General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread
This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, how to get started on a project, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between. There ar
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I know Halloween is over but some folks love goth style all year long, and for my gal's holiday gift this year I decided to build her a coffin bookcase! I didn't make any plans, it was all in my head (I tend to do that with all my projects). It was built on a tight budget so it's not high grade wood or paint as I would have liked, but hey, it's lightweight, sturdy, and level! And for only using a circular saw, drywall screws, and wood glue that's a win in my book haha! And remember it's a gift... shhhh don't tell! :)
PS - I'm not sure if imgur sorted the album properly so I titled them numerically if it is out of order, sorry about that.
Hello everyone. I’ll start off by saying I am 100% new to anything DIY regarding shower construction- so any constructive criticism will be appreciated and taken into consideration.
So, I recently purchased a tiny home that was 90% complete. We just finished all the plumbing and are now getting creative with a DIY shower floor since we’d need a very small custom shower pan which are incredibly expensive. I found myself in a wealth of dominoes and thought they’d make pretty funky tiles.
I realized that dominoes have a “spinner” in the center which is metal. I was wondering if anyone could weigh in on the best approach for coating the dominoes so the spinners don’t rust over time.
PU or epoxy? Or maybe another material Im not aware of. Any other advice or suggestions are welcome, as I’m sure this is going to be a giant learning curve for me. Thanks for your time.
I'm planning to build a ~250 linear foot wood fence around the backyard of a home in Oklahoma City. My question / confusion revolves around burying the posts.
Details:
What I know:
Where the confusion is: On DIY / How To videos, everyone always installs post like one of these options:
1) Dig hole that's slightly rounder than post, drop in post, pour concrete around it.
or
2) Dig hole that's slightly rounder than post, pour a few inches of gravel at the bottom, drop in post, pour gravel around it, build up small mound of gravel / dirt slightly above ground level.
The first option sounds terrible because concrete / quikrete is porous and will likely just lock in moisture like having a sponge around the fence post and it'll likely rot pretty bad in 2-3 years time. It'll also be a pain to replace the posts since I'll have to pull up the concrete with the post.
The second option sounds terrible because even with gravel, there will still be a lot of water near the post, and it'll especially pool during heavy rains since the layers of clay in Oklahoma are slow to soak up water. I give this 4-5 years before the fence posts have rotted pretty badly.
Now, the above suggestions were all made on Lowe's / Home Depot / other DIY blogs (I even saw a wood fence on /r/DIY that looks like the posts were just buried in dirt) -- however, they all suggest the following for the posts of a wood deck:
3) Dig 6 inches below the frost line. Place a few inches of gravel, pour in concrete / quickrete with an embedded anchor bolt exposing ~1 inch of threading. Attach a post bracket to the anchor bolt, then put your post in the bracket.
Option 3 seems to be practically the same amount of work as options 1 and 2, uses a bit more concrete, an anchor bolt, and a bracket -- but that supply price difference seems pretty small - and since I'm not burying any of the post, each post can be ~2 feet shorter than options 1 or 2. The difficulty seems about the same, yet the ability to easily repair / replace posts later is much better.
So my question is basically:
Option 1, 2, 3, or some other alternative for burying the posts.
Bonus question:
I know I need to dig past the frost line, but how far past the frost line?
Hello,
I wall mounted my TV which is on studs within drywall. I've done this before in my living room and used a Powerbridge kit to run the power and be code compliant (from Canada).
However, the tv I installed in my bedroom won't fit a powerbridge kit. The wall isn't recessed enough for the power bridge to sit flat. Only 1/3 - 1/2 of the kit outlet goes in. This is due to the concrete wall that's behind the studs/dry wall (about 2 to 2.5" )
Does anyone have any recommendations? I really wanted to hide ie without using a plastic cord cover. Can the powerbridge kit just hang and not sit flush? Or is this unsafe?
Thank you
I love DIY projects and crafting...I get that from my dad.
This year he asked for a slingshot for Christmas and instead of just buying him one I would love to find a kit so he can make/build his own. He does metal & wood work already and is also a great artist in general.
Does anyone know of anywhere I could find some kind of kit so he could do it himself or would I have to maybe gather the materials and some directions and DIY his DIY gift lol???
Thanks for the help.
