagen density decreased from 81.35 to 66.34. All reductions were statistically significant, with highly significant p-values. These findings highlight the dual-laser therapy’s effectiveness in addressing the pathological features of rhinophyma. Conclusions: Dual-laser therapy guided by multispectral imaging provides a targeted and effective treatment for rhinophyma, addressing its vascular and glandular components. The use of OCT enhances understanding of laser-induced tissue changes and confirms significant reductions in vascular and collagen density. This approach represents a significant advancement in the management of rhinophyma, offering improved precision and therapeutic outcomes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060220

Authors: Hei Sung Kim Joo Yeon Ko Dong Hye Suh Hwa Jung Ryu Eunsun Baek Soyun Cho

Acne, a commonly treated skin disease, requires control of one’s daily routine for an optimal outcome. As skincare products continue to advance, and with the introduction of dermocosmetics (active cosmetics, functional cosmetics, cosmeceuticals), it is necessary for clinicians to stay updated and give professional guidance. Following a literature review, a panel discussed and, using an online review process, explored the available acne dermocosmetics and convened to develop consensus statements on acne skincare incorporating patient- and treatment-related factors. Recommendations tailored to several distinct patient subgroups, namely, preadolescent acne, adolescent/adult acne, acne with comorbid atopic dermatitis, acne in pregnancy, drug-induced acne, and acne cosmetica, were generated to maximize the use of dermocosmetics in acne management. In adolescent and adult acne, products with active ingredients that mark key aspects of acne pathophysiology are called for; in atopics, agents which protect and restore the skin barrier are primarily considered; and in the preadolescent age group and pregnant and lactating women, the use of acne dermocosmetics should be prioritized as there are limited treatment options. While skincare alone is often sufficient for mild acne and for maintenance, adjunctive skincare can enhance treatment efficacy as well as patient adherence in various settings. This guideline seeks to offer insights into acne dermocosmetics and provide skincare recommendation tailored to Asian patient subgroups.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060219

Authors: Akira Matsubara Tatsuya Omotezako Ying Xu Anna Evdokiou Lijuan Li Wenzhu Zhao Camila Pereira Braga Dionne Swift Hitomi Nagasawa Jennifer I. Byrd Brad Jarrold Gang Deng Junjie Wang Tomohiro Hakozaki

Dullness or lack of radiance in facial appearance is a common concern among females. Previous studies have linked skin dullness to aging and revealed alterations in skin pigments. However, younger individuals (ages ≤ 35) also report concerns about dull skin in their hectic daily lives, which may not involve pigmentation changes. We hypothesized that the mechanisms underlying dullness in youth differ from those associated with aging. To investigate this, we measured cellular and molecular changes in 132 healthy Japanese and Chinese females aged 18 to 35 using biophotonic multiphoton tomography and biochemical tape-strip analysis. Our findings revealed that dull skin exhibited a thicker stratum granulosum and less densely packed keratinocytes in deeper layers. Biochemical analysis showed upregulation of interleukin-36γ and downregulation of E-cadherin in dull skin, with interleukin-36γ levels negatively correlating (p = 0.023) with metabolites of filaggrin. These alterations resemble those observed in inflammatory skin conditions, suggesting an additional mechanism of skin dullness beyond pigmentation. In vitro cultured cell models evaluated the efficacy of three skincare ingredients: galactomyces fermentation filtrate, bisabolol, and batyl alcohol. Galactomyces suppressed interleukin-36γ (p = 0.037), while both batyl alcohol (p = 0.006) and bisabolol (p = 0.049) showed beneficial effects on filaggrin. Targeting these biomarkers may improve the appearance of dull skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060218

Authors: Abderrachid Hamrani Daniela Leizaola Nikhil Kumar Reddy Vedere Robert S. Kirsner Kacie Kaile Alexander Lee Trinidad Anuradha Godavarty

Traditional methods for skin color classification, such as visual assessments and conventional image classification, face limitations in accuracy and consistency under varying conditions. To address this, we developed AI Dermatochroma Analytica (AIDA), an unsupervised learning system designed to enhance dermatological diagnostics. AIDA applies clustering techniques to classify skin tones without relying on labeled data, evaluating over twelve models, including K-means, density-based, hierarchical, and fuzzy logic algorithms. The model’s key feature is its ability to mimic the process clinicians traditionally perform by visually matching the skin with the Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) palette scale but with enhanced precision and accuracy using Euclidean distance-based clustering techniques. AIDA demonstrated superior performance, achieving a 97% accuracy rate compared to 87% for a supervised convolutional neural network (CNN). The system also segments skin images into clusters based on color similarity, providing detailed spatial mapping aligned with dermatological standards. This segmentation reduces the uncertainty related to lighting conditions and other environmental factors, enhancing precision and consistency in skin color classification. This approach offers significant improvements in personalized dermatological care by reducing reliance on labeled data, improving diagnostic accuracy, and paving the way for future applications in diverse dermatological and cosmetic contexts.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060217

Authors: Meixuan Wang Lu Zhang Linxin Zheng Jiayuan Shi Hongxin Gao Congfen He Liya Song

This review systematically summarizes research progress in the evaluation of the effectiveness and safety of the transdermal absorption of cosmetics, focusing on the classification, applicability, and relevant regulations of different evaluation methods. Transdermal absorption refers to the process in which active ingredients enter the epidermis, dermis, and other parts of the skin through the skin barrier and exert their effects. The article first classifies the in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of transdermal absorption. It also provides a detailed overview of the regulations and standards for in vitro transdermal absorption, compares the standards of different institutions, and highlights the diffusion cell method, developed by scientists at Procter & Gamble, which is the mainstream method for in vitro testing. In addition, the paper summarizes the utilization of modern testing techniques such as high-throughput screening technology, mass spectrometry imaging, Raman spectroscopy, and confocal microscopy in the study of transdermal absorption and introduces the working principles of various instruments and their specific application cases in transdermal absorption studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060216

Authors: Najlae El-Otmani Ikrame Zeouk Ahmed Zahidi

Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H2O, and H2O) were explored in order to identify the most effective extract for use in a sunscreen formulation. Each extract was analyzed for its phenolic content, as well as antioxidant activities (assessed through DPPH, CAT, and FRAP assays). Enzyme inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase highlighted the low IC50 values of the hydroethanolic extract. Furthermore, the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) against UVB radiation was measured using ultraviolet spectrophotometry. A phytochemical analysis showed phenolic levels between 8 and 27 mg GAE/g, flavonoid concentrations of 7–13 mg QE/g, and tannin levels of 1.15–1.68 mg/mL, alongside moderate antioxidant activity. The ethanol maceration extract reduced the interfacial tension to 2.15 mN/m in 600 s, outperforming the conventional emulsifier polysorbate 20. The sonicated hydroethanolic extract demonstrated remarkable SPF efficacy (SPF = 193.65 ± 0.02), far exceeding that of the standard zinc oxide (SPF = 11.88 ± 0.03). The proposed formulations meet the COSMOS standards, suggesting their potential for certification as biological products. Further clinical and in vivo studies are necessary to confirm their safety and commercial viability.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060215

Authors: Ana Jesus Sara F. Vieira Gonçalo Brites Mylène Carrascal Helena Ferreira Nuno M. Neves Honorina Cidade Madalena Pinto Emília Sousa Isabel F. Almeida Maria T. Cruz

Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have demonstrated biologically notable properties. In particular, 1,2-dihydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one (1,2-DHX) has inhibitory activity against skin enzymes, and metal-chelating and radical-scavenging activities. Therefore, 1,2-DHX is an attractive molecule for cosmetic purposes. With this goal in mind, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic potentials of 1,2-DHX were investigated. 1,2-DHX demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the synthesis of specific pro-inflammatory mediators, including interleukin-6 (IL-6) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), in human macrophages. This xanthone did not elicit sensitization reactions and did inhibit allergic reactions triggered by a strong skin allergen, suggesting its potential as an anti-allergic compound. 1,2-DHX also revealed mitochondrial antioxidant activity by mitigating rotenone-induced oxidative stress in macrophages by up to 40%. Overall, 1,2-DHX displayed a safety profile and noteworthy biological activities, highlighting its multifunctional profile as an active cosmetic ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic properties.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060214

Authors: Panikchar Wichayapreechar Anchalee Prasansuklab Pimchanok Charoongchit Ranit Charoenjittichai

Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its inhibitory effect on skin degradation enzymes (collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase assay), have not been reported. This study aims to explore the effects of different solvent extractions on the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents, antioxidant and anti-aging activities, and cytotoxicity. The most suitable extract was selected for incorporation into an anti-aging product. T. stans flowers were extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, absolute ethanol, and deionized water through maceration. The aqueous extract yielded the highest extraction efficiency (40.73%), followed by absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane. The phytochemical screening results revealed that all T. stans flower extracts contained phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and alkaloids. Among the various solvents tested for T. stans flower extraction, absolute ethanol demonstrated the highest total phenolic content (24.10 ± 2.07 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract), followed by deionized water (20.83 ± 1.28 mg GAE/g extract). The highest total flavonoid content was observed in the ethyl acetate extract (205.11 ± 7.83 mg catechin equivalents (CE)/g extract), with ethanol showing a significantly lower concentration (140.67 ± 1.92 mg CE/g extract). In terms of antioxidant activity, the aqueous extract exhibited the most potent effects, with IC50 values of 0.600 ± 0.005 mg/mL for the DPPH• assay and 0.207 ± 0.001 mg/mL for the ABTS•+ assay. For anti-aging assays, the absolute ethanolic extract demonstrated the highest enzyme inhibition activity at 1 mg/mL, with collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 89.49% ± 2.96%, 94.61% ± 2.33%, and 82.56% ± 2.27%, respectively. Moreover, at a concentration of 50 µg/mL, the absolute ethanolic extract exhibited lower cytotoxicity, with human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability of 78% ± 8.47%, which was significantly higher than that of the other extracts. An anti-aging gel containing 0.05% w/w of the ethanolic T. stans extract demonstrated physical and physicochemical stability during three months of storage at ambient temperatures, 4 °C, 45 °C, as well as after six cycles of heating/cooling tests. These findings suggest that the ethanolic extract of T. stans flower has potential as a safe and effective anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060213

Authors: Zainab Qaizar Raffaella de Salvo Gregor Bieri Katrin Unbereit Shannon Montgomery Erwan Peltier

Given the pivotal role played by the microbiome in skin health, it is important to understand how its composition varies with age, sex, and body site and regular use of topical products. Four studies were carried out to determine the effects of long-term (4-week) use of different dexpanthenol-containing topical products on the skin microbiome of a varied population with cosmetically dry skin. The skin microbiome composition was assessed before and after product usage. No significant changes in microbiome richness or diversity were found for the individual test products; however, a meta-analysis of the combined dataset did show changes in microbiome composition as a function of the subject’s sex, age, and body site. The work presented here demonstrates how the use of carefully formulated topical products on skin, when used in a way that is representative of real-life usage conditions, can respect the microbial diversity present on skin across a widely varied study population.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060212

Authors: Carolina Botelho Lourenço Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz Renato Grimaldi Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos Priscila Gava Mazzola

The promotion of natural beauty has empowered women with textured hair to embrace their natural hair texture and opt for bleaching as a means of style variation. However, bleaching exacerbates the inherent fragility of this hair type, necessitating treatments to partially restore its mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, renowned for their strengthening properties, were evaluated regarding (I) their ability to penetrate both virgin and bleached textured hair using Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) time-of-flight (TOF) analysis, and (II) their effects by way of tensile and fatigue tests. The MALDI–TOF results revealed groups of oil molecules in the cortical region of the bleached textured hair. The tensile test results, in turn, showed that the oil treatments were unable to alter the mechanical properties of the hair. Conversely, the fatigue test showed an increase in resistance in the virgin hair, most likely attributed to a lubrication effect in the outermost portions of the cortex and cuticles. In the bleached hair, a reduction in resistance was noted following the treatment with the oils. Comparative analysis with a previous study on straight hair by our group suggests that external molecules diffuse more homogeneously in straight hair than in textured hair. The unique cortical structure of textured hair creates two areas with distinct diffusion zones, resulting in the irregular distribution of external materials and different effects compared to straight hair.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060211

Authors: Paulraj Mosae Mosae Selvakumar

With the growing demand for products that are gentle on the skin and manufactured by eco-friendly means, the field of cosmetics is witnessing a remarkable shift toward natural ingredients [...]

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060210

Authors: Shamama Javed Bharti Mangla Ahmad Salawi Muhammad H. Sultan Yosif Almoshari Waquar Ahsan

Essential oils (EOs) are known for their diverse bioactivities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, skin-barrier repairing and anticancer, and therefore, hold profound potential to be used in cosmetic and skincare products. Owing to these properties, EOs have long been utilized to address a range of dermatological issues, from acne and inflammation to aging and dryness. However, problems associated with EOs beset their practical applications, which include high volatility, oxidation, hydrophobic nature, low bioavailability, skin irritation, chemical transformation and poor stability in air and light. A prospective of nanolipidic formulations, including the nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) system for improved skin delivery of these EOs highlights the possibility of their use in topical applications, which offer several advantages such as improved bioavailability and stability, lower toxicity and higher drug content. These nanoformulations protect the EOs from environmental degradation and improve their penetration into deeper skin layers, leading to prolonged therapeutic benefits. The delivery of bioactive agents using a conventional topical preparation exhibits low penetration, frequent applications, poor adherence and prolonged therapy duration, whereas the novel delivery system exhibits improved stability of the drug, enhanced skin penetration, enhanced retention and better therapeutic efficacy. This review provides a comprehensive compendium of information on EOs, which are widely used in skincare, along with their nanolipidic formulations for maximized skincare uses. The mechanism of action of EOs as skin bioactive agents, challenges associated with their use, advances in nanolipidic formulations and their market value as cosmetic skincare products are also explored.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060209

Authors: Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez Stefano Bacci

Wound healing is a complex biological process that can lead to chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars when disrupted. Chronic wounds result from a prolonged inflammatory phase and impaired re-epithelialization. Keloids are characterized by excessive collagen deposition beyond the original wound boundaries, driven by persistent inflammation and fibroblast hyperactivity. Hypertrophic scars, on the other hand, are confined to the wound edges and are caused by an imbalance in collagen synthesis and degradation, typically resolving over time. The therapeutic approach to wound healing impairment involves a range of strategies, including non-invasive (which focus on supporting the natural healing process), minimally invasive, and aggressive interventions (such as surgical approach, often reserved for severe or refractory cases). Emerging therapies, including stem cell treatments and botulinum toxin injections, offer new hope for improving outcomes in patients with wound healing impairments. This review highlights the distinct mechanisms underlying chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars and discusses their respective therapeutic approaches, focusing on both established and emerging therapies. Understanding these mechanisms is crucial for optimizing treatment strategies and improving patient outcomes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060208

Authors: Giulia Galizia Anna Belloni Fortina Alessandra Semenzato

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that primarily affects sebaceous-rich areas such as the scalp, face, and upper trunk. While the precise etiology remains multifactorial, the role of the skin microbiome, particularly the proliferation of Malassezia species, and alterations in the skin barrier function are critical in its pathogenesis. Disruption of the skin barrier, characterized by increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced production of epidermal lipids, creates a favorable environment for microbial overgrowth and inflammation. Recent insights highlight the interplay between the impaired barrier function, immune responses, and the skin microbiome in perpetuating the disease. Additionally, novel dermocosmetic approaches are emerging that target these underlying mechanisms, offering promising therapeutic avenues. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the involvement of skin microbiome and barrier dysfunction in seborrheic dermatitis and discusses the potential of advanced dermocosmetic treatments aimed at restoring skin homeostasis and preventing disease recurrence.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060207

