Monthly Archives: February 2016

North Bar, Harrogate

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North Bar exteriorYou expect somewhere that’s only been open for a week to be popular and North Bar’s latest venture in Harrogate is really busy at 2000hrs Saturday 27th February. Quite a strange crowd, locals and young studenty types with halves of craft beer mixing with well heeled thirty to forty somethings sitting at tables, the chaps drinking beer and the ladies glasses of wine, absolutely; plus a few older ‘weekend break’ types who invade Harrogate at the weekend, obviously.

The bar counter sits to your right as you enter; watch the step. There’s a couple of tables and a sort of ledge affair around the windows facing the bar and at the same height, where you can sit on tall stools. At the far end of the room, there’s an area of tables and chairs on a slightly lower level.

North Bar tables

Even if you miss the subtle signage, you can tell it’s a North Bar instantly because they have achieved that same steamed up windows effect that the original (in my all time top ten) North Bar on Upper Briggate has and similarly, as soon as I walked in (watch the step), it was glasses off, de-misting cloth out. I guess it’s just something about North Bar, maybe the sort of premises they take over, or the amount of punters they get in?

North Bar Cups

Despite being busy the very helpful staff quickly served everybody, dispensing advice and recommendations as well as offering try before you buy tasters. There are twelve quality draught keg beers on, plus three hand pulled cask ales. After wandering round Harrogate all afternoon drinking real ales, it’s time to go to the keg and a pint of the local Bad Co  Wild Gravity (5.2%) and half of Magic Rock Ginspired (6.4%) cost me £7.75. Very nice though and Wild Gravity is one of my regulars, both in keg and cask, I’m not sure which I prefer, they are subtly different. Second visit to the bar was a pint and a half of far too quaffable, for the ABV, Victory Hop Devil (6.7%), before it was time to retreat to the bus station. Only criticism of the bar arrangements was because it was so busy, I couldn’t see all the taps and there was no tap list behind the bar, although there is a very sizeable bottle menu to peruse. Message to North Bar; get a big tap list up please, and have a look at that nasty little step at the front door.

As well as the beer, you can also get coffee, tea and stuff like that, as well as snacks to light meals, including breakfast which means they open at 0800hrs Monday to Friday, 0900hrs Sat and 1000hrs Sun. Closing time is 2300hrs apart from Friday and Saturday when you get an extra hour. Apparently there’s an upstairs function room and an outside terrace somewhere, but I couldn’t find them, even when I got lost going to the toilets which are up a couple of flights of, to me, quite confusing steps. They’re well appointed though, with that intentional? Trendy? Not quite finished sort of look, or is someone coming back to paint the doors? There are only two closets in the gents and no urinal, which might be a mistake because swampy has definitely visited Harrogate tonight. Whoever did this definitely tripped over that nasty little step on the way in, absolutely.

North Bar inside

Verdict, definitely a winner, it will still be busy in two months, two years and hopefully two decades. Harrogate has a nice selection of different, but all excellent, pubs and bars serving first rate real ales and craft beers. North Bar Harrogate is a welcome addition to the scene and from my visit it was obvious they’ve captured the original North Bar ethos and feel here.

Sadly, because of the pricing on the otherwise very excellent Harrogate and District Bus Co. we do’t go drinking in Harrogate that often, owing to the fact that it’s £7.20 return on the 770/1 service when compared to the £4 return ticket to the equi-distant (appx. 13 miles) Leeds City centre. I know they will say it’s due to the West Yorkshire Metro subsidy on bus fares, or lack of in North Yorkshire, but Harrogate and District Bus Co. Why £4 return to Wetherby which is in W.Yorks and only three and a half miles away from Clifford? Anyway, if the bus prices ever come down I will be a regular at North Bar Harrogate, in the meantime I will continue in earnest on Upper Briggate, absolutely.

Oh, and did I tell you to watch the step as you come in?

The Pen Factory – Liverpool Revisited

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Pen FactoryThe Neo Gothic monolith that is the Anglican Cathedral didn’t disappoint, but apart from that, things weren’t going too well on my Liverpool revisited trip. Wandering round the streets at the top end of Hope Street, I couldn’t for the life in me remember where The Somali club was. I kept getting a taste of the veg curry and rice they served up at 50p a bowl, but that was as close as I got, so I gave up looking and walked down to the Catholic end of Hope Street in search of The Everyman Bistro.

Now I have to say that without doubt, The Everyman Bistro is on my all time top ten list of pubs and bars, with the caveat of ‘at the time’, which was 1981- 83 roughly. On that basis, I think I’m sort of setting myself up for another disappointment, but I’m resigned to it not being the same because I read it had changed hands and the old owners had started up again in a new place.

Back in the early eighties, I wasn’t entirely sure what a Bistro was meant to be. If I’m honest I’m not entirely sure what the Everyman was, apart from something really good. It wasn’t a pub, but felt a bit like one, it was definitely more than a bar and it did food. You could always walk in and find someone you knew, an almost Bohemian, cultural hot bed, full of like minded souls where no one gave two whatnots about what you looked like, which in my case, at that time, was useful. Unusually, at a time when most public houses were tied, they had two or three different real ales on, from different breweries.

Thankfully the Everyman theatre hadn’t moved, but the bistro wasn’t obvious so we went next door into the place I had read about, The Pen Factory  and got a bit of a surprise.

Pen Factory Bar

There’s a bit of repetition and convergence here because The Pen Factory isn’t a pub neither, but it’s a lot more than a bar, it’s not a restaurant, but you can get food. You can get beer too, six real ales on hand pulls; Titanic Stout, Titanic Plum Porter, Mallinson’s SPA, Hawkshead Lakeland Gold, Ossett Silver King and Liverpool Organic Brewery Cascade. I think you’ll agree that’s quite a decent selection from across the North of England, including a local representative. We had an SPA and a Cascade, both of these excellent ales were on top form. They also serve a couple of real ciders, plus a bottle selection.

Typically, for Liverpool, whilst I’m stood at the bar weighing things up, deciding what to have, this random chap comes up to me and in a softly spoken voice asks what I was looking for? I told him I was after the Everyman Bistro circa 1982 and explained about my thirty years on re-visit. He laughed and introduced himself as Paddy Byrne, the guy who originally opened The Everyman Bistro on September 26th 1976. He put me straight on The Somali club. No wonder I couldn’t find it, it disappeared long ago. He also told me about the ups and downs of the Everyman over the years, the politics between theatre and bistro and how they had eventually bought out the whole building. Eventually selling up and opening The Pen Factory on Wednesday 3rd December 2014, sort of … well … next door!

Pen Factory Paddy Byrne

Mr Paddy Byrne

Back in the seventies, Paddy’s idea had been to create something along the lines of a German Bier Keller or beer garden. Somewhere with the feel of the old Les Routiers recommended Auberges, when you went travelling; good food, good drink, quality discourse. If you were ever fortunate enough to have been to The Everyman Bistro, then you’ll know he pulled it off and along with his team he’s managed to do it again with  The Pen Factory.

“Why the Pen Factory Paddy,” I asked?

“That’s what it was, a pen factory,” came back Paddy’s reply.

Apparently it was the Amalgamated Gold Nib Company in it’s final guise and Paddy pointed out the old strongroom with it’s massive iron door in the foyer. There’s been quite a bit of work done on the premises since and Paddy explained how they had opened up the windows on the South side and created a terraced garden area which he said was an idyllic enclosed haven in the summer. He would wouldn’t he, but then again, I believe him,  because he’s got everything else right.

Pen Factory garden

The decor is sort of a cross between Ikea and a recycled secondary school; science lab style stools and pale wooden school/church hall chairs with a slot in the back to put your hymn book, they probably had ESA stamped on them somewhere? There were even elements of the old Everyman with the original clock from behind the bar hanging on a wall.

I thought the prices were pretty reasonable, in fact, for a city centre, dirt cheap at £3 a pint for standard strength ales and I think I surprised Paddy when I told him I would expect to be paying around £3.60 in a similar sort of place at home. He told me that although The Pen Factory is keeping pretty busy the local market wouldn’t stand anything near that.

Pen Factory inside

One of the Everyman stand outs was really good food, at a reasonable price and with Paddy’s mate and chef Tom Gill in charge of the kitchen The Pen Factory is following the same theme. If I’ve got any regrets, it was that we had already planned our dining arrangements before we visited and didn’t get chance to try anything.

We made a second visit in the evening. Paddy was still there, front of house, meeting and greeting, making sure everything was just so. The bar was at 70% capacity roughly, which isn’t bad for a big space on Thursday night, plenty of people, some sitting, a few vertical drinkers around the bar. Some were eating, some were drinking, some were doing both, everyone was chatting. It’s the sort of place that can harmoniously accommodate all sorts of people, doing all sorts of things, all at the same time.

Pen Factory inside II

Overall The Pen Factory is my kind of place, nearly The Everyman Bistro Mk II. A nice selection of well kept ales in a very civilised environment. It probably wouldn’t suit the old Albert Dock type character from the Higson’s beer mats, with his flat cap and half of mild, but it suits me and I am obliged to take this opportunity to make a public thank you.

I’m a big believer that wherever we go in life we always take something away with us; sights, sounds, tastes, feelings from our experiences. Sometimes we don’t even notice what’s happened, occasionally events hit us full on. Liverpool had significant impact and I took a large piece away with me, packing it into that internal storage space where it got mixed up with lots of other stuff, becoming moulded and blended into what I am now. My piece of Liverpool contains a big slice of The Everyman Bistro, a place which fostered creativity and provided memories that will never be forgotten. I thank you Paddy Byrne for creating that place and I’m sorry that it had to come to an end, but I’m really pleased that you’ve undertaken a new venture next door. Okay The Pen Factory might not have exactly the same early eighties feel to it, but it’s got … you know that sort of feeling where everything just slots into place and immediately feels right. I can’t describe it, it’s just something you sense. Anyway Paddy, thank you for all your efforts, thank you for your time. I wish you well and I hope to see you again before another thirty years have elapsed!

Liverpool revisited and The Baltic Fleet

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Baltic Fleet sign

People always say it’ll never be the same again. You can’t recreate something that was really good, really special, so you should never go back. I sort of held with that for a while, a good while actually, but after thirty years I decided that the time had come to go back and have another look at Liverpool. It can’t have changed that much can it?

I first landed in the fair city of Liverpool in September 1981 and went hard at it for the next two years. I went in loads of Liverpool pubs, by no means just the student ones neither. Many are just a blur, amongst vague memories of clubs and bands. I remember the big town ones; The Crown, The Central, The Vines. The Grapes on Matthew Street and those down Smithdown Road. A few really stand out in my memory, for various reasons: The Everyman Bistro, Peter Kavanagh’s, The Philharmonic and The Somali club.

Everything looked pretty familiar as we walked out of Lime Street towards the neo-classical splendour of St Georges Hall, the Walker Art Gallery and Wellington a top his column. Roe Street was still busy with buses and women with shopping bags trailing kids and prams.

It wasn’t until we got onto Dale Street that I realised something was wrong. The heart of the business district seemed quiet, a bit like being in town on a Sunday afternoon, you know when Sunday afternoons were Sunday afternoons and not much happened. I looked round to see where everyone had gone as I walked across the empty street without even having to look out for traffic and all I saw were signs saying, ‘To Let. May sell’, above empty offices?

It was a different story at the Pier Head which was busy with tourists and reminded me of a set of Higson’s beer mats depicting notorious fictitious Scousers. Pierre Head being the one that came to mind, a sort of caricature on one side and a pen portrait on the reverse. I can remember some of the others but by no means all of them; Norris Green and Doc Road were two. I wished I’d collected a set now, instead I sat and tore dozens of them up. I must have pissed off loads of bar staff. Sorry, I don’t do it now – no ash trays.

We walked to the Albert Dock, which was somewhere the city burghers would have warned tourists away from when I was eighteen. I’ll be honest and say that the corporate coffee houses and chain restaurants of the development, the state of the art arena and the sort of connecting Liverpool One development aren’t really my scene, so we walked on down the Dock Road and left the half term visitors to their artificial world.

I was heading for the brooding red monolith of the Anglican Cathedral, principally because you can see it, but mostly because that’s where they presented me with my degree in 1985. I hadn’t intended going to The Baltic Fleet and it was still a bit early in the day, but we sort of just fell into it.

Baltic Fleet ext

The Baltic Fleet is an island of Victorian pubiness in a sea of redevelopment and the only remnant of anything from the 1800’s within at least 100yds radius. Architecturally it’s a cracker, sort of a poor man’s flat iron building, almost a triangular pub. Inside it’s all a bit bare bricks and floor boards, and empty grey paint. As you walk in the door, having passed two dusty portals that seem no longer used, you enter a large room with the bar in the middle looking out through the windows onto the Dock Road. You can actually walk right around behind the bar through a little snug and into a back room which is served from a hatch.

As you enter there’s a redolence of resinous smoke, unfortunately it was the remnants of previous conflagrations and none of the wood burners were lit that lunch time, which was a pity because even though it was sunny there was that cold clammy breeze blowing up the river. I’d forgot all about the gelidity that climbs up from the Mersey, nithering every part of the town. What I hadn’t forgotten was that Liverpudlian wit and repartee that always guarantees a warm welcome.

Baltic Fleet inside

It wasn’t busy when we called in and I’m only an average punter, but I was disappointed with the welcome, or lack of. The ditzy bar maid, looked like she had just walked off the set of ITV’s Cilla and was reserving conversation solely for the small clique of who were obvious regulars and the bloke who’s doing the brewing. Maybe she just thought we were just a couple of tourists, lost, searching for a spot of reality?

In terms of beer, I had expected a bit more choice. Altogether there were seven hand pumps on the bar, two were ciders, one had the clip turned round, which left us with a choice of four draught real ales. Surprisingly only one from the in house Wapping brewery, any further evidence of it’s existence, beyond the chalk board outside, being sparse to non existent? I’m not sure what the empty pump was, some gadgie was pulling ale through, holding it up, tasting it and throwing it away, it looked like a darker beer but it didn’t come on line while we were in.

Baltic Fleet taps

The sole house beer, Wapping Summer ale (4.2%) was a pleasant easy going golden ale, Liverpool Craft Brewing Toast (4.2%), was a darker amber with, comparatively, just a touch of sharpness at the front end, but pleasant once you got going. Both were fresh and in excellent form though and I’d rather have a small selection of beer in good condition than a broader selection of mediocrity.

I was going to say I went in at the wrong time, the notice board said there were loads of events which would have attracted more than the dozen or so who were in at my visit (including three staff). Having said that, one thing that became noticeable over three days was that not much does happen in Liverpool during the day apart from shopping and people with kids looking at things. Either way, The Baltic Fleet was distinctly lacking in the atmosphere stakes and was either a taxi ride or too far to walk back to from town, so we left it at that.

Arcadia, Headingley

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Arcadia signI had intended doing a review on this place almost a year ago. Unfortunately they wouldn’t let us in, something which is still a talking point with our little group of drinkers, average age, 47 years, you can read about it here if you want. Thankfully this policy is not the norm and I am able to call in for a pint quite often in the civilised surroundings of Arcadia, Headingley. It’s not quite a pub, in so far as it is, from memory, a bank, converted in the mid noughties. It’s more than a bar though and it has grown from one of the first wave of real ale bars that sprung up into almost a pub which unfortunately being constructed from said converted shops in the Headingley Arndale centre it can, in my eyes, never become, and anyway it never allowed smoking from the off.

It’s pretty decent though and in ethos follows that of it’s fellow establishments in the Market Town Taverns stable. What it does do, and always has done is break the mould of the other Otley run establishments which is something that Headingey did and still does need. Although there are plenty of students who do go in, it’s so civilised that everyone queues up in a line at the bar, a phenomenon which also occurs at other MTT premises. I don’t like queuing and I’m not particularly happy about crushing free for alls neither, so I’m not sure where I stand on this one?

