So Close! McCall's 7812

I really like this pattern. It got a bit of flack when it was released but as a peplum lover I was really drawn to view C. I also really liked the deep-but-not-cleavage-baring v-neck.

I sewed a Medium, standard for me. I did a 3/4" FBA rotating the dart into the front since it's ruched. I made my standard 1" full bicep adjustment as well. I've found I don't always need a swayback adjustment if the back has some shaping so I sewed it as is.

It fits very nicely through the back!

The pattern is very straightforward if you follow the directions. Typing this, I almost forgot I nearly had to rip the thing apart. There is a correct order to sewing the front casings and attaching the peplum. If you do it wrong, your drawstring will never make it out of the other end and you may end up cutting an actual hole and darning over it to make it work because attempting to remove stitches in a mesh knit is sadness. At least that's a possibility of what could happen O_o. LOL!!!!

My fabric is a mesh knit from Fabric Mart. For awhile I was amassing these fabrics and then stopped because sewing them can be a real exercise in patience. This one wasn't too bad as it would actually take a press; but it took a lot longer to get the right combo of settings on the sewing machine, serger and coverstitch.

With a dark bra, the mesh isn't too see-through against my skin...

I also tried it with a camisole which works too!

I had to make the coverstitch work to hem that peplum! LOL! 

Once I got the settings right, no problems.

When I finished it, I loved it. Then, wait...

Ah. That neckline is WIDE. Too wide. Like, I'd need another inch to ensure my bra straps would stay covered. Only slightly partly because I need bras with straps set closer to center because I have narrowish, sloping shoulders, but that neckline is wide. The v-neck is amazing though!

This is how it actually fits. 

It's SO perfect otherwise. It makes me sad because I was really wedded to the idea of this pattern+this fabric.

I even made the drawstring from self-fabric! That's commitment! :-p 

I have considered adding some clear elastic through the sleeve portion of the neckline (it's a raglan). We will see because, I just adore this top!! 

ETA: Based on how it functions when it's on, I don't think bra strap holders are the solution. I have put them in garments before! But those garments actually sat on my shoulder anyway. I should mention for the "good" pics, I have my bra straps pulled to the side which is not realistic for wearing the top! They're *this* close to falling off my shoulder --  Look at my left shoulder and you can see how far it's pulled to the side...

I'm not sewing right now -- I did hem my 3rd(!) Butterick 6621 yesterday :) I have a few posts scheduled with the last of November and the rest of December's sewing. I get my MRI results tomorrow...fingers crossed!!!

Why Hello There, 2019!

Let's get the most important thing out of the way...

I AM TURNING 40 THIS YEAR!!!! Wooooooohoo!!!!!

I remember being so excited for 30 and am just giddy for 40. I am one of those people who say you could not pay me enough money to go back in time. No, I don't wish I were in HS or 20 again or...No. No. No. No Thank You.

I embrace the passage of time and the growth and change that comes with it. Let's get this next decade started!

Personal goals for 2019:

Read More
I came to the realization that I read very few books last year. I don't know how many but probably only 2 or 3 and it made me sad!

I plan to read at least 12 books this year.

Eat Better
I am basically a small child inside :-p If I didn't know better, I'd live on pastries, cake, cookies, other bread items, bacon, potatoes, tacos, nachos and pizza. Yesterday for dinner I made salmon, risotto and green beans. I ate 2 green beans while I was cooking to gauge done-ness and was pretty sure I needn't eat anymore than that. Vegetables, bleh. :-p

I'll probably start making smoothies for breakfast again. I can eat A LOT of veggies in smoothie form! I have a bunch of recipes I used to make that are low in sugar, which tends to be the tricky part with smoothies.

Exercise More
I hate outside. I hardly ever WANT to go outside. There's a short period between the cool, rainy spring weather and the sticky, humid summer weather...(and a little bit in fall too!) where I voluntarily get outside almost daily. And I don't like gyms either...but love yoga and pilates. So I'll plan to start the year doing videos at home and then look at some local places for monthly membership.

Be Present
It's so easy to be bogged down by all of the things constantly demanding our attention. Also, I have started to become frustrated when I realized I've picked up my phone with zero intent or I've navigated to some site or social media again, without realizing it.

Sewing Goals, Plans, etc

My 2018 plans were:

• 3 outerwear items
• Navy coat sewn, black coat is a UFO and possibly a wadder, trench coat didn't happen.