Authors: Justyna Putek Jacek C. Szepietowski

The aim of this study was to measure the level of self-esteem among individuals with piercings, evaluate body image perception, and screen the study group for body dysmorphic disorder symptoms. Two hundred and six individuals from Poland completed the Appearance Anxiety Inventory (AAI), Body Dysmorphic Disorder Questionnaire-Dermatology Version (BDDQ-DV), Functionality Appreciation Scale (FAS), and Rosenberg Self Esteem Scale (RSES). Differences between groups were determined using a two-sample t-test, post-hoc chi-square test with Bonferroni’s adjustment, the Kruskal–Wallis test, and the Mann–Whitney test. One hundred ninety-six (95.1%) respondents were females, and 10 (4.9%) were males, aged from 15 to 48 years (mean age ± SD = 23.1 ± 6.4 years). Of the respondents, 25.7% screened positive for BDD symptoms according to the AAI and 29.1% screened positive according to the BDDQ-DV. According to the FAS, significantly lower body image was presented by individuals with psychiatric treatment (3.8 ± 0.9 vs. 4.1 ± 0.7, p < 0.05) and by respondents who screened positive for BDD symptoms. Significantly lower self-esteem was reported in individuals with psychiatric comorbidities, psychiatric treatment, and in the BDD-groups according to the RSES (AAI: 24.0 ± 5.6 vs. 30.9 ± 6.0; p < 0.001; BDDQ-DV: 24.0 ± 5.8 vs. 31.3 ± 3.7; p < 0.001). In conclusion, individuals with piercings should be regarded as a group with an increased risk for BDD symptoms.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060206

Authors: Diala Haykal

Objectives: Artificial intelligence (AI) is transforming aesthetic dermatology, introducing new opportunities for personalized, predictive, and adaptive approaches in skin diagnostics, treatment planning, and patient management. This review examines AI’s evolving role in enhancing diagnostic precision, individualizing treatments, and supporting dynamic patient care, with a focus on practical implementation in clinical settings. Results: This piece highlights how AI-based imaging and predictive tools enable more precise diagnostics and tailored treatment protocols, leading to improved patient outcomes and satisfaction. Some of the key benefits of AI in aesthetic dermatology include the ability to detect subtle skin changes, simulate treatment outcomes, and adjust interventions in real time. However, this manuscript also addresses significant challenges that practitioners face, such as technical constraints, data privacy concerns, algorithmic biases, and financial barriers, which impact the accessibility and efficacy of AI across diverse patient populations. Conclusions: While AI holds significant potential to enhance aesthetic dermatology, its responsible integration requires addressing these challenges through clinician training, ethical guidelines, and robust data security measures. Effective use of AI will depend on collaboration between technology developers, clinicians, and regulatory bodies. Perspectives: Looking forward, the development of diverse, inclusive datasets and transparent, patient-centered AI models will be essential to ensure that AI’s benefits reach all patients equitably and safely. By prioritizing these factors, AI-driven technologies would become a reliable, accessible, and transformative element of aesthetic dermatology practice.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060205

Authors: Dandan Chen Shipeng Yin Xuelian Lu Haokun Fu Hongqi Gao Suning Zhang

This study aims to explore the impact of aging on skin elasticity, a key biomechanical property that diminishes over time, using the Cutometer to assess viscoelastic parameters. Methods: Researchers analyzed 22 viscoelastic parameters from the facial skin of 60 women aged 18 to 70. Key Results: The findings indicate that relaxation phase parameters, particularly biological elasticity (R7), exhibited the strongest negative correlation with age (r = −0.62), signifying a notable decline in biological elasticity as women age. In contrast, maximum deformation during the first cycle (R0) and the total area under the upper curve after 10 cycles of deformation (F4) also showed significant negative correlations with age (r = −0.47, r = −0.48), suggesting that younger skin typically presents higher values. These correlations raise questions regarding practical applications, as the presence of moisturizers and emollients may alter the stratum corneum’s properties, thus impacting these measurements. Additionally, the ratio of delayed deformation to instantaneous deformation (R6) demonstrated a positive correlation with age (r = 0.49), indicating its potential as a marker for skin aging. Conclusions: This study highlights the critical role of relaxation phase parameters in accurately reflecting skin elasticity changes associated with aging. The results offer valuable insights for evaluating cosmetic efficacy, reinforcing the need for a nuanced understanding of how various parameters interact. These findings contribute to the ongoing development of more effective anti-aging treatments and products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060204

Authors: Worranan Rangsimawong Sureewan Duangjit Phaijit Sritananuwat Tanasait Ngawhirunpat Praneet Opanasopit

Background: Deer placenta extract (DPE), rich in bioactive macromolecules, promotes regenerative effects in both normal and damaged cells. However, effective delivery of these macromolecules through the skin remains a challenge. Objectives: To investigate the potential of DPE in regenerating hair cells and to develop a nanoniosome (NS) and microspicule (MS) formulation as a promising transfollicular delivery system. Methods: The bioactivity of DPE was assessed in human follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells, including cells damaged by chemotherapy. The NS-MS formulation was designed to deliver biomacromolecules from DPE into skin and hair follicles. Results: DPE at 2000 µg/mL exhibited no cytotoxicity and significantly enhanced proliferation in both normal and cisplatin-treated HFDP cells. The DPE-loaded NSs displayed nanovesicles with a uniform size distribution and a negative surface charge. When incorporated into the MS gel, NS-MS demonstrated a synergistic effect, significantly enhancing the transdermal and transfollicular delivery of macromolecular protein into the skin layers and hair follicles. Conclusions: DPE promoted hair cell proliferation and facilitated the recovery of hair cells damaged by chemotherapy, especially when formulated into the NS-MS system, which effectively delivered bioactive macromolecules to the target site. This suggests its potential role in promoting hair regrowth.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060203

Authors: Qin Liu Peng Shu Qingle Song Zhenhai Huang Jiyu Weng Lanyue Zhang Yuan Wang Qingqing Liu

Background: Retinol, an important bioactive substance with multiple physiological functions such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase activity, alleviating oxidative stress, regulating gene expression, and promoting epidermal cell proliferation, has a significant effect on skin damage recovery. Hydroxyasiaticoside, a triterpenoid saponin derived from Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., is closely related to the secretion of collagen types I and III, and possesses multiple biological activities, including moisturizing, antioxidants, anti-apoptosis, neuroprotection, anti-inflammation, and the promotion of wound healing. It plays a particularly prominent role in reducing oxidative stress in wounds and inducing vasodilatation. Objective: The aim of this study was to investigate the therapeutic efficacy of retinol combined with hydroxyasiaticoside in histamine-induced atopic dermatitis. Materials and Methods: The experiment was carried out using three different concentrations of a retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside mixed solution: low, medium, and high concentrations. After inducing atopic dermatitis in mice through histamine administration, these solutions were applied to the skin surface of the mice, and a comparative analysis was conducted with both the control group and the model group. The effect of combination therapy on atopic dermatitis was evaluated through histopathology, immunohistochemistry, and transcriptomic analysis. Results: The combination of retinol and hydroxyasiaticoside significantly attenuated histamine-induced scratching behaviors, alleviated the phenomenon of epidermal hyperplasia, and effectively reduced the proliferation, infiltration, and degranulation of mast cells. In addition, the combination inhibited the expression of relevant pro-inflammatory cytokines. Quantitative RNA-seq analysis revealed that the gene expression patterns were similar in different concentration groups. However, the medium dose group may be able to regulate skin inflammation by regulating upstream genes to inhibit autophagy-related pathways. Further GO analysis revealed that the low-dose group mainly affected metabolism-related genes, the medium-dose group affected more genes related to body systems, and the high-dose group was dominated by genes related to human diseases.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060202

Authors: M. Lourdes Mourelle Carmen P. Gómez José L. Legido

Peloids are mixtures of clays, sediments, or peat with mineral–medicinal water or seawater, or salt-lake water used in spa therapy for different treatments, including dermatological ones. The origin of peloids can be natural; that is, they are formed in situ at the place where the thermal water emerges or on the shores of the sea or salt lake, or they are prepared ad hoc from high-quality materials, such as clays or peat. Peloids are also used as cosmeceuticals in skin care to treat different skin disorders and/or conditions, such as psoriasis, eczema, and other scaly disorders, sensitive skin, and acne. This review reports all available scientific data concerning the effects and specific activities of peloids in skin care and cosmeceuticals, providing a better understanding of the clinical and cosmetic benefits. Finally, the safety and regulation of peloids are also discussed.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060201

Authors: Natthanan Phupaisan Chadarat Ampasavate Surapol Natakankitkul Kanokwan Kiattisin

Coffea arabica, Centella asiatica, and Curcuma longa extracts have demonstrated significant antioxidant and anti-aging activities. However, research on combining these three extracts in specific proportions to enhance their antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase effects remains limited. Therefore, this study aimed to determine the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts to maximize their combined antioxidant and anti-hyaluronidase activities. A two-level full factorial design was used to identify the optimal concentration ratios of the mixed extracts. The results indicated that all extracts influenced antioxidant activity, with the optimal proportions of C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 0.5:6:2 mg/mL, respectively. In addition, all factors affected hyaluronidase enzyme inhibition, with the optimal proportions for C. arabica, C. asiatica, and C. longa extracts being 10:10:5 mg/mL to achieve the best inhibition. In a photostability study on individual extracts, mixed extracts, and mixed extracts combined with sodium metabisulfite and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, it was observed that preparing the mixed extracts and adding an antioxidant and a sunscreen agent helped reduce the photodegradation of phenolic compounds in the mixed extracts. Consequently, the stabilized mixed extracts could serve as raw materials in cosmetic products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060200

Authors: Morgan Dos Santos Julie Rorteau Kilian Laho Hanan Osman-Ponchet Manon Barthe Benjamin Quelard Antoine Carlino Adeline Saha Sandrine Troussieux

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight the signs of aging, a comprehensive program was implemented in this study to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative ingredient, Willaertia lysate, through a multi-scale approach encompassing cellular and advanced 3D skin models. The results show that Willaertia lysate, initially sourced from French Alps thermal spring waters, is able to (i) promote cell migration; (ii) improve the quality and abundance of the extracellular matrix in aged skins and in young skins exposed to UV radiation to a similar level to that in unexposed young skins; (iii) decrease tyrosinase activity and melanin content; and (iv) reduce oxidative stress after UV exposure by decreasing exposome markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation expression. This complete set of coherent results demonstrates the global protective efficacy of Willaertia lysate against the effects of photoaging. This study is the first to report the use of a protozoan lysate as a natural and biosourced postbiotic active ingredient in the fields of cosmetics and dermocosmetics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060199

Authors: Sitthiphong Soradech Worawan Tiatragoon Phongsapak Phanphothong Kanyarat Ouamkan Pattarawadee Kengkwasingh Supatjaree Ruengsomwong Somkamol Intawong Thanchanok Muangman

The ethanolic extract of Carissa carandas L. (ECE) inhibited the enzyme tyrosinase, enhanced the proliferation of normal human dermal fibroblast cells, and increased the formation of collagen type I, indicating possible anti-aging and whitening effects. However, the stratum corneum acts as a rate-limiting stage in the absorption of herbal extracts through the skin, resulting in limited absorption of ECE via the skin, which affects the efficacy of ECE. The purpose of this study was to develop ECE encapsulated in transethosomes for improved skin penetration as a novel brightening and anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredient. Transethosomes were successfully developed using the sonication technique, with a suitable formulation including 1.00% (w/w) phosphatidylcholine, 0.10% (w/w) polysorbate 80 and 28.55% (v/v) ethanol. The physicochemical properties, encapsulation efficacy, in vitro skin permeation and toxicity of ECE-loaded transethosomes were also investigated. The result showed that the percentages of encapsulation of ECE loaded in transethosomes increased slightly with higher concentrations of the ECE. When compared to the liquid extract, the ECE loaded in transethosomes significantly increased (p < 0.05) skin penetration. Furthermore, ECE loaded with transethosomes showed low cytotoxicity in normal human dermal fibroblast cells and caused no skin irritation when evaluated on reconstructed human epidermal skin. Given these abilities, it is evident that transethosomes containing ECE are highly effective anti-aging and skin-whitening agents, making them a promising new cosmeceutical ingredient.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060198

Authors: Teo Mayayo Gabriella Russo Ana Leticia Jiménez-Escobar Noelia Pérez-González Beatriz Clares Adolfina Ruiz Lidia Tomás-Cobos Ana Valera Almudena Gómez-Farto Salvador Arias-Santiago Trinidad Montero-Vilchez

Olive mills produce pomace as a by-product of olive oil production process, which has a negative environmental impact. In this study, the dry extract of pomace (OG2), rich in polyphenols, was used for cosmetic purposes. The polyphenolic extract was encapsulated together with sh-oligopeptide-1 using cellulose fibres by spray-drying technology. Cytotoxicity and antistress cell studies were carried out using a modified cell line (THP1). Based on the results, a single, randomised, self-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the cream in thirty healthy volunteers. Statistical analysis was performed using a paired samples t-test. Skin moisture increased in the treated forearm (p-value < 0.000). There was an increase in elasticity in the treated forearm (p-value 0.042). TEWL decreased after one week of cream application (p-value 0.099). The results of this clinical study showed that the cream improved barrier function after one week of application on healthy skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060197

Authors: Ecem Bolat Zeynep Karagöz José Luiz de Brito Alves José Patrocínio Ribeiro Cruz Neto Anna Maria Witkowska Hesham El-Seedi Mauro Lombardo Sercan Karav

Skin is a crucial organ for preserving the body’s equilibrium. Like other parts of the body, skin also ages due to extrinsic and intrinsic factors, leading to several signs such as wrinkles, spots, and a decline in elasticity, causing a range of issues similar to those seen elsewhere in the body. Some of these factors include ultraviolet (UV) radiation, hormonal disorders, genetic factors, loss of moisture, metabolic disorders, exposure to chemicals, and smoking. Colostrum, which is the initial foremilk, has shown positive effects on the consequences of these factors. Its content is richer than mature milk and contains several beneficial components. For instance, it includes hyaluronic acid, a molecule that binds water and keeps the skin hydrated; lactoferrin, with high antimicrobial properties; immunoglobulins, which are responsible for immunity; growth factors, which increase the amount of collagen, the main protein type of the skin; and, finally, the telomerase enzyme, which maintains the telomere’s length and, thus, decelerates the aging process. It has recently become apparent that using skin products with natural ingredients is essential. Considering its nature, contents, and effects, colostrum stands out as an excellent material for the cosmetic industry, especially for the aging sector. Therefore, the aim of this review article is to demonstrate the potential application of natural colostrum in skin health and its usage in natural cosmetic products in the cosmetic sector.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060196