I'm installing 3/4 inch aspen tongue and groove wall panelling in an internal room. Now when I've done drywall I've added a nailing stud to the corner of the wall when there wasn't a stud within 4" of the corner, do I need to do this with the aspen? It seems like it's stiff enough that nailing a foot or so away from the corner is probably fine.
What do you all think?
Hello !
I have to control a brushless motor pump, like the schematic below :
https://puu.sh/C90Ov/c5a08fb99f.png
The thing that makes me wonder, and I could not find an answer, is that the pump only has 2 wires, and I don't see an ESC. Is it normal for a brushless to only have two wires ? And do you think the ESC could be hidden in that "Buck" module ?
Thank you !
So, u/goodlyearth was kind enough to post his doors, I told him I would post mine as a comparison for people to look at.
I was converting my daughter's closet doors from old bi-fold types to bypass and did not like anything I saw at the local big boxes and the stuff I did like was $400+ per door. Screw that I told my wife! I can build this!
What did I get myself into?
I did some searching around Pinterest and who doesn't love that site?! I got some inspiration from the site, but as far as I can tell the process was completely made by me. Also, husbands/boyfriends/spouses/etc, don't let your significant other browse Pinterest while you are knee deep in a home improvement project. It's dangerous!
These doors were created using 2x8's and 1x4's from the local big box. As well as some dowels from American Woodworkers Supply. I try to buy local when I can but buying dowels in bulk seems to be really hard for some reason. Overall cost for each door was about $20 each. I didn't want to use extremely high quality wood since I was going for authenticity and also because I didn't want to screw anything up too bad.
The biggest specialty tool was the self-centering dowel jig, which I highly recommend for anyone doing doweling on their projects. Other than that pretty standard stuff saws, sander, drills, and a good mallet.
Thanks for looking and if you have any questions about the process don't hesitate to ask!
So my bathroom sink was draining very slowly so I decided to YouTube it up. I got all the necessary supplies and I thought things were going great until this happened: the problem
I need to know if there is an item that will connect these two things.
The P-drain says it is 1.5 by 1.25 (whatever that means)
The plastic pop up assembly is this one
This is my first real attempt at a DIY plumbing attempt so I don’t know any real lingo other then the small vocabulary I picked up watching a few YouTube videos (so dumb down any explanations please). Is there a connector of some kind that exists or do I need to trade in my current purchase for a different setup and if so, what kind?
I have a new address plaque to mount but have been unable to remove the old one. It's wood and appears to be mounted on a floating bracket - no screws through the face. It's very solid and doesn't move even when hit from the side with a hammer (I've tried all four directions). The top and bottom will flex when pried, but I don't want to damage the stone facade.
I know there's a reasonable way to pull this down as the house painters did so a couple years ago, but my Google - foo is failing me.
https://i.imgur.com/yRGzWzf.jpg
Thanks for any ideas you can offer!
I'm currently (slowwwwly) gutting and renovating one of our bathrooms, and the plumbers came to do their thing. Part of the work was to move everything around, and they installed a new drain line. In doing so, they drilled HUGE holes through all of the studs of an exterior wall (including breaking through the face of the stud), and one of the studs is also now cracked.
My original plan (since the studs aren't vertical) was to sister on new 2x4/2x6s to square up the room and make the wall vertical. Now, with the plumbing installed, I'll have to cut them short, so it's not a full-length structural reinforcement. I was thinking about stud shoes to try to support everything, but am concerned it's not going to be enough to pass an inspection/keep the side of my house on.
Pictures are here, feedback and/or fix ideas appreciated
Hi Guys,
The Fan on my Furnace/AC has been continuously running for several weeks now. I'm sure this is going to kill me on the upcoming power bill, but I'm looking into what might be the issue. I'm sure it's not limited to the heating system, as this was going on when the A/C was on as well.
I have a Honeywell (Peaksaver) thermostat (not sure of the model #, there's wayyy too much information on the unit). It's a 4-wire setup (Red=RC, White=W, Green=C, Black=K). My initial research suggests that there might be an issue with the thermostat or the board in the furnace. While I'm not sure how I would trouble shoot the board, I do have another Honeywell thermostat I could test. My issue with this is that the older honeywell doesn't have a connection for K or C. My further research would suggest that my "Green C" wire, is very likely a modified G wire, and it looks like the "K wire" can go to the Y port.
