PJTierney

Season liveries are part of season bundles only I'm afraid, sorry. 😞

I miss his YouTube channel. He wasn't well-liked (as he went against the grain of certain fandoms) but I always appreciated his point of view.

Given that there are now two DIRT studios and one is going very much in the opposite direction, I think there's a bright future ahead when it comes to Rally 🙂

Just set an Xbox world record with that thing so you can take your gate and keep it 😉 https://www.twitch.tv/videos/834006247

I wasn't around much in the DR1 days, but from what I gather the more active staff people on the forums are mainly ones that no longer work at Codemasters. I'll see if I can change that in the future, but understandably anybody that's a "developer" is busy making games at the moment so you'll have to put up with me 🙂

If you can find the Line Break button on your keyboard we have a thread for "future game suggestions" here 🙂

Great looking game that 🙂 Heads up rally fans: I'm on Christmas break from now until early January. I may occasionally pop in to see how things are going but don't expect to see me around much 🙂

Presumably some of the tech made its way into the Polyphony engine for Gran Turismo Sport. I know the first-party studios tend to share bits of tech around, like how an early prototype of Sea of Thieves' water physics was used to create the oceans in Forza Horizon 3.

Year One Pass gives you all of this; it essentially turns your game into Game of the Year Edition:

Differential: 100% = Locked (easier to oversteer) 50% = (half) Open Front Brake Bias: 70% = Mostly towards the front (better for slowing the car down) 50% = more towards the back (better for steering while braking) Quick tip for pad players, go into your controller settings and then to MFD Shortcuts. Set up the Right Stick to flick Differential/Brakes up and down 🙂

Not mine (it's HenrikM) but get about 1 minute in 😉

This is a good answer. A more locked differential provides better straightline performance as the rear wheels focus more on propelling the car forward. (more obvious when on-throttle than off-throttle) As for tyre wear, the main contributor to tyre wear is how much the tyres slide in relation to their direction of travel. In more simple terms, spinning the wheels too much, leaning too hard on them in corners, turning the steering wheel too hard or locking up the brakes all increase tyre wear. Lower differential settings help reduce the potential for wheelspin on-throttle, which is why some people like to bring that setting down. The main benefit of lower diff though is that when you get on the throttle you won't spin the car as much, which I presume is the primary goal.

70% is good which is why it's the default. It does take a bit of learning though, which is why lower is recommended to begin with. The downside of lower differential setting is that while you improve performance in terms of reducing car rotation, you lose out on straightline acceleration as the rear wheels aren't focusing on pushing the car forward as much. As for lockups, that's a braking thing. You should never be locking up the wheels on acceleration. For the avoidance of doubt, the Differential setting is for Acceleration, not slowing down. There is an Off-Throttle Differential setting in the tuning menu, but that mainly controls how much over/understeer the car will have when... off-throttle. Official tutorial here: And here's my take on the topic if you want something with an Irish accent: