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M&S IPA: Marstons v St Austell v Adnams
Working reasonably long hours, I often find it difficult to get to the shops on a weekday, and as a result end up spending slightly over the odds in the Marks & Spencer Simply Food in Leeds station. Whilst M&S is typically quite expensive, it does have a reliable range of beers commissioned from decent breweries, including Cropton’s M&S Yorkshire Bitter and a Meantime M&S London Porter.
When I noticed that they had three different IPAs from three different breweries, I thought it was worth comparing them:
Marstons M&S Staffordshire IPA (5.5%)
This beer is sold as a hoppy traditional Burton IPA. It has very little nose with perhaps a slight biscuity smell. It has a refreshing flavour with a slightly acidic, broadly fruity hoppiness coming through into the aftertaste. It’s quite a light-tasting beer for 5.5%, but has a nice mouthfeel.
Initially not a particularly interesting beer, it grew on me as I got towards the bottom of the glass and the bitterness started to build up. Probably good for a session, if you can cope with a few at this strength.
St Austell M&S Cornish IPA (5%)
A slightly weaker beer, this immediately smells much more interesting, with a fresh, piney, grapefruity smell that carries through into a wonderful wash of bitterness. Unlike the Staffordshire IPA this beer is bottle conditioned, resulting in smaller, more delicate bubbles that perfectly compliment the balanced but powerful American hop taste.
St Austell’s Proper Job – a lovely, unusually oily IPA made with Williamette, Cascade and Chinook hops – became one of my favourite cask beers when I was on holiday in Cormwall last summer. Without a bottle of Proper Job to compare the Cornish IPA to, this nonetheless seems like a very similar recipe, although it is 0.5% stronger*. A very nice beer indeed and one that I often pick up when I buy my dinner in Marks.
Adnam’s M&S Southwold Winter IPA (6.7%)
I was pleasantly surprised to see such a strong IPA in M&S, and suspect that a number of well-to-do wives may inadvertently find their husbands in a slightly more louche mood at the end of the evening. This beer has a slightly boozy smell, a viscous mouthfeel and wheaty maltiness that leaves you at risk of missing the hops, which are apparently Boadicea, Columbus and Styrgian Goldings. An interesting beer, but not quite as enjoyable as the St Austell one.
These are all good beers and it’s a credit to M&S that they bring these beers to the middle class, but you do have to consider the price. £2.19, £2.39 and £2.39 respectively is a fair amount to pay for a 500ml bottles to take away. Nonetheless I remain happy to part with my cash for the Cornish IPA in particular, which is the most expensive and the weakest at the same time.
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* This is the cask strength Proper Job. Dean from Mr Foley’s has pointed out that the bottled one has a higher ABV.
Hit The North: National Winter Ales Festival 2011
Yesterday I had the good fortune of going to the National Winter Ales festival in Manchester. I was especially lucky to get trade tickets and also to go with a few brewers and bar folk. After getting the train over from Leeds I met up with James and Andy from Summer Wine Brewery and Dean from Mr Foleys in the Marble Arch on the Rochdale Road. A great pub connected to a wonderful brewery, yesterday the beers included the spectacularly hoppy Utility Special IPA and the great Driscoll’s End, Dominic’s goodbye beer to the Marble brewery, before he heads across the Pennines to sunny Thornbridge.
It was good to meet members of the beer literati who we hadn’t met before, including Rob from Hopzine, Matt from Hawkshead (who had been judging) and Brian from The Grove, Huddersfield (along with a whole posse of Grovers). Even as a newcomer, it was a really nice, friendly, festive atmosphere, before we even got to the venue. Unable to resist, I bought myself two big Marble bottles before we left: a Utility Special and a Stouter Port Stout.
At the venue, which is a perfect size for the purposes, we were also introduced to more titans of the beer world from darkest Cumbria, the legendary Jeff Pickthall and the semi-mythical Hardknott Dave. Jeff was kind enough to give me a bottle of Croglin Vampire to review. We also bumped into Matt, Jim and some of the other staff from North Bar, as well as Matt’s wife Alice, now immortalised as the namesake of Brewdog’s Alice Porter, brewed with Matt’s input. We were even able to witness the elusive Tandleman working diligently at the festival, apparently unconcerned by the lack of Northern Methods Of Dispense despite the Mancunian setting.
Of course the beers were good too. Although the general view is that most of them were a bit on the fresh side, it being the first day and all, everyone who tried it seemed to be very impressed with James and Andy’s Diablo, a great IPA with dominant Citra flavours (although it also contains Centennial). Thornbridge’s Hark was a very nice beer, and was a little more interesting than Merrie, which was by contrast merely good. It was good to enjoy Hawkshead Brodie’s Prime on cask and Thornbridge St Petersburg was also very good. I liked the Fuller’s Brewer’s Reserve too. I enjoyed festival champion Entire Stout by Hop Back, although it wasn’t necessarily the most interesting beer I tried. I’m sure the other beers I tried will come back to me over the next few days.
Of course after all that it was very clearly time to get a taxi back to Piccadilly for the long, challenging train home to Leeds and the struggle to recover adequately for work the next morning. Nevertheless the day was very enjoyable and well worth the hangover. Thanks to Tandleman and the rest of the organisers, but as I say, I was especially happy to meet so many friendly members of the international brotherhood of beer, who were far more welcoming to a mere prole than they had any reason to be. I’m looking forward to Twissup, by which time I should almost have recovered. Cheers!