ArcadiaI’ve never fathomed out why everyone goes upstairs? I prefer the more pubby aspect around the bar counter to that of the, could be sort of anywhere, mezzanine level. I discovered why this happens the other night because it was absolutely freezing and we were sat near the front door which is a bit slow to close, letting in icy breaths of cold air in every time it operates and as the 8.00pm deadline for the Monday evening quiz night got closer it opened more and more frequently until we had to move.
In terms of decor, it is a bit like a converted retail unit with bare board floor, just with a few pictures, a bit of breweriana and a mezzanine floor thrown in. Pleasant, but a touch bland. I’m guessing, but I reckon Arcadia bet BrewDog in the recycled gymnasium floor stakes, which faces one of the downstairs walls, by a good few years? I’ve never seen a lighting feature fashioned from old crates before neither, wacky, but it works.

Arcadia crates

Toilets? Pretty decent, you’d happily go for a number two, but needs a stronger hand dryer in the gents. You know, one of the hoover man’s blade runner extreme G-force skin wobbling ones. Well, everywhere else decent have them now, don’t they?

So, why do you keep going to this recycled retail unit in a dated Seventies shopping centre Rich, I hear you all ask? Well for one the regulars are all pretty cool and there’s a nice atmosphere. Secondly, you are guaranteed a decent glass of beer and I’ve never had a bad one. You can add this as a refrain to all the MTT places I frequent, although I have not by any means been in all of them. Skipton, Northallerton? We don’t go that far on holiday!

Arcadia tap listJoking apart, eight cask ale lines, eight keg lines, including decent lagers, fruit beers and stronger craft style beers – there was a tempting, but too strong for the occasion, Ossett Brass Castle collaboration Rampart (7%) £2.75 per half, at the last visit. The cask ale lines always include O’Kells Bitter, an excellent MTT standard, owing to the fact they’re both owned by parent company Heron and Brearley . In addition there always seems to be a Timmy Taylors and or Black Sheep,  plus an ever changing selection of guest ales. The fact they had Dark Star  Partridge Best Bitter (4%) on gives you an idea of the quality of what they throw at you. Prices vary, but on my last visit Mary Jane  (3.5%) was the cheapest at £3.00 a pint, closely followed by O’Kells at £3.15. Despite the blackboard displaying First COP, First Chop Red was the dearest at £3.60 and after a few trials, I ended up having a few pints of this very tasty rye ale. If you want to sample a bit of everything they do thirds and obligingly offer tasters. Taking all things into account, I think they’re comparatively reasonable price wise and there is a choice to suit all pockets.

Arcadia clipsOverall, best boozer by far in Headingley, even though it isn’t really a pub. In fact, if you like a good selection of real and more modern styles of ale, at a reasonable price in pleasant surroundings and your not bothered that it isn’t a pub, then it’s the best bar between the city centre and the next MTT or North bar offering (there are others), which would be Meanwood then. On the basis of that comment, it is pretty evident that the phenomena which is The British Beer Revolution does not only exist in the centre of the Leeds metropolis and is well and truly established in the suburbs.

Save The Henry Peacock!

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CbZrRCBWAAAlVUz.jpg-largeI’m realistic enough to recognise when a pub is failing and I’ll be very honest and say I wouldn’t lift a finger to save an insect trapped in a fluorescent light fitting, you know the one, it buzzes on for a while but everyone knows it’s doomed to undergo gradual desiccation.

But what about the empty pub that someone wants to take on, to revive, to nurture and restore to order and the former glory of years gone by. The one where there’s someone willing to re-open and put a lot of time, effort and money into? Well, it seems that that’s what’s currently going on in Starbeck, Harrogate.

Now, I can remember The Henry Peacock being open, but I don’t recall ever going in, and neither has anyone else since 2012 when Enterprise inns closed it down.

A couple of local ladies thought this was a shame and they identified a need for a good community pub that does decent food in Starbeck, the only current option being the nearby Prince of Wales, which is quite surprising as Starbeck is quite a popular place. Although many would see Starbeck as being just another part of Harrogate, it is a separate and sizeable settlement in it’s own right. Probably most famous to those from out of town as the location of The Yorkshire Tea factory.

