The Globe, Weymouth

The GlobeNo visit to Dorset is complete without a visit to the sea side gem that is Weymouth, a town of three thirds; a lovely sweeping beach and promenade with Georgian esplanades and everything the British seaside should have; an old town and characterful harbour with even more essential seaside elements; lastly a shopping centre with all the facilities a decent sized town has to offer.

I’ve stayed in Weymouth before, so on our day trip I was able to pick, what I thought were, the two best pubs in the town. I know there are others but after spending a week down there during the Olympics 2012, these were my favourites.

It’s strange, even after an absence of a few years you’re able to follow your nose to somewhere. I’d forgot what the name of the boozer was but after meandering through the back streets between The Custom House Quay and the Esplanade I soon located The Globe on East Street.

The pub is a traditional boozer with no concession to tourism at all. Although the pub looks very neat and tidy from the outside, it’s back street location would put most tourists off, certainly those with kids and dogs and executive cars wanting food who are more interested in being seen than in what they’re getting.

The Globe barThere’s one bar with a smaller room just off with a pool table, there’s also darts and other traditional games. Twelve o’clock and there’s a good few in having a nice lunch time pint, mainly older and principally locals who warmly received us. There’s six real ales to choose from; St Austell Cornish, St Austell Proper Job, St Austell Liquid sunshine, Doom Bar (can you go anywhere without seeing this OTB – is it the new Watney’s Red Barrel?), and Dartmoor Jail ale. The sixth pump was in the process of being cleaned through by the landlord so we didn’t get to see what else was on. That was another good feature, the landlord was in the bar and I’m 99% certain that the girl behind the bar was the same one who was there three years ago. I like this continuity, you know where you are. There was also a real cider on, as well as everything else the lager boys would expect. If I’m being over critical, I thought the choice of guest beer, a third St Austell brew, Cornish, made things just a bit top heavy in that brewers favour.

The beer? I tried a pint of Proper Job and a Jail ale. I enjoyed them, both were in good condition. You don’t see Proper Job much in Yorkshire and it is exactly what it says it is, which is surprising as I’ve never liked anything else they do. I think they have it sometimes in the Nicholson’s pubs in Leeds. The Jail ale was even better, what a lovely traditional bitter. I could drink it all day, especially when it was coming through the lines as good as this was. Prices seemed reasonable for the area, the guest ale was only £3 a pint.

The Globe isn’t old fashioned and it isn’t new, it is however spotless and very well run. The best way to sum it up is to say that it is one of those nothing special, almost ordinary, pubs that ends up being outstanding in a lot of ways.

The Ropemakers, Bridport, Dorset.

RopemakersThis would be the best pub in Bridport, if it wasn’t a Palmers Brewery tied house. It’s the only pub I’ve been in that has the full range of Palmer’s ales on the bar, all six of them (including the Colmers sumer ale), plus their new, own branded, cider (Shepton Mallet produced, I think). It’s also the best pint of Palmers I have ever had and having spent August down there for the last five years, I’ve had a few believe me. To be fair, it’s not that bad if it is kept right, and it is here, the Best Bitter was spot on. All this made me think that it must be the Palmers Starship Enterprise. Geraldine, the landlady put me right, it’s just a standard tenanted pub. I don’t think Palmers actually have a brewery tap flagship?

The Ropemakers is a real gem from the fantastic display of hanging baskets up front to the courtyard area at the back. The back being quite a long way from the front in this characterful, rambling, low ceilinged pub. In reality there’s just one room but with all the little nooks and crannies it doesn’t feel like that. As you would expect there’s lots of rope making memorabilia, one of the traditional local trades, loads of interesting ephemera and a good line in witty/pithy comments around the bar.Ropemkers OTB

Geraldine and John (Baker) have had the pub for eight years now and they are really proud of The Ropemakers as it was a bit run down when they took it on. It was definitely the busiest pub I visited in the Bridport area. They have regular music and lots of other events. Geraldine said they’d had fifty people turn up to yesterday’s ‘Cheese night’ – six cheeses and accompaniments, matched wines, taste and compare notes sort of thing. We called into the monthly Monday Jazz night to find it was standing room only. It was good to see a happy crowd of older people being catered for. There’s a few lessons here.

Ropemakers interiorGeraldine was clearly on the same wavelength as me when I told her it was nice to be in a pub with a good local feel.

‘One that’s not been cleared out and painted “that” green?’

‘What, Farrow and Ball?’ I said.

‘Heritage colours?’ Geraldine said, smiling.

It instantly summed up my feelings about a lot of pubs.

Prices were on par for the area. For example, £1.90 for a half of Dorset Gold, a premium golden ale. It’s not The Ropemakers fault, but the entire area is very expensive for what are pretty ordinary types of beers. I don’t want to start banging on about economics, but in an area that is dependant on seasonal tourism, I sensed I was getting ripped off in most places I drank.

Reasonably priced, simple pub food menu and local people in eating a market day lunch. Dogs are allowed and there’s free Wi-fi. The pub is spotless and smells of polish and wax.  Importantly, the toilets were first class. Everything was clean, worn and used, but definitely not shabby, more … comfortably lived in.

IMG_5291I sat pondering the various factors that make a pub like this a great boozer. Yeah, everything above, but to me it’s simple. Lovely landlady behind the bar. Landlord walking round, chatting and checking, making sure everything was as it should be. There’s far too many folk these days who take a pub on thinking that it’s all beer and skittles. Well it isn’t, it’s hard work. You can’t sit upstairs, you’ve got to be hands on. Every ship needs a captain and the sailors need to see them stood on the bridge. I think this is far more important than pursuing ACV’s. Lets start a, ‘We want proper Landlords & Landladies campaign.’

This is a proper old fashioned pub that has a bit of something for everyone. The only way you could improve it would be to get
some decent guest beers on the bar …

The Tiger Inn, Bridport.

TigerTiger, Tiger, burning bright,

A shining star, in a Palmers night.

Six cask ales loom into sight,

Doom Bar being the only …?

I couldn’t think of a non vulgar, rhyming ending, but if you want a choice of a decent, non Palmers, pint in Bridport then this is the place to head for. Tucked away on Barack Street, just off the main thoroughfare, The Tiger is a wonderful little pub. Besides the ale there is Sky Sports, two neat, semi covered courtyard areas, a Skittle alley, Darts, no food and a good local craic. I like the no food bit, bucking the local trend, refusing the allure of Brakes refrigerated lorry. The bogs are decent too.

Tiger hatBare board floors in the main bar are covered with a right old mish mash of old kitchen tables with unmatched, traditional style chairs and benches and a simple posy of flowers on each table. Hop garlands decorate the bar top and the exposed original beams. At the back of the pub there’s a second bar which seems to be used more at times of important sporting activity on TV.

Smokers are properly catered for with the two courtyards. The interior one is totally contained within the pub and almost fully covered with a large professional canopy and although I’m not sure about the ethics of trying to make the outside as warm as the inside; there are on demand heaters. The outer yard serves as the main entrance and has stout bespoke wooden seating under large sun shades.

Tigr insideOver two weeks I saw and tried: Oakham (Tranquility & JHB), Gyle 59 (three), Piddle (at least four), Liberation ale, Exeter Rifleman, Timothy Taylors Landlord, Sharps Atlantic (as well as the ubiquitous DB), Butcombe (several), Fullers (two), Thornbridge Jaipur, Yeovil ales. There’s a real commitment to local brewers across the South West, you can see that from the pump clips adorning every bit of exposed beam. Someone involved knows what’s happening elsewhere and they’re cherry picking some notable brews from further afield, as well as looking after the more conservative taste. Everything I had in The Tiger was on top form. It had to be because most barrels didn’t last long and if you tasted something good you had to enjoy it because it wouldn’t be on the next day. Prices were dearer than I expected for a rural market town where the locals complained about the lack of proper jobs and low pay. A pint of London pride or Sharps Atlantic was £3.20, rising through £3.40 for Butcombe Moxee and £4 for a Jaipur, which is on par with Leeds city centre

Tiger CameronI’ve got to mention Gyle 59, for me they’re cutting edge and locally based in Chard. I tried three of their ales. The IPA was a quality drink, a modern style IPA with a decent hop hit, but well balanced. The Toujours Farmhouse Saison was also good. I even liked the Ginger IPA and I don’t usually favour these ‘novelty’ beers. I was really impressed with all three. This brewery is one to watch and needs sampling if you see it on the bar.

Cider appeared to be the favourite tipple of most locals, I get that sort of tradition down here. I can understand it even more when all you can get in most places is Palmers. The Tiger has three draught ciders and two boxes of more local stuff. Thatchers appeared to get the locals vote.
Market Wednesday is a good day to visit, although the market isn’t produce based anymore, there’s a real market town feel, a good few in the bar during the afternoon and always someone willing to chat, even if it’s just the friendly staff, like Cameron; I told this budding young actor I’d give him a mention.

Tiger skittlesI was surprised it had only won the W.Dorset CAMRA town pub of the year on a few occasions, until I worked out that it was the W.Dorset town pub of the year and not just Bridport town. I know W.Dorset is a fair sized area but if there’s a better pub than this one then I want to go. Unfortunately I couldn’t discover from the W.Dorset CAMRA web site what the current town pub of the year is? The superb sounding current overall pub of the year is a village inn in the back of beyond somewhere, requiring a car journey, so we gave it a miss.

This is the sort of pub that would be appreciated by lots of people from all different walks of life, drinkers and pubby people, people who like a nice variety of decent beer kept in good form, all topped up with friendly company.

Palmers Brewery, it’s not really a Broadchurch in West Bay.

Palmers vanFor the past six years I’ve spent a few August weeks in Dorset, specifically West Bay, the harbour village for the market town of Bridport. If you’ve never been I would thoroughly recommend it, it’s a very beautiful part of our sceptred isle, and the setting for much of the popular Broadchurch TV series. If you like pubs then there’s dozens of them, many thatched traditional country boozers nestling in pretty villages. There must be nearly twenty of them in the immediate Bridport area alone. Unfortunately, as a visitor, it gets a bit depressing when virtually every pub you go in is selling the same beer, not the same brew, but always the same brewer. In this case it’s Palmers. They do five core ales; Copper (3.7%), Best Bitter, Dorset Gold (4.5%), 200 (5.0%) and Tally Ho. Additionally you will see their latest (first brewed in 2014) Colmers (4.0%) summer ale in a lot of their pubs, they reckon it’s brewed with Citra hops, if it is they didn’t chuck many in. My favourite is Tally Ho a strong (5.5%) dark ale that is quite complex and tastes different to the others. The rest are almost variations on a theme and apart from strength and colour, have the same key flavours running through them. The best of the rest is the Best Bitter (4.2%), if it is well kept and on form. Try the Ropemakers in Bridport for the best pint I found in the area. The best description I can come up with is that they are an old fashioned brewer with old fashioned beers. Mind you, so are Timmy Taylors, need I say more.

West BayWe stay in the pretty village of West Bay, essentially the harbour for the nearby market town of Bridport. There’s a pleasant fifteen minute walk through fields, alongside the meandering river Brit into the town. As you reach the edge of Bridport you pass the magnificent stone building that has been Palmers stronghold since 1794. It looks like a very early tower style brewery which still has an operational water wheel. I don’t know what it powers but they have it turning several days a week. I should go on one of the tours to find out. At ten quid a time with a souvenir glass tankard and a taste of ale, I don’t think that’s bad value really to have a look round what’s billed as the only thatched brewery in the UK.

Palmers strongholdThere’s four pubs in West bay, six if you count the caravan park bar (open to public) and the Ellipse. My favourite is the The West Bay Hotel. It’s an old pub with two separate beer gardens and accommodation. The outstanding feature is the landlord, a young local bloke who is always around, something that’s getting a bit of a rarity. Unfortunately food trade is their main focus and there’s only a couple of tables permanently set aside for drinkers. The food is fish biased and always looks good, it must be because they get busy, often with local people rather than tourists. The beer is Palmers, but over several years I’ve always found it to be on good form. Second favourite is The George Hotel which is also a Palmers house. Again they do accommodation and are very focussed on food, having a separate restaurant. They also have a tap room/sports bar and the biggest umbrellas you will ever see over their perfectly situated harbour side beer garden. Interestingly there is the oldest Boxer dog you have ever seen wandering round the boozer and a resident old man permanently seated at the same table everyday in the lounge bar. The real ale quality can be hit and miss here.

Plmers doorI would give the The Bridport Arms a miss, it’s primarily food and accommodation and if I’m honest a bit soulless, think Harvester Inn. The beer is a bit hit and miss as well, it’s clearly not their main focus and again it’s, you’ve guessed … Palmers.

The Quarterdeck is the bar to Durbeyfield House, a small hotel. The beer is Doom Bar or St Austell, the local cider out of the box is lethal. It gets quite busy at tea time and is a rendezvous for local trades men and other artisans after work. It has a really good atmosphere and until late afternoon the garden courtyard outside is a very good place to be, unfortunately the sun disappears behind the building quite early (when this occurs go straight to The George Hotel beer garden). My advice on drink choice would be to follow the local lead and drink the branded cider and on no account dabble with the local cider or the beer. When we were there in August it was on the market for £650k which after negotiation would represent pretty good value for the area, either as a pub or for residential. W.Dorset CAMRA need to get cracking with an ACV here.

Palmers pintI’m not going to cover the caravan holiday park bar, it is what it is. It isn’t a pub, but is handy if you want to watch Sky Sports. I think they have Doom Bar on hand pull.

The only other place is the Ellipse bar and bistro. It has a stunning vista from it’s beachside location and when it’s clear you can see Lyme Regis. It did have St Austell on the bar at one bit but they no longer have any real ale on, which is a shame, because although it’s not a pub, it’s quite a nice place to sit.

If anyone is wondering why I haven’t commented on the food in any of these places, it’s because in six years I’ve never eaten in any of them. When we dine out down there, we always go to Arthur Watson’s stunning Riverside restaurant. There’s no need to go anywhere else, which is what you will say when you have been. The Seasider chip shop (not the shacks) is pretty good as well.

Can the Can?

As I walked round Leeds International Beer Festival it was apparent, but not surprising, that there were more keg beers than cask ales. What caught my attention more, was the number of UK brewers present who were selling canned beers. Several had some of their beers available solely in cans. This and my recent trip to Northern Monk’s launch of their canned range led me to investigate this canned phenomenon further.

I assumed that canned beer in the UK appeared sometime in the 1960’s, I can remember Long Life being popular in the late sixties, early seventies. I was wrong on this one because the first canned beer in the UK was produced by Welsh brewers Fellinfoel in 1931, in a weirdly shaped can with a conical top and a crown cap, thanks BBC website.

If you’re of a certain age you will have drank gallons of canned beer with that metallic taste of the tin itself. I’m not certain what age you’d need to be because I’m not sure when the metallic taste disappeared. In some areas it hasn’t disappeared and I recently had a bottled ale from a well known German supermarket discounter that was horribly metallic. In fact, I had a pint of Camden Pale Ale yesterday from the keg, in my new local and that had a metallic whiff and a stannic smack on the first taste, so it’s not just a canned thing is it? Tasted pretty good after that though.

