Candlebar, Leeds

Candlebar extIs it a bar or is it a restaurant? That’s the question I had to ask the barmaid in Candlebar one of the latest additions to the Leeds city centre scene. I’m not convinced she was entirely sure actually and I definitely wasn’t when I first stepped into Ossett breweries latest venture. After a while it started to become clearer and although it’s not a pub it’s a decent place with some interesting features. In reality Candlebar is a modern bar that serves light meals, craft beer and wine. It’s never going to get into the CAMRA good beer guide because there’s no real ale. What they do have is a selection of fourteen modern craft style keg lines, twenty enomatically preserved wines and a half decent selection of cans and bottles. For the fridge selection think Founder’s, Brewdog, Flying Dog, Left Hand, Camden and Beavertown. There’s not much in the way of continental European beers. If you want real ale and traditional boozer then you’re definitely in the wrong place and you need to be in Ossett breweries nearby premises The Hop, just the other side of the canal basin. Granary Wharf and the dark arches are one of my favourite parts of  Leeds and this bar is a genuine addition to this cool part of ‘old’ Leeds, just so long as our friends from Wakey aren’t planning a sly takeover down there?

Candle houseInside there has been no expense spared on the quality fit out. Bleached wooden tables and lots of grey things. If there is a theme then I missed it (not unusual). There were a few antlers and a pelt from some sort of deer but I couldn’t fathom any connection. The candle bit is because it’s in Candle house – the cool round building you can see just south of City station. What I will say is that it is very nice and comfortable. I’m a big believer that the key to a really top pub are the toilets. Candlebar’s blogs definitely have the wow factor, design and cleanliness, please keep them like this.

I’m not going to go into the wines but there was a good choice available, by the glass using their eno what-do-you-ma-call-it thingy, you could also get a 50ml tasting measure to help the faint hearted make their minds up and I was offered tasting samples of beer. The keg beers were just slightly overpriced, to give you some idea of the price per pint; Founders all day IPA (4.7%) £3.75, Flying Dog Black honey (7%) £5.60, Ilkley/Yeastie Green tea (6.2%) £5.70, Jaipur £5.00 (it’s £4.20 in a well known victuallers on Boar lane but there’s somewhere else in town currently charging £6.00 for it!!!). Also OTB were Meantime, Brooklyn, Grimbergen and others.

CandlebarThe food is simple, pizzas done in a massive wood fired oven, salads and sharing platters. Almost a fusion between FOH and some of the other bars in town that are doing pizzas. Nothing that would break the bank though, the dearest sharing platter was only fifteen and a half quid.

The only fault I picked up was a (misguided?) insistence on charging 50p surcharge for a contactless card payment. Mr wallet sorted that one out, but I just didn’t get it, sort of defeats the point? If you’re reading Mr/Mrs Ossett brewery it’s one that might be worth clarifying this?

The verdict. Not a boozer. not a bar, not a restaurant but a really good place that sits somewhere in between. Somewhere a little bit upmarket than the norm which is reflected in the pricing, that has a good range of craft style beer and wine. It’s not a rip off though. My take on this is, if you were trying to impress someone on a first date you wouldn’t take them to North bar would you? Okay, you might, but I wouldn’t, I’d take them to Candlebar (prior to going for a meal at a nice restaurant). Guaranteed they would be really impressed.

Collingham Real Ale Festival

Collingham barOn Saturday 6th June I visited Collingham real ale festival, one of the many beer festivals hosted in the North East Leeds area (see post of July 5th).

Entry was five quid for the usual commemorative glass, quality programme and a free half (I wonder who and when are going to be the first beer fest round here to break the five quid barrier?). Ten pounds bought a ticket with six tokens on, each representing one half which was ticked off at point of sale. I made that a reasonable £3.30 a pint. Cider was a bit dearer at 1/3 pint per token and wine or Pimms was two tokens. The downside, it was ten quid or nothing, no refunds. I’m not coming to get tanked up, but I might want an odd one or two more than three and a half pints (seven ales), but definitely not seven pints or twenty quids worth. Neither do I want to go home with unspent tokens, I reckon this could put a few people off and I would have liked a bit more financial flexibility.

Collbeerfesy hallOutside the stone built village hall everything looked really cool. Inside the hall was a bit of a disappointment though. The light and airy wooden panelled area housing the bar was fine and had the look and feel of a beer festival but the main hall was a bit of a dour, dingy, damp smelling sort of a place. Almost a bit Darby and Joan, although it started to gain bit of atmosphere as it filled up.
The beers? There were lots of micro and smaller breweries represented, a lot from within a twenty-five miles radius. I know it’s a village festival and it is definitely in Yorkshire but I have to say, for me, the list of Yorkshire ales was boring, boring, boring. I expected the likes of Collingham to be represented, and they make decent beers, so long as you steer clear of Journeyman which tastes far too much like Sam Smith’s OBB for my liking.