(I have lived in this house since 2015 and have not made any personal modifications to any of the HVAC equipment).
My first question is: Assuming my "Green C" is a modified G wire, could I connect it to the G port in the old thermostat? Could this cause any issues? (I don't really want to change it back, as apparently this setup works fine for a nest, which was my eventual plan anyway).
Another question I have is that I have read that a "Green C" wire comes from modifying the fan control wire. As this removes the ability to run the fan automatically, could something have failed here to cause the fan to stay on? (Power outage, etc?)
Lastly, I have also read that the persistent fan running could be due to one of the limiter switches. I wanted to test the thermostat first, but in case it's not that, is there a safe way to test these? My understanding is that these work like a fuse, and while they could fail if they're old etc, they may also fail for a reason. Is there anything to look out for?
Thanks for any help :)
Hi - Here's the album: https://imgur.com/a/YvJ6nJZ
We moved house a few years ago and when we were moving this piece of marble from the coffee table it snapped, I'm pretty sure it had snapped previously and been glued back together.
It was originally sat on top of a metal rectangular frame but I don't want to use that, mainly because it looks horrible but it also has no support in the middle so any pressure on the marble joint would probably break it again.
I'm planning to glue the marble back together then glue it to a wooden board that is smaller than the marble (so you won't see it) and then support the whole thing on two prong hairpin legs.
I've got a couple of questions if anyone can help.
Any help/criticism/warnings welcome.
Begin by cutting a 2 x 12 piece of pine at 28”, and then find the centre of the board. I used 8” dog bowls for this project. For a perfect fit, use a jigsaw and cut your hole 7 ¾”. Don’t forget to drill a small hole within the circle for a place to start your saw.
https://i.redd.it/bvwn1ri57x021.png
https://i.redd.it/iogpbtg67x021.png
https://i.redd.it/3nudal387x021.png
Using a roundover router bit, soften all the edges before sanding smooth with 80-grit sandpaper and working your way up to 150-grit. Finish the wood with your choice of stain.
https://i.redd.it/fez13hga7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/7orq75va7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/l3sfoq0c7x021.png
I used 1” iron pipe for the legs, which consisted of: eight flanges, two 5” pipes, four 3” pipes, four 2” pipes, and four tee fittings. Secure these to the underside of the wood using ¾” wood screws.
https://i.redd.it/llt92vjd7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/ik233hyd7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/3n01qhwf7x021.png
On the bottom I added furniture pads to keep the pipe flanges from scratching the floor. You could add some varnish or epoxy to the top for a waterproof finish.
https://i.redd.it/6eri56rg7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/4kwnq53h7x021.png
https://i.redd.it/bqaljghh7x021.png
To watch the full video click below:
I'm working on a project and I kind of built myself into a corner; I'm wondering if anyone might be able to help me out.
I'm building an end table that I want to use as a storage unit. (Side note, I started this project as a way to use up scrap material so this is my excuse for any strange design choices that may come to light).
The table is just a cube. Right now it has five sides made out of 5/8 plywood and the door is inset/flush with the open edges when it's on. My plan is to put a 1/4 plywood panel on each face (these were some nice old fir plywood that I've etched some art work into, so this part is important). The panel that is going over the door is going to cover the door panel and the edges of the other sides.
The problem is that I don't think conventional (hidden) hinges will accommodate the way this door is made (not enough clearance on the back edge of the 1/4" panel when swinging open). I've looked around at several specialty hinges and tried to figure out a way to make other styles work, but I don't think anything has been viable so far.
Can anyone think of a way to get this door to swing open without the front panel getting caught on the sides? (Hinges can't be visible).
Hi r/DIY. We bought a new vanity and the drain doesn’t line up with the existing plumbing pics. The old vanity had the sink on the far right and the new vanity has the sink in the center. Relocating the wall drain is out of the question, I don’t want to open the wall and it’s a metal pipe back there so I’m guessing it’s an expensive job better left to the pros.
How would you recommend I navigate this? I was hoping to do it all with slip joints and nuts, but I’m not afraid of learning to cut and glue pvc if required. Is it easy to connect these p-trap kits with schedule 40 PVC? I’d like to avoid cutting into the bottom of this vanity but that would mean I need to slope down to the drain. I’d also like to maximize space in this cabinet which would mean having the drain go straight back after the p-trap. But would that mean too many 90 degree turns?
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