So, canned ale is nothing new and we’ve had loads of canned beers in the UK for years, lagers, ciders, various ales and stouts in row upon row and box upon box on our supermarket shelves. Something must be happening though because both the The Guardian  and The Telegraph have recently published a list of their top canned beers to try. If the chattering classes are reading about this then there must be something occurring? A few years ago I would have said there’s no such thing as a top ten of canned beer, they’re all just crap beers in convenient packages. Not so any more because craft brewers are now canning their brews. Why? Brian Dickson at Northern Monk told me it keeps the beer fresh and there’s no chance of oxidisation through a dodgy bottle top. The can keeps the light out too, again keeping the beer as fresh as when it went into the can. There’s also the recyclability of the packaging which cools down quicker than a bottle and is more efficient stacked.

Personally, I prefer a can to a bottle at home. You can stack them up easier in the fridge, put them on their sides, upside down, stuff them on top of the bacon and even if they fall out they won’t instantly smash. I think the beer is better too. I’m no beer snob, I drink Bud while watching sport on TV, I like it, it’s cold refreshing and fizzy and alcoholic. It’s much better out of the can than a bottle.

Everyone I spoke to at Leeds International Beer Festival seemed to think that the sales of canned craft style beers will go through the roof next year. Northern Monk released their range recently. Magic Rock said that their range canned range will be available pretty soon. Roosters Tom told me they invested in their own canning line a while ago and out of five beers on their bar, three were solely available in cans, including my favourite, Baby Faced Assasin. Others with cans on the bar were: Fullers, Fourpure and Fivepoints. If the likes of these breweries have gone down the canned route then it’s clear that it’s neither a novelty or a one off. Other notables are Brewdog, Camden. And I’ve got to mention Beavertown, who have cornered the market in the visual stakes and taken full advantage of the 360 degree graphic impact a can provides with their comic book space age designs. Designs which wouldn’t look half as good on bottle labels. I guess, in some way we are following the US as brewers like Flying Dog, Founders and the like have been available for a good while in cans. There’s similarities both in terms of beer styles and the overall package with a lot of the beers coming on stream in cans.

There’s even Indie Beer Can, a canned beer competition organised by the Can Makers and SIBA, although it’s aims are obviously self promotion. Adams won the first one with Ghost followed by Thwaites 13 Guns. I’ve not seen the Adnams one but I’ve tried 13 Guns and it’s only alright, nothing special from the husk of the Lancashire macro brewer who pretend to have a craft micro brewery in Marstons back yard.

Quality wise, I don’t perceive any difference and believe a good canned beer is preferable to the same beer in a bottle. Although I prefer a draught beer in a proper glass, you don’t usually get draught beer at home, on a picnic, at a barbecue, when camping or at other casual outdoor events. I think it’s the way forward for these modern styles of beer and over the next six months I’m predicting a massive rise in the number of quality beers becoming available in these convenient, efficient, little packages.

New Zealand Craft Beer Collective

NZ LogoI first encountered draught beer from New Zealand during London Beer Week back in February when there was a New Zealand brewers tap take over in Clerkenwell Craft Beer Co. I tried a couple of brews from Yeastie Boys. I can’t remember what they were. I liked the beer, but my lasting memory was, everything was really strong and expensive.

When I saw New Zealand Beer Collective had a bar at Leeds International Beer Festival I thought it might be worth having another look? I’ll confess, I only went in the British beer hall and the New Zealand Beer Collective stand. I could have gone in the American beer hall, I had a quick peek, the cider and perry room or the European hall. If I was going to do justice to everything I reckon you need at least two visits to Leeds International Beer Festival and even then, maintain some sort of focus on regions and styles.