Natalie Wilkins said, “It was the location of The Henry Peacock and this gap in the market that attracted myself and my business partner to reopen the building as a traditional gastro-pub, serving a menu comprising of fresh local produce. Somewhere we would be happy to take our own children.”

It was only when they approached Enterprise inns to explore the options for renting the premises that Natalie and her partner Charlotte McLaughlin discovered that it had active demolition approval application and planning permission for two retail units with six flats upstairs. Despite there being vacant retail space on the High Street and Enterprise inns continually advertising for people to run their pubs?

The discovery of this made the two ladies rather suspicious and they did quite a bit of digging. It became apparent an original application to demolish was refused by Harrogate Borough Council, but eventually appealed and upheld by an independent inspectorate in 2012, which is coincidentally about the time the pub closed it’s doors.

It does seem that there has been an active attempt to sell the property but Natalie believes this to have only been a ploy to satisfy Saved Local Plan Policy, whilst also discouraging potential buyers. The advertisement she has found contains contradictory information in the title and description, use of words such as ‘abandoned’, and an lack of knowledge of the attached land and managers flat.

Natalie explained, “It doesn’t seem to have had a lot of effort made by the estate agent; I’ve never read a property advert that states ‘flat comprises of we understand; living room, bathroom, 4 bedrooms, kitchen and office.’ Implying that the estate agent hasn’t actually entered the property. It certainly doesn’t appear the charming local pub it has the potential to be.”

Undeterred the two local entrepreneurs have explored many different ways of saving the pub, including an application to English Heritage for grade two listed status and including the premises in the Starbeck Spa Conservation area. To date neither has been successful.

Natalie told me, “It is unfortunate that Enterprise Inns feel that this property isn’t an asset worth saving in terms of profit, however, we strongly disagree! We see a Sunday carvery, kids fun days, the return of our darts team- a community! For myself and Charlotte this has now become more than just a business idea, its a crusade.”

Now I think it’s a shame that a pub which has been there since 1848, and is synonymous with the railway history of Starbeck isn’t going to be given a chance. Okay, Natalie and Charlotte might not have a track record in pubs, but they are competent and in Charlottes case trained, chefs and from speaking to them they have a real passion, so why not let them take it on and have a go. Unfortunately Enterprise Inns don’t quite see it this way and although they have intimated they will meet they have now stopped answering Natalie’s calls

Officially it looks like their next options are to appeal planning permission and also petition the demolition permission, proceedings due to commence this week.

In the meantime the ladies are gong to hold an impromptu event on Friday 19th February at The Henry Peacock between 12 and 4pm. when  Natalie and Charlotte will be handing out free food samples from their proposed ‘Yorkshire’ menu. There will also be bouncy castles, face painters, graffiti artists, book sellers and music so get yourself along to support the cause.

 

 

The Turks Head, Leeds – Preservation through elevation

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Turks Haed WhitelocksEvery time I walk into Whitelock’s I’m reminded of the Great siege of Malta (1565) when Jean de Valette decapitated Turkish prisoners and fired their heads back into the Ottoman camp. Sadly, as often the case, this was a conflict based very much on religion.

When I first heard that Whitelock’s were opening a new bar, The Turk’s Head, I was a little concerned. I mean, people from out of town coming in and spoiling what is without doubt a gem of a traditional boozer. If you follow my little blog site you will have read about my worries. Shortly after publishing my concerns, Whitelock’s sent me a communication;

… Whitelock’s will not change a dot, still championing British real ale brewers. We love it and always will! The Turk’s Head will also support the British independant brewer, simply offering a wider variety…of interesting brews, spirits, wines and cocktails too…surely a greater choice is a good thing? Whilst hoping we add to the great variety of amazing independant bars in this wonderful city. We really want to stick to the principles that make Whitelock’s great…

I was somewhat reassured when I saw this, they had after all, taken the time to reply, addressing all my concerns in five lines. But, I wasn’t going to put pen to paper again before I went down to find out for myself, thinking I’d give them a week or so to get settled in.

