Archives for May 2007

Full confession:  I didn’t grow up eating cherries. Not a one. In fact, I can’t remember ever having a fresh cherry when I was a kid. The only thing I can remember was the woefully unoriginal idea of cherry: cherry soda, canned cherry filling, maraschino cherries, cherry cough drops, cherry candy, cherry air freshener (ick!), etc. That bizarre red unidentifiable flavor that tries to be a cherry but can’t quite reach its goal. I have no doubt you know what I’m talking about.

Fake cherry.

I fault no one, and we all know necessity is the mother of invention. How else were the masses supposed to enjoy the bright happy zing of a cherry throughout the year? There’s only one problem though–cherry flavor is nothing like a real cherry.

There. I said it. I got it off my chest.

Unlike citrus and tropical fruits,  cherries are modest with their flavor. They don’t fill up a room with perfume and they don’t knock you over and give you a puckerface. And therein lies their beauty. Those little crimson globes are delightful as is, sweet and juicy with a fleeting flavor that can truly be appreciated when fresh.

And not in a cough syrup.

Because that artificial cherry thing is imprinted on my brain I am a little gun shy when it comes to cherries. It’s only been the past few years that I have learned to love them and only in their fresh state. I’ll pass on the Cherry Garcia and smile politely if you offer me a chocolate covered cherry (it’s that goo, no thanks!). But I’ll never turn down a fresh cherry.

In my convoluted and twisted ‘lil opinion I believe that cherries lose their magic when cooked (but I will make an exception with a properly prepared clafouti, thankyouverymuch). You get this nice yet not so fantastic flavor when their flesh has been cooked down to mush and that’s why I like cooking them as little as possible. I realize I may be going against popular opinion here, and hey,  I’m cool with that.

My wonderful partner knows I’ll never earn the title "World’s Greatest Cherry-Lovin’ Mexican" and was quite excited to stumble upon a recipe in this month’s Everyday Food. They call it a tart, but it’s not really a tart as much as a semi-trashy dessert with raw cherries on top. Hurray! Raw! And please, it’s not my intention to offend, but you must admit this recipe is very 1970’s Melba-Toast-Eatin’-Mom. Perhaps you’ll want to sit in a bean bag and play some Linda Ronstadt while you enjoy it.

Fresh Cherry Tart from Everyday Food, June 2007

9 graham crackers, each 2 1/2 by 5 inches
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
8 ounces bar cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 pound fresh sweet cherries, such as Bing, pitted and halved
1 tablespoon seedless raspberry jam

1. Preheat oven to 350˚. In a food processor, pulse graham crackers and 2 tablespoons sugar until finely ground. Add butter, and process until combined. Transfer mixture to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Using the base of a dry measuring cup, firmly press mixture into bottom and up sides of pan. Baked until browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat cream cheese, vanilla, and remaining 1/4 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add cream, and beat until soft peaks form; spread mixture in cooled crust. Scatter cherries on top.

3. In a small saucepan, combine jam and 1 teaspoon water; heat over low until liquefied, about 2 minutes. Using a pastry brush, dab cherries with glaze. Refrigerate tart at least 30 minutes or, covered, up to 1 day.

http://mattbites.com/2007/05/20/297/

Full confession:  I didn’t grow up eating cherries. Not a one. In fact, I can’t remember ever having a fresh cherry when I was a kid. The only thing I can remember was the woefully unoriginal idea of cherry: cherry soda, canned cherry filling, maraschino cherries, cherry cough drops, cherry candy, cherry air freshener (ick!), etc. That bizarre red unidentifiable flavor that tries to be a cherry but can’t quite reach its goal. I have no doubt you know what I’m talking about.

Fake cherry.

I fault no one, and we all know necessity is the mother of invention. How else were the masses supposed to enjoy the bright happy zing of a cherry throughout the year? There’s only one problem though–cherry flavor is nothing like a real cherry.

There. I said it. I got it off my chest.

Unlike citrus and tropical fruits,  cherries are modest with their flavor. They don’t fill up a room with perfume and they don’t knock you over and give you a puckerface. And therein lies their beauty. Those little crimson globes are delightful as is, sweet and juicy with a fleeting flavor that can truly be appreciated when fresh.

And not in a cough syrup.