NZ ToddI was quite interested to find out what the New Zealand Beer Collective actually was? Todd Nicolson, Head of Business Development, said they came to the UK in February 2015, promoting five, relatively small, NZ breweries; Tuatara, Yeastie Boys, Three Boys, 8 Wired and Renaissance. Leeds International Beer Festival is their first foray up here and he was really pleased with how it had gone. Their bar was situated under the front portico of Cuthbert Broderick’s masterpiece and he told me the queue on Saturday had stretched back for five of the Town Hall’s impressive Corinthian pillars.

NZ LadyIt took Todd a fair bit of linguistic coaching before I could pronounce Tuatara correctly, a combination of the beer consumed and my Northern accent. Apparently a Tuatara is some prehistoric lizard that lives in NZ. If he’d persevered for a week, I doubt whether he could have got me to say Aotearoa correctly? It’s the Maori word for NZ. Anyway, regardless of my pronunciation, the Aotearoa Pale Ale (5.8 %) was a very nice drink. The name is fitting because it’s bang full of tasty NZ hops; Pacific Jade, Nelson Sauvin, Cascade, Motueka.
I asked Todd what the history of brewing in NZ was and why they are only just coming to the party? He said they had traditionally only been able to buy crap beer in NZ so they became a nation of home brewers, which is how a few of the breweries they represent had actually started.

All the New Zealand Beer Collective brands are imported by Instil Drinks and if you look at the web sites for the individual breweries they all refer to themselves as ‘craft brewers’ which might not suit some people. All I will say is the keg beer I had was well worth the eight thousand mile journey it had made and hopefully we will start to see more of their draught ales on our bars.

Mondo

Mondo logoThere were quite a few, to me, newer breweries at Leeds International Beer Festival. One which caught my eye, not least for the distinctive blue logo was Mondo Brewing Co. They hail from Battersea, London, Todd Matteson, brewer and founder told me. Originally from New York he’s lived in London for four years now. Together with Thomas Palmer they only started the brewery about five months ago. They’re growing rapidly and a brewery tap with fifteen lines was launched about four weeks ago, they open Thursday to Sunday at the brewery. They brew four core beers James’ Brown Ale, Kemosabe IPA, London Alt and Rider Pale Ale, plus various seasonal beers. I tried the Altbier and it was good. I also tried the Mondo teamPoppa Cap American Pilsner which was brillig. A proper Lager with some taste. For what it’s worth, I gave Todd some advice, ‘Put this in cans and it will fly off the shelves, mate.’ He laughed and told me they needed to maximise their bottling line first. Seriously, the lager was excellent, think sunny day or sat watching sport on TV gear, easy going but proper tasty. I’m predicting a massive rise in the number of canned, quality cutting edge, beers coming on the market over the next six months and this ought to be one of them.

I’m not going to go into details about their set up. You can find out quite a lot from their web site Mondo Brewing Co. What I will comment on is the name; Mondo. Literally, the world, which is quite fitting as the two founders have racked up a lot of world travelling between them. This is reflected in the names and varied styles of their beers; James’ Brown, Kemosabe, Cochise, Watch Maibock, Dubbel Trubbel. I haven’t got a Scooby what Poppa Cap means but it’s not British is it? Go on, someone tell me, I should have asked when I was talking to them?
IMG_5640I really enjoyed talking to these guys and drinking their beer. To their credit, it always amazes me how professional, committed and enthusiastic all these emerging young brewers are. Jo, the assistant brewer, said they were committed to quality and consistency in everything they do. He’s pretty new to brewing and is on a steep learning curve both with ‘on the job’ training from the other guys and with the formal qualifications he is studying for. He’s clearly on line with the company message and ethos. I’d back these boys to do well and I think they are one to watch, especially on the burgeoning Metropolitan beer scene,

Mondo standBoth Todd and Joe had really enjoyed being up in Leeds and thought it had been worthwhile attending the festival and raising their profile. If you’re from the Leeds area and interested in Mondo beers you can buy their bottles in Little Leeds Beer House shop and Raynville Stores.