Beery Sunday in Sheffield

As a teenager growing up in Penistone, I knew Sheffield city centre intimately, but I’ve lost track lately. Okay we still visit my folks regularly but I haven’t really been into the city centre for a long time, not until my daughter went to Uni there. So one Sunday I decided to go and have a little poke around the local beer scene. There’s probably loads of really cool pubs and bars I should have gone to, but these are the ones I did;

Windows Phone_20150322_14_31_48_ProFirst stop was Brewdog Sheffield , non negotiable, end of story. If there’s a Brewdog bar then I’m in it, wherever it is and I’m trying to visit them all which is a bit hard as they keep opening more and more, almost on a monthly basis. Anyhow, Brewdog bars are going to be another story, suffice to say Sheffield is my least favourite, but it’s still good and I had to have a half of IPA is Dead Citra £3.40/half pint, a one off single hopped 7.5% citrussy, grapefruity, bitter, hop monster.

I’ve always liked Kelham Island brewery beers, every time I hear the name I can’t get the image or taste of a pint of Vincent black lightning out of my mind. I had one once (Horse and Farrier, Otley), and I’ve never seen it anywhere since, it was awesome, sort of like a black lager. So second port of call was a Kelham Island brewery pub, the Tap & Tankard. It’s got to be good hasn’t it?

Surprisingly for two o’clock on a Sunday afternoon there were only five people in and at one point there was only me and the two bar keeps. Beer wise there were four Kelham standards on tap; Best, Easy rider, Pale rider and Bette noir. This was supplemented with a very impressive choice of four guest beers; Great Heck  Amish mash and Yakima IPA, Brunswick’s Grimwalds Damson stout and Brass Castle  Hazelnut mild. It’s always nice to see a mild on, it’s sometimes a forgotten genre.

Windows Phone_20150322_15_30_08_ProThe pub itself? Mmmm. It’s a proper pub and would get the CAMRA seal of approval no doubt. Not having visited Sheffs for a while, it seemed vaguely familiar with it’s circa 1990 decor. All sort of dark wood, silver and purple, almost as if the last twenty five years had passed it by. It’s not tatty enough to be cool and it’s too tidy and from the wrong era to be anything other than naff, for pity’s sake get rid of that carpet. No, the strength here is the beer, well served by happy staff who knew how to pull a proper pint. The Brass castle hazelnut mild had a smooth and creamy head on a rich chestnut brown body. Hints of coffee, vanilla and a long sweet and slightly sour back taste. Great Heck Amish mash was a hazy perfumey, unfined wheat beer with banana notes, a sour finish and a great deal of complexity. Overall, on the beer front, excellent. In terms of the pub itself? In the words of the local lads, the Arctic monkeys, It’s probably only alright.

The next pub didn’t take much choosing. I’m as big a fan of Tapped brew Co as I am of Brewdog so I headed down to the old Midland Station. Sat in the Sheffield tap I remembered going to London for the first time on the train and setting off as a fifteen year old to travel to Bordeaux for the summer, on my own, you’d probably get locked up for that now Mum.

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The pub is spot on, obviously an old refreshment room with it’s massive long bar and period fittings. Only thing was, it wasn’t busy in here neither, and they’ve got ten proper ales on tap, plus a cider and a range of lagers and eight keg craft beer lines, what’s up with you all in Sheffield?

Windows Phone_20150322_16_13_04_ProMore times than not I don’t have to make choices in life, it’s sort of done for me. So, when I saw that they had Dark Star Revelation on there was no other choice, the aroma told me that it was the one that I had come for. Hoppy, really fucking hoppy, 5.7%, amber coloured, malty back taste but hoppy, hoppy, hoppy. Can you tell I liked this one? It was £4.60 a pint but it was worth paying, just for them to bring it up from Brighton for my delectation.