•  Loungewear and Sleepwear
• DONE! I love all of these items too!

•  Black workwear wardrobe
• Done! But the jacket didn't work out (it fit weirdly around the shoulders), the dress and pants are now too big, I've taken the skirt in a couple of times. I also plan on altering the dress.
• Replace my Birkin Flares
• I did not get this done. I really have the need for a couple pair of jeans but I have never felt like my hand was up to the task of cutting denim. The ivory skirt I just made took 2 sessions to get it cut out :/
• A nude-to-me Slip
• Nope. I did get some swatches from mood but never ordered. Maybe this fall.

  My 2018 goals/resolutions were:

•  No new fabric before May 1 - FAIL! lol!
• Well...that was before I knew I was going to SewCamp. I bought almost 90 yards of fabric between NYC and FM and bought a bunch more because I saw fabrics at Fabric Mart that hadn't yet made it to the website, took note of the stock numbers, and ordered all the things when I got home.
• Buy no more than 18 patterns   - FAIL!!
• I purchased 30 new patterns this year. I did give away the True Bias Landers; I didn't like the crotch curve and didn't want to bother fiddling with it to make them work.
• Tracking - Almost!
• I DID track the patterns I used and realized, using TNTs isn't that important to me yet. Yes, when the mojo is low or I've had a couple fails, I pull out a TNT to break the slump (usually). But I love new patterns. LOVE! LOL! Less than 25% of my 2018 garments were either TNTs -or - used more than once during the year.
• I did pay attention to success vs. fails along the way but didn't discuss that much.
• I lost steam on my outfit-a-day pics. 
• I tracked Fabric in/out totals
• I tracked sewing spending for the most part. I'm almost certain some purchases were missed, like popping into JA to buy a spool of thread for example.
• Sew at least 18 Burda mag patterns - Success!
• I sewed exactly 18. Setting a general goal like this of just making sure I use my mags works better than forcing myself to choose something from each issue. Many, many times, the magazine patterns have to grow on me a bit.
• Sewing community engagement - Ehhhhhh. LOL!
• I'm a cranky old lady at heart...I have been making sure I comment on blogs more. I just haven't found the energy to continue writing pattern reviews on PR though. I've tried to be more positive but I had a crappy year.
• Blogging - I ain't going nowhere! :-p
• I just can't get the same feel on IG as blogs. 

 My 2019 Goals and Plans!

Patterns:

• Sew minimum of 18 Burda mag patterns 
• Sew minimum of 4 Ottobre mag patterns - I have no intention of NOT subscribing so I should use them more. I often stop myself because "I don't know my sizing yet in Ottobre." Well, I'll never know if I don't sew them!
• BUY FEWER PATTERNS. OY! My son said he's going to open up a pattern store in the basement. Wah! LOL! 

Fabric:
Continue to be more mindful of fabric purchases. I feel like I need to cull my fabric as well. Having a stash is great for me and it isn't necessarily that it's too much (whatever that means!), but it's no longer organized and I KNOW there are pieces that just do not move me anymore...

I need it to fit on my Expedit and in the bins I have for it. I rotate out for fall/winter and spring/summer and the current season needs to fit on the Expedit! The out of season fabric needs to fit in the bins. 

And the bin of fabric that I keep in the sewing room for "upcoming projects" needs to fit in the bin!

Whew.

Skill Building

• Sew some menswear! Woohoo! I'm not sure why it didn't occur to me before but I suddenly realized (duh!), *I* can make hubby some jeans and a blazer! He has a hard time buying jeans and I keep telling him he needs a sportcoat. But his proportions are weird! He's 6'2" with EXTRA LONG arms but SUPER narrow shoulders and a small neck comparatively. Seems like it would be easier to sew him one than to find one that fits well or one that is good enough + alterations.
• Outerwear. Again. Aside from my down coats, my outerwear wardrobe is OLD. I have a few things in mind, yes, including the trench! I so wanted that Burda from April 2018 but I traced it off and didn't make it and now I'd have to trace it AGAIN a size smaller. IDK if that's going to happen :/

V1479

I really NEED a dress coat in black or camel or something neutral.

Burda 6845

• A Blazer. Argh! I've sewn lots of jackets. I didn't get to the Lisette jacket so it's going to happen early this year. 
• Party Clothes! Okay the SA dress was PARTY dress...but I also need other cute stuff! At least a couple of fun tops and a dress. 