Turks head barOn reflection, this tale really does have shades of the ancient siege I regaled you with. Only this time it’s a case of the old and modern, the religion of tradition and real ale versus the modern, not necessarily real ale, if you adhere to the (CAMRA) bible. You’re probably thinking, he fell right into that trap didn’t he. Maybe not, although I consider my self a person of faith, I don’t follow any particular religion and I respect all faiths and those of no faith, but not necessarily religions. Although I think I am fairly progressive, at heart I’m a traditionalist as well and we are all entitled to make our own minds up.

My main concern was that Whitelock’s would be overshadowed and eroded away before finally falling off the edge of the cliff like some flimsy holiday home on the East coast. Having visited The Turk’s Head, I no longer have any concerns and I think this venture is one of real progress and an asset to the ‘String of beads’ beer scene.

If there are still some disbelievers out there, before any detailed description, there’s a few important points that need to be made very clear. The Turk’s Head is in the very top of the yard and has not taken over any space that was occupied by Whitelock’s. Neither can you walk from pub into bar or vice versa, they are both very specific entities and well separated. An old Loiner did tell me the space used to be the toilets a long time ago, when you had to go outside to them?

Turks Head interiorFive pm Saturday and The Turk’s Head is pretty well full. It’s not a massive place but you couldn’t get a seat at any of the stylish tables and chairs, with an odd banquette thrown in. Quite a mixed crowd really, all ages, all types, neither beer tickers nor hipsters. There’s a bit of an apothecary theme going on with lots of old chemists bottles and canisters, plus a neat collection of cut glass, decanters and stuff, above the bar. Overall the mood is quite calm, due mainly to the sage green cum blue, glazed tiles around the walls. I couldn’t be specific on the exact colour of the tiles because of the subdued lighting. Overall the decor is a sort of modern old fashioned style and I’ll give top marks to Lord Whitney – Conoisseurs of make believe, who designed it, they’ve cleverly pulled it off. In terms of the Whitelocks/Turks Head trade off then they seem to have created an almost symbiotic relationship. While we are on with the decor I’ll mention the toilet facilities which are of a very high standard, if not commodious. Looking at the overall layout and the size, I don’t think the idea is to pack the place out, it’s more an intimate, homely sort of a space.

Turks Head beer menuOkay, so what about the beer? Two hand pulled cask ales and twelve keg lines. The intention is for the beers to constantly change, whilst retaining roughly the same variety of styles so you shouldn’t be turning up to find everything is a strong IPA or a dark beer. There are some really cool breweries represented, as you can see from the menu which you have to examine as there’s nothing on the bar to tell you what’s on or how much it is. Notably there’s only one lager on which is Four Pure pilsner, the intention being to keep it this way. I asked if The Turk’s Head would end up being a Five Points flagship tap house, personally I don’t think that would be a bad thing, but they told me it’s not going to happen. Out of the fourteen draught ales only two were Five Points and it is going to stay that way. If you’re interested in cocktails and spirits then there’s plenty to go at, as well as some ‘different’ bar snacks. Prices vary from not cheap to quite expensive, but probably not out of the way when compared to similar establishments.

Turks Head DavidI asked manager David Herbert how things were turning out? He said it was going well and despite a few naysayers the venture had been really well received by local punters. I politely explained I had been sceptical yet reassured by the communication the company had sent me. A smiling David explained he was the author of said communication. We shook hands and he asked me what I thought now? Before I could say, I thought it had a really good feeling, Mrs C cut in and said she thought it was better than Whitelock’s! Different maybe, but different isn’t wrong and we’re back to that antagonistic religion thing; real ale v craft beer, modern v traditional. I think many people realise we need to scrap all that and just get on with drinking good beer in good suroundings. There’s no doubt that within the hidden enclave of Turks Head Yard, LS 1, there is something to suit every type of drinker whether you want the heritage of Whitelock’s or the cutting edge of The Turk’s Head. Having listened to David, it’s quite clear that Ed Mason and his enthusiastic team are committed to quality and delivering preservation through elevation.