To round off we went to The Graze inn for a spot of tea. Eccleshall Road is worthy of a trip just to sample the many bars and eateries along it’s length. If they are all as good as The Graze inn you will be impressed. We hadn’t booked and there weren’t many tables left at six o’clock. Definitely more of a restaurant than a pub, but you can just walk in and sit in the bar for a drink. It’s obvious this is a Thornbridge brewery place from the beers; Wild Swan, Brother Rabbit, Chiron and Jaipur, plus decent lagers like Brooklyn. The food was really good too, nothing fancy, quite modern, very honest and very good. My starter was Deep fried ribbons of Yorkshire pud batter, pink juicy Ham hock and a  Henderson’s relish based dipping sauce. A wonderful modern take on traditional Yorkshire classics. The main was a bizarre smorgasbord called The Butcher’s sharing board, a bit of everything meaty. It shouldn’t have worked and they would slate it on ‘Master chef’, but it was all good and I really enjoyed it. Thornbridge Chiron American pale ale, on keg, washed everything down quite well. Everything about the place was spot on, spotless, tastefully decorated and I couldn’t really fault anything at all. This isn’t fine dining or the place you go for your wedding anniversary but it’s a cracking place for a reasonably priced family meal in trendy surroundings and we shall definitely be going again. I mean, where else can you get this choice of Thornbridge beers with a decent meal?

The Otley run, Headingley, Hyde Park and Woodhouse, Leeds

Windows Phone_20150328_12_25_51_ProAbout eighteen months ago a few friends encouraged me to arrange a day out. This sort of developed into regular outings every couple of months, the theme being good beer, good food, good company and public transport. I began to take a few notes as we went along which I’m going to write up into a series, in no particular order and starting from the present going backwards. All the opinions are strictly my own and I have no involvement in any way with any of the businesses concerned.

The infamous ‘Otley run’ is something every student who ever came to Leeds must have done at some time. The number of pubs is debatable, Wikipedia says there are eighteen on the full route. It’s clear that’s far too many, for any sensible drinker. So, which pubs do we try? After a little research, I based our selection on an excellent article by Warren Yabsley in Leeds CAMRA’  New full measure #128. I always pick up a free copy every time it comes out, it really is a good read for anyone into the local real ale scene, with some really good ideas for beery days out. Thank you Mr Yabsley for your excellent suggestions that led us to compile our own list. Would we do eight? Debatable, especially after my mid point choice for a leisurely, late, luncheon in Headingley.

One essential factor for our day trips is a WY Metro day ticket. Five pounds fifty gets you anywhere in West Yorkshire, on a bus displaying the Metro logo, for the entire day. These public houses, although spread out along the A660, are served by regular buses, principally the number 1, 6 & 97. We never had to wait longer than five minutes as we bus hopped between pubs.

Okay, where do you start? Ten to eleven saw us stood outside Woodies ale house. Luckily there’s a bus shelter outside which saved us getting soaked. At bang on eleven the doors were opened and the pub was already prepared for the rush. We weren’t the only ones ready for a pint and by half past there were plenty of customers in.

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Woodies was unanimously voted the best of all the pubs we went to. It’s smart and modern, while retaining a traditional feel. There was an excellent range; twelve hand pulls, five keg craft beers, plus the usual suspects. My wife deemed the Latte to be of barista standard and our feminine side were impressed with the lavatories. I fancied an Ilkley Lotus IPA but at 5.6%, it’s a bit strong for a sesh so I opted for Mary Jane. First pint through the lines often disappoints. Not here, it was spot on and they had obviously drawn some off before opening.

I’m not going to make comment on the next pub the Three Horseshoes, sorry the Industrialist, as it had only just reopened after a refurb. There were obviously a few teething problems and it was all fresh paint and newness. Anyone familiar with the old Three Horseshoes wouldn’t recognise it anymore. All said and done, it has been transformed very nicely. Probably a bit modern for the traditionalist, but I think it will be popular and have more of a food base. It was clear the helpful staff and management were trying hard and I’m going to try it in a few weeks and then give my verdict. Old Shipyard American pale ale was my choice here, a keg beer I quite enjoy.

I’m a big Market Town Taverns supporter, good pubs, good products and well run. The Muse in Wetherby is a favourite and frequent haunt. I knew that they did not allow ‘Otley runners’ at Arcadia, they never have done and I support their stance. I don’t want my pint spoiled by groups of Smurfs or Superheros knocking pints back in one while chanting rugger songs. Unfortunately they refused to serve a well dressed, sensible group of eleven, mainly professional people, average age forty seven, including two OAP’s (they’ll kill me for putting that).