That was a lot of words so I leave you with 1 teaser photo of my new wool jersey Butterick 6621 dress! :-D

Spoiler alert: I love it <3 I will have 3 dresses from this pattern when I review it! :-O

G.O.O.D.B.Y.E. 2018!!!

bleh.

That's how I feel about this year. Not that there weren't high points; but there were many, many, many lows. I am so over it. AND, I'm finishing out the year with the timing (I believe) on my machine suddenly going wonky on me and my old machine isn't working well.
So now I'm super cranky.

I haven't been reading blogs but I have seen the year-end posts rolling in, and it's one of my favorite times of year! It'll be nice to sit down and go through them all tomorrow :)

The big numbers!

• 141.5 - Yards sewn
• 78 - Garments sewn
• 239.25 - Yards purchased
• 33 - Patterns purchased

Somewhat interestingly, I sewed 39 garments Jan-June and 39 garments Jul-Dec! A lot more than last year (50) but last year I spent a few months not sewing because of my hand.

-Only 3 of those items were gifts - oops! :-p
-12 items that were wadders, fails, or ended up not working like I'd hoped and I have 1 actual UFO
-I sewed 6 garments specifically for events

I lost enough weight that I get why I had so much trouble with garments last year! I should have been sewing a size larger in most things. There are quite a few things that were purged this year and only a few that I am committed to altering.

	2015	2016	2017	2018
Chest	37	38	39	36
Bust	39.5	40	41.75	39.5
Waist	34.25	34.5	36	32.5
Belly (navel)	36.25	39	40.5	36
Hip	44.5	44.5	46	43.5

Alrighty! Charts!! Yay!!!

• Me and the tops. Eesh. 9 of them are out either because of fit, fabric, or just realizing I didn't like it much. That's 25%!  There were quite a few patterns I made multiples of too.
• I had 2 dress FAILS. Remember Butterick 6551? I also hated the way the color blocked New Look 6301 turned out. I have a couple other dresses that didn't make it primarily due to fabric. I have one UFO because my stitched neckline was just HORRIFIC.
• I made 7 pair of pants and 2 of those were for events/more one-time garments. 1 wadder, 2 that are too big and I'm unsure if I'm going to alter them. And one pair that's too big but I WILL alter them (Vogue 1522). So yeah, that category was kind of a bust.
• 7 skirts and so many sad faces. The trench skirt just doesn't work. I love it but it's high waist and I find it hard to wear (maybe it'll be easier in spring?), but I'm also thinking it's going to be too big. My Style Arc Mindi is too big (wah). But SUPER big win on my Butterick 6464 black mini and the In House Patterns mini skirt that's waiting for pics.
• I made 1 cardigan and didn't like it much (Ottobre)
• My wonderful navy Burda coat (YAY!) and my black alternative to the Clare coat. I had this in UFO territory but there's no way I can fit it. I'm going to pull it out just in case...but I recall it being somewhat looser than I liked when I made it.
• I made a host of garments for sleepwear and loungewear that are well-loved.

Not surprised by Burda mag / McCall's being the highest. I AM surprised that I made so few Simplicity patterns. They used to be a huge favorite. 

Indies sewn were:

1. True Bias Ogden x2
2. Grainline Felix
3. Baste & Gather Birkin Flares (wadder due to fabric)
4. Style Arc Mindi
5. In House Patterns New York Mini

This is kind of a "throwaway". I realized I'd made A LOT of jersey knit items so I filtered by fabric to check it out. I included the pie chart because as you can see, about half of my garments were knits! (this didn't cover all 78 garments; just the major types).

My favorite garments this year may be surprising as some of them are things I FUSSED about!

First up, and not photographed (for obvious reasons), the 4(!) versions of the Gertie B6301 slip. I made 4 nightgowns and they get a workout! I love them!!!
Despite the ill-fitting bodice, that M7745 makes me happy every time I look at it!
I wore the Grainline Felix A TON this summer. I reached for it very often!
Butterick 6378 is such a nice blouse; I made a second one that still needs to hit the blog.
M7465. Swoon. This was a perfect marriage of fabric+pattern.
B6330 because it was just perfect. I wore this at least one day of the weekend like, every weekend after I made it! DBP is out for me though unless I'm making something that I intend to be warm.