Authors: Sunehra Sayanhika Paulraj Mosae Selvakumar

Palmyra palm is a resourceful plant species that can be put to use in superabundance. Its extensive range of use stretches in all directions—making it useful for consumption in countless forms, and the cosmetic industry is not a deviation from this. In accordance with the beneficial molecules generated in it, such as polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and others, the addition of Palmyra raises incentives like reduction and microbe prevention when developed into therapeutic products. Therefore, the virtues of Palmyra fruit, sap, leaves, pulp, bark, haustoria and other parts are being diversely exploited in the beauty and health industry at present. To summarise the compass of Palmyra palm and its products in cosmetology and dermatology, an overview is drafted exploring the extant literature on the topic. Following the description of the available molecules, their adoption into skincare products and in vivo effects was analysed in this study. Aiming to highlight the prospects of Palmyra in skin and personal care formulations, this article discusses the span of its potential in light of its physicochemical attributes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060195

Authors: Monica Dinu Carmen Galea Ana Maria Chirilov Alin Laurențiu Tatu Lawrence Chukwudi Nwabudike Olimpia Dumitriu Buzia Claudia Simona Stefan

Animal venom and plant extracts have been used since ancient times in traditional medicine worldwide. Natural components, valued for their safety and effectiveness, have been consistently used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. We propose a journey along the boulevard of active compounds from natural sources, where bee venom (BV), cobra venom (CV), and Ficus carica reveal their individual therapeutic and cosmetic properties. The originality of this review lies in exploring the synergy of these bioactive sources, an approach that has not been presented in the literature. Although BV, CV, and Ficus carica have different origins and compositions, they have multiple common pharmacological and cosmetic actions, which make them ideal for inclusion in various products that can be used for skin care and health in general. Their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, immunomodulatory, antimicrobial, neuroprotective, and regenerative properties give them an essential role in the creation of potential innovative and effective products in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry. Although many plant extracts have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, Ficus carica was chosen due to its complex biochemical composition, which provides valuable benefits in skin regeneration and protection against oxidative stress. According to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), Ficus carica is used in the form of an extract of fruits, leaves, juice, bark or stem, each having specific applicability in topical formulations; due to the diversity of bioactive compounds, it can amplify the effectiveness of BV and CV, helping to enhance their beneficial effects and reducing the risk of adverse effects, due to its well-tolerated nature. Thus, this combination of natural ingredients opens up new perspectives in the development of innovative products, optimizing efficiency and maintaining a favorable safety profile. In this context, due to the reported experimental results, the three natural sources caught our attention, and we conceived the present work, which is a review made following the analysis of the current progress in the study of the bioactive compounds present in BV, CV, and Ficus carica. We focused on the novelties regarding pharmacological and cosmetic actions presented in the literature, and we highlighted the safety profile, as well as the modern approaches regarding the delivery and transport systems of the active substances from the three natural sources, and we evaluated their prospects in therapeutic and cosmetic use. This paper not only expands our knowledge of bioactive compounds, but it can also generate new ideas and motivations for the research and development of innovative treatments and skincare methods.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060194

Authors: Renato Pazzini Renata Viana Giseli Petrone

This article describes a technique for gluteal augmentation using cross-linked hyaluronic acid (HA) filler, with a focus on long-term patient follow-up. The rising demand for buttock enhancement driven by esthetic preferences has led to the exploration of minimally invasive alternatives to traditional surgical methods. Ultrasound imaging was utilised to evaluate the presence and distribution of HA filler over time. The patients reported satisfactory aesthetic improvements, with mild transient side effects. The findings highlight the technique’s effectiveness in achieving enhanced gluteal contour with a minimal volume of filler, demonstrating both safety and durability in the long term. This innovative approach may serve as a valuable option in aesthetic practises focused on body contouring.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060193

Authors: Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan Gabriel Hancu Aura Rusu

Acne vulgaris, the most prevalent skin disorder among teenagers and young adults, is often perceived as a moderate skin condition; however, it imposes a substantial economic and psychological burden on individuals and society. Microneedling emerges as a valuable therapeutic option for acne vulgaris. The procedure involves using fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen production and enhancing the skin’s natural healing processes. This minimally invasive technique effectively reduces acne lesions, improves skin texture, and increases collagen production with minimal adverse effects and downtime. This narrative review evaluates the efficacy and safety of microneedling procedures in treating acne vulgaris. A comprehensive research strategy was employed across various databases (PubMed, Google Scholar, Cochrane Library) to identify relevant studies. Inclusion criteria encompassed studies investigating microneedling procedures for acne, including controlled trials and case studies. Outcomes such as reduced acne lesions, improved skin texture, adverse effects, and patient satisfaction were analyzed. While further well-designed studies are warranted to elucidate optimal treatment protocols and long-term outcomes, current evidence supports the integration of microneedling into managing acne-prone skin. Moreover, the long-term consequences of microneedling in acne management remain an area for future research.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060192

Authors: Alexey E. Avdeev Valentin I. Sharobaro Arslan A. Penaev Anastasia S. Borisenko Elena V. Mitish Anna S. Bairamova

Introduction: Gold threads became widely used in esthetic surgery in the early 1990s. Produced in Spain, these threads consisted of a gold thread (5/0) with a diameter of 0.1 mm, composed of 99.99% pure gold, which was combined with a polyglycolic thread. Since then, discussions about their effectiveness have continued, which is the focus of our study. Patients and Methods: Gold thread implantation was performed on 11,062 patients in four clinics in Moscow over the course of 28 years. This study used a comparative analysis of photo collages created for the visual representation of data and changes before and after the procedure, as well as patient satisfaction assessments using the Patient Satisfaction Scale (PSS). We examined the results of 492 patients who underwent gold thread implantation in the face between 1996 and 2024. Of these patients, 86% were women aged 30 to 60 years, 11% were women aged 20 to 30 years, and 3% were men aged 25 to 60 years. Results: One year after thread implantation, the PSS assessment showed a 91% success rate with minimal complications. Patient satisfaction was high, with an average score of 4.8 out of 5 after one month, 4.7 after six months, and 4.6 after one-year post-procedure. Discussion: Gold thread implantation is a minimally invasive procedure that has demonstrated a high level of safety, making it an effective option for facial rejuvenation. Histological studies have shown that gold threads stimulate the production of collagen and elastin and activate angiogenesis, thereby improving skin nourishment and hydration, as well as enhancing the skin tone, elasticity, and turgor. To improve the qualitative characteristics of the skin, it is necessary to work in the subcutaneous layer. Conclusions: Gold thread implantation strengthens the connective tissue framework at the implantation site, thus improving skin nourishment and hydration. Gold threads provide a long-term rejuvenating effect, slowing the ptosis of the soft tissue of the face and neck. Gold thread implantation does not interfere with tissue dissection during surgical interventions or the performance of any cosmetic procedures, including hardware-based treatments.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060191

Authors: Ewelina Musielak Violetta Krajka-Kuźniak

Skin diseases are a common health problem affecting millions of people worldwide. Effective treatment often depends on the precise delivery of drugs to the affected areas. One promising approach is currently the transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS), whose significant challenge is the poor penetration of many compounds into the skin due to the stratum corneum (SC), which acts as a formidable barrier. To overcome this limitation, nanocarriers have emerged as a highly effective alternative. This review discusses the use of liposomes and ethosomes for transdermal drug delivery. Liposomes are micro- or nanostructures consisting of a lipid bilayer surrounding an aqueous core. They facilitate transdermal drug penetration and may be advantageous for site-specific targeting. Some methods of treating skin diseases involve incorporating drugs such as acyclovir, dithranol, and tretinoin or bioactive compounds such as fluconazole, melanin, glycolic acid, kojic acid, and CoQ10 into nanocarriers. The inability of liposomes to pass through the narrowed intercellular channels of the stratum corneum led to the invention of lipid-based vesicular systems such as ethosomes. They are structurally similar to conventional liposomes, as they are prepared from phospholipids, but they contain a high ethanol concentration. Ethosomes are noninvasive carriers that allow drugs to reach the deep layers of the skin. Examples of commonly used substances and drugs combined with ethosomes in cosmetics include methotrexate, ascorbic acid, vitamin A and E, and colchicine. A significant development in this area is the use of rutin-loaded ethosomes. Encapsulating rutin in ethosomes significantly improves its stability and enhances skin penetration, allowing more efficient delivery to deeper skin layers. In cosmetics, rutin–ethosome formulations are used to protect the skin from oxidative stress, reduce redness, and improve capillary strength, making it a valuable formulation in anti-aging and anti-inflammatory products. The results of the first clinical trial of the acyclovir–ethosome formulation confirm that ethosomes require further investigation. The work provides an update on recent advances in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications, mentioning the essential points of commercially available formulations, clinical trials, and patents in the recent past.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060190

Authors: Bei Chen Haiyan Tang Zhihui Liu Kun Qiao Xiaoting Chen Shuji Liu Nan Pan Tingru Chen Zhiyu Liu

The incidence of skin sensitivity issues in human populations has increased steadily because of external factors, such as environmental changes and emotional stress. Skin sensitivity refers to a state of skin hyperreactivity that occurs under certain physiological or pathological conditions. Sensitive skin may manifest as redness, itching, and pain and even trigger skin diseases, such as eczema or dermatitis, in severe cases. This review discusses the sensitization mechanisms and characteristics of sensitive skin, with a focus on symptom alleviation through three key strategies: skin-barrier repair, reduction in TRPV1 receptor activity, and anti-inflammatory interventions utilizing active substances. The findings will enhance public knowledge regarding sensitive skin, promote further research and practical prevention and treatment methods, and provide theoretical support for developing soothing cosmetic products for sensitive skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060189

Authors: Sang-Hun Song Byung Tack Lim Seong Kil Son

In order to reduce chronic hair flyaways/frizz, both reducing and oxidizing agents have to be used, leaving aside the hair damage issues. This study presents changes in hair morphology caused by treatment with a shampoo containing only reducing agents, excluding oxidizing agents that affect critical hair damages. As a result of flyaway/frizz improvement rates calculated through monitoring of the area of light transmittance in the hair tresses, reducing agents, such as ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), L-cysteine, and sodium sulfite were found to be effective in decreasing hair flyaway/frizz. Additionally, the methods to maintain homeostasis and control damage caused by oxidation during washing were also used to see flyaway/frizz improvement rates. Measurements using electrostatic force microscopy (EFM) showed that the surface charge of hair tresses treated with shampoo containing reducing agents was lowered. Using Raman spectroscopic analysis, it has been suggested that these treatments with reducing agents induced a 3D structural transition of the hair from an α-helix to a random coil. In addition, this structural release was confirmed, identifying the reduction in the enthalpy of the α-helix using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Furthermore, we verified that this change causes no hair damage through a tensile strength test. Therefore, the formulation of shampoo with reducing agents can be used as an effective strategy to care for hair flyaway/frizz without hair damage issues.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060187

Authors: María Antonia Martínez-Pascual Silvia Sacristán Elena Toledano-Macías María Luisa Hernández-Bule

Dermal papilla cells (DPCs) regulate the hair cycle and play important roles in hair growth and regeneration. Alopecia is a pathology caused by a deregulation in the hair cycle phases. Currently, the use of physical therapies such as radiofrequency (RF) as an alternative to pharmacological treatment is increasing. Electrical stimulation by capacitive resistive electrical transfer (CRET) is one of these therapies. The objective of the present study was to analyze the effect of RF-CRET currents on DPCs. Cells were treated with subthermal 448 kHz CRET currents with two different types of signals: standard (CRET-STD) or modulated (CRET-MOD). Viability (XTT Assay), proliferation (Ki67 and ERK1/2), apoptosis (p53 and caspase 3), differentiation (β-catenin and α-SMA), and anagen markers (versican and PPARγ) were analyzed by immunofluorescence and immunoblot. CRET caused effects on the proliferation and survival of DPCs associated with increases in the expression of p-MAPK-ERK1/2, cyclin D1, and decreases in the expression of p53 and caspase 3. Also, CRET caused significant transient increases in the expression of β-catenin, involved in hair growth, and in the expression of anagen phase markers such as versican and PPARγ related to hair follicle maintenance. The present study highlights the ability of treatment with CRET therapy to cause molecular alterations in DPC involved in hair regeneration.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060188

Authors: Enzo Berardesca Norma Cameli

Regenerative medicine has revolutionized the field of biological sciences, pharmacology and healthcare, bringing a new approach to treatments of various health conditions. Dermatology and aesthetic medicine are interested in these new scientific approaches as well. From this point of view, many areas of skin health and cosmetology may be involved, but several questions should be answered before these procedures become routine in offices and hospitals. Indeed scientific, ethical, and financial issues still have to be addressed in detail. Nevertheless, ongoing research and technological advancements are expected to further improve therapies. The integration of artificial intelligence and machine learning could enhance the precision of regenerative treatments, making them more effective and accessible in forthcoming years.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060186

Authors: Emna Chaabani Sarra Mgaidi Ameni Ben Abdennebi Sarra Dakhlaoui Majdi Hammami Sawssen Selmi Mohamed Zariat Abdessalem Shili Othmane Merah Iness Bettaieb Rebey

This study aimed to enhance antioxidant extraction from the aquatic plant Cymodocea nodosa for cosmetic formulation through optimized ultrasound-assisted extraction using response surface methodology. The optimized conditions—30 min of extraction time, 30% ultrasonic power, and 25% hydro-ethanolic solvent—resulted in a high total phenolic content of 113.07 mg EAG/g DM and antioxidant activity of 67.02%. Chromatographic analysis revealed a rich profile of phenolic compounds, including sinapic acid (0.741 mg/g), myricetin (0.62 mg/g), and quercetin-3-O-rutinoside (0.3 mg/g), demonstrating the extract’s potent therapeutic properties. While the extract exhibited limited anti-inflammatory activity, it showed no cytotoxic effects on RAW 267.4 cells, ensuring its safety for cosmetic applications. The formulated cream maintained stable pH (6.58 to 6.6), consistent viscosity (5966.38 to 5980.6 cp), and minimal color changes over a 30-day period, indicating robust stability across various temperatures (4 °C, 25 °C, and 40 °C). These results confirm the potential of C. nodosa extracts to develop effective, stable, and eco-friendly cosmetic products, offering substantial benefits for skin health and emphasizing the importance of sustainable extraction processes in the cosmetics industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060185

Authors: Dorota Sołdacka Wioletta Barańska-Rybak

Background: Skin is the largest organ in the human body. Some skin parameters like moisturization and sebum secretion play a vital role in the skin’s functioning. This study aims to assess the effects of topical chemical peels of different concentrations and pH, applied manually and with ultrasounds, on the level of hydration, erythema, pigmentation, and sebum secretion of the skin. Methods: The study involved 90 Caucasian females, aged 25 to 59, with dry, dehydrated skin, skin with erythema or pigmentation disorders. The patients were randomly divided into three equal groups. The subjects from Group A were applied 10% mandelic acid with 25% gluconolactone of pH 4.0 manually. In Group B, 40% mandelic acid of pH 1.5 was used. The subjects from Group C were applied 10% mandelic acid with 25% gluconolactone of pH 4.0 via sonophoresis. A series of six procedures in weekly intervals was performed. Skin functional parameters (skin hydration, erythema, and melanin indicators) were taken before the first procedure, after 14 days, 28 days, and 42 days. Results: In Group A, the level of moisturization of the skin increased statistically significantly (p = 0.0100) however, the sebum secretion and erythema did not change. In Group B, the level of moisturization improved statistically significantly, as well as erythema (p = 0.0001). Sebum secretion in the final measurement increased. The moisturization and erythema in Group C did not differ statistically significantly. On the other hand, the sebum secretion increased significantly. Conclusions: Very superficial chemical peels significantly alter selected skin parameters. AHAs and PHAs applied using the ultrasound method do not affect the level of hydration, erythema, or pigmentation of the skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060184