Windows Phone_20150328_13_22_36_ProAlthough we arrived early, Charlie Brett’s was ready for us. I’d passed the little cottage, tucked back off North Lane, in Headingley centre many times, heard it was a favourite of many cricketing greats over the years and you couldn’t get a table for love nor money when there was a big match on at Headingley. I set off with really high expectations and they were exceeded. The young lady and gent in front of house were lovely, friendly, engaging and generally couldn’t do enough for you. Although the restaurant is quite small it’s well decorated, clean, bright and airy and there is a wonderful Headingley related, mural on one wall in muted blue and amber. The a la carte and the specials on the chalk wall behind us were fish biased – you’d expect that in a fish restaurant. I never looked at the menu, I knew what I was having before I even booked the table – Fish and chips with mushy peas. I don’t eat them often, too many carbs, but I love fish and chips. I don’t feel able to say that anyone’s fish and chips are the best ever. You’d have to do a blind tasting test to make that acclamation. What I will say, without reserve, these are as good as I have had anywhere and are in my all time top ten of fish and chips. Proper chips, crispy batter, succulent Haddock done in the way that can only be done in a proper fish fryer. What lets most places down is the mushy peas. Brett’s were of the highest order, as good as home made and plenty of them. Everyone was really pleased with their meal and for a main course with drinks and a 10% tip it came to £15 per head – top value. It would have been cheaper but some of our party insisted on a decent bottle of wine with their meal a opposed to one of the decent bottled real ales on offer. Leeds brewery Hellfire is definitely a top accompaniment to traditional fish and chips. Yeah, yeah, I know it’s 5% plus but it was only a 330ml bottle and it really cuts through the grease, in the way a pot of strong tea does.

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To be brutally honest, we didn’t do the Original Oak justice, and I sat in a food coma with a half of Leeds Pale trying my hardest not to fall asleep. If in Headingley, you’ve got to do the Oak. It’s a very traditional, very impressive, very large boozer and on this occasion not too busy. We did time this trip to coincide with the University’s Easter break and finals (sorry students). I liked the pub, but the limited choice of two real ales was disappointing.

The next call was the Hyde Park. This iconic Leeds landmark is a cavernous place inside. There were six real ales on, and if I’m honest, none of them really tickled my fancy so I opted for a half of Hyde park blonde, brewed by Naylors, pleasant with a slightly sweet back taste. Nothing wrong with the pub at all, but what summed it up for me was the six flavour vodka shot dispenser. Okay, at two quid a go, we had to try the crispy bacon flavour one, passing it round like wine tasters. The taste and aroma notes varied from smoky bacon crisps, at best, to dog sh#t (how did he know that?).

Another short bus ride gets you to the Pack Horse. A spartan place, sort of a traditional pub with original fittings, but stripped back to very, very bare rooms. By this time the fish and chips had subsided and I had the best pint of the day in the Pack Horse, Ridgeside Rushmore. I also had a sip of Laguna sec, one of their own brews, it’s part of the Burley street brewhouse pub company, and that was really good too. Worth a visit for the quality of decent beer on offer.

Almost next door is the Eldon. Voted number two best pub today by us. Felt like a proper local’s pub, with local people watching the Rhinos beat Catalans (Leeds … Leeds …Leeds …). Decent range of ales, Brewdog Punk IPA on draft, tempting but it’s too strong for an all dayer, so I went for an Ossett brewery Big Red. We also had the game of pub golf explained to us by a group of lads who had travelled from Hartlepool for the weekend – scary. Folks, please drink responsibly.

Last one was the Fenton. Instantly voted best cider pub by our own expert as they had four different real ciders on hand pull. Surprisingly we could all still annunciate our way around ‘a pint of Pheasant plucker please,’ a Broadoak cider, which is what she had and was very pleased with. My choice here was only shaded into second best pint of the day because it’s more a speciality/novelty beer; Saltaire Raspberry blond. Top form, well pulled, tasty and fruity. The pub itself is very traditional. Okay, a bit worn in places, but the architectural features redeem it. The pedestal clock on top of the island bar is awesome, like the one your Grandma had on the mantelpiece, just twenty times bigger. It was fairly obvious there was a heavy metal, Goth inspired customer base, the young people we chatted with were super, especially the young lady with the handsome Bassett hound pup which upstaged everything with our lady drinkers.

Overall, a really good day out. More of a steady saunter/bus ride than a run for us, and that’s the way it should be. The standout highlight has to be Charlie Brett’s restaurant and I am definitely going back there. Interesting for the diversity of pubs, there really is something for everyone. Best all round pub was Woodies. Shame about Arcadia.

Date of visit Saturday 28th March 2015.