This white tee was just another of those "this is super awesome because it's exactly what I wanted!"
My winter white mini is EVERYTHING!!!  That new Butterick? 6621? I am cutting out the 3rd version (yeah). My V1323 top was my 2nd most liked IG pic (behind the Style Arc/Mimi G dress!)
B6464 is another basic that just makes me happy! And finally my wool melton coat that got me through most of the early days of winter.

And an honorable mention to this 2 year old UFO! M7392 was started in 2016 and I got it to the point of needing buttons/buttonholes and belt carriers. EVERYTHING else was done, topstitched, etc...but I couldn't fit it. At all. I'm so glad I hung on to it!

AND I made two quilts!

LIVES on our couch! <3

This was a gift for a new baby in the family

That's enough for now!  I'll be back in a couple of days to discuss the goals/plans I made for 2018 and to set out goals for 2019!

Thank you all for your lovely comments on my last post. :-D

Have a SUPER FANTASTIC AWESOME NEW YEAR!!!

Style Arc / Mimi G. Maya Dress

I don't have "typical" finished project pics...so you'll just have to take my word that it fits well!  Let's just start at the beginning, shall we?

I knew I wanted to make a dress for this 50th Bday bash we were attending. I don't really have any party dresses -- I have a couple that are suitable for work events -- but nothing for fun.

I went back and forth on this one y'all! I was like, but is it too much for me? I think it's me, but is it ME?? (that has to make sense to someone beside me!)

"But it's pretty covered up aside from the cutout..."
"Okay that front is too low..."
"Well it DOES have sleeves...maybe I can make it an inch longer..."

Then I went back and forth on the size chart. Style Arc tops have worked well for me; I have been able to sew a size 12 with no FBA! And so I ended up tracing a size 14. Why? I don't know why. If I normally wear a size 12 and it's been a minute since I've sewn a SA pattern AND I've lost weight...why on earth...never mind!

I made a muslin, it was enormous, and I had to retrace the pattern in a combo 10/12 (10 for the shoulder, 12 for the rest). :face palm:

Along the way, I decided that I didn't like this pattern. I didn't like how the front seam was almost complete vertical (but it works!).

I really did not like how the back seam was also completely vertical - there's a CB seam, a zipper, but not shaping?? And interestingly, there IS shaping below the zipper to fit the bum.

I almost added a back waist seam but instead of doing a swayback adjustment, I added some shaping to the upper back. I also sewed up the center front seam about 2.5". I needed to wear a bra! Lastly, I did a 1" full bicep adjustment. I was still on the fence on whether this was going to work. It's so fitted! It's so...so exposed!! :-p 

I got excited about it when it got to this point:

And held my breath and said a tiny prayer before trying on the dress and THEN it was love!

Wait! Let's backtrack a tiny bit!

The fabric. I wanted my beloved Telio jockey ponte for this dress. I couldn't justify nearly $40 with shipping and then when I finally decided, what the heck, I was worried it wouldn't arrive in time. I've seen a couple people rave about the Refined Ponte at JoAnn and decided to give it a shot. 1) "My" JA sucks. I avoid going in there (why I have a Club BMV membership for 5 years running!) and 2) My JA sucks and I did not have time to end up in line behind the fleece'ers and quilters. I placed an order online for pickup in my local store.

The regular price is $24.99 (never pay this) and it was on sale for $9.99. I could do $20...Well there was an additional 20% off coupon. It did not work on the website but it worked in the app! Huzzah! So I got 2 yards for $15.98. WIN! (We don't have tax on clothing here and fabric yardage counts as clothing)

It washed well but I immediately felt the difference between it and the Telio jockey. This feels reallll borderline scuba knit to me (I cannot with the scuba knits). It has a tiny bit of a sheen. It is not bad but when it's sitting next to the Telio, you can tell. It's much heavier and spongier too. I probably won't buy it again.

*****

Okay so now I have my pattern cut out in the correct size. I AGAIN am going back and forth --I never hem and haw this much over any project-- on lining for the front. In the end, I used self fabric. Though the fabric is thick, I think it worked well for me!

Because Style Arc instructions kind of suck all the time sometimes, I thought only the CF was lined and thought it was odd that the side front wasn't but shrugged and kept going (I still am not 100% sure if it's lined or not!).

The bodice band and facing are sewn together to the bodice, facing under stitched, then the other seam burrito'd. Nice and clean.

my back facing is off because I sewed up one side and down the other. oy.