I know the so called ‘new wave’ beers aren’t to everyone’s taste and I respect that, but there wasn’t even a tiny ripple on the bar. If Collingham beer fest were a rock festival it would have been a local talent show rather than a big concert with showstopping headline acts, classical music rather than punk rock. The only big name was Black Sheep, unfortunately the ubiquitous Masham brewer can be found everywhere and anywhere. I don’t really want to see mainstream middle of the road brewers on the bar at a beer fest and taking the concert analogy to Black Sheep, it’s a bit like going to see the Grumbleweeds; they’re still going and they were okay once, when there wasn’t much competition around. I know it’s billed as Collingham ‘real ale’ festival but couldn’t we have been offered a bit of craft, maybe a bit of Magic Rock or a Northern Monk?

LeeMy first half was Exit 33 Riverside Pale (4.2%). The programme notes said it was ‘biscuity with a gentle bitter taste for a clean
refreshing finish’. It tasted a bit sharp and sour and I didn’t like it. I tried a Harrogate brewing Co Hornbeam, which was only okay and not exactly bursting with the Citra hops the programme promised.
I sort of started worrying whether it was my palate or the beers that were at fault? I’d not come across Rooster’s Birdman (4.3%) before, but I desperately needed a touchstone. I don’t think you can have a beer festival around these parts without Lee, he turns up everywhere and he really does graft, before and after, not just on the bar. Anyway he pulled me a nice half of Birdman. Thankfully it tasted the same as the Knaresboro’ brewers ales always do. I just wished they’d chosen something like Baby faced Assassin instead.

Yorkshire Sparkle by Treboom brewery is a very pale golden ale of the best quality but it still left me searching and I sat pondering the programme looking for something to provide the higher IBU levels I desired.

Flagcrackers on wall

Up to this point we’d wandered around a bit and watched the excellent Flagcrackers of Craven, a sort of progressive Morris team. Blacked out faces, coloured ribbons, excellent infectious music and riotous dance sequences, while still retaining the traditional Morris dancing ethos. Unfortunately it became a little cool outside so we trooped inside to watch them. Ironically, I sat drinking my fifth selection, Sole Destroyer (4.5%), whilst the clog footed Flagcrackers knocked pony out of the polished wooden floor. This seasonal ale from Old Mill brewery was a very nice, well rounded, light coloured pale ale, nice malt base with just a hint of both marzipan and banana in there, which would go really well with food.

Blonde bombshellExit 33 redeemed their selves with New England (4.2%). Okay this brown bitter wasn’t the intense hop hit I was looking for but it was superb. Malty, a subtle hint at chocolate, nicely bitter with a hoppy back taste, but not done to death. In essence, a cracking traditional Yorkshire bitter, I just couldn’t help wishing that the beer picker had chosen some of Exit 33’s more progressive stuff. My last choice was pretty decent as well, Wharfebank brewery Ro Sham Bo (4.2%), I could drink this excellent session IPA all day.

In the background there was a big flat cap thing going on with all the volunteer supporters sporting natty caps or bespoke aprons which gave a bit of a corporate feel to the event. There was plenty food available, including a rather happy looking roasted hog. One really good feature was the free juice and water for non drinkers and kids and no expectation for the chauffeur to pay an entry fee, spot on that.

A programme of eight bands kicked off at four o’clock, going Hogthrough until the close at eleven. As we watched the first act ‘Lucy and Jo’, the hall was starting to fill up.  You could tell it was going to build into a proper bash and if all the bands were as good as these two young ladies, who had some genuine potential, then the punters were in for a good night.

It’s good to see that fifteen grand has been raised for the Praeder-Willi syndrome Association from the previous four festivals. This is a good event, a good festival, an excellent charity and a cracking village do. After a shaky start I had some nice beers but didn’t find what I came for and I left wishing they could have been a bit more progressive with their choice of beer. Verdict, I would have a real careful look at the beer list before I go again.

The Olde Ship inn, Seahouses is in my all time top ten boozers

Ship innIn my last Northumbrian pub review regarding The Greys inn, Embleton. I said, ‘It doesn’t get much better than this for me.’ I might just have told porkies, little ones, because in this case it does. The Olde Ship inn, Seahouses is defo in my all time top ten boozers. The main saloon bar is unbelievable. It’s something like a cross between a Northumbrian maritime museum and the best of everything that a pub can offer. The pub is part of a larger enterprise which consists of a wonderful traditional family run four star hotel and accommodation. I wholeheartedly recommend a stay in the hotel. Although that’s not what this review is about, the nautical memorabilia theme runs through the entire comfortable hotel and the food has a traditional, local flavour and anyone who says they don’t like this place just doesn’t know what they are on about.

Ship inn beer garden IIThere’s no kids or dogs allowed in the bars. I know different folk have different views, I have a dog and I have children, but I agree here. The saloon bar is a place of adult serenity, an almost club like atmosphere that would be instantly spoiled by children, however well behaved they are. Similarly, dogs sprawled out would get in the way in the busy saloon bar. There is a pleasant area along the corridor from the main bar where children are allowed and families can eat, but it’s not a bar. Dogs are allowed in the beer garden with it’s views out over the harbour to the Farne islands and dog bowls are provided. As well as the main saloon bar there is a smaller cabin bar opposite with the same stipulations.

One of my favourite features is the series of black and white photos in the bar and out into the corridor. They’re all portraits of local people, mainly fishermen. Looking at them I would say late sixties, early seventies. Well captured shots that really capture the spirit of the subject. Although I can identify some shortcomings, backgrounds need burning in, the photographer has done a brilliant job and the characters speak to you. I can gaze at them for hours.

Ship inn standardsThere’s no service issues at  The Olde Ship inn, there’s always at least two, often three, experienced, older bar staff on behind the bar. You never have to wait long, they’re very friendly, they’re local, they’ve worked their for years and your drink is always spot on. So why can’t everywhere else up here have professional staff like these?

So what’s the beer like? Six standard real ales that you can get anywhere and a lot of people like them. Me? I’m sticking with the ever changing guest ales. Four of them on the bar. They seem to stay with local, or at least regional breweries and I worried that we might be restricted to either very pale or brown traditional beers. I was proved wrong here Tempest Armadillo was a breath of very modern fresh air. It was on absolute top form and was delicious, hoppy, citrus and tropical fruit and toffee malts and on our first visit I didn’t try anything else, there was no need. This beer hit every note for me and at 3.6% it had the taste power that even much stronger brews lack. We went back again and luckily the Armadillo was still on, not just as good this time but still decent. I know I ought to have tried something else but I was just overwhelmed with Armadillo. I’m sure the other beers would have been just as good and apart from the Armadillo they had all changed since our previous visit two days before.

Ship guest alesMy suggestion is to wrap up in proper gear and visit this area out of season. Less tourists, more locals, less hassle, more atmosphere. Although it’s a beautiful place in summer, the light is fantastic at anytime and the magic is that it constantly changes. One minute sunny, the next dull, but nearly always a wonderful luminance. On a bright winters day you can walk on the beach and hardly see another soul. You then wander back to The Olde Ship inn and sit in the bar with the locals and a roaring fire. Believe me, you will keep going back for ever. Just please, please, don’t buy a holiday cottage there because you will spoil the magic you came for.

Wood you believe it? Elland brewery launch new beer

Beerlogo200A new specially brewed golden beer by recent Supreme Champion Beer of Britain winners Elland brewery is being launched at Clifford Champion Beer Festival on Saturday 27th June. The beer is named after an ITV Calendar show hosted by presenter Duncan Wood.  ‘Wood you believe it’ was a current affairs programme that posed the eponymous question to viewers about many varied topics. ‘The issues ranged from the man who couldn’t stop hiccuping to fighting for disabled parking rights,’ explained Duncan.

The media launch was held at The Muse Wetherby where Mike Hiscock, Elland brewery manager said, ‘It’s a Golden premium ale brewed using 5 English malts. Well hopped with American Chinook and Cascade to give a long clean bitter finish and a citrus, tropical fruit flavour and aroma.’

Elland brewery and The Muse are annual sponsors of Clifford Champion Beer Festival and both are key players in Britain’s ‘Beer Revolution’ currently sweeping through the country. This revolution is the theme of this year’s charity focused festival, featuring 30 beers (cutting edge craft beers, national champion real ales, five festival special ales and craft bottled beers) plus champion ciders and a variety of lagers. Brand new this year is a Prosecco Wine Bar and delicious festival food by the renowned purveyors of food and craft beer Stew and Oyster, soon to open in nearby Boston Spa. Five talented live bands will play from noon to the 11pm closure at this highly regarded festival.

This is the confirmed beer list but as always is subject to availability and may change slightly.

Brewer Name
Bank Top Dark Mild
Brown Cow Captain Oates
Collingham Journeyman
Mighty Oak Captain Bob
Red Willow Directionless
Salopian Darwin’s Origin
Timothy Taylor’s Boltmaker
Cairngorm Black Gold
Elland 1872 Porter
Brass Castle Sunshine
Brown Cow Save the Pub 2015 Festival Special
Elland Festival Special – Wood you Believe it
Elland Beyond the Pale
Grey Hawk Festival Special – Beadnall’s Definitive
Grey Hawk Blonde Obsession
Great Heck Chopper
Stew & Oyster Haas Ale
Hawkshead Cumbrian Five Hop
Kirkstall Pale Ale
Kirkstall 3 Swords
Magic Rock Ringmaster NZ
Mallinsons Festival Special – Clifford’s Bone
Mallinsons Seasonal
Oakham Citra
Roosters Birdman
Roosters Blind Jack
Rudgate Brew No18 Elderflower Ale
Salopian Hop Twister
Siren Soundwave
Tiny Rebel FUBAR

The (awesome) Greys inn, Embleton, Northumbria.

GreysOver the years I’ve spent some happy evenings in The Greys inn, Embleton. but it’s got to be over ten years ago since I last went in. Thankfully it’s not changed much. The pool table’s gone, replaced by a small restaurant in the back room. Apart from that, the only changes are superficial. Like there’s no pale green or beige cum off white shades of Farrow and Ball. It’s around three in the afternoon and there’s a couple of older local blokes reading the complimentary newspapers and a few families with kids and dogs eating. Wey hey! It’s still a proper pub and you can tell the locals use it because there’s the fixture list for Embleton cricket club and a notice about a charity golf day on the wall. That’s another thing that impresses up here, golf is a working man’s game with little of the golf club snobbery that prevails at more southerly courses. Golfers please note, the nearby Dunstanburgh castle golf club is a real traditional links treat. There is some good accommodation in Embleton and it makes a good base for a golf weekend.

Greys alesOn the bar they had Alnwick Amber ale (3.0%), Tyne Bank Pacifica (4 %), Mordue Workie ticket (4.5%) and Hadrian border Secret Kingdom (4.3%). Coming up were Tempest Armadillo, Alnwick IPA and Alnwick Canny brew. Between us, we went for Pacifica and Workie ticket. The Pacifica name was a definite clue as there was a lot of American west coast hops going on in my glass. The young lass behind the bar explained it nicely, to a customer that it was bitter, hoppy and citrussy. The beer was well kept, well pulled and someone knew what they were doing in the cellar. The staff were a touch different to most places, they’d been busy judging by the food debris they were tidying up, but they weren’t flustered and they chatted to us as they worked, recalling past licensees, they’d obviously been born and bred in the village. It was this genuine local connection and ethos that makes the Greys stand out above the rest. It’s a proper Northumbrian local, okay it caters for the visitor, but it retains it’s originality. This is a plea to future owners, developers, people wanting to make a fast buck – please don’t mess with pubs like this. The current owners reside mainly in London, but retain their very strong local connection, hence improvements have been superficial and sympathetic. This, coupled with the social housing in the village, that’s corporation houses to you and me, means that both village and pub remain real (as opposed to artificial and plastic like other villages mentioned in previous Northumbria posts).

Greys baMy tip, get the bus to Craster, have a wander round, pick up some traditional kippers at Robson’s smokehouse  maybe a pint in the Jolly Fisherman beer garden, walk up the coast to Dunstanburgh castle, turn inland up Sea Lane, Embleton. You can get reasonably priced soup, sandwiches and drinks (no real ale) at the very nice and friendly Dunstanburgh castle golf club. Then finish off in The Greys inn and reflect on the rugged unspoiled landscape and romantic castle over a decent pint or two. It doesn’t get much better than this for me.

The Jolly Fisherman, Craster, Northumbria.

Northumbrian crossCraster is a delightful place; small harbour, a couple of fishing boats, inshore life boat station, a traditional smokehouse filling the village with a wonderful aroma, nice cafe, an art gallery and The Jolly Fisherman. Unfortunately on careful examination the plaques on the walls of the pretty cottages and the designer decor inside tells you they are mostly holiday lets owned by absentee landlords. Sadly the village boozer has shared the same fate. The Jolly Fisherman used to be a big favourite of mine, back when this area was a real ale desert and the allure was traditional pubs and local clientele. The pub used to be a real characterful, traditional place, almost comfortably neglected, until it underwent a total refurbishment about three years ago. It looks very nice, inside and out, and most people will be impressed with the bare floors, open fires, exposed beams, comfortable seating and beigey walls. Personally, I think it’s lost what it had and I could take you to a dozen similar looking pubs in any locality in the UK.

The outstanding feature is the upstairs room and verandah, with panoramic views out to sea, along with the beer garden which enjoys the same stunning vista. In terms of beer, their web site says there’s three standard real ales, plus a monthly changing guest ale. When we visited there was Black Sheep Best bitter, Mordue Workie Ticket and  Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. The fourth pump didn’t have anything on but looking today, their web site says they have Wharfebank Celtic red on the bar. We settled for the more local one of the three and enjoyed a good pint of Workie ticket, I love the name. The deep copper coloured, almost yeasty ale tasted of subtle malts which disappear to leave a soft, almost sweet aftertaste.

999The pub is Casque Mark approved, which in this case and many others, seems to say, ‘we’re not a beer pub really, but we’ve got some real ale on and here’s the certificate to prove it.’ Dogs and kids are welcome inside and out and food appears more important than wet trade. At 12.30pm the staff had that flustered, caught in the headlights appearance, which was becoming the norm around here. I was on the verge of walking out when I eventually got served. I thought the food looked expensive at £7.95 for a crab sandwich. So did the two Canadian gents sat at the side of us who paid £17.10 for a crab and a ham sandwich with two bottles of sparkling water. Their faces said it all when the sarnies arrived, basically two slices of bread, arranged on a board around a few tracklements. I bet the fisherman gets nowhere near £7.95 for an entire crab.

Unfortunately I didn’t have a camera when I visited so here’s a couple of cryptic stock photos from my back catalogue. They were taken in the area and spell out a message.

Verdict, The Jolly Fisherman suits the drive, park, short walk, see, eat, drive back, sort of person to whom a drink is merely ancillary to their day out.

The Joiners arms, High Newton by the sea, Northumbria.

PathThe Joiner’s arms, High Newton by the sea. Another Annie Sloan walled pub, bare boards, exposed beams and such. Looks good, but the uniformity of the flagged floor tells you it’s not original. It’s not bad though and the pub is part of the Newcastle based, ten pub/bar and restaurant, Apartment group. They bill themselves as the only five star luxury inn in Northumberland, predominantly food trade but they have four hand pumps on the bar and the trophy of pump clips hanging from the ceiling suggests a strong local theme. First time we called it was Anarchy brew co.  I had a few pints from this relatively new brewery (2012) while i was in Northumbria and I was impressed with their beers. St Mary’s ale, is a very pale straw coloured beer, crisp with very, very subtle honey and lemon notes, and a decent head. Sat in the pleasant beer garden in the sun, it went down well. Too well because I forgot to take any pics, so you’ll have to be content with a couple I took on the walk back. One’s a field of Barley mind, so it’s beer related.

We also tried an Acton brew co. The Office, a very quaffable soft chestnut brown, malty, dare I say it, mild bitter. I think the Acton brew co are the former Gundog brewery from Washington but I can’t find out much about them. They also had Hadrian and Borders Secret Kingdom which spluttered as soon as the lass pulled it and they were too busy to replace it. Story of my life this, I know it’s busy but why is it so many pubs don’t have someone on, all the time, that knows about and can change a barrel? I suppose it says much about their outlook on beer and whether the pub is beer centric or focussed elsewhere.

BarleyOn our second visit we went to dine, I’d had their signature fish and chips before, and they allow dogs in which is good. The huge fish was awesome but unfortunately the chips were absolutely dire and spoiled it a bit, hopefully just a busy holiday week blip. Almost everywhere we went it seemed that supply exceeded demand, especially around key food demand time; 12.30 – 1330 and 18.30 – 19.30. Flustered front of house staff, either sixth form age girls or mature local women were friendly but not slick enough to deliver. I understand the vagaries of the local economy a bit, but if one place can achieve it why can’t everywhere? It was the same story on the beer front. The St Mary’s was not right on our second visit, they did tell us this and were trying to sort it and weren’t going to sell it until they did, which is good. The fourth wicket was still empty so it was Secret Kingdom or Consett White hot (4%) to wash down the cardboard chips. I went for White hot, very pale, almost with a tinge of orange if you hold it to the light. Three pints of it went down anyway. Fair play, what beers we did have were all on top form and I suspect on any other week it might have been a different tale, with a full choice of four real ales.