There’s two days of NWAF left, so get along to the Sheridan Suite on the Oldham Road if you have the remotest opportunity. Check out the rest of the winners here.
Strangford Lough Brewing Company: A Quare Bunch Of Lads (and Girls)
I’m off to the National Winter Ales Festival this morning, so just a quick note to say thanks to Grace from Strangford Lough Brewing Company for sending me through these three beers for review.
After Christmas I grumbled in a fairly mean-spirited way about a bottle of their St Patrick’s Best which I’d bought out of date and I thought tasted a bit dodgy. Although this was entirely my fault and that of the shop, Grace got in touch to offer to send me a few more beers for review.
I’m looking forward to trying these but in the meantime I just thought a thank-you was in order. It’s nice to see they’re keeping an eye on what people online think of their beer and they’d be both generous and confident enough in the standard of their beers to give me another shot.
Bottled Roosters: GCB, XS, 2XS & Oxymoronic Black IPA
Of the number of local craft breweries that regularly sell their beers in Leeds pubs, one of the most consistent is Roosters. They have a particular bent towards pale, nicely hoppy ales in the vein of (what I suppose is) their flagship beer, Yankee, which is getting on for 17 years old.
The cockerel logo on their pumpclips is, for me, a badge of quality. Although they appear to have been brewing some more experimental beers recently, I don’t think I’ve ever had a pint of any of their range that I didn’t like. I especially enjoy being able to enjoy their beers outside with friends at the Chapel Allerton Arts Festival every year.
Roosters GCB (3.7%)
However, Roosters beers don’t seem to have been sold in bottles until last year, when I picked up a bottle of their GCB (“Good Cheer Beer”). This beer is described as a “pale Yorkshire bitter – a happy marriage of upbeat fruitiness and moderate bitterness“. It had a slightly biscuity smell, quite a lot of carbonation, a relatively thin mouthfeel and a light lemony bitterness in the aftertaste. Like the cask version, I think it’s at the safer end of their pale ale spectrum and is probably good crossover beer which can be given to lager drinkers with relative impunity.
However, it was very exciting indeed to be able to pick up one 75cl bottle of each of three experimental beers Sam Franklin (son of founder Sean) made at the end of last year. There were only 30 bottles of each sold. Given that they have been reviewed by Zak, Leigh and Rob, it would appear that over 10% of the beers went to beer bloggers! Whilst I encourage you to read/watch their more expert reviews, this is what I thought of them:
Roosters XS American Pale Ale (5.5%)
The label describes this beer as an American-style IPA/pale ale with 60IBUs and, “hopped at an excessive rate, using Chinook, Citra, Crystal and Simcoe from the US and New Zealand’s Riwaka hops, all as late kettle additions.”
After a satisfying pop when the cap came off, the beer poured a pleasant orange colour with a slight cloudiness. It gave off a fantastic mango smell and had a rich, slightly oily mouthfeel. The punchy dry fruity bitterness in the aftertaste made my mouth water. This was a very lovely beer which I enjoyed with a curry from Mumtaz, which it suited perfectly.
Roosters 2XS India Pale Ale (7.1%)
“The big bad brother of XS – excessive in every way imaginable. Hopped using Nelson Sauvin, Cascade, Chinook, Citra, Crystal and Simcoe. It weighs in with a whopping 100+ IBUs and certainly isn’t a beer for the faint-hearted! Continuously hopped during the brewing process to create a smooth but powerful bitterness. We then dry-hopped the beer in the fermenter and conditioning tanks to give it a strong and aggressive hop aroma.”
Again pouring a slightly cloudy orange but perhaps a little darker, this gave off a rich piney mangoey aroma. The mouthfeel was thicker and the fruity, bitter taste deeper and more rounded but slightly less punchy and fruity as a result. Again this was a great beer, which went nicely with Cajun Chicken.
Roosters Oxymoronic Black IPA (6.5%)
“American-style India Black Ale – big, black and bitter, this American-style Black IPA is a shock to the senses. Your eyes say stout but your tastebuds scream IPA! A jet black appearance, with little roast flavour, is backed up with a serious bitter finish. Packed full of citrus hop aroma, brewed and dry-hopped with 100% Simcoe hops. The citrus content of this beer might even count as one of your five a day!”
It’s difficult to expand on the fairly comprehensive and unusually informative label text, but this black IPA had a very tart but not completely juicy passionfruit taste, resulting in a slightly champagney dryness. The dryness results in a shorter finish, as if the fruit becomes totally absorbed into the (very slight) roastedness.
The black IPAs I’ve had on cask (and all enjoyed) include Summer Wine’s Heretic; Thornbridge’s Raven and Saltaire’s Cascadian Black. In Peculier Pub on Bleecker Street I also got to try 21st Amendment’s Back in Black on keg. However this is the first time I’ve tried a bottled black IPA, and it worked very well.
All three of these beers were excellent, and the XS in particular is a beer I would be happy to buy on a monthly basis for the rest of my life if it was an option. There’s always a bit of a thrill in having something that’s so rare, but fortunately the hoppy nature of these beers meant it would ruin them to try and keep them for ages, which is always a risk with me.
Although I understand that Sam Franklin has flown away over the pond to Canada, I would welcome it if Roosters decided to reprise all three of these beers. I’m only sad that the good proles of Leeds might not be amongst the first to try Sam’s next brew. Blame Canada!