 

Mr Foleys Beer Festival

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Mr Foley'sI always worry about Mr Foleys on the Headrow, Leeds. It’s such a good pub, but why is it always pretty quiet during the afternoon/early evening? I’m assured that it gets pretty busy later on, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, which is good. If I’m honest, I really think that more people should be calling in and trying what’s on offer because it’s got a lot going for it.

For a start, the grade two listed building is pretty impressive. Originally the old Pearl Assurance Company chambers, hence the name; Mr Foley was the founder of said insurance company. The premises are now a rambling semi-open multi level affair that provides a nice ambience, whatever you favour; stood at the bar, sat at a decent table, slumped in a comfortable settee or the best bit (for me), sat at one of the tables on the upper mezzanine floor cum balcony looking down on the bar.

Mr Foley's aerialOn the downside, the Westgate end of The Headrow in the Civic quarter is a fair trek from the up and coming Arena and Cultural quarters of leeds where most of the newer bars and pubs seem to be. You could of course combine a visit with a drop into the nearby Victoria hotel, Town hall tavern or somewhere like that, or even one of the two nearby ‘Spoons.

I think it’s fair to say that when it opened, a good few years ago now, Mr Foleys was well received, unfortunately it went down hill for a bit. Well that’s definitely not the case now. I’ve been calling in on regular basis now for well over six months and on every visit I always get a cracking glass of beer. There’s a comprehensive choice available, as good as anywhere, twelve real ales, ten craft lines, twenty four traditional ciders and loads of bottles. Yes, you did read that correctly, twenty four different ciders, that’s why it’s Leeds CAMRA  cider pub of the year (2015). There’s also tea and coffee but no food, apart from pork pies and the like. In terms of the all important toilet test, once you’ve walked what feels like half a mile down into the bowels of the premises, then it passes with full marks.

Mr Foley's JasonIn terms of real ale then York Brewery are well represented and they usually have Guzzler, Ghost and Terrier on because it’s their boozer, in fact the only one they have outside of York. Beyond the York standards then expect to be surprised, modern IPA’s, stouts and porters figure highly on the tap list, more often than not decent offerings from cutting edge brewers.

We called in at the weekend to see what they had on, primarily because they had a beer festival event going on. Thirty different cask ales , including three wooden casks, one from Ridgeside and two of their own brews. Prices varied with the mean being around £3.60 per pint. As well as the twelve pumps on the bar they had set up a stillage and bar on the middle deck of the pub, everything gravity fed and properly cooled.

Mr Foleys glassI tasted quite a few during the session, they did thirds. Stand out for me was Siren Rysing tide (7.4%), obviously a Rye beer but tasty, tasty, very, very. Others that hit the high notes were Ridgeside Stargazer (5%) from the wood. I love this beer and it just had that hint of something else that a wooden cask gives. I also tried York Terrier (4.2%) from the wood, again there was just that little extra to this easy drinking session ale. The big surprise for me was York Otherside (4.5%) which had been specially brewed and given a massive hit of extra Centennial and Simcoe at the dry hop stage. It really was one of those beers you could have drunk all day, they really need to brew it like this on a routine basis. In terms of quality, everything I had was spot on, which was also the opinion of some of the erudite beer enthusiasts I spoke to.

Mr Foley's exteriorThe festival started on Thursday, so when we arrived on Saturday about ten of the casks had gone already. Mostly the lower strength, easy drinking pale ales. I asked Jason Allison, the manager, how the event had gone. He told me it was looking like a big success. Friday night had been packed out and he did not expect to have many of the festival beers left by the end of Saturday. In fact two more barrels went off while we were there. Although there were plenty of people in, the Saturday afternoon session was really relaxed, sat at a table with a lovely crowd of beer minded people, I really enjoyed myself.

Keep your eye out for the dates of their next festival, it is well worth attending, and so is Mr Foleys, at any time, and in my opinion it’s currently one of the better real ale bars in Leeds for choice, quality and ambience. Go on give it a try and be surprised.