Authors: Daniela Vieira Joana Duarte Pedro Vieira Maria Beatriz S. Gonçalves Ana Figueiras Alka Lohani Francisco Veiga Filipa Mascarenhas-Melo

Cosmetic products have been increasingly regulated, particularly in Europe. With the introduction of the cosmetic regulation in 2013, stricter quality standards were implemented, surpassing those set by the 1976 legislation. The primary objective of these regulations is to safeguard consumer safety during the use of cosmetic products. Despite these advancements, certain regulatory gaps remain, indicating the need for more effective measures to enhance human and environmental health protection. Considering the aforementioned, this work aims to provide an overview of the current Cosmetics Regulation, highlighting the weakest cornerstones that represent the missing link keeping the core objective from being achieved. While there is ongoing reliance on historical data from animal studies, efforts are actively underway to replace these methods with new new approach methodologies for risk assessment. Additionally, regulatory authorities continue to improve environmental considerations in the assessment process. These measures, along with enhanced surveillance systems, are gradually addressing existing gaps and contributing to a more robust regulatory framework that balances market access with consumer safety. Legally non-compliant—or perhaps compliant but unknowingly dangerous—products may be used by people who relativize them as inherently safe, leading to adverse events. Whether caused by an underlying disease or purely by the chemical’s toxicity, these may never come to the attention of the authorities as they are generally under-reported, making it unfeasible to implement corrective or preventive measures to address their root cause. To illustrate, non-compliant products that have been detected by the Portuguese authority, INFARMED, I. P., from January 2018 to September 2023 are discussed, which were found to be potentially dangerous to human health and, therefore, withdrawn from the market.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060183

Authors: Deborah B. Oladele Ewa Markiewicz Olusola C. Idowu

Human hair is characterised by variability, determined by genetic and macromolecular factors. Whilst the European hair type has been a focus of extensive research, Afro-textured hair care faces challenges created by insufficient knowledge of its properties. Applications of hair care products that are incompatible with Afro-textured hair frequently have detrimental effects on the scalp. This highlights the need for partnerships to bridge the gap between research and hair care practices and address challenges related to Afro-textured hair. In this review, we performed data mining of the existing literature and in silico network analysis of the biomarkers relevant to Afro-textured hair. The approaches to hair maintenance are highlighted in the context of hair anatomy and growth cycles, organisation of keratins, surface lipids, and chemical bonds. We discuss a range of biomarkers affecting hair fibre’s shape and mechanical strength, with the gene interactive network pointing to the hierarchical organisation of important traits, notably hair shaft diameter, keratinization, and hair follicle patterning, which likely contribute to the increased sensitivity of hair to extrinsic factors. We propose that a better understanding of the genetic traits, molecular structure, and biomechanics of Afro-textured hair is required to initiate more effective hair care solutions that would benefit the wider population.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050182

Authors: Lusi Nurdianti Fajar Setiawan Ira Maya Taofik Rusdiana Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan Dolih Gozali Dewi Peti Virgianti

Reactive oxygen species (ROS), commonly known as free radicals, induced by UV radiation can compromise the dermal structure, leading to a loss of skin elasticity and subsequent wrinkle formation. A promising strategy to prevent and mitigate skin aging involves the use of topical formulations with potent antioxidant properties. Secondary metabolites such as astaxanthin and zeaxanthin are known for their robust antioxidant activities, which surpass those of tocopherol, offering significant benefits for skin health and protection against UV-induced damage. These properties suggest their potential application in anti-aging products. This study aims to evaluate the stability, ex vivo penetration, and in vivo efficacy of a radiance serum containing an astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE) designed as an anti-wrinkle agent for topical application. The research was conducted in four stages: production of the astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsion (AZ-NE), formulation of the AZ-NE radiance serum, stability, and efficacy testing. In this study, the formulated radiance serum demonstrated stability over three months under specified storage conditions. Ex vivo penetration studies indicated efficient diffusion of the active ingredients, with astaxanthin showing a penetration rate of 25.95%/cm2 and zeaxanthin at 20.80%/cm2 after 120 min. In vivo irritation tests conducted on human subjects revealed no adverse effects. Moreover, the serum exhibited substantial anti-wrinkle efficacy, with 15 female participants experiencing a wrinkle reduction of 80% to 93% over a 28-day period.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050181

Authors: Daniela Batovska Anelia Gerasimova Krastena Nikolova

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds like flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins, jujube extracts exhibit notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing properties. These qualities have made jujube a popular ingredient in various skin and hair care formulations. The versatility of jujube extracts, along with their synergy with other herbal active ingredients, enables the development of targeted personal care solutions. These solutions address a range of concerns, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects, as well as promoting hair health. Despite its potential, research on the cosmetic applications of Z. jujuba is still in its early stages, with only one clinical trial to date focusing on its skin-brightening effects. This review aims to consolidate the current and emerging research on the applications of jujube in conventional and medical cosmetics, highlighting its potential in enhancing skin and hair wellness. By providing a comprehensive overview, it seeks to pave the way for further studies and innovations in utilizing jujube for personal care.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050180

Authors: Júlia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso Myriam Emiko Takahashi Luísa Taynara Silvério da Costa Debora Barros Barbosa Bruno Araújo Soares Wellington Ricardo Pereira Martins Natália Alves Zoppe Joana Marques Maria P. M. Marques Aida Moreira da Silva Maria João Barroca Valdecir Farias Ximenes João Tadeu Ribeiro-Paes Lucinéia dos Santos

Brazil is the largest producer in the world of the species Agave sisalana, sisal. The residue of the sisal, which is the result of the extraction of fibers from its leaves, represents 95% of its weight. Considering that sisal leaves have high concentrations of sapogenins and aiming at a future phytotherapeutic, in this study, the alcoholic fraction of sisal, AFS, was developed, and the sapogenins were characterized. In vitro, the cytotoxicity (MTT) and the anti-inflammatory effect of AFS (phagocytosis and hemolysis inhibition) were evaluated. In vivo, the analgesic (formalin test—FT) and anti-inflammatory (paw edema test—PET) activities of AFS, orally, and the cream containing AFS, topical, were analyzed. The results demonstrated that AFS contains hecogenin and tigogenin and is not cytotoxic. In vitro, 0.5, 1, and 2 mg/mL of AFS showed anti-inflammatory activity similar to the positive control (PC). In the FT, the dose of 25 mg/kg did not differ from the PC in the neurogenic phase (p > 0.05). In the PET, 25 and 50 mg/kg of AFS differed from the negative control (NC) (p < 0.05), and the cream with AFS (5 mg/g) showed activity similar to the PC. The therapeutic activities of AFS probably result from sapogenins. In the future, we expect to develop an anti-inflammatory from the thousands of tons of sisal waste discarded in Brazil.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050179

Authors: Muhammad K. Al-Bakaa Fatimah K. Khalaf

Inflammatory acne vulgaris (IAV) is a common skin condition characterized by the presence of reddish, inflamed, and painful lesions on the skin. IAV can drastically affect individuals, specifically their self-esteem, psychological health, and quality of their life in general. Despite new advances in the field, traditional treatment modalities withstand many challenges. Hence, in the current study, we sought to assess the efficacy and safety of a new pulsed wave mode of the fractional microneedling radiofrequency device in the treatment of IAV. This advanced technique employs insulated microneedles to administer energy to the deep dermis without causing damage to the epidermis. Eighty patients (40 males, 40 females, age 21 ± 3, Fitzpatrick skin type III and IV), with acne severity ranging from moderate to severe, were employed in this trial. They were randomly assigned into two groups, 40 patients each. The treated group (A) underwent four sessions of fractionated microneedle RF, 1.5-month apart, whereas group B was designated as the control group that received placebo treatment. Six months following the last session, the degree of improvement assessed by the quantity of IAV lesions and the overall skin appearance in terms of facial pores, sebum excretion, scar, skin tone, and texture. The RF-treated group showed significant improvement compared to the control group after the follow-up period (p-value = 0.0071). Regarding safety, very mild adverse effects were reported, such as discomfort during the session, pinpoint hemorrhage, and erythema, with no major side effects such as burns, scarring, hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation were reported. Thus, our data suggest a potential role of the fractional microneedling radiofrequency device in IAV treatment that is both effective and safe.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050178

Authors: Kanyarat Pohntadavit Suwit Duangmano Mallika Osiriphan Noppol Leksawasdi Charin Techapun Nutsuda Sumonsiri Sarana Rose Sommano Pornchai Rachtanapun Rojarej Nunta Julaluk Khemacheewakul

Green soybean (Glycine max L.) seed contains a high procyanidin content and high antioxidant activity. Moreover, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) has proved to be advantageous in providing high extraction efficiency. Hence, this study aimed to extract procyanidins from green soybean seeds (GSSs) using UAE. This study also evaluated the inhibitory activities of tyrosinase and the cytotoxic effects of crude procyanidin extract. The extract exhibited maximum levels of bioactive components and antioxidant capacity when subjected to a temperature of 15 °C and an extraction time of 20 min. The crude procyanidin extract at a concentration of 10 mg/mL inhibited the tyrosinase enzyme by more than 60%, and the half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) value obtained for the extract was 6.85 ± 0.81 mg/mL. This result was much greater than the IC50 value obtained for kojic acid (0.089 ± 0.08 mg/mL), which was used as a positive control. For the cytotoxicity assessment, the results indicated that the crude procyanidin extract showed no cytotoxicity and actually stimulated the growth of human skin fibroblast cells. More than 80% of the bioactive compounds (total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), procyanidin content (PC)) and antioxidant activities (DPPH and FRAP) of the crude extract powder were retained at 38.68 ± 0.01 mg GAE/g, 16.07 ± 0.01 mg CAE/g, 9.24 ± 0.01 mg PC/g, 359.8 ± 0.72 μM Trolox eq/g, and 1640 ± 2.86 μM Trolox eq/g, respectively, after 12 weeks of storage at 25 °C. The crude procyanidin extract powder was then included in a facial serum formulation and tested for pH value and physical evaluation. The stability of the crude procyanidin extract facial serum was shown to be greater for bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity when stored at a temperature of 4 °C than when stored at a temperature of 25 °C. These results suggest that the GSS extracts obtained via ultrasonication show promise for use in cosmeceutical formulations for whitening skincare products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050177

Authors: Hye Won Lim Hyunwoo Joo Chae Young Jeon Yurim Lee Mujun Kim Jung Un Shin Jinsick Kim SoonRe Kim Sanghwa Lee Dong Chul Lim Hee Dong Park Byung Cheol Park Dong Wook Shin

Prostaglandin D2 (PGD2) levels are high in the balding areas of human scalps, and PGD2 has been found to inhibit hair growth. It is known that the inhibition of the PGD2 receptor can promote hair growth by preventing hair follicles from entering the catagen phase. Thus, we identified an antagonist of DP2, the receptor for PGD2, as a potential treatment for hair loss using an AI-based DeepZema® drug development program. In this study, we identified that the DP2 antagonist (DP2A) could ameliorate alopecia in human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) that were stimulated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a known molecule related to hair loss. We observed that the DP2A promoted wound healing efficiency and increased alkaline phosphatase levels in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. In addition, we found that the DP2A diminished the reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels generated in the DHT-damaged HFDPCs. We confirmed that the DP2A effectively recovered the membrane potential of mitochondria in these cells. We also demonstrated that the DP2A enhanced the phosphorylation levels of both Akt and ERK in the HFDPCs that were damaged with DHT. Notably, we revealed that the DP2A slightly enlarged the three-dimensional spheroid size in these cells and confirmed that the DP2A improved hair growth in the organ culture of human hair follicles. Taken together, we suggest that DP2A has therapeutic effects on HFDPCs that are damaged by DHT and holds promise as a potential treatment for treating hair loss.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050176

Authors: Georgiana Albina Căiță Florica Voiță-Mekeres Florian Bodog Cosmin Mircea Vieriu Daniela Margareta Varga Mariana Racoviță Gheorghe Szilagyi Felicia Manole

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, and psychopathological implications leading to the acceptance of invasive or non-invasive aesthetic interventions. The study included 281 participants aged 18–66 years, divided into three groups: non-invasive cosmetic surgery (NICS), invasive and non-invasive cosmetic surgery (INICS), and individuals who had not undergone cosmetic surgery (NCS). Participants were randomly selected from patients visiting plastic surgery services and various medical services in Oradea, Romania, between October 2022 and March 2024. The BCSS comprises 20 items with Likert-type responses, ranging from one to five. The Multidimensional Scale of Perceived Social Support (MSPSS) was used to measure perceived social support. The BCSS aims to elucidate the patient’s desire for aesthetic procedures, whether it stems from an impulsive act, warrants a longer decision-making period, or necessitates addressing psychological or psychiatric conditions before scheduling the procedure. The scale enables cosmetic surgeons to assess whether the patient has been adequately informed and understands the risks and complications associated with the cosmetic surgical procedure.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050175

Authors: Alina Koshkinbayeva Alina Ogizbayeva Olga Ponamareva Bauyrzhan Omarkulov Yana Yutskovskaya

The purpose of this research was to assess the effectiveness of PRP injections into facial skin and to identify which of the studied blood parameters can affect the effectiveness of the procedure. The research involved 50 women aged 20 to 52 years who received intradermal PRP injections into facial skin. A general examination, complete blood count, and d-dimer, estradiol, and insulin in the blood serum were measured before the procedure, and assessment of the skin’s condition using a facial skin analyzer, assessment of midface volume changes using the Midface Volume Deficit Scale, assessment of aesthetic improvement by the doctor and the patient (Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, GAIS) before and 1 month after the procedure were conducted for all the subjects involved in the research. According to the GAIS, both from the doctor’s and the patients’ perspectives, the majority noted some improvement in the skin condition after the procedure; however, according to the skin analyzer data, there were no statistically significant changes. A total of 56% of the patients displayed improvement in the midface volume, and this was observed in patients with a lower blood platelet count (≤259 × 109/L) and a higher level of estradiol (>99 pg/mL) before the procedure. No undesirable effects were detected after the procedure.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050174

Authors: Peter Mayser Florian Genrich Laura Meunier Steffen Nordzieke

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation to in vivo efficacy. Since zinc pyrithione has been banned from cosmetics in the EU, the medium-chain fatty acid ester propanediol caprylate is a new option, in addition to the remaining conventional ingredients: piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid. The ester is rapidly cleaved by Malassezia hydrolases in the external milieu, thereby releasing active caprylic acid. In addition to its auto-regulatory effects on Malassezia, propanediol caprylate is also able to influence the bacterial microbiota towards a healthier scalp microbiome. In vivo data have shown an efficacy comparable to climbazole and piroctone olamine. In vivo additive and synergistic effects in different combinations allow reductions in the concentration of conventional agents. Surprisingly, a new effect of a lasting healthier scalp has been identified in connection with ester use, in contrast to the usual return of dandruff experienced upon the discontinuation of anti-dandruff shampoo with conventional actives. We also report on new data from an unpublished comparative study on two propanediol monoesters confirming the long-lasting effect.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050173