The shoulder seam is finished cleanly as well. The only place I'd known this finish was on cowl necks and that's the way I always refer to it...like you sew a cowl! :)

IDK why the back facing and front facing don't match

In true sewers fashion, I finished this dress Friday evening at about 6 p.m. We were getting up at 3:30 a.m. Saturday to hit the road. Oy vey!!!

I bought these teal suede pumps on about 5 years ago for $15 and I've gotten my money's worth 10 times over! I love them!!!

It definitely looked best with heels - didn't work IMO with boots - but, winter. I figured we'd be going car to venue; venue to car and I could survive with some cute tights.

I have to admit...I felt pretttttty snazzy that night! 

Lastly, I have to give Style Arc it's due. I have never, ever, never sewn a mitered corner. I have never understood instructions for them and had pretty much given up until I could have someone show me in person. Well, this pattern taught me. Kinda.

The pattern is drafted such that you fold at the notch and stitch along the line at the included 3/8" seam allowance.

I was AMAZED when I turned it out and got this:

AMAZED!!!!!

And it still took me a few tries to understand what was happening :-p

step 1: hem allowances marked. Short diagonal line is the fold line. Long diagonal that I'm pointing to is the stitching line.

step 2: fold and stitch

step 3: trim, clipping the corner (like you would for any point)

step 4: turn it out (I personally never poke or grab corners. I put my thumb inside, making sure the two edges fold into the space created by the clipped corner, and using my index finger, push it out. Sometimes you have to give it a wiggle!)

step 5: press...

step 6: ooooh la la! admire your fantastic corner!

So now that I can miter corners, I am pretty much a sewing ninja. Yeah so... Ha!!

I have other unreviewed stuff, just sewed a pair of pants over the past few days and will be starting on my In House Patterns mini skirt tomorrow...the Lisette Butterick jacket after that (they're from the same fabric). Then I'm going to sew the ponte blazer from Burda 1/2019.

That sounds like a lot but I have ALL THE FREE TIME! I'll be home alone Friday-Monday so there's going to be some serious sewing. :)

Until later!

Butterick 6464 Ponte Skirt

I am so behind. Whine! Beware, not-so-good photos ahead! They will have to suffice.

Isn't it funny how really simple/basic garments can allude us? I have wanted a black mini for forever. I went back and forth on whether I wanted it to be knit or woven and after I sewed the Telio Jockey ponte for the first time, it was for sure going to be knit.

I ordered this from Fabric.com. I know I fuss about them but I end up going back because they have some lines that I like and their shipping policy is so favorable. Sighhhhhh.

This pattern is Butterick 6464, a Lisette pattern. I actually didn't care for the top or topper in this pattern and passed on it, even though I wanted the skirt. After looking around a bit, going back and forth on whether I'd just add style lines to an existing pattern, I ended up buying it. I think the skirt is worth $1.99!

It's a black skirt. I tried several times to take somewhat decent pics but it just wasn't happening.

 

I cut a size 16 and decided on a finished length of 17" and just shortened from the hem. I ended taking slightly larger seam allowances after basting but didn't want to go too far. Because the elastic is inserted into the waistband and then the entire unit is attached to the skirt, it's a little tougher to accurately gauge fit. I didn't want it too snug, because it's short, but didn't want the waist to feel loose. It turned out okay. The waistband could be slightly tighter but it isn't falling down or anything!

There is some really nice shaping in the back skirt IMO! I could have still done a small wedge, but otherwise, it fits nicely. Those aren't just style lines!

I would show you the pic taken before this laughing pic but it really does not belong on the internet! LOL! I am always snapping as I move around because I like catching candid shots (like the pic on the right!) But I was rubbing my eye and making THIS FACE!!!!! and it was just...oh my word. No on eneeds to see it! LOL!

 

Normally when topstitching, I just use a slightly bigger needle and two spools of thread through the same needle. I'd seen people mention using the triple stitch for topstitching.

Never. Again.

It turned out fine but it was so slow and time consuming, and I felt like I was sitting there for-everrrrrr (drama llama! lol!!!)

Work has been BUSY, I had a quick jot out of town, and then I lost almost the entire past week to a migraine. UGH.

I have another version of B6378 to review. I made the Style Arc / Mimi G collaboration dress for the party I attended, and I made M7812 which I hope is salvageable but if not, I may squeak out another version. 

I desperately need to clean my sewing room and plan out my sewing for vacation. And I need finish up my analysis of 2018 sewing.

WHEW!

This space will be busy! :)