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FT Globetrotter

Paris
with the FT

From Simon Kuper’s top coffee spots to the hottest techie cocktail bars, and where to run along the river in between
Illustration of paris
© Shonagh Rae

Our picks

Food and drink, culture, exercise and more

Food and drink

Where Paris’s power players eat

Six top spots for business dining in the culinary capital, where deals are sealed over breakfast, lunch and dinner

Food and drink

Chef Daniel Rose’s top Parisian eateries

From a brilliant bistro to a temple to traditional French cooking, the acclaimed chef shares his favourite places

Travel advisory

December strikes: what you need to know if you’re travelling

Protests at pension reforms are set to disrupt rail and air links, plus national and international services

Food and drink

Simon Kuper in Paris: where to power dine like a president

The FT columnist on the restaurants where the real business of French politics is done

Culture

Leonardo da Vinci at the Louvre

Review: this unmissable exhibition reveals how the artist captured the dynamism of body and mind with bold techniques. (Pro tip: book early, if possible)

Food and drink

Cuisine to impress your colleagues

Review: Amarante — a 12th-arrondissement restaurant that made critic Nicholas Lander’s best of 2019 list

Food and drink

Great cocktail spots in ‘Silicon Sentier’

The FT’s Harriet Agnew lets us in on her top 2nd arrondissement hideaways

Food and drink

Brew la la! FT readers on the best coffee in Paris

From flawless flat whites to heavenly roasts, here’s where to find a caffeine fix in the French capital

Coffee

Coffee snob: Simon Kuper’s top spots for a caffeine fix

The FT columnist on Paris’s coffee revolution, and his favourite cafes for a proper flat white

Exercise

The best 5k runs

Breeze past the city of light’s most iconic sights by following Paris bureau chief Victor Mallet’s top urban running routes

Culture

Francis Bacon at the Pompidou Centre

Review: A new show explores the painter’s literary influences, celebrating his epic scale and expressiveness, writes FT art critic Jackie Wullschlager

Accommodation

Le grand refurb: L’Hôtel de Crillon

Review: Paris correspondent, Harriet Agnew, inspects the results of a lavish four-year renovation of an 18th-century central Paris landmark

Food and drink

Dinner in the trendy 10th

Review: ‘Beautifully judged seasonings and textures’ at Restaurant Eels in the up-and-coming 10th arrondissement, writes the FT’s Nicholas Lander.

Things to do

Kill an hour al fresco

Eau là là ! A fountain installation made with Swarovski crystal on the Champs-Elysées

Your city secrets

Top tips from the FT Globetrotter community

Food and drink

A power lunch venue in the 3rd arr.

Henry Madden, property developer, Brazil

‘Chez L’Ami Louis: old school friendly service with real French food as opposed to nouveau, and great acoustics to ensure you can hear each other and not be overheard. Comfortable and unpretentious putting everyone at ease, the better to get to the heart of any matter!’

Food and drink

A business breakfast in Bastille

Jean-Philippe Osta, consultant, Paris, France

‘Café Français on Place de la Bastille. Very good breakfast options, from the traditional tartines and omelets to granola and yogurt, with a very nice view on the Bastille column and the Opera.’

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Talking points

Curated reading from FT Weekend

  1. Lunch with the FT

    Gilet jaune leader Priscillia Ludosky

    The French activist who helped inspire a year of protest speaks to the FT’s Victor Mallet about forging a new fraternité

  2. European prime property

    Why London’s bankers cannot resist Paris property

    The French capital’s property market is attracting UK-based workers concerned about Brexit fallout

  3. European politics

    Cédric Villani - Paris’s next mayor?

    The mathematician proving to be a thorn in President Macron’s side

  4. Art market

    Is Brexit London’s loss and Paris’s gain?

    Uncertainty surrounding Britain’s departure from the EU has seen Paris reclaim art market power from London

  5. Lunch with the FT

    LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault

    The world’s third-richest man on luxury, LVMH’s succession — and taking a point off Roger Federer

  6. Expat lives

    An expat’s view of Paris

    Life in France’s capital gives FT correspondent Harriet Agnew glimpses behind the guide books

  7. Culture

    The fight for French identity

    How the country’s historians are rewriting the ‘roman national’ — to an often ferocious backlash

  8. Lunch with the FT

    Novelist Leïla Slimani

    The ‘Lullaby’ author speaks to Simon Kuper about the French version of #Metoo and representing la Francophonie for Macron

  9. Accommodation

    Airbnb’s number one destination

    How the home-sharing site is accused of driving up rents and house prices in the French capital

  10. Lunch with the FT

    Socialist politician Ségolène Royal

    The former presidential candidate discusses Macron’s mis-steps, her country’s malaise — and why the men who rule France should have listened to her