Authors: Nadezhda Ivanova Neli Ermenlieva Velichka Andonova

The current research is focused on the discovery and optimization of an effective cosmetic carrier of alpha-bisabolol as a first step in the development of a cosmetic product with cleansing and antimicrobial action for facial skin hygiene. A micellar solution of Poloxamer 407 was selected as a cosmetic base because of the good washing ability, easy application, and high tolerability of this polymeric surfactant. The solubilization capacity of a 5% micellar solution with respect to α-bisabolol was investigated by applying varying solubilization techniques and increasing concentrations of the oily active substance. The test samples were subjected to an accelerated physical stability test, viscosimetry, dynamic light scattering (DLS), electrophoretic light scattering (ELS), foamability test, and antimicrobial screening. Over the course of this research, the advantage of the film-hydration method over direct solubilization was demonstrated by the narrower size distribution and smaller hydrodynamic size of the micellar nano-carriers (ranging from 29.02 to 116.5 nm) and the respective higher physical stability of the dispersions. The optimized composition was found to be suitable for application on large skin areas in terms of viscosity in the temperature range from 20 °C to 40 °C (3.4–2.3 mPa.s). Preservation of the washing capacity of the micellar solution in the presence of solubilized α-bisabolol was established. The active composition demonstrated inhibitory activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and fungicidal activity against Candida albicans. This study concludes that the optimal concentration of α-bisabolol to be solubilized in a 5% Poloxamer 407 micellar solution by the film-hydration technique is 1%, considering the desirable physical endurance and antimicrobial activity.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050172

Authors: Arnold Marisa Wisdom Shadrach Kerrie Holohan Abed Alkarem Abu Alhaija Emer Gilligan Jill Sommerville Niall Burke Tim Yeomans

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the efficiency of a water-based cleansing wipe, WaterWipes® (WaterWipes, UC, Drogheda, Ireland), for removing synthetic faecal matter (FecloneTM, SiliClone Creations LLC, Havertown, PA, United States) and Escherichia coli (NCTC 10538) from volunteers’ skin, the former using a dermal analytical device called the Antera 3DTM camera (Miravex Ltd., Dublin, Ireland), and the latter using standard microbiological methods. FecloneTM was applied to participants’ forearms and the Antera 3DTM camera captured detailed images of the skin surface before and after wiping. The Antera 3DTM camera approach was found to be effective in measuring cleaning efficiency, with the wipe removing all detectable traces of the FecloneTM applied. The total pore area (mm2), pore count, and total pore volume (mm3) in test participants post-wiping were observed to be reduced on average by 39.05%, 34.39%, and 39.98%, respectively. The wipe removed 99.99% of E. coli (NCTC 10538) applied, as measured using the microbial plate count method. In conclusion, the Antera 3DTM camera method was observed to be effective in evaluating removal of topically applied FecloneTM.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050171

Authors: Seo Yeon Shin Nu Ri Song Mee Hyun Lee Kyung Mok Park

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular mechanisms of action of galloyl–RGD on UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts-neonatal (HDF-n). Galloyl–RGD increased collagen synthesis by inhibiting UVB-induced MMP-1 via inhibiting extracellular signal-regulated kinase and Jun N-terminal kinase and their downstream mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling, which are known to be representative photoaging mechanisms. The results of this study will be helpful for understanding the anti-photoaging effect and mechanism of galloyl–RGD and its future applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050170

Authors: Maria Pilar Vinardell Adriana Solange Maddaleno Montserrat Mitjans

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050169

Authors: Jorge Raymundo-Rodríguez Julio Buendía-Espinoza Rosa García-Núñez Elisa Martínez-Ochoa

Forest wealth, combined with innovative cosmetic applications, allows for the use of non-timber forest products like copal resin, diversifying resource use, promoting sustainable practices, preserving ecosystems, and generating income. The aim of this study was to evaluate a facial cream and a body gel formulated with essential oil extracted from copal resin obtained from agroforestry systems to determine their quality and consumer acceptance. Copal resin was collected from a silvopastoral system in Izúcar de Matamoros, Puebla, Mexico. Protocols were developed to ensure quality, safety, and efficacy, adhering to Mexican official standards, and accelerated stability tests were conducted to determine shelf life. Microbiological and irritability tests were performed to assess safety. Hedonic tests along with a random forest model were employed to identify the most important characteristics for consumer acceptance. The results indicated that both products met quality parameters regarding color, aroma, viscosity, and pH, and exhibited a shelf life of two years. Both products were free from harmful microorganisms, making them suitable for human application. Hydration, aroma, spreadability, and irritability were the most crucial variables for achieving higher consumer acceptance. Cosmetics can be formulated with copal resin essential oil.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050168

Authors: Sarah Hsin Kelly Lourenço Alexandre Porcello Cíntia Marques Clara Rodriguez Wassim Raffoul Corinne Scaletta Philippe Abdel-Sayed Basste Hadjab Lee Ann Applegate Alexis Laurent

Facial hyperpigmentation is a highly prevalent dermatological condition, characterized by dark spots on the skin resulting from excess melanin production. Hyperpigmentation significantly impacts patients’ quality of life and self-esteem. Current treatments often present disadvantages linked to poor product tolerability. A topical cosmetic approach combining three lightening active ingredients (tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C) offers a new option for treating dark spots on the skin. The present in-use test under dermatological control evaluated the clinical safety and efficacy of a cream and serum containing these three ingredients, formulated with hyaluronic acid for enhanced delivery, stability, and efficacy. A total of 22 Caucasian patients with facial hyperpigmentation, both male and female, aged between 45 and 67 years, applied the cream and serum for 8 weeks. Clinical assessments, colorimetric evaluations, standardized photography, and self-assessment questionnaires were used to measure outcomes. No serious adverse effects were recorded, and the incidence of local adverse effects was low, highlighting good tolerability of the investigated test items. In most participants, significant improvements in hyperpigmented areas were recorded. Clinical scoring by the dermatologist investigator indicated a statistically significant 13% reduction in color intensity and a 6% reduction in the size of dark spots after 8 weeks of treatment. Colorimetric evaluation showed a statistically significant 1% increase in luminosity (L* parameter) and an 8% improvement in the Individual Typological Angle (ITA°) in endpoint, indicating lighter skin spots. Subjective assessments reflected high user satisfaction, with 95% of participants noting improvements in skin hydration and luminosity, and 77% reporting a reduced appearance of dark spots. Overall, the present work supports the use of tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C as an effective and well-tolerated combined topical management option for hyperpigmentation. This combination offers a viable alternative to classical whiteners for individuals seeking to reduce facial skin coloration imbalance and improve skin tone.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050167

Authors: Julia Baumann Valentine Vocat Kathrin Nowak Fred Zülli Chennakesava Cuddapah Franziska Wandrey

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is compromised with aging. This study investigated the impact of aging on dermal stem cells and explored the potential of natural extracts in modulating their biological characteristics. Using bulk RNA barcoding and sequencing (BRB-seq), we identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between young and aged dermal stem cells, revealing alterations in cellular processes, including cell proliferation, ECM synthesis, and RNA splicing. We also demonstrated that a natural extract, comprising callus cells and Alpine rose leaf extracts, influenced RNA splicing in aged dermal stem cells, leading to improved dermal structure and integrity in vitro. Our findings suggest that natural extracts may exert their effects through senolytic activity and the modulation of RNA splicing, a process crucial to gene expression and cellular function. This study underscores the potential of integrating high-throughput transcriptomics in understanding skin aging, presenting new avenues for the development of innovative, sustainable, and effective anti-aging strategies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050166

Authors: Konstantin Press Noa Hadar Ella Sklan Alon Meir Gregory Idelson Tanya Karakouz Miriam Gubelbank Ali Abu Znaid Shlomzion Shen

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of self-assembled proteins characterized by a porous structure for delivering active ingredients safely to the skin. The study utilized in vitro and ex vivo methods to assess SVX’s ability to protect against oxidative stress, enhance skin hydration, and support ingredient delivery. Safety assays, including the HET-CAM, patch test, and HRIPT, demonstrated that SVX is non-irritating and safe for topical application. Additionally, FTIR analysis confirmed SVX’s capacity for sustained release of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, over an 8 h period. Results showed that SVX significantly improved skin barrier protection and exhibited superior antioxidant properties compared to control formulations. Its biocompatibility, along with a vegan and biodegradable composition, aligns with the principles of sustainability, with over 60% biodegradability achieved within 10 days. Furthermore, SVX displayed antioxidant efficacy approximately 130 times greater than L-ascorbic acid, based on DPPH assay results. These findings suggest that SVX offers a versatile and sustainable solution for skincare formulations, combining environmental responsibility with benefits for skin health and performance.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050165

Authors: Rafael Zago Sá Fortes Juliana Cassol Spanemberg Karen Cherubini Fernanda Gonçalves Salum

Objective: The aim of this study was to systematically review the safety and effectiveness of the injectable biostimulators dermal fillers calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and polycaprolactone (PCL) in facial esthetic procedures. Materials and Methods: Comprehensive electronic searches were executed across six academic databases. The primary outcome focused on safety by examining studies that reported the incidence of adverse events (AEs). The secondary outcome gauged the satisfaction of the patients and injectors by validated esthetic scales. To evaluate biases, the Joanna Briggs Institute Checklist tools were employed. Results: We included a total of 79 studies. In the quantitative assessment of the CaHA, out of 5032 injected patients, 21.8% manifested early AEs, 0.85% experienced delayed reactions, and 0.27% had severe complications. Within the PCL group, consisting of 1119 patients, 83.3% exhibited early AEs, 5.6% had delayed reactions, and none had serious complications. Regarding esthetic satisfaction outcome, both products presented favorable results, but a limited number of studies assessed these data. In the studies evaluated qualitatively, a broad array of AEs were cataloged. Conclusions: The occurrence of serious AEs associated with CaHA and PCL fillers is relatively low. Both CaHA and PCL fillers exhibit favorable safety profiles, with most AEs being transient in nature.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050164

Authors: Kar Wai Alvin Lee Lisa Kwin Wah Chan Angela Wai Kay Lee Cheuk Hung Lee Jovian Wan Kyu-Ho Yi

(1) Background: The demand for body-contouring procedures has surged, with lipolysis emerging as a common technique for excess fat removal. Laser-assisted lipolysis (LAL) has gained attention as a potential alternative to surgical fat removal (SFR), offering perceived advantages in safety and efficacy. However, the comparative benefits of LAL and SFR remain uncertain. (2) Objective: To conduct a review of the existing literature comparing the efficacy, safety, and patient satisfaction of LAL and SFR. (3) Methods: A comprehensive search of major electronic databases was conducted to identify studies comparing LAL and SFR for body-contouring procedures. Studies were included if they were published in English, involved human subjects, and reported outcomes for LAL and SFR. All studies were classified according to the Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine evidence hierarchy (4) Results: LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR. However, the evidence for these differences was limited by the quality of the studies and the heterogeneity of the results. (5) Conclusions: This review suggests that LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR for body-contouring procedures because LAL is associated with higher risks of complications such as burns and scarring, whereas SFR offers a more established safety profile and consistent efficacy.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050163

Authors: Miljan Adamovic Ana Adamovic Marijana Andjic Jovana Dimitrijevic Nebojsa Zdravkovic Olivera Kostic Danijela Pecarski Teodora Pecarski Dusica Obradovic Marina Tomovic

This review aims to provide a detailed overview of the botanical, phytochemical, and dermatological properties of Juglans regia (J. regia). The entire tree contains a wealth of chemical compounds, including phenols, tannins, alkaloids, saponins, reducing sugars, and amino acids, which contribute to its significant nutritional and pharmacological value. Extracts and oils from all parts of J. regia have been studied for their effects on various skin conditions, demonstrating antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, and chemoprotective properties. Additionally, these substances have shown potential in promoting wound healing, anti-aging, skin hydration, anti-tyrosinase activity, and hair dyeing. These benefits have been evaluated in various in vitro and in vivo studies. The therapeutic potential of J. regia suggests that its components could be integrated into treatment protocols and skincare routines. However, to optimize effectiveness and safety, future research should focus on in vivo studies in human subjects to determine the ideal concentrations and formulations of J. regia active compounds for specific skin conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050162

Authors: Pedro Antônio de Souza Rolim Isabela Araguê Catanoze Julia Amanda Rodrigues Fracasso Debora Barros Barbosa Lucineia dos Santos Valdecir Farias Ximenes Aimée Maria Guiotti

The present study aimed to analyze the antifungal, antioxidant, and irritant potential of citronella oil, both isolated and combined with caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), for topical oral candidiasis. The antioxidant potential was evaluated using two methods, the DPPH test and the reducing power test (FRAP), while the irritant potential of the solutions was assessed through the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). The DPPH test (IC50) values for the CITRO III + CAPE III combination were 32 ± 9 mg/mL, and for isolated CAPE, 13 ± 3 mg/mL. The results from the FRAP method revealed a low iron-reducing power for the combination of 1.25 mg/mL of citronella and 0.0775 mg/mL of CAPE (CITRO III + CAPE III), showing no significant difference compared to the isolated solution of 0.15 mg/mL of CAPE. The antibacterial activity of CAPE and isolated citronella in vitro against microorganisms was evaluated using two methods: microdilution and biofilm assay. The results showed that the MIC and MFC values were 0.5 mg/mL for citronella at both tested times (24 h and 48 h). For CAPE, the MFC values were 0.031 mg/mL. For the biofilm assay, the isolated compounds and combinations at 1 min and 6 h showed significantly different results from the controls (p < 0.05). Furthermore, the HET-CAM results demonstrated the absence of irritability. Based on these premises, the antifungal and antioxidant actions, and absence of irritability were proven. Moreover, this work presents a natural antifungal of interest to the pharmaceutical industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050161

Authors: Roberto Rocca Daniele Perossa Luca Fumagalli

Economic and environmental issues translating into energy costs and pollution within the production environment are increasingly attracting attention. Industrial Energy Efficiency (IEE) is gaining ever-higher importance within production environments. Since cosmetic consumers and companies are becoming increasingly sensitive to sustainability, the cosmetic field is working to reduce the environmental and social impact along the whole supply chain. Furthermore, IEE actions in business processes can lead to several medium- and long-term economic and environmental benefits. This paper is the first work in the literature presenting a real-case application of energy analysis and modeling to achieve better energy performances in a cosmetics production process. Thus, in the body of knowledge, it contributes by providing a real case of good practice to be benchmarked for future IEE interventions in cosmetics manufacturing processes. The work has been conducted by analyzing the production process’s energy consumption and developing an energy model of a selected machine (i.e., a turbo-emulsifier). The analysis and modeling performed aimed at assessing the different operational phases of the machine and evaluating the different behaviors of the data. Finally, the results allowed us to propose possible improvements to be applied to the production process to achieve better energy performances.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050160

Authors: Eleni Andreou Sophia Hatziantoniou Efstathios Rallis Vasiliki Kefala

Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular form of tattooing applied to the eyebrows, eyelids, and lips for corrective and aesthetic purposes. It also has medical applications, such as reconstructing the breast areola, mimicking hair follicles on the head, and covering scars and vitiligo. Unlike body tattoos, PMU often requires reapplication to maintain color density and shape, as the pigments fade over time. This fading is likely due to the characteristics of PMU colorants rather than the application methods or apparatuses. The aim of our study was to assess the application depth of PMU colorants and tattoo ink after procedures. PMU colorants typically contain larger pigment particles in their composition compared to the nanoparticles found in traditional tattoo inks. We applied both tattoo ink and PMU colorants on SKH-1 mice using a PMU apparatus and a tattoo apparatus. To clarify the semi-permanent nature of PMU compared to the more permanent body tattoos, skin biopsies were performed at various intervals throughout this study. The results showed that PMU and tattoo ink were placed at approximately the same depth but exhibited key differences in behavior. PMU with larger inorganic pigments fades over time, while tattoos with smaller, stable organic pigments ensure permanence.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050159