Because that artificial cherry thing is imprinted on my brain I am a little gun shy when it comes to cherries. It’s only been the past few years that I have learned to love them and only in their fresh state. I’ll pass on the Cherry Garcia and smile politely if you offer me a chocolate covered cherry (it’s that goo, no thanks!). But I’ll never turn down a fresh cherry.

In my convoluted and twisted ‘lil opinion I believe that cherries lose their magic when cooked (but I will make an exception with a properly prepared clafouti, thankyouverymuch). You get this nice yet not so fantastic flavor when their flesh has been cooked down to mush and that’s why I like cooking them as little as possible. I realize I may be going against popular opinion here, and hey,  I’m cool with that.

My wonderful partner knows I’ll never earn the title "World’s Greatest Cherry-Lovin’ Mexican" and was quite excited to stumble upon a recipe in this month’s Everyday Food. They call it a tart, but it’s not really a tart as much as a semi-trashy dessert with raw cherries on top. Hurray! Raw! And please, it’s not my intention to offend, but you must admit this recipe is very 1970’s Melba-Toast-Eatin’-Mom. Perhaps you’ll want to sit in a bean bag and play some Linda Ronstadt while you enjoy it.

Fresh Cherry Tart from Everyday Food, June 2007

9 graham crackers, each 2 1/2 by 5 inches
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
8 ounces bar cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 pound fresh sweet cherries, such as Bing, pitted and halved
1 tablespoon seedless raspberry jam

1. Preheat oven to 350˚. In a food processor, pulse graham crackers and 2 tablespoons sugar until finely ground. Add butter, and process until combined. Transfer mixture to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Using the base of a dry measuring cup, firmly press mixture into bottom and up sides of pan. Baked until browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat cream cheese, vanilla, and remaining 1/4 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add cream, and beat until soft peaks form; spread mixture in cooled crust. Scatter cherries on top.

3. In a small saucepan, combine jam and 1 teaspoon water; heat over low until liquefied, about 2 minutes. Using a pastry brush, dab cherries with glaze. Refrigerate tart at least 30 minutes or, covered, up to 1 day.

http://mattbites.com/2007/05/20/165/

There are just some things that instantly take me back to my childhood.
Sopaipillas do that to me every time. Made by my grandmother, the
tender warm pillows of fried dough were sprinkled with cinnamon sugar
and drizzled with honey and always disappeared within minutes. She
would encourage us to eat them immediately while they were still warm,
but it was always said with a wink in her eye – she knew we couldn’t
keep our hands off them until there was an empty plate of grease-laden
cinnamon-scented crumbs.

My grandmother was the best cook I have ever known (next to my mom, of course!). She was in the
kitchen every day and her way with food was astonishing, no matter what
she prepared.  But unlike her rice and beans, sopaipillas were for
special events (as were her bunuelos, too). It was usually Christmas or
New Year’s Eve when she would make dough and fry it in her cast iron
skillet, and I always wondered why we had to wait so long. To a child
eleven months might as well be an eternity.

Traveling the world you’re bound to find various versions of
hot-oil-meets-dough desserts, whether it be beignets, youtiao,
malasadas, loukoumades or gulab jamun.  Unfortunately I adore every
single one of them. But sopaipillas top my list, and not just because
of their familial significance but also because they are among the most
basic of all fried dough desserts. A very simple dough puffs up in the
hot oil in a matter of minutes, and when drizzled with honey it’s pure
nirvana.

My grandmother passed away over 20 years ago, but the love she shared
and the meals she prepared for us will always be in our hearts. And
while I will never claim to be even remotely as talented as she was,  I
find comfort in having a part of her with me whenever I cook.

Sopaipillas

adapted from Taste Of Home

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons shortening
2/3 cup water
oil for frying
cinnamon & sugar
honey

Combine the dry ingredients and then cut in shortening until crumbly.
Gradually add water, tossing with a fork until mixture holds together. On
a lightly floured surface, knead dough for 1-2 minutes or until smooth.
Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Roll out to 1/4-in. thickness. Cut
with a 2-1/2-in. star cookie cutter or into 2-1/2-in. triangles. In an
electric skillet or deep fat fryer, heat oil to 375°. Fry sopaipillas
for 1-2 minutes on each side or until golden brown and puffed. Drain on
paper towels. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar and serve immediately
with honey. Yields 1 dozen.

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