Authors: Alan D. Widgerow Mary E. Ziegler Faiza Shafiq

Introduction: This study was conducted to question the findings of a prior study published in Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDD) in September 2023, which reported that a topical firming and toning body lotion (FTB—SkinMedica®, Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, CA, USA) upregulated several genes in a UV-irradiated 3D full-thickness human skin model, outperforming other products, including TransFORM Body Treatment with TriHex Technology® (ATF—Alastin Skincare®, a Galderma company, Fort Worth, TX, USA). Given the unique response reported for FTB, we conducted this study to assess the reproducibility of these results and explore gene expression at multiple time points, along with validating protein expression in an ex vivo model. Materials and Methods: Experiments were conducted using an ex vivo model with photodamaged skin from facelift patients, under an Institutional Review Board-approved study. Skin samples were processed, cultured in transwells with Skin Media, and treated daily with either TransFORM or FTB for 7 days. A control group was left untreated. Gene expression was assessed using RT-PCR on days 1 and 3 and using immunofluorescence after 3 and 7 days of treatment. Skin samples were fixed, paraffin-embedded, sectioned, and stained with an anti-tropoelastin antibody. Fluorescence detection and imaging were conducted to assess protein expression changes. Results: Gene expression data from our study and the initial study showed a few similarities but multiple discrepancies. As opposed to results previously reported at only the 24 h time point, our study was completed at multiple time points and showed a complete reversal of many of these results. For example, COL1A1 expression at 24 h was similar for FTB in both studies but differed for TransFORM, which showed higher levels at 24 h in our study. At day 3, COL1A1 expression decreased markedly for FTB and was sustained for TransFORM. Other genes, such as COL3A1, COL5, ELN, VEGFC, ATG7, ATG12, BECN1, POMP, PSMB5, and PSMB6, exhibited varying expression patterns between the two studies and across different time points. From a translational perspective, histological analysis showed that TransFORM enhanced elastin fiber presence in the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) more effectively than FTB at both days 3 and 7. FTB-treated samples maintained a gap in the DEJ, while TransFORM-treated samples exhibited increased cellular proliferation and DEJ undulation, indicative of a healthier regenerative response. Conclusion: This study highlights the problems of examining data and drawing conclusions using a single point of examination. In addition, when a study reports positive results for only one product among a range of eight competitive products, further questioning is essential to exclude the possibility of the experimental model favoring that product. The additional 3-day time point and further translational examination of histological changes paint a completely different picture to that reported in the prior publication. TransFORM outperformed FTB in most gene expressions and histological parameters when assessed over multiple time points in a physiologically relevant ex vivo model.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050158

Authors: Sojung Won Jane Melissa Lim Jin Hwan Lee Young J. Oh Jin-Hee Shin Byoung Joo Gwag Eui-Ju Choi

Oxidative stress is a primary contributor to human skin aging, while antioxidants are known to mitigate skin damage related to aging processes. In this study, we investigated the possible action of trifluoromethyl phenethyl mesalazine (TFM), an antioxidizing agent, on skin aging processes, including skin wrinkles and pigmentation. Our data revealed that TFM exerted a strong free radical scavenging capability and notably inhibited melanin production. Moreover, TFM downregulated the UV-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and interleukin-6 in cultured human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, in a clinical study with 24 women, TFM significantly reduced skin wrinkles and improved skin brightness compared to a placebo. These findings highlight the previously unrecognized effects of TFM on skin health by mitigating skin aging processes associated with oxidative damage.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050157

Authors: Hye Yung Choi Yun Jung Lee Chul Min Kim Young-Mi Lee

The burgeoning interest in natural components in personal care products has led to significant research and development of ingredients such as plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics. These components have been recognized for their potential to enhance skin health through various mechanisms, addressing consumer demand for products that are both effective and benign. Plant extracts, known for their rich composition of bioactive compounds, offer a myriad of benefits including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making them invaluable in skin care formulations. Antioxidants, derived from both plants and other natural sources, play a pivotal role in protecting the skin from oxidative damage, thereby preventing premature aging and promoting skin vitality. Bioactive peptides have garnered attention owing to their multifunctional activities that include promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting enzymes responsible for skin degradation, and reducing inflammation, thereby contributing to skin regeneration and anti-aging. Probiotics have expanded their utility beyond gut health to skin care, where they help in maintaining skin microbiome balance, thus enhancing skin barrier function and potentially mitigating various skin disorders. The purpose of this review is to explore the individual roles of plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics in personal care products, while emphasizing their synergistic effects when combined. By integrating these natural components, this paper aims to highlight the potential for developing innovative skincare formulations that not only address specific skin concerns but also contribute to overall skin health, aligning with the increasing consumer preference for natural and holistic skincare solutions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050156

Authors: Jaana Ailus Imran Saleem Fyaz M. D. Ismail

The demand for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients is rising as consumers increasingly prioritize green and environmentally friendly products. Naturally derived ingredients, such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols like flavonoids and tannins, are often perceived as more sustainable and beneficial for skincare. Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed) is a circumpolar plant with traditional uses in Northern and Eastern Europe known for its skincare benefits. This review explores the chemical composition, traditional uses, and potential skincare benefits of E. angustifolium, focusing on its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Literature surveys, ethnopharmacological research, and database searches were conducted to investigate the properties of E. angustifolium. The plant contains various compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins, steroids, and triterpenes, each with potential skincare benefits. Pharmacological reports suggest that E. angustifolium exhibits antioxidant and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products. The availability of E. angustifolium in the market as a raw material for cosmetics offers opportunities for formulators to create innovative products with skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory properties. Understanding the chemical composition and bioactivity of E. angustifolium can guide the development of effective and sustainable skincare formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050155

Authors: Panagiota Stamou Eleni V. Mikropoulou Maria Chalkiadaki Aikaterini Basdeki Lemonia Antoniadi Stéphane Poigny Maria Halabalaki

Chios mastic gum (CMG), the resin of Pistacia lentiscus var. Chia, is a product with great ethnopharmacological and economic significance. This study attempts to investigate, for the first time, the activity of CMG, its fractions and isolated compounds against specific enzymes, which play pivotal roles in the degradation of proteins contained in skin connective tissue. Initially, crude CMG was subjected to extraction, fractionation and isolation through different chromatographic techniques to obtain the acidic and neutral fraction of terpenes. Additionally, the characteristic and major active triterpene acids of CMG, masticadienonic and isomasticadienonic acids (MNA, IMNA) were isolated in pure form. All samples were analysed by means of High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) with four distinct development systems to obtain their constituents’ profile. Finally, samples were tested for their ability to inhibit the elastase and collagenase enzymes. According to our findings, for collagenase, a mixture of MNA and IMNA demonstrated the most potent activity with an IC50 value of 31.07 μg/mL, while for elastase CMG’s acidic fraction provided the most promising results with an IC50 value of 17.30 μg/mL. Overall, these results attempt to fill the gap in scientific knowledge about the use of CMG and its constituents in skincare and cosmetic products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050154

Authors: Clara Rodriguez Alexandre Porcello Michèle Chemali Wassim Raffoul Cíntia Marques Corinne Scaletta Kelly Lourenço Philippe Abdel-Sayed Lee Ann Applegate Fanny Pelissier Vatter Alexis Laurent

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) transport a variety of biomolecules and are pivotal in physiological intercellular communication. Importantly, exosomes have recently emerged as key endogenous players in tissular regeneration. More broadly (from an active ingredient purity standpoint), exosomes, stem cell secretomes, and cell culture-conditioned media have been clinically proven to exert multifaceted beneficial topical effects (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, skin rejuvenation). Therefore, human, animal, and plant-derived exosomes or other refined sub-cellular biological fractions are gaining substantial interest within the aesthetic and cosmetic industries. Notably, such approaches are thought to be among the most promising novel contenders for advanced, biologically inspired skin prejuvenation and rejuvenation care. The present narrative review summarizes the latest clinically oriented research on exosomes and cell culture-conditioned media, highlighting their mechanisms of action in various topical applications. Furthermore, it explores the innovation landscape and currently commercially available products on the global cosmetic market and discusses the potential future applications of advanced, biologically inspired ingredients in the medical aesthetic industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050153

Authors: Monika Michalak Ewelina Błońska-Sikora Natalia Dobros Olga Spałek Agnieszka Zielińska Katarzyna Paradowska

Plant oils are currently not only an essential element of the healthy eating pyramid, but also a valuable cosmetic material, which, in line with the eco-friendly trends of recent years, is effectively replacing petroleum-derived fatty ingredients. The fatty acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, and vitamins (e.g., A and E) present in plant oils contribute to their health-promoting properties, including antioxidant activity. This study assessed the contents of carotenoids and chlorophylls, as well as the antioxidant properties of 10 selected plant oils. Fenugreek seed oil was shown to have the highest total content of carotenoids, and the most β-carotene. Chokeberry and rosehip oils also contained large amounts of provitamin A, in comparison to the other oils tested. Lycopene was the dominant compound in black currant and rosehip seed oils. Among chlorophyll pigments, elderberry oil had the highest content of chlorophyll a, while black currant oil had large amounts of both chlorophyll a and chlorophyll b. The antioxidant properties of the cold pressed oils obtained from selected seeds and fruit stones, assessed by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as the ability to interact with the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radical, can be ranked as follows: pomegranate > fenugreek > poppy > black currant > chokeberry > rosehip > perilla > elderberry > carrot > fig. The results of this study showed that these plant oils are valuable natural materials with antioxidant properties, which can be an important complement to synthetic antioxidants due to their additional skin care properties.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050152

Authors: Nimasha L. Rathnasinghe Kotuwegoda G. Kaushani Praveena S. Rajapakshe Awanthi De Silva Randika A. Jayasinghe Renuka N. Liyanage Nadeeka D. Tissera Ruchira N. Wijesena Gayan Priyadarshana

Nanotechnology has applications in a variety of scientific specialties, encompassing health, technological devices, and now cosmetics under the generic term of nanocosmetics. Due to the improved particle qualities, such as color, transparency, and solubility, acquired at the nanoscale, nanotechnology significantly affects the cosmetic industry. Skin penetration mechanism depends heavily on the nanoparticles’ physicochemical properties, including stiffness, hydrophobicity, size, and charge. An expanding industry that requires more research and development has been created by nanoparticle production technologies. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, cubosomes, dendrimers, and other nanomaterials offer advanced skincare properties. Cosmetics made using nanotechnology have the advantages of product diversity, increased bioavailability of active compounds, and enhanced pleasing appearance of cosmetics with long-lasting benefits. The various cosmetic brands’ utilization of various types of nanomaterials in their products is highlighted in this review.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050151

Authors: Antonio Silletta Antonia Mancuso Nicola d’Avanzo Maria Chiara Cristiano Donatella Paolino

The cosmetics industry has experienced rapid growth, driven by consumer demand for products in line with modern lifestyles and technological advances, with greater awareness of the impacts on health and the ecosystem. This review explores the potential use of antibacterial compounds derived from food waste as sustainable alternatives to synthetic preservatives in cosmetic products. Waste obtained from food, including fruit peels, seeds, and plant remnants, is rich in natural bioactives, including polyphenolic compounds and essential oils that exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing features. The integration of these natural ingredients not only improves the shelf-life and safety of cosmetics but also promotes environmentally friendly practices. We discuss the sources and antimicrobial efficacy of these compounds, along with recent technological innovations. This sustainable approach responds to consumer preferences for natural ingredients, reduces food waste, and supports environmental sustainability, ultimately increasing the value and attractiveness of cosmetic products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050150

Authors: Eva Martins Pedro Castro Alessandra B. Ribeiro Carla F. Pereira Francisca Casanova Rui Vilarinho Joaquim Moreira Óscar L. Ramos

The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and characteristics. A well-defined bleaching protocol is crucial for creating a standardized method to assess product efficacy, especially for products designed to repair damaged hair. The objective of this study was to create a practical bleaching protocol that mimics real-world consumer experiences, ensuring that hair samples exhibit sufficient damage for testing. This approach allows for a reliable assessment of how well various products can repair hair. The protocol serves as a framework for evaluating hair properties and the specific effects of each product on hair structure. Color, brightness, lightness, morphology, and topography were primarily used to understand the big differences in the hair fiber when treated with two repair benchmark products, K18® and Olaplex®, in relation to the Bleached hair. The devised bleaching protocol proved to be a fitting framework for assessing the properties of hair and the unique characteristics of each tested product within the hair fiber. This protocol offers valuable insights and tools for substantiating consumer claims, with morphological and mechanical methods serving as indispensable tools for recognizing and validating claims related to hair. The addition of K18® and Olaplex® demonstrated an increase in hair brightness (Y) and lightness (L* and a*) in relation to the Bleached samples, which were considered relevant characteristics for consumers. Olaplex®’s water-based nature creates a visible inner sheet, effectively filling empty spaces and improving the disulfide linkage network. This enhancement was corroborated by the increased number of disulfide bonds and evident changes in the FTIR profile. In contrast, K18®, owing to the lipophilic nature of its constituents, resulted in the formation of an external layer above the fiber. The composition of each of the products had a discrete impact on the fiber distribution, which was an outcome relevant to the determination of spreadability by consumers.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050149

Authors: Cristina Blanco-Llamero Hugo F. Macário Beatriz N. Guedes Faezeh Fathi Maria Beatriz P. P. Oliveira Eliana B. Souto

Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly found in moisturising creams recommended as anti-aging or anti-cellulite and also for the treatment of different skin disorders, including androgenic alopecia. This bioactive is also described to be able to enhance the sunscreen scattering effect of well-known ultraviolet (UV) blockers. One of the major challenges remains its penetration capacity into deeper skin layers, which may be achieved by the use of nanosized delivery systems, yet without the risk of transdermal delivery. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical value of caffeine in cosmetic products, so-called nutricosmetics, which grants this bioactive several advantages in several formulations, in comparison to other potential bioactives of nutricosmetic value. Furthermore, the disclosed effects of bioactives commonly found in coffee, tea, and their by-products are reviewed and discussed. The discussion concludes by highlighting the significant benefits of caffeine in the treatment of skin disorders and its potential to enhance and promote skin health.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050148

Authors: Laura Vila-Vecilla Valentina Russo Gustavo Torres de Souza

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common form of hair loss, significantly affecting both men and women worldwide. Characterized by progressive hair thinning and loss, AGA is primarily mediated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Recent research has identified numerous single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with AGA, particularly in genes involved in androgen metabolism, prostaglandin pathways, and vasodilation. These genetic markers offer insights into AGA pathophysiology and potential therapeutic targets. Pharmacogenetics, the study of how genetic variations influence drug response, holds promise for personalized AGA treatment. Identifying SNPs that affect the efficacy of treatments like minoxidil and finasteride enables the development of tailored therapeutic strategies. For instance, genetic variants in the SRD5A2 gene, which affects DHT metabolism, can predict responsiveness to 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors. Beyond pharmacogenetics, RNA interference (RNAi) technologies, e.g., small interfering RNAs (siRNAs), present new therapeutic avenues. Studies have shown the efficacy of RNAi-based treatments in targeting androgen receptors, promoting hair growth in AGA models. Integrating genetic and pharmacogenetic research into clinical practice can transform AGA management, enhancing treatment efficacy and patient outcomes. In conclusion, genetic and pharmacogenetic insights are crucial for developing personalized treatments for AGA, while emerging RNAi technologies offer promising new interventions. These advancements represent significant steps toward more effective and individualized AGA therapies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050147

Authors: Raluca Laura Sobec Carmen Giuglea Codrin Nicolae Dobreanu Sorin Zdroba Lavinia Iulia Florea

Dermatomyositis is a rare autoimmune disease characterized by muscle weakness and skin rashes. Management typically involves high-dose cortisone treatment, which raises concerns about the feasibility and safety of aesthetic surgeries for affected individuals. This case report presents a successful outcome of an aesthetic surgery conducted on a dermatomyositis patient undergoing high-dose cortisone therapy. The patient, a 39-year-old female with a history of juvenile dermatomyositis, expressed a desire for aesthetic improvement, first in the periocular area and then in terms of the appearance of her breasts. Despite the challenges posed by the underlying condition and ongoing corticosteroid treatment, the patient underwent elective aesthetic surgeries with meticulous perioperative care and close collaboration between the surgical, anesthetic, and rheumatology teams. The successful outcome of the procedures enhanced the patient’s self-esteem and quality of life. This case underscores the importance of individualized treatment planning, interdisciplinary collaboration, and careful perioperative management for achieving favorable aesthetic outcomes for patients with dermatomyositis undergoing corticosteroid therapy for more than 20 years. Further research and awareness are warranted to guide the safe performance of aesthetic surgeries on this unique patient population.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050146

Authors: Wannisa Vichit Nisakorn Saewan

Resveratrol has been found to stimulate the growth of human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) and protect them from oxidative damage. The topical application of resveratrol effectively enhanced hair growth and stimulated the transition of the hair cycle from the resting phase (telogen) into the active growth phase (anagen phase). The aim of this study was to examine the effects of resveratrol-rich peanut callus and sprout extracts on promoting hair growth and anti-hair loss effects in hDPCs and then select the most effective extract (callus) for further assessment in clinical applications. The peanut sprout and callus were produced from plant seeds and extracted with ethanol. Resveratrol was identified as the major constituent in the extracts obtained using the HPLC approach, although no resveratrol was found in the original seed extract. Hair cell proliferation, growth factor expression, and 5α-reductase (5-AR) inhibition assays were used to examine the extracts’ promotion of hair growth and inhibition of anti-hair loss in an in vitro hDPCs model, and standard resveratrol served as a positive reference. Initially, the cytotoxicity of the samples was assessed, revealing that 2.5% of all extracts and 0.02% of resveratrol exhibited a non-cytotoxic effect to hDPCs. The 50% cytotoxic concentration of peanut callus extract (15.50 ± 0.05%) was significantly less cytotoxic to hDPCs than sprout (12.30 ± 0.14%) and seed (11.69 ± 0.26%) extracts (p < 0.05). In vitro experiments indicated that peanut callus extract had the greatest proliferated hDPCs (20.44 ± 0.78%), increased the expression of growth factors (IGF-1, KGF, and HGF) and inhibited 5AR (27.83 ± 2.48%). Then, the callus extract and resveratrol as the positive standard were separately incorporated into a hair serum base and assessed for anti-hair loss effect in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial on 60 subjects, and the daily hair shedding count, one-minute combing, and forcible hair pluck tests were monitored for 12 weeks. The clinical study showed that the hair serum containing peanut callus extract and resveratrol were effective in reducing hair shedding (66.98% and 61.47%), decreased hair fall from combing by (83.92% and 68.19%), and increased the ratio of the anagen/telogen by (3.3 and 2.8, respectively). The results suggest that peanut callus extract has a significant amount of resveratrol and the potential to stimulate hair growth and prevent hair loss, making it an alternative bioactive option for cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11050145

Authors: Nikolaos Bikiaris Nikolaos F. Nikolaidis Panagiotis Barmpalexis

Since the emergence of microplastics, the scientific community has been extremely alarmed regarding their potential risks for and threats to both the environment and human lives. MPs are traced in freshwater and marine environments, day-to-day-life ecosystems, and the bodies of animals and humans. Due to their usage advancements, MPs have become directly or indirectly an integral part of personal care, cosmetics, and cleaning products and appeared as a domestic cause of environmental pollution. Over the years, researchers have ascertained the harmful effects of MPs on the environment. In this regard, the monitoring and assessment of MPs in PCCPs necessitates considerable attention. The worldwide ban legislation on plastic μBs used in cosmetic products has driven researchers to investigate sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. This review paper summarizes the potential threats of MPs used in cosmetics and the utilization of potential alternatives.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040144

Authors: Beatriz Molina Domenico Romano Michela Zazzaron Eyal Kramer Clara Cigni Franco Grimolizzi Gilberto Bellia

Hyaluronic acid (HA)-based dermal fillers are among the most popular non-invasive facial aesthetic treatments. To ensure an effective and safe treatment experience, knowledge of their biophysical and rheological characteristics, such as: HA concentration, molecular weight (MW), G′, and the degree of cross-linking is essential. Products with a higher MW, G′, and degree of cross-linking are more suitable for promoting volume and lift. Dermal fillers with a lower MW, G′, and degree of cross-linking can produce a soft filling effect that regulates hydration and elasticity. This review discusses how these rheological characteristics can inform treatment choice and their effects on clinical outcomes. The Aliaxin® line of HA dermal fillers, which are tailored to different clinical applications due to their rheological characteristics, highlights that extensive knowledge of the product can provide very safe and effective procedures for patients, whilst respecting their natural facial aesthetics. This review discusses studies using Aliaxin® dermal fillers for volumizing and hydrating treatments and fillers that can be used for lip augmentation. Treatment with Aliaxin® was overall very effective, with no reported adverse events. A full facial treatment using tailored dermal fillers may be a future approach to achieve an effective and safe harmonized and natural aesthetic.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040143

Authors: Ena Parać Zrinka Bukvić Mokos

Melasma, also known as chloasma and the “mask of pregnancy”, is a common acquired pigmentary disorder characterized by irregular, hyperpigmented brown-to-grey patches primarily situated on the face. It typically affects women of reproductive age, especially those exhibiting Fitzpatrick skin types III to V. The precise etiopathogenesis of melasma is complex and has not been fully elucidated; however, ultraviolet radiation, hormonal factors, and genetic predispositions significantly contribute to the melanin production increase associated with this condition. Due to the multifactorial aetiology, resistance to various therapeutic options, and high recurrence rate, treating melasma is challenging. Hydroquinone has long been considered a gold standard in melasma treatment due to its ability to inhibit tyrosinase; however, it has faced scrutiny after concerns about its adverse effects. Current treatment strategies include various topical and systemic therapies, procedural interventions, as well as combinations of these methods. For optimal results, both photoprotection and a treatment plan that targets different pathogenic mechanisms should be used. Additionally, treatment should be tailored to patient characteristics, such as skin type, the severity of the condition, and compliance. This review summarises current treatment options, focusing on long-term therapy and the latest advancements in managing this challenging condition.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040142

Authors: Wan-Teng Lin Yi-Ju Chen Hsin-Ning Kuo Cheng-Yeh Yu Mosleh Mohammad Abomughaid K. J. Senthil Kumar

Glossogyne tenuifolia (Labill.) Cass. ex Cass (Compositae) is a herbaceous plant that is endemic to Taiwan. Traditional Chinese Medicine has utilized it as a treatment for fever, inflammation, and liver preservation. Recent research has unveiled its bioactivities, including anti-inflammation, anti-cancer, antiviral, antioxidant, anti-fatigue, hepatoprotection, and immune modulation elements. Nevertheless, its effect on skin health remains to be investigated. Thus, we investigated the impact of G. tenuifolia essential oil (GTEO) on forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis and its mechanisms in B16-F10 murine melanoma in vitro. Treatment of GTEO resulted in a substantial decrease in FRK-induced melanin production, accompanied by a significant decrease in tyrosinase mRNA and protein expression levels. Additionally, our data demonstrated that the decrease in tyrosinase expression resulted from the suppression of MITF, as indicated by the reduced movement of MITF into the cell nucleus. Moreover, GTEO prompted a prolonged ERK1/2 activation, leading to the decline of MITF through proteasomal degradation, and it was verified that GTEO had no inhibitory impact on MITF activity in ERK1/2 inhibitor-treated cells. Additional studies demonstrated that α-pinene and D-limonene, which are the primary components in GTEO, showed strong melanin and tyrosinase inhibitory effects, indicating that α-pinene and D-limonene may contribute to its anti-melanogenic effects. Collectively, these data presented compelling proof that GTEO, along with its primary components α-pinene and D-limonene, show great potential as natural sources for developing innovative skin-whitening agents in the field of cosmetics.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040141

Authors: Maíra Bueno Ariede Wallace Androm Gomez Junior Thalita Marcílio Cândido Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar Catarina Rosado Carlota de Oliveira Rangel-Yagui Fabiana Vieira Lima Solino Pessoa Maria Valéria Robles Velasco André Rolim Baby

Rutin, a flavonoid found in various plants, has gained attention for its potential applications in the cosmetic industry due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and potential photoprotective properties. Our review explored the use of rutin (rutoside, 3-O-rutinoside-quercetin) in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, focusing on its physicochemical properties and stability, cutaneous permeability, and efficacy in sunscreen systems, involving in vitro tests and the current state of clinical trials. Rutin’s ability to scavenge free radicals, prevent peroxidation, and reduce vascular fragility makes this flavonoid a promising ingredient for photoprotection. Studies have shown that rutin can enhance the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen formulations, especially when combined with organic UV filters. The encapsulation of rutin in nanostructures has also been investigated to improve its applicability. Overall, rutin shows potential as a safe and effective ingredient in cosmetics/dermocosmetics, offering protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation and oxidative stress on the skin, as well as being a feasible strategy for developing environmentally friendly multifunctional sunscreens.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040140

Authors: Gilda Aiello Davide Tosi Giancarlo Aldini Marina Carini Alfonsina D’Amato

Lipids are emerging as important potential targets for the early diagnosis and prognosis of several inflammatory diseases. Studying the lipid profiles is important for understanding cellular events such as low-grade inflammation, a condition common to many human diseases, including cancer, neurodegenerative diseases, diabetes, and obesity. This work aimed to explore lipid signatures in an inflammation cellular model using an advanced bioanalytical approach complemented by Machine Learning techniques. Analyses based on the high-resolution mass spectrometry of extracted lipids in TNF-α inflamed cells (R3/1 NF-κB reporter cells) versus lipids in control cells resulted in 469 quantified lipids, of which 20% were phosphatidylcholines (PCs) and phosphatidylethanolamines (PEs), 10% were sphingomyelins (SMs), 6% were phosphatidylinositols (PIs), 7% were ceramides (Cer), 6% were phosphatidylglycerols (PGs), and 5% were phosphatidylserines (PSs). TNF-α induced a significant alteration compared to the control, with a fold change higher than 1.5; of the 88 lipids, 71 were upregulated and 17 were downregulated, impacting various pathways as revealed by network analyses. To validate the inflammation model, the TNF-α induced cells were treated with polyphenols from thinned young apples (TAPs), which are known to have anti-inflammatory properties. The dysregulation of ceramides (Cer(d18:1/23:0), Cer(d18:1/23:0), and Cer(d18:1/22:0)) observed in TNF-α inflamed cells was completely reverted after TAP treatment. Network analyses showed the alteration of arachidonic acid and TNF signaling, which were modulated by polyphenols from thinned young apples. The results highlighted the potentiality of the inflammatory model and the bioanalytical approach to describe lipid profiles in complex biological matrices and different states. In addition, the quantified lipids were interpreted by an Artificial Intelligence approach to identify relevant signatures and clusters of lipids that can impact cellular states. Lastly, this study underlines both the potential applications of lipidomics combined with Machine Learning and how to build and validate Machine Learning models to predict inflammation based on lipid-related pattern signatures.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040139

Authors: Vincenzo Nobile Enza Cestone Sabrina Ghirlanda Andrea Poggi Pau Navarro Adrián García Jonathan Jones Nuria Caturla

Environmental pollution is increasingly recognized as a significant contributor to skin and scalp damage. Oral supplementation with a specific blend of four standardized botanical extracts (Rosmarinus officinalis, Lippia citriodora, Olea europaea leaf, and Sophora japonica) has been previously demonstrated to enhance skin health in individuals exposed to high environmental stress. Thus, it might represent a convenient strategy to also improve their scalp health aspect, particularly in subjects with sensitive scalps. To support these effects, a 12-week double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial was performed in 66 women working outdoors in urban areas with high particulate matter (PM) levels and taking 250 mg of the botanical blend daily. Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin antioxidant status (FRAP); skin and scalp moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), and oiliness (sebumeter); skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), elasticity and firmness (cutometer) and wrinkle depth (image analysis); and scalp clinical evaluation. Despite constant exposure to increased levels of PM, the tested product positively influenced all monitored parameters compared to both baseline and the placebo-treated group, in as early as 4 weeks. At the end of the study, key improvements included increased skin FRAP (21.9%), moisturization (9.5%), radiance (24.9%) and reduced wrinkle depth (−16.5%), dark spot pigmentation (−26.2%), and skin oiliness (−19.3%). For the scalp, moisturization increased (14.1%), TEWL decreased (−13.8%), and sebum content reduced by 16.2%. Additionally, 71% of subjects with sensitive scalps experienced reduced redness. These findings highlight the extensive benefits of the ingredient, expanding its application beyond conventional skin treatments to also alleviate scalp issues.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040138

Authors: Yi Yang Bei Tian Yi Xie Peng Liu Linyan Yao Jianxi Xiao

Excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure can lead to sunburn, characterized by skin barrier damage, inflammation, pain, and an increased risk of skin cancer. Recombinant collagens have gradually attracted attention due to their high purity, low immunogenicity, batch-to-batch consistency, and excellent solubility. Additionally, the type of dressing significantly affects wound repair. Gels are ideal for sunburn treatment because they maintain a moist environment, adhere firmly, and do not need to be removed. Herein, we have created bioactive triple-helical recombinant collagen (THRC) gels for improved healing of sunburned skin. The THRC gels remained stable after a three-month stability test, displaying a rheological behavior characteristic of non-Newtonian pseudoplastic fluids. In vivo skin irritation tests conducted on New Zealand rabbits demonstrated that THRC gels were safe for use. A sunburned mice model was established to study the biological effects of THRC gels. Non-invasive combo evaluations indicated that THRC gels exhibited an exceptional capability of recovering dermis density, erythema index (EI), hydration, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of sunburned skin to a healthy state. Histological observations revealed that THRC gels significantly enhanced the repair of damaged skin by accelerating the recovery process, promoting collagen deposition and regeneration. Molecular biological characterizations further demonstrated their remarkable antioxidant properties, including the inhibition of lipoperoxidation and the enhancement in superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione (GSH) activities. These safe and bioactive recombinant collagen gels provide a novel approach for sunburn repair and show potential for long-term cosmetic benefits.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040137

Authors: Juan Antonio Carrillo-Norte Baldomero García-Mir Lluis Quintana Bruno Buracchio Rafael Guerrero-Bonmatty

In recent decades, there has been a rising demand for anti-aging interventions aimed at postponing or potentially reversing indicators of skin aging. The use of collagen-based nutraceutical supplements has gained popularity as they have shown promise in enhancing skin health and reducing signs of aging. The aim of this randomized, placebo-controlled, blinded study was to investigate the effects of 2.5 g COLLinstant® LMW, a novel cosmeceutical containing low-molecular-weight (≤1000 Da) collagen peptides, on skin aging and health. The trial was conducted with 80 healthy women aged 30 years and older. They received a daily oral dose of either the food supplement (n = 40) or placebo (n = 40) for six weeks. Skin assessment was performed based on validated objective methods, such as Visioface 1000D (skin wrinkling), cutometry (elasticity and fatigue), and corneometry (skin hydration) at baseline (T0) and at week 6 (T6). After 6 weeks, participants that received collagen had significant improvements in biometric skin wrinkle parameters from baseline, with a reduction in volume by 46%, in area by 44%, and in depth by 9%, along with a greater increase in skin moisturization (by 34%) than those in the placebo group (p < 0.001). The food supplement did not significantly modify skin firmness or fatigue and had only slight beneficial effects on skin elasticity. The investigational product was well tolerated. The observed effects aligned closely with the subjective assessments reported by study participants. The study provides substantiated evidence supporting the efficacy of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides in restoring altered skin biometric parameters, as objectively assessed. Thus, regular supplementation with this nutraceutical may contribute to achieving smoother and more radiant skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040136

Authors: Michał Rachalewski Monika Pasikowska-Piwko Renata Dębowska Iwona Marczak Karolina Lendzion Hubert Godziątkowski Robert Czarnomysy Katarzyna Rogiewicz Irena Eris

Emollients plus are defined as topical formulations containing active ingredients with no pharmacological effect. They are designed to target multiple mechanisms in AD pathophysiology. The objective of the present study was to assess the efficacy of emollient plus medical device cream by performing a post-marketing surveillance study. It was carried out in cooperation with 88 members of the Polish Association for Atopic Diseases who were diagnosed with AD and voluntarily fulfilled the questionnaire after 14 days of product use. Additionally, the medical device underwent in vitro/ex vivo testing. Cytotoxicity was assessed by in vitro studies: direct MTT assay and indirect Agarose Overlay Assay. An ex vivo EpiDerm™ culture (EPI-200) was used to investigate the irritation potential, and culture medium was collected after 18 h of contact with the skin model to perform a flow cytometric for the analysis of inflammatory cytokines. A dermatological assessment with the local SCORAD was employed to confirm the efficacy of the cream. It was found that 86% of patients with AD observed an improvement in their skin condition during the two-week testing period. In vitro/ex vivo assays confirmed that the product is safe, non-irritant, and does not stimulate the production of proinflammatory cytokines. According to the local SCORAD, the symptoms of AD were alleviated. Moreover, preliminary studies indicated its efficacy in eliminating S. aureus on patients’ skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040135

Authors: Vasiliki Sofia Grech Vasiliki Kefala Efstathios Rallis

The integration of artificial intelligence (AI) in cosmetology is transforming the industry in numerous ways, including the introduction of advanced tools such as at-home skin analysis devices that can evaluate skin quality and augmented reality applications that allow users to virtually try on various makeup products. These innovations empower individuals to make well-informed decisions about their cosmetic care and enable cosmetologists to predict treatment outcomes with higher accuracy. In this way, AI enhances patient satisfaction by better aligning expectations with achievable results. A computerized database search was performed to identify articles relevant to this topic. A comprehensive search was applied to the following electronic databases: IEEE Xplore, PubMed, Google Scholar, and Research Gate. This review explores four key areas in the current literature where AI contributes to cosmetic procedures. Firstly, AI democratizes skincare by making products and services more accessible to everyone. Secondly, it bridges the gap between physicians and cosmetic suppliers by enlightening collaboration and innovation. Thirdly, it improves the assessment of cosmetic ingredients by ensuring better safety and efficacy, and lastly, AI provides an ethical alternative to animal testing by replacing the Local Lymph Node Assay (LLNA) and the Guinea Pig Maximization Test (GPMT) with in silico models. While AI offers significant benefits, it also raises concerns about data privacy, informed consent, and the potential for promoting unrealistic beauty standards. Addressing these challenges involves implementing measures such as anonymization and de-identification techniques to protect sensitive data and safeguard informed consent for data collection and processing. This article aims to highlight the responsible and ethical use of AI in cosmetology, emphasizing the importance of accuracy and customization in cosmetic care, which represents a significant advancement in the industry.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040134

Authors: Yu Wu Feng Li Yan Gong Xing Wan Li-Ming Zhou

(1) Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized as a chronic inflammatory skin disease with a significant incidence rate. The pathophysiological mechanisms underlying AD remain incompletely understood. However, extensive research demonstrates that a complex interplay among genetic, immune, and environmental factors contributes to the disruption of skin barrier function. Inflammation is identified as one of the pathological mechanisms in AD. Recombined mussel adhesive protein exhibits anti-inflammatory properties. However, recombinant mussel adhesive protein has been used less frequently for AD, so we explored the therapeutic effect of recombinant mussel adhesive protein for AD and the potential mechanism. (2) Methods: We established a mice model of AD in vivo and an LPS-induced inflammation model in HaCaT cells in vitro. Through assessment of skin lesion scores, itch frequency, transepidermal water loss, skin microcirculation, HE staining, Elisa assays for IL-6, IL-12, IL-13, IL-4, IL-5, IFN-γ, IgE, and TNF-α, immunohistochemical staining for filaggrin and CK14, Masson staining, and Western blot analysis of NF-κB p65, P-P65, Keap1, and Nrf2, the effects of recombined mussel adhesive protein on AD symptoms, pathology, inflammation, and its mechanisms are investigated. (3) Results: The recombined mussel adhesive protein significantly improved the compromised skin barrier, reduced scratching frequency in mice, decreased transepidermal water loss, and lowered the expression of inflammatory factors, thus ameliorating skin inflammation damage. Mechanistically, recombined mussel adhesive protein downregulated the expression of P-p65/p65 and Keap1 while upregulating the level of Nrf2. (4) Conclusions: Overall, our results demonstrate the effectiveness of recombined mussel adhesive protein in attenuating DNFB-induced AD by inhibiting NF-κB and activating the Keap1/Nrf2 signaling pathway. Thus, recombined mussel adhesive protein is a promising therapeutic candidate for the treatment of AD.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040133

Authors: Robert Rosostolato Cardoso Mariáurea Matias Sarandy Leandro Licursi de Oliveira Sérgio Luis Pinto da Matta Romulo Dias Novaes Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves

This study investigated the effect of natural compounds from Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) skin on wound healing in IL-10 knockout mice. The healing fraction, Fraction T19, was obtained through hydrolysis with trypsin. In vitro, T19 was not cytotoxic to RAW 264.7 macrophage cells, promoting increased cell proliferation and migration. In vivo, mice (n = 30) were divided into three groups with 12 mm wounds in the dorsal region: control (distilled water), T1 (T19 at 125 μg/mL), and T2 (T19 at 250 μg/mL). Daily applications were performed, with tissue removal after nine days. The results showed that T19 increased the production of nitric oxide (NO) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), preventing wound contamination. There was an increase in pro-inflammatory (IL-2 and IFNγ) and anti-inflammatory (IL-4) cytokines, as well as cell proliferation markers (PCNA and KI67). Antibodies CD31, CD163, and COX-2 indicated an increase in the formation of new vessels and a reduction in inflammation. Both groups treated with T19 showed better healing results, with better effects observed at higher doses. It was concluded that T19 can effectively modulate the skin repair process and represent an alternative therapeutic for improving the quality of wound skin, especially in the clinical context. Formulations using tilapia skin are safe and effective for accelerating wound healing.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040131

Authors: Giorgio Cappellucci Alessia Paganelli Pier Luca Ceccarelli Elisabetta Miraldi Marco Biagi

Chronic wounds remain a significant clinical challenge, necessitating the exploration of novel therapeutic agents. Sedum telephium L. (syn. Hylotelephium telephium (L.) H. Ohba) fresh leaf juice, known for its traditional medicinal uses, was evaluated to assess its efficacy and its mechanism in promoting wound healing in vitro. Fresh leaves were collected and processed to obtain the juice, which was analyzed for polyphenols, flavonoids, polysaccharides, and proteins content. Key bioactive compounds were identified, including complex polysaccharides (2.47%), proteins (0.16%) and kaempferol and quercetin tri- di- and mono-glycosides, 0.04%, expressed as quercetin equivalent. The juice and its polysaccharidic fraction were tested on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HFF-1) to assess cell viability, wound closure, and the production of growth factors and pro-collagen I. Our results indicated that the whole juice significantly enhanced wound closure in both cell types: +33% in keratinocytes compared to control, at 24 h, with a marked increase in fibroblast growth factor (FGF) (+21% compared to control) and LAP(TGF-β1) (+60% compared to control) and +30% in fibroblasts compared to control at 24 h, without a significant upregulation of pro-collagen I expression. The polysaccharidic fraction alone showed limited efficacy (no efficacy in keratinocytes and +20% in wound closure compared to control at 24 h in fibroblast), emphasizing the importance of the complete phytocomplex. These findings suggest that Sedum telephium L. represents a promising candidate in the setting of skin regeneration and repair.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040132

Authors: Lauriane N. Roux Assia Dreux-Zigha Célia Rey Carine Boutot Yoan Laurent Sercan Beytur Isabelle Metton Jean-Daniel Abraham Jean-Yves Berthon

Human skin homeostasis is partly maintained by a complex microscopic ecosystem known as the microbiota. Together, the skin host and microbiota form a synergistic evolutionary unit referred to as ‘skin holobiont’, which can be modulated by various stresses. By extracting organic wild yellow gentian roots enhanced through fermentation of a rare and resistant bacterium, Sphingomonas faeni, a cosmetic active ingredient was developed to rebalance the holobiont functions as well as hydric and lipidic skin content. Indeed, gentian-fermented extract (GFE) boosts hyaluronic acid (HA) biosynthesis in vitro, stimulates the HA receptor, CD44, and allows water storage and retention through its signaling cascade by epidermal reinforcement. Importantly, GFE also increases lipid synthesis by +147% in vitro, which was confirmed clinically on volunteers with dehydrated and dry skin who presented an increase in hydration and skin surface lipids after 28 days of treatment. Furthermore, a metaproteomic study highlighted that there is a slow-down of skin barrier and antioxidant proteins from both human and microbial origins, with age and dehydration, that can be reversed by GFE after 56 days. In conclusion, acting on the HA metabolism and specific microbiota species, GFE rebalances the skin holobiont for a reinforced and rehydrated skin with optimal lipid content.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040130

Authors: Ana Caroline Bitencourt da Silva Márcia Rodrigues Payeras Valesca Sander Koth Karen Cherubini Fernanda Gonçalves Salum

The objective of our study was to evaluate early and late macroscopic and histological changes associated with the use of polycaprolactone dermal filler (PCL) in the orofacial region. Forty-eight female Wistar rats were divided into the PCL group and the control group. The material was applied to the ventral tongue and submandibular region, and the animals were euthanized at three time points—24 h, and 30 and 90 days. In the PCL group, yellowish nodules were observed on the tongue at all experimental time points. At the 24 h mark, the histological analysis revealed the presence of the PCL and a predominance of lymphocytes, plasma cells, and neutrophils. At 30 and 90 days, macrophages and multinucleated giant cells predominated around the PCL spheres. Collagen density in the dermis was higher in the PCL group when compared to the control at 30 and 90 days. In the submandibular glands, an inflammatory process similar to that observed at other sites was noted, with no alterations in acinar or ductal morphology. The results of this study highlight the effectiveness of PCL as a collagen biostimulator. Nevertheless, the development of nodular lesions on the tongue signals the potential risk of complications in mobile anatomical structures.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040129

Authors: Jorge Huaman Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco Jorge Rojas Ana María Muñoz Patricia Lozada

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040128

Authors: Alfredo Martínez-Gutiérrez Javier Sendros Teresa Noya Mari Carmen González

Melasma is a pathology with multifactorial causes that results in hyperpigmentation of sun-exposed areas, particularly facial skin. New treatments targeting the different factors regulating this condition need to be effective with and have limited adverse effects. Here, we describe a novel combination of two natural compounds (apigenin and phloretin) that has synergistic effects regulating melanogenesis in vitro. Both compounds inhibit Wnt-stimulated melanogenesis and induce autophagy in melanocytes. Apigenin induces DKK1, a Wnt pathway inhibitor, and reduces VEGF, a melanogenesis and proangiogenic factor, in fibroblasts. Moreover, apigenin induces miR-675, a melanogenesis inhibitor miRNA that is reduced in melasma skin in melanocytes. Both compounds showed senomorphic effects by regulating extracellular-matrix-related genes in senescent fibroblasts. Topical application of the compounds also showed significant melanin reduction in a reconstructed human epidermis after 7 days. Thus, the combination of apigenin and phloretin shows promising results as an effective topical treatment of skin hyperpigmentation conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040127

Authors: Liborija Lugović-Mihić Eva Filija Vanja Varga Lana Premuž Ena Parać Renata Tomašević Ema Barac Bruno Špiljak

Acrylates and methacrylates, though common in a wide variety of products, especially in the dental industry, can cause adverse skin reactions. These compounds, including 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and bisphenol A-glycidyl methacrylate, are strong contact irritants or allergens. Found in dental prostheses, composite resins, dentin bonding materials, and glass ionomers, they pose a higher risk of exposure for dental personnel. Clinically, acrylate allergies manifest as facial rashes, eczema with cracked skin on fingers (pulpitis), nail dystrophy, and periungual dermatitis. Recently, however, the highest frequency of allergic reactions to acrylates has been observed in the beauty industry due to increased use in artificial nails, eyelashes, and hair extensions. This has led to greater sensitization. Acrylates are also used in medical applications such as bone cement for orthopedic endoprostheses, soft contact lenses, hearing aids, histological preparations, and wound dressings, which can also cause allergic reactions. For example, acrylates in surgical glue can cause severe dermatitis, and diabetic medical devices are also potential sources of allergic contact dermatitis. Given the extensive use and prolonged skin contact of products containing acrylates and methacrylates, this review aims to present current knowledge from the literature on reactions to these compounds across different industries.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11040126

Authors: Hlalanathi Y. Gwanya Afika-Amazizi N. Mbuyiswa Ompelege J. Phokwe Nomagugu Gxaba Madira C. Manganyi

The growing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetic formulations has driven scientists to explore a wide range of botanical resources. Helinus integrifolius, a lesser-known botanical entity, has recently emerged as a formidable contender in this field. This review explores the possibility of incorporating Helinus integrifolius in the cosmetics industry, synthesizing data from the literature on pharmacological, botanical, and cosmetic research. Additionally, this highlights the versatility and multipurpose nature of this botanical resource in cosmetic applications. Furthermore, concerns regarding the safety of contemporary cosmetic products, formulation compatibility, and regulatory aspects are addressed to accelerate its integration into cosmetic products. Ultimately, this review highlights the untapped potential of Helinus integrifolius as a treasured resource for the cosmetics industry, emphasizing its ability to meet the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly, effective, and naturally inspired cosmetic solutions. Through thorough exploration and analysis, this paper aims to stimulate further research and development initiatives aimed at harnessing the cosmetic capabilities of Helinus integrifolius, thus contributing to the advancement of innovation in natural